Mt Olympus

Mt Olympus 7969'

Blue Glacier to Crystal Pass

Some weirdo on the Blue Glacier

Chemeketan Rating M1/M2 based primarily on the number of days out.

Here's the Summit Post Route Description

Mt Olympus Weather

The date for this trip has not been set. The most likely date will be July 25-29 so we can accompany Wild Bill Saur's team on the first half of their journey.

Overview When Steve Dougherty took me on this trip in 2006, I had no idea that I was about to embark on one of the nicest climbs I'd ever do. I've done more challenging climbs and climbs that were "fun" in that weird painful sort of way but I don't think I've enjoyed a trip more.

Though Olympus isn't an especially tall mountain, it is heavily glaciated. It is so close to the coast that it receives a ton of precipitation. We'll enter through the Hoh Rain Forest.

Description On Day 1, we'll begin hiking the incredibly scenic Hoh River Trail (600'). After about nine miles of easy hiking, we'll set up camp at the Olympic Guard Ranger Station (950'). The morning of day 2, we'll move camp another 9 miles up to Glacier Meadows (4200'). On day 2, we'll gain most of the elevation in the last 2 miles. There's a really cool footbridge that crosses a deep ravine (The High Hoh Bridge). We'll want to rest here and take in the awesome view. We might even take a swim in Elk Lake (2500').

Here we see the Hobbit, Mike Neimeyer, strolling through the Shire

A Billygoat guards the way

On the 3rd day (summit day), we'll wake up early (2-300am) and begin our climb. We'll ascend the moraine, cross the Blue Glacier and head up the Snow Dome (6800'). From here, we'll contour across the upper glacier above the icefall and head through 5 Fingers. We'll try to skirt around a scree mound and head for Crystal Pass. We'll be at the summit block.

Looking down 5 fingers

We'll likely set a fixed line or two on the way to the summit. We'll enjoy the views and some rest and wonder how it can get any better. We'll descend the climbing route and by the time we get to camp, our feet will be wondering how it can get any worse; then we'll show them.

Josef and I enjoy a break

below the icefall

We'll have 18 miles to get back to the car and there are several ways to do it. We can knock them all out on day 4. We can do half on day 4 and half on day 5. (This will leave us in that weird situation where you arrive at camp at noon and have a whole day to fart around)

The other alternative is a bit strange but I think it could work. If we make it back to camp on our summit day around 2 pm, we can sleep for an hour pack up and head down to the Olympic Guard Station and likely be there by 7 pm. Then, everybody can curse me and get some of the best sleep of their lives. On day 4, we can finish our last 8-9 miles and find some coffee. This will put us back a day early.

I have to laugh at myself a bit as I type this "Plan." As if we have that much control. We could get rained out on summit day and have to hunker down. Then we'll be forced to march out in one less day. Or, Amy might beat me senseless at the mere mention of hiking half way out on summit day. We'll have to take it like it comes.

Gear It'll be crucial to pack smart on this climb. One extra pound will really add up. It just might be time to spring for that new 1.5 lb sleeping bag. You'll also want to make sure that your boots fit just so. (I saw people walk out w/ Duct tape socks on my other trip)We'll have a pre-climb meeting to get organized.

Climbing Gear Harness, helmet, boots (lightweight mountaineering or back packing boots that will hold a crampon), crampons, gaitors, ice axe, 3 non-lockers, 2 lockers, short medium and long prussiks, belay device, one extra sling and trekking poles.

Nutrition Food for 5 days, snacks and a no-cook breakfast for summit day. Capacity to carry 3 liters of water minimum.

Clothing Gloves, hat, rain gear, very light sleeping clothes, one change of clothes besides what you hike in with, an additional set of underwear, medium weight jacket or fleece.

Camping Light tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, 1 emergency blanket for every 2 people, garbage bag, shared stoves, fuel and water filters. One medium weight stuff sack for hanging food.

Other essentials Headlamp w/ new batteries, sun protection, chapstick, sunglasses, bandana, first aid and medications, small camp towel for river baths.

Team Gear 2 skinny ropes, 3 pickets, 1 ice screw, wands, GPS, SPOT locating device, 4 radios and rock pro.

Getting there Head N to Olympia and follow Highway 101 North.(Pacific Coast Highway) and follow this to the Hoh River Entrance to Olympic National Park south of the town of Forks. Park at the Visitor's Center.

Red Tape Bring cash for the camping permit, its 5 buck for the group and 2 bucks per person, per night.

Chemektan Climb Regulations

The climber agrees to pay for their own medical and or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.

Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed release from liability and assumptiopn of risk, available at the meeting location.

The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb if the leader believes that the person is not adequately prepared for the climb.