tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-71029527878404711962024-03-05T22:25:56.102-08:00Jess's Climbing Blog and Trip ReportsThis is a place where friends, family and fellow Chemeketans can see what adventures I'm getting myself into.
photo: Benjamin WadnizakJess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.comBlogger30125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-81421140554679107462011-01-04T17:49:00.000-08:002010-08-21T09:15:53.061-07:00Climbing Links<span style="font-size:180%;color:#990000;">2010 trip reports</span><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/04/hood-april-16.html"><span style="color:#666600;">Mt Hood April 2010</span> </a><br /><br /><br /><br /><p><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/06/mt-shasta-w-face-gully-2010.html"><span style="color:#666600;">Mt Shasta W Face Gully</span></a></p><p><span style="font-size:180%;color:#990000;"></span></p><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/07/n-and-m-sister-2010.html"><span style="color:#666600;">N and M Sister Traverse 2010</span> </a><br /><br /><span style="color:#666600;"><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/08/jefferson-whitewater-glacier.html">Mt Jefferson Whitewater Glacier</a></span><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/08/jefferson-whitewater-glacier.html"></a><br /><span style="font-size:180%;color:#990000;"></span><br /><span style="font-size:180%;color:#990000;">2009 climbs</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;">Click the pictures in the links to get bigger pic.</span><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Rabbit%20Ears"><span style="color:#660000;">S. Oregon Day One - Rabbit Ears<br /></span></a><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Peregrine%20Traverse"><span style="color:#660000;">S. Oregon Day Two - Peregrine Traverse</span></a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/18%20peaks"><span style="color:#ff0000;">18 Peaks Worth of Friends</span></a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/12/devils-kitchen-headwall-mt-hood.html"><span style="color:#ff0000;">Devils Kitchen Headwall - Mt Hood</span></a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Enchantments%202009">Enchantments: Volume One (Prussik Peak)</a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Dragontail%20Serpentine%20Arete">Enchantments: Volume Two (Dragontail, Serpentine Arete)</a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Monkey%20Face%202009"><span style="color:#666666;">Monkey Face 2009</span></a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Mt%20Olympus%202009"><span style="color:#666666;">Mt Olympus 2009</span></a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Forbidden%20Peak%20E-W%20Traverse"><span style="color:#cc0000;">Forbidden Peak E Ridge Direct & W Ridge Traverse</span></a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/summer%20rock%20trips%202009"><span style="color:#333300;"><span style="color:#cc0000;">Smith/Lovers Leap/Ozone</span><br /></span><span style="color:#663300;"></span></a><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Mt%20Shuksan%20-%20Sulphide%20Glacier"><span style="color:#663300;">Mt Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier</span> </a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Castle%20Rock"><span style="color:#663300;">Washington Road Trip May 23, 2009</span></a><span style="color:#663300;"><br /></span><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/search/label/Mt%20Hubris%20-%20Cosmic%20Wall"><span style="color:#663300;">Mt Hubris - Cosmic Wall May 16, 2009</span></a><span style="color:#663300;"><br /></span><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/02/mt-hood-jan-09-hogsback.html"><span style="color:#999900;">Mt Hood- Hogsback trip</span></a><span style="color:#999900;"> Feb 01, 2009</span><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/02/west-crater-rim-mt-hood-july-09.html"><span style="color:#999900;">Mt Hood - W Crater Rim Jan 09</span></a><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/01/smith-rock-jan-10-11-2009.html"><span style="color:#999900;">Smith Rock Jan 09</span></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:180%;color:#990000;">My Upcoming Climbs</span><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/01/mt-shasta-hotlum-wintun-ridge.html"><span style="color:#990000;"> </span></a><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">Email me to sign up. My address is in the chemeketan roster</span><br /><br /><span style="font-size:78%;color:#cc0000;"><br /></span><span style="color:#666600;">Assistant skills<a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/01/rock-pro-and-anchors-april-17-2009.html"><span style="color:#666600;"> Anchors and Rock Pro April 9-11</span> </a></span><br /><span style="font-size:78%;color:#cc0000;">Team full </span><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><p><span style="font-size:100%;color:#666600;"><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/06/mt-jefferson-w-rib-or-whitewater.html">Mt Jefferson W Rib or Whitewater Glacier</a></span></p><p><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Team full</span><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/06/mt-jefferson-w-rib-or-whitewater.html"></a></p><p><span style="font-size:78%;color:#cc0000;"></span></p><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/07/n-and-m-sister-combo.html">N and M Sister Combo</a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Team full</span><br /><br /><a href="http://jessclimbing.blogspot.com/2010/08/mt-jefferson-whitewater-glacier.html">Mt Jefferson Whitewater Glacier</a><br /><br />WEATHER, SNOW & ROADS<br /><a href="http://www.nwac.us/mobile/index.htm">NW Avalanche Center (enabled for mobile phones)</a><br /><a href="http://www.nwac.us/products/SABNW">NW Avalanche Center (seasonal)</a><br /><a href="http://www.earthcam.com/clients/timberline/enlarge_image.php?type=live&path=http://images.earthcam.com/ec_metros/ourcams/timberline.jpg&name=Timberline%20Lodge&width=640&height=480&img_width=320&img_height=240">Timberline Lodge Web Cam</a><br /><a href="http://167.131.0.179/Pages/CCview.asp?Num=1&cam1=624">Government Camp Web Cam</a><br /><a href="http://167.131.0.179/popups/Cam.asp?camera=605&curRegion=4">Santiam Pass Web Cam</a><br /><br /><br />CLIMBING CLUBS & ROUTE INFORMATION<br /><a href="http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/">Cascadeclimbers.com</a><br /><a href="http://www.chemeketans.info/climbing.htm">Chemeketans (Salem) Climb Calendar</a><br /><a href="http://cascadeadventures.net/">Cascade Adventures (Steve Doughtery)</a><br /><a href="http://www.mazamas.org/">Mazamas (Portland)</a><br /><a href="http://www.santiamalpineclub.org/">Santiam Alpine</a><br /><a href="http://www.summitpost.org/">Summit Post</a>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-60879775993476462422010-08-15T20:28:00.000-07:002010-08-21T09:10:57.244-07:00Jefferson-Whitewater GlacierMore pics, less words. I'll try<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUandmGYMTlxhIcc_Xl8yj0Qt3qE5fcitImaKfgMkyiF0nZOz26pyx1GEoicAxiALy6IqbGwSvCo9ypuqe9zE2RHuc7K80DENgentiab8uXeACVkWr3o7hxPY5Rl8yUdSplE258_EgDSag/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+063.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506427723991352450" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUandmGYMTlxhIcc_Xl8yj0Qt3qE5fcitImaKfgMkyiF0nZOz26pyx1GEoicAxiALy6IqbGwSvCo9ypuqe9zE2RHuc7K80DENgentiab8uXeACVkWr3o7hxPY5Rl8yUdSplE258_EgDSag/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+063.JPG" border="0" /></a>On Friday the 13th, Dan Sewell, Chuck Bennet, Matt Lund, Vita Picchi, Amy and Myself headed out to climb Mt Jefferson. The Salem forecast was in the high 90's, Mt Jefferson, low 70's. We were actually a bit cold at camp! Mt Jefferson, in my opinion, is the most beautiful and interesting of the Oregon peaks. The Whitewater Glacier route also gives you tour around 3 sides of the mountain, the fourth side is viewed on the approach hike from the alpine meadow of Jefferson Park. The approach hike was mosquito infested but generally quite pleasant.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaPQHVwN3Ze0UV7cCEuOteMOeazBr1ZHvdOYWVjk-rAxT0PimcXCMRDku9LOxmsSNskTZq33TTxsooGHtc2s6OtopvnNdXHpR9gdDsAQJT-hIrfhXMLTu8eSO78KSHBz0gIPqedNMuqySr/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+066.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506427713889534290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaPQHVwN3Ze0UV7cCEuOteMOeazBr1ZHvdOYWVjk-rAxT0PimcXCMRDku9LOxmsSNskTZq33TTxsooGHtc2s6OtopvnNdXHpR9gdDsAQJT-hIrfhXMLTu8eSO78KSHBz0gIPqedNMuqySr/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+066.JPG" border="0" /></a> We reached Jefferson park in the late afternoon. Now we just had to find our way up onto the upperflanks of the mountain. There's a hidden creek up on what appears to be a desolate morain. We found this waterfall nestled. What an awesome treasure.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkm9NlZ5BRjEXdoxBi0zD8GAZVMtKLePSRJm3G1QHKCb_Qfg0ATVaSTQR6-PbmgmJcvpRkXMkD_LAZKzoOr18cH0-jHu6T9li2Y0gTZqjn27_3jA2u0MD4oyILNDA-THf_rWAJkjFkLzsV/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+071.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506427707495437810" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkm9NlZ5BRjEXdoxBi0zD8GAZVMtKLePSRJm3G1QHKCb_Qfg0ATVaSTQR6-PbmgmJcvpRkXMkD_LAZKzoOr18cH0-jHu6T9li2Y0gTZqjn27_3jA2u0MD4oyILNDA-THf_rWAJkjFkLzsV/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+071.JPG" border="0" /></a> I've climbed lots w/ Dan and some w/ Chuck. Matt is practically my little brother and Amy's is my wife (or more acurately, I'm her husband). I was yet to meet Vita. For those of you who don't know Vita, she's Joanna Picchi's daughter. I've gotten to know Joanna very well over the last five years and had only heard Vita's name. As much as we all love Joanna, Vita was gonna have to be pretty awesome to compare to her mom. Hmmm, we'll have to wait and see.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6vClrUChqhY3lcIfAhiZN3p-UZ_pDZJrtJokOAY7ZcTI-GOdDaUSNqqGDBSwCp4NVJ7WT8Q0y68gv4V47IgWpNZCoibMj8lb2AcT8LS0z6o_32OAVCLngJ_ixGVLZ1Kt5VPEyQ9yU2uA/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+076.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506427698945680034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw6vClrUChqhY3lcIfAhiZN3p-UZ_pDZJrtJokOAY7ZcTI-GOdDaUSNqqGDBSwCp4NVJ7WT8Q0y68gv4V47IgWpNZCoibMj8lb2AcT8LS0z6o_32OAVCLngJ_ixGVLZ1Kt5VPEyQ9yU2uA/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+076.JPG" border="0" /></a> We finally topped out on the morain and the views were incredible. What a great place to be!<br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGwDY2Q0V3hD9A3eSoBxkGeYchulqyacvnByswYQ2tE1VVWrRtafAvzdsYOsyUgSPxkA42gVlAFrgTD5ChOf-BD9_qGFVK2BgBTkK4BIn08nKoleEPb2M_UX1SqF82gTIDWq5O9A1qgaC6/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+077.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506427295582034594" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGwDY2Q0V3hD9A3eSoBxkGeYchulqyacvnByswYQ2tE1VVWrRtafAvzdsYOsyUgSPxkA42gVlAFrgTD5ChOf-BD9_qGFVK2BgBTkK4BIn08nKoleEPb2M_UX1SqF82gTIDWq5O9A1qgaC6/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+077.JPG" border="0" /></a> To much fanfare, we all know that mountain goats were reintroduced to Mt Jefferson. Here was some evidence! Would we get to see the real thing?<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTmM79DO4A8AtKQ1Tpwo8vXZBKfuHRiZUkAVNMdfu0Zs1m7_-7THAcMMWsp1SJ4bVlaN_s9qm5dVNAW9cGZ4nrnf1uNkbKrsx52MgW5CiODsLqiXAZLdjMNZZn_na8jbdd-_g_PiBG8gyn/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+080.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506427285812136930" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTmM79DO4A8AtKQ1Tpwo8vXZBKfuHRiZUkAVNMdfu0Zs1m7_-7THAcMMWsp1SJ4bVlaN_s9qm5dVNAW9cGZ4nrnf1uNkbKrsx52MgW5CiODsLqiXAZLdjMNZZn_na8jbdd-_g_PiBG8gyn/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+080.JPG" border="0" /></a> We set up camp in the cradle of a Moraine. We had dry ground, running water, it was perfect, except the wind. As we all know some wind is enough to wreck camp. We were able to find some boulders and hang out and cook dinner in the lee of the boulders and things were looking good.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM7EMMA0saP9TnHCTP1Xo4uNsvQ7KZb-34vvwIuPvLgPTaijeyq8Pwac5GqPDLWs8BJ0lky1wXCddN1XwMg2NNFALhlj9LApy-drr_IEZHKwc0GGJRDTTSVtvzehROTk7NF-m9AYvgqtc_/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+081.JPG"></a></div><br /><div>We decided to start out at 3:45 am. The day was going to be warm and we wanted to make sure we had plenty of time to reverse the traverse before the snow was rotted by the sun.<br /></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuBce_eMbWav2WTLEEnwxFVXMxmAN7xE-QUidLb870hyM7V2-jG8Kc8cEKSTJ_vhhua_OoVVZnvEdANCrypqNTwDfCcdi15fSrJazQ7nXoWKCo0RYuCmruTPO1fq3mdY9Q_C8cEjKgsGAC/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+090.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506427270742835218" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuBce_eMbWav2WTLEEnwxFVXMxmAN7xE-QUidLb870hyM7V2-jG8Kc8cEKSTJ_vhhua_OoVVZnvEdANCrypqNTwDfCcdi15fSrJazQ7nXoWKCo0RYuCmruTPO1fq3mdY9Q_C8cEjKgsGAC/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+090.JPG" border="0" /></a> The Glacier was in excellent condition, there were some massive gapers like this one that we were able to peer into. For Dan, Chuck and Vita, this was their first experience seeing crevasses up close and personal. That's one of the joy's of being a climb leader; helping people see things they may not see on their own.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYMBBYuzvGJ1mYwb5E8juXoInaokL3NkamdS32E6v9x3gHkXbq1WXuQ4mAVQ6oQ8vOOrdddZ6ZmGa-NKE2IAMca0LFLwzqEDi1KW4ytUHW5g-BMnNDQKiApsLP_1XogsXVuOHQYP_OJIH/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+091.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426481411851458" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRYMBBYuzvGJ1mYwb5E8juXoInaokL3NkamdS32E6v9x3gHkXbq1WXuQ4mAVQ6oQ8vOOrdddZ6ZmGa-NKE2IAMca0LFLwzqEDi1KW4ytUHW5g-BMnNDQKiApsLP_1XogsXVuOHQYP_OJIH/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+091.JPG" border="0" /></a> We had awesome views of to the South. This is a rather unique perspective of Three fingered Jack. You only get this view from the S side of Jefferson.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgah5cmsI7LJgEVR5JgLVhKHNw5qWk39qCh1IZlQV7Khs_YEM24XV5Y7RtLVig87OrvVKzUTwKhZC0RLxUnuLXI6DNpbWMVLYjTQHpeJZ3h6zG-NqvZf0IGVxeoHcmOu5YXErzbug3wc7m9/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+093.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426477007151842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgah5cmsI7LJgEVR5JgLVhKHNw5qWk39qCh1IZlQV7Khs_YEM24XV5Y7RtLVig87OrvVKzUTwKhZC0RLxUnuLXI6DNpbWMVLYjTQHpeJZ3h6zG-NqvZf0IGVxeoHcmOu5YXErzbug3wc7m9/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+093.JPG" border="0" /></a> So we gained the SE Ridge and scrambled up to the Red Saddle. The traverse was steep and full of snow. Perfect. We only had one rope and it wasn't long enough to cover the whole traverse so we'd have to do a running team belay. I gave a quick speech on nobody climbing outside of their comfort, if they were nervous speak up. Nothing brave about falling and scaring the crap out of the whole team. This is life and death and we are tied to the same rope and we are friends. I was able to knock in a few super secure pickets and place two less than great stoppers. We ended up using five pickets and three stoppers. I put Vita on the rope behind me because I hadn't climbed w/ her and wanted to make sure she was OK. I thought she'd be nervous. In one of the most difficult sections I looked back at her to check her progress. She had this huge smile and she shouted "What a beautiful day we have here!" Joanna's daughter indeed.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSxstuAf8_HUPZhElyKrld5DczpIqs5iJVhGxvyq0c-qIf5HDC4LjzVar0X5H62grz7MMJNxNOL9GD1MP38JnO_vHqRdtMzRqaMfWVk_IN7aXYFRXbEhLBzliaawBiHZ1Bi5ya5OjiTpp/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+095.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426464797057490" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYSxstuAf8_HUPZhElyKrld5DczpIqs5iJVhGxvyq0c-qIf5HDC4LjzVar0X5H62grz7MMJNxNOL9GD1MP38JnO_vHqRdtMzRqaMfWVk_IN7aXYFRXbEhLBzliaawBiHZ1Bi5ya5OjiTpp/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+095.JPG" border="0" /></a>While she was grinning this is the view down the slope of the runout, not pretty, not survivable. All in all, we were all game for the traverse and we learned that alluminum crampons don't cut it on rock hard snow/ice. We learned the easy way.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8ly7ntOOV7wiydp27lznbqwchyxy1TQht6LHZjkle18LDpKxYHry4Y5sl5327-tuciW82PNcZxRF7giQArVi8SH-pMnslLcs9O4_Fsm9fVxf5le0iPsIlC0ld6_JB9O-6RErgs8gpDIF/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+096.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426462813359202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy8ly7ntOOV7wiydp27lznbqwchyxy1TQht6LHZjkle18LDpKxYHry4Y5sl5327-tuciW82PNcZxRF7giQArVi8SH-pMnslLcs9O4_Fsm9fVxf5le0iPsIlC0ld6_JB9O-6RErgs8gpDIF/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+096.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here's Vita crossing one of the runnels. Can you see the fear? Neither can I.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFcbmwkH9BlEQMoRb0K6mjDVzMLMeJZKcURSFccTn3q7pOhF8UpCNCCW92yWNekHT-E9XghBxqZ6kOpoiJOdOlAaM_XjXNM_zN-TWLe3AkdMgIqQQ3YgoLFP7OVFnQu5u6_j6_AihYkcr/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+097.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426454246472754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFcbmwkH9BlEQMoRb0K6mjDVzMLMeJZKcURSFccTn3q7pOhF8UpCNCCW92yWNekHT-E9XghBxqZ6kOpoiJOdOlAaM_XjXNM_zN-TWLe3AkdMgIqQQ3YgoLFP7OVFnQu5u6_j6_AihYkcr/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+097.JPG" border="0" /></a>Dan's family is out of town so Dan wasted no time getting into the mid-life crisis dream. A hottie for each arm on top of of Mt Jefferson. Way to go Dan! ( I understand that Amy, Vita and Susie wont be happy about these comments but I live on the edge)<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJf2rh-fppf0bAwl3UUBoEY0awdLx_nenPJ_Aj5QDHB3uc9_47em5um4g23cv1g9_Wv9K8rvEEDLDAHt8f2YvEMSboQd0pcwKGryC6sDkfQH516ql3HhsUz0dkLFW7S0hBjg1UjeQBVAw4/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+101.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426043534731890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJf2rh-fppf0bAwl3UUBoEY0awdLx_nenPJ_Aj5QDHB3uc9_47em5um4g23cv1g9_Wv9K8rvEEDLDAHt8f2YvEMSboQd0pcwKGryC6sDkfQH516ql3HhsUz0dkLFW7S0hBjg1UjeQBVAw4/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+101.JPG" border="0" /></a>We relaxed our way up the mountain. It felt like we took a 20 minute break every hour. Oh well, it's not always a race. (but it will be next weekend, more on that later)<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwz2FZCYarz29o_-Wj-5ZNUQkX7Ud98s33KaSzrycaw9PldV70MkjAxKKr_fXpg-NGRi9Ppq1x3XXIiW6fjHUhH1nBJbIQY0Jdsi2BfO_jW90rXFESekrIflqp5HlIJBOPsVtYwVXLyC5o/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+108.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426031176046418" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwz2FZCYarz29o_-Wj-5ZNUQkX7Ud98s33KaSzrycaw9PldV70MkjAxKKr_fXpg-NGRi9Ppq1x3XXIiW6fjHUhH1nBJbIQY0Jdsi2BfO_jW90rXFESekrIflqp5HlIJBOPsVtYwVXLyC5o/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+108.JPG" border="0" /></a>I sneaked this pic. It was rather cool seeing the team take in the surroundings. Even though Dan is wearing a coat, it was T shirt weather. Something else cool that happened. I ran into a friend Clayton and his friend Tracy. They didn't bring pickets and they hooked up on ours. It was his friend Tracy's first technical climb so our pickets were a welcome sight. It seems I run into clayton from time to time and something special happens. Last time, we peer pressured each other into leading Gold Rush at Trout Creek. It was an on-site for me so that was especially cool. Small world, sorta.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUOBDjoQAsklYFcQdIdpYBrzd7l559RXjQlDBEDIjtvO83Va8MGLu90QKvEHrQnuky87DOyntf9UcX-ihE9A781dbdt7I0bd_nBMxUB2pCfrPl4x7qkENWQ60ToP6EL0z_DBktCzyq_U4/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+111.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426026512320258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijUOBDjoQAsklYFcQdIdpYBrzd7l559RXjQlDBEDIjtvO83Va8MGLu90QKvEHrQnuky87DOyntf9UcX-ihE9A781dbdt7I0bd_nBMxUB2pCfrPl4x7qkENWQ60ToP6EL0z_DBktCzyq_U4/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+111.JPG" border="0" /></a> So a friend of mine was complaining that I don't have pics of myself on my blog. I figure that people are sick of my mug but I decided I'd muster up the dorkiest pics that I could just for them. Ta da! (that'll teach em)<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5CZiDk-41QG-dN6GUGEGXjQOmcbPxpCF7L-sojFMRqMTwpc44e0E-mmzf3OjcUXKRQQDOIZvwzvb9Ql_A3SiYGTBI9duRQ6FJkmxlY5_eVkwCk01pmr06QMqBj-naI9mnpzHZeEtGauK/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+112.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426017047242930" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj5CZiDk-41QG-dN6GUGEGXjQOmcbPxpCF7L-sojFMRqMTwpc44e0E-mmzf3OjcUXKRQQDOIZvwzvb9Ql_A3SiYGTBI9duRQ6FJkmxlY5_eVkwCk01pmr06QMqBj-naI9mnpzHZeEtGauK/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+112.JPG" border="0" /></a>We began our decent down the pinnacle. As you climb leaders know, there's always a bit of apprehension on the summit because you still have to reverse the technical sections. I had just a bit of that. Our team was solid and between Matt, Amy and my own experience, I felt less like a climb leader than I ever have on a climb. We were just friends out for a walk. The summit was generally easy but there was a snowy/icy section that forced us onto some 5th class rock so we roped up for a section of it.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKU9q4CXDVCMv_-_gr8m8S2-OPRHzyuucFTToCS823qOJASdiC9KQ0WXeU8FdVr62F8K8b0S-PCW-VMGLheXLitEZNSWs9B4OBNNN32VLdR-lezjocc_Rv4iWE2gYUpvcebh8FmjC1lRNE/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+113.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506426009426478498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKU9q4CXDVCMv_-_gr8m8S2-OPRHzyuucFTToCS823qOJASdiC9KQ0WXeU8FdVr62F8K8b0S-PCW-VMGLheXLitEZNSWs9B4OBNNN32VLdR-lezjocc_Rv4iWE2gYUpvcebh8FmjC1lRNE/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+113.JPG" border="0" /></a> Amy decided she'd lead us out. Here she is on the shoulder about to reverse the traverse. She knocked in a picket just to get the belay started before she got onto the steep face.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3-njctBqz-sbD48v0JuAZgekYYnZrbxi0s2jh6OjFKow28avJCDx0t2GikKi7mW439hptCmy_k1CUTGm81ovzF1R4IErpcag6sS9PJuFGrxUYCEyD-9W6n4w4d5uSM2ZtvbH1qT3W-Dv/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+114.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506425364731362066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3-njctBqz-sbD48v0JuAZgekYYnZrbxi0s2jh6OjFKow28avJCDx0t2GikKi7mW439hptCmy_k1CUTGm81ovzF1R4IErpcag6sS9PJuFGrxUYCEyD-9W6n4w4d5uSM2ZtvbH1qT3W-Dv/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+114.JPG" border="0" /></a> She inspected and reset a few of the pickets from the way up. It was nice letting her see what its like on the sharp end. You have to kick in the steps, you have to make the holes for everybody else's ice axe. As you can guess, she did well.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_GDd_T6uxshi0PvRykpmpkDGLEKf2wXYHg9olYYbjBGJbuyo3q52pgyJ1qkgmi4ncYRW7w4ByHqTl_Dtdok3YsnPGZet50QdezkxvEzGAgI7zyXRLMRl5usN48J_0minLARjbb4hyphenhyphenGhGQ/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+116.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506425355384529522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_GDd_T6uxshi0PvRykpmpkDGLEKf2wXYHg9olYYbjBGJbuyo3q52pgyJ1qkgmi4ncYRW7w4ByHqTl_Dtdok3YsnPGZet50QdezkxvEzGAgI7zyXRLMRl5usN48J_0minLARjbb4hyphenhyphenGhGQ/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+116.JPG" border="0" /></a> We regained the ridge and just had to be careful not to squash each other with the boulders. I was expecially concerned because Wild Bill warned me that Vita was his girl and that I'd better take care of her. Susie also warned that I was a dead man if anything happened to Dan before their vacation. I did the best I could but Vita still managed to black and blue her leg w/ a giant wobbly rock. Fortunately for me she's tough and I think Bill will spare me. So Vita's a good climber, she's tough and she has an awesome mom, if only we could do something about her personality! :-) So in our battle of words and insults, it looks like I'll have the last say, I love it!<br /></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeWjfC9tzZBZco5EQINZ7W7LenPSN-LXBvrdPkG1BvhncusFlw8BcIXsoyQjlCQtIqVvdu45aGiJ4uRMnEQSVTxYk3Mdel8wuAm6qSMRDueFNZL3C3B2hWeHrHKafdO7YB7LF2qqpln3Jo/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+120.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506425348854886514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeWjfC9tzZBZco5EQINZ7W7LenPSN-LXBvrdPkG1BvhncusFlw8BcIXsoyQjlCQtIqVvdu45aGiJ4uRMnEQSVTxYk3Mdel8wuAm6qSMRDueFNZL3C3B2hWeHrHKafdO7YB7LF2qqpln3Jo/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+120.JPG" border="0" /></a> On the way back down, we were able to take our time and enjoy some of the crevasses a bit more. I don't take the mountains for granted but when you go out with new people, its a constant reminder of how fortunate we are to be able to enjoy these places.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim-Jk79THhCeHsc7MucLXsmg3Nf34yk1Av6AmZT5E0e3lMiZGIecdUCEh9zwmd1KNFDzTlcFEsOrL6sKmoLaD6j5ndFLlh9Jch9493emoRGlRjkeh92BA-UpWOyTG5vH_tj60qAmHl1xgW/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+122.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506425340446147714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim-Jk79THhCeHsc7MucLXsmg3Nf34yk1Av6AmZT5E0e3lMiZGIecdUCEh9zwmd1KNFDzTlcFEsOrL6sKmoLaD6j5ndFLlh9Jch9493emoRGlRjkeh92BA-UpWOyTG5vH_tj60qAmHl1xgW/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+122.JPG" border="0" /></a> Chuck gives us his mountain man pose. So far he's Lucky Chuck, yet to get turned back. Chuck looked me in the eye and said that I was by far the best climb leader he's climbed w/ all year. I was flattered. I asked him who else he'd climbed w/ this year, nobody, just me. Oh well, I'll take what I can get. I could of been the worst climb leader he's climbed w/. Gotta look on the bright side!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbDajJ1VtUhyphenhyphenGrKp6lFuZZo9bqMs_BEm-lh9qh2tW6wVaN6JddOmoGJqVQ94cBIcTZEYePp5VzwR9VS31i_t3gSfyry4CwtVLscWuSNEOF3upQnZLhyJlGTplR_9rPvcLrqnkMTzsYAr0o/s1600/Jefferson_Aug2010+123.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5506425331879548178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbDajJ1VtUhyphenhyphenGrKp6lFuZZo9bqMs_BEm-lh9qh2tW6wVaN6JddOmoGJqVQ94cBIcTZEYePp5VzwR9VS31i_t3gSfyry4CwtVLscWuSNEOF3upQnZLhyJlGTplR_9rPvcLrqnkMTzsYAr0o/s320/Jefferson_Aug2010+123.JPG" border="0" /></a> Many of you guys don't know Matt very well. He's like me but less refined:-0 </div><div>Scary I know. He's also a bit more wild and fly by night. Yes, even worse then me. Funny thing is, Vita just might be his equal! So it was easy to see that the apple hasn't fallen far from the tree. (Joanna=tree, Vita=apple)</div><div></div><div>This was a great trip and though I certainly have more to say, I'm doing my best to allow a the pictures to be worth a thousand words. Besides, I need to save some words for next weeks trip. Jeff Park Glacier in a day. All in all, I give the trip a 9.9. It was a mountain goat siting away from perfect.<br /><br /></div><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-4863750188925293462010-08-11T20:56:00.000-07:002010-08-11T21:33:42.368-07:00Mt Jefferson - Whitewater GlacierAug 13-15 2010<br /><br />Glad that we were able to get a good team w/ just one week notice. This is gonna be a great climb on Oregons most scenic peak, through one of nicest areas; Jefferson Park.<br /><br />The quick discription is this: We'll start at the Whitewater trail head (4100') and hike up to Jefferson Park (6000'). This stretch is about four miles. We'll camp between 6000' and 6500'.<br /><br />We'll gain Jefferson Park Glacier and treverse counter clockwise onto the Whitewater. We'll steadily gain elevation while negotiating the many crevasses. This will be low angle terrain but it'll also be a bit spicy w/ its many crevasses. We'll gain the SE Ridge at about 9000' ft and head up to the Red Saddle. From here we'll head over to the infamous traverse. Here we'll likely use pickets and then head up to the summit pinnacle which will be a 4th class scramble. We'll likely use a fixed line for this portion.<br /><br />The team is: Jess, Amy, Dan Sewell, Matt Lund, Vita Picchi and Chuck Bennett. I'm looking forward to some of my favorite Peeps and I'm also excited to climb w/ Vita. I know you're mom so well, I'm curious to see how far the apple has fallen from the tree :-)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/161558/whitewater-glacier.html">Here's </a>the link to summit posts description<br /><br /><a href="http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=44.676953912213165&lon=-121.79924011230469&site=pqr&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text">Here's the weather</a><br /><br />The Time line: Friday the 13th (ooooooh) 1215pm at the motor pool<br /> 0215pm arrive at the TH<br /> 0415pm arrive at camp<br /> Saturday the 14th 300am leave camp<br /> 1000am summit!<br /> 300pm back at camp<br /> Sunday early am 700am ish, head out and grab breakfast!<br /><br />Gear:<br />Climbing: harness, helmets, boots, 2 lockers, 2 nonlockers, prussiks, gaiters, crampons, trekking poles.<br /><br />Clothing: wind layers, insulating layers, gloves, hat, socks, undies.<br /><br />Camping: tent, sleeping bag, stove, fuel sleeping pad, headlamp.<br /><br />Other shtuff: sunblock, sunglasses, maybe bug spray, camera, chapstick.<br /><br />Nutrition: food for two dinners, two breakfasts (one no cook breakfast) two lunches, lots of snacks. Capacity to carry three liters of water.<br /><br />Group Gear: Spot locator, rope, 5 pickets, rock pro, radios, Chuck could you bring yours? Maps and compass, GPS, water filter, if anybody else has a filter it would be good to have two.<br /><br />We'll drive the Limo and there will be room for all of us. Looking forward to it!<br /><br />JPJess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-30055407000969112192010-07-18T17:38:00.000-07:002010-07-19T21:45:06.525-07:00N and M Sister 2010Mixed signals, mixed emotions and some mixed climbing.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMaX_SHJHLtA7ILGmqrz8etuYSWmouiKI4AgrNI4VqzOYmk3OrUecfzfZ0mRgnccjytaAm4xmSCSY5bNralO3IM8McLJrlauS3068AJ7Jo_E-t2CCacLTbDi1S4J4a3w2JgwZbaVFDy3_J/s1600/034.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495628025864192786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMaX_SHJHLtA7ILGmqrz8etuYSWmouiKI4AgrNI4VqzOYmk3OrUecfzfZ0mRgnccjytaAm4xmSCSY5bNralO3IM8McLJrlauS3068AJ7Jo_E-t2CCacLTbDi1S4J4a3w2JgwZbaVFDy3_J/s320/034.JPG" border="0" /></a>On Friday, July 16th, six Chemeketan climbers headed out for a trip up Middle and North Sister. The beautiful sister and the ugly sister. When I sent out my last call to fill the team, I received lots of responses and cautions. Apparently, the ugly sister was in a foul mood. Perfect. Sean Breslin had tried the week before and they were turned back due to steep snow on the traverse and ice w/ water running behind it in the bowling alley. Lisa Ripps had tried it the weekend before and warned that it was a two tool endeavor, she didn't say if they summitted or not so I assume they didn't? After hearing this news, I decided not to take any of the less experienced climbers who signed up. I also "forgot" to mention the potential difficulties to my team, OOPS! I was very happy w/ the climbers who were still signed up and I was also saddened that Susie Callahan and Dan Sewell were unable to make it:(<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJOyAl7JJfINnQw4MzPLxrg54C-BqO70tsdJcWbr_kDE4HNnYGgvcEcNIG-s5xl5F8s7BXCquQRW1SCnSsGCQNT-L2nx3lslpAfiwqEniDd14e9YaPGyN4JqIL1rbgxFjxGIm9g1kcWOub/s1600/040.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495628007863054162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJOyAl7JJfINnQw4MzPLxrg54C-BqO70tsdJcWbr_kDE4HNnYGgvcEcNIG-s5xl5F8s7BXCquQRW1SCnSsGCQNT-L2nx3lslpAfiwqEniDd14e9YaPGyN4JqIL1rbgxFjxGIm9g1kcWOub/s320/040.JPG" border="0" /></a> On the bright side I had an awesome team. Amanda Blankenship and Ryan Nisly didn't have tons of snow experience but they are both very athletic and I wasn't worried about how they'd hold up. Amanda has also caught several of my lead falls so that builds trust as well. Mike Mchugh and I have likely climbed together a dozen times and I'm comfortable w/ him. Chuck Bennet was the wild card, this would be his most difficult challenge but he's been up 9-10 mountains and everybody recommended him. I also climbed Shasta w/ him a few weeks ago and he's such good company, I figured that was good enough. I also had Amy on the team who is as good a climber as anybody in the club, plus she's the best assistant in the business. Apologies to the Jerry "Tomb Raider" Croft, but Amy's way better lookin. So we ended up w/ a team of six, seven if you count Ryans massive pack. If we had one more person, it would have been too much.</div><div></div><div>We left Salem a little after 100 pm on Friday and worked our way East. We arrived at camp at 700 pm and after the short approach, we all felt fresh. We set up camp in the warm sun and found a wind free area to cook. I've only had a few chances to hang out w/ Ryan so I was super greatful his awesome wife, Melissa, let him come out and play.</div><div></div><div>We left camp at 315 am on Saturday and found our way around the giant Moraine and up onto the Hayden Glacier.<br /><br /></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHAZRJfRFQDYIneDqCFhkt6QKl4KkoMbxZKnEG1laNPjUZr9Nv55C-aHVCD3ZP_5_Z3do5PrH3AQUld2I29EUIIMTpZKoWlU8V0cX5CS_MbUCp99f2RAf4iE2aJSEGJEJ7FijoSgt1cKKV/s1600/043.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627998553849138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHAZRJfRFQDYIneDqCFhkt6QKl4KkoMbxZKnEG1laNPjUZr9Nv55C-aHVCD3ZP_5_Z3do5PrH3AQUld2I29EUIIMTpZKoWlU8V0cX5CS_MbUCp99f2RAf4iE2aJSEGJEJ7FijoSgt1cKKV/s320/043.JPG" border="0" /></a> On our way up to the Saddle I was very tempted to cut my way through the gunsight towards North. None of the trip reports advised it but it looked so much shorter. I knew we were in for a long day and I was afraid my short cut might cost us the summit so I chickened out and went the stadard route, to the left of the Camels Hump. Discretion is the better part of Valor, whatever.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizXiPoAfLm2silpuAq4HcMic9wrFxcEGZER4wE8M_MUrS9-AO80-lyPRX6mUCXPnKpEGiXLjqdKPdP3UfyfrSdzxh44DzMufY9Hw366otmEgJe0h7QE-AHRhk5tTwpn7vg8je8InYN9MVm/s1600/051.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627997138689698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizXiPoAfLm2silpuAq4HcMic9wrFxcEGZER4wE8M_MUrS9-AO80-lyPRX6mUCXPnKpEGiXLjqdKPdP3UfyfrSdzxh44DzMufY9Hw366otmEgJe0h7QE-AHRhk5tTwpn7vg8je8InYN9MVm/s320/051.JPG" border="0" /></a> We headed up the snow slope and gained the S Ridge of the N Sister. It was as crumbly as I imagined. I've climbed North in full snow conditions (fun, pretty steep), full rock (crappy but still fun because we had a good team) and this would be my first time in mixed conditions. As you can see in the above pic, the standard trail on the S Ridge became a full value snow traverse. Many places where if you fell, there'd be no hope. I planned on hurrying ahead and setting up the fixed lines by myself so they'd be ready by the time the team caught up w/ me. This was out of the question as the lower ridge was full of its own dangers. I didn't want to leave the team.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEcFA6MEWi0nx-oyCBMobi23hObrMEXkLy0cieCcIlfJZ63EBxSlh7xBKjHIbasFtURY9wCU9T2r3376MxtlDLPT23X5yumSGLRIY3zZE_IGHE4cj00iZCfxhInlwSsyoYNj6XPrQIYMoH/s1600/052.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627984975522546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEcFA6MEWi0nx-oyCBMobi23hObrMEXkLy0cieCcIlfJZ63EBxSlh7xBKjHIbasFtURY9wCU9T2r3376MxtlDLPT23X5yumSGLRIY3zZE_IGHE4cj00iZCfxhInlwSsyoYNj6XPrQIYMoH/s320/052.JPG" border="0" /></a>After a few easy but serious snow traverses, we made it high on the ridge. Lots of crampons on and off, lots of crampon scrambling as well. There were lots of times where I had mixed feelings as to wether we should rope up or not. I trusted the team to be responsible for themselves and speak up if they wanted a rope. This team had my trust and I had theirs.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVtYBfHOSD744woUgYrJdGB4fSKlp6Q5Hov-xcJdWWcw80gjjMvA3p8UX851V3Bpxy8Wx0CUBe8jOfZh98F8qf9GFHTku3nlaWoFJLnWOYhSTNGZUr7wIbvlUe-tnR1ZiGvFaQMnyiAgs/s1600/053.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627602972294226" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVtYBfHOSD744woUgYrJdGB4fSKlp6Q5Hov-xcJdWWcw80gjjMvA3p8UX851V3Bpxy8Wx0CUBe8jOfZh98F8qf9GFHTku3nlaWoFJLnWOYhSTNGZUr7wIbvlUe-tnR1ZiGvFaQMnyiAgs/s320/053.JPG" border="0" /></a> This was one of the more exposed, unroped traverses. The ugly Sister in her Glory. I was loving it! After getting around several Gendarmes, we worked our way to the W side of the Ridge to the Terrible Traverse. There was enough wind to be annoying but not nearly enough to take the fun out of the climb. Certainly enough to freeze your butt off if you were standing still. Which the team had to do. </div><div></div><div>There's a pre-traverse before the Terrible Traverse. In dry conditions it's a narrow trail, in snow it's a steep sidehill. I started us out but soon realized that we'd have to break out the rope and pickets. The pre-traverse ranged from 40-50 degree snow. How would the traverse look? I was certainly concerned but I knew we could handle it. </div><div></div><div>So I generally feel like a good climb leader but I'm certainly always learning. We had a broken radio and a good radio which equals zero radios. Jess are you there? Yeah Jess I'm here. Can you hear me Jess? Yes I can hear, as a matter of fact Jess, I am you! Whose on second? Holly Cow!</div><div></div><div>I set a picket and began fixing the rope. When placing the pickets, I wanted them where the slope was most dangerous. That left them spaced unevenly and the rope had way to much sag. I basically fixed the rope on the way out for myself. I then had to go back and space the pickets more evenly. THEN I had to go back and communicate w/ the team who was around the corner(no radio). By the time the team started acrossed the slope, I had done the traverse twice in each direction. What a moron. Oh well. I had the first climber bring the second rope so that I could fix the remainder of the terrible traverse. After out-thinking myself, I found the way to the bowling alley. It looked like we were gonna make it.<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-z57pCbJA7Tk2pC_n02FC_I5tWL_KkrLn0NOVa6l5cFuP3kpWO1Llbg_idZKDT23Q0hRR0JJhx2KN5WMpQ-4nyZiUn0G5_E1Frf49eTvXisHGsv1ZqwvZnz1z4xx7g4BVmOoxuonvUE3/s1600/054.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627602523449826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-z57pCbJA7Tk2pC_n02FC_I5tWL_KkrLn0NOVa6l5cFuP3kpWO1Llbg_idZKDT23Q0hRR0JJhx2KN5WMpQ-4nyZiUn0G5_E1Frf49eTvXisHGsv1ZqwvZnz1z4xx7g4BVmOoxuonvUE3/s320/054.JPG" border="0" /></a> In the above pic, you can see ryan working his way acrossed the pre-traverse. I had to kick lots of steps and every bike ride and hill run was paying off. After fixing the last stretch to the bowling alley, the team began showing up and we regrouped in the bowling alley. That left Amy to clean the first fixed line herself. She took in coils while mind her prussik knot. Not an easy task on 60 degree snow, she managed like a champ. </div><div></div><div>With the second rope in hand, I began the final pitch up the bowling alley to the summit ridge. Amanda belayed me while Amy was decompressing. I'd heard how bad the bowling alley was and I was soooo excited to climb it. There was some snow to start the pitch, some ice climbing in the middle, some rock and ice climbing toward the end and lastly, an icy rocky bulge to top out. Sprinkled in was the rhotten rock that makes up the Ugly Sister. I used only one axe but had the second axe holstered in my gear loop. At times I had to stow the first axe for a few rock moves. The crux came toward the top where the ice was unreliable on the low angle portion. I had to go mantel up onto a steep rock ledge. One of the rocks was loose and you could push down on it, but if you pulled out, it would probably pull out and cream me. I managed to get a picket, a stopper and a sling for protection. As I manteled onto the ledge, I got an axe placement that helped me to top out and I was having as much fun climbing as I had in a long time. Often, when leading a club climb, the climbing is rather easy and I'm setting up the rope for them. In this case, I was doing some real climbing and I wanted the belay.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAXtfNQK9aofbyH9u7MMaiSb0kcrqp1kkeen2eZl96qG6jEpHFHgwxuoGqYjeTo5MlI2FXkO8yCfCe8acrq69ClOp2YtnH7vkkkqwrocFkpyu3geFK3XmLU_12Yhey7uNNqGjKy8064jBm/s1600/056.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627590195791394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAXtfNQK9aofbyH9u7MMaiSb0kcrqp1kkeen2eZl96qG6jEpHFHgwxuoGqYjeTo5MlI2FXkO8yCfCe8acrq69ClOp2YtnH7vkkkqwrocFkpyu3geFK3XmLU_12Yhey7uNNqGjKy8064jBm/s320/056.JPG" border="0" /></a> I fixed the line and tried to find a good place to take pictures of the team climbing the pitch. I was unable to find a great place because I didn't want to drop ice and rock on them so I was unable to get a great vantage point. </div><div></div><div>So how would Chuck do? Like I said, he was the wild card. Well Chuck managed just fine. I think the climb was as spicy as anybody wanted and Chuck followed the pitch like an ole pro. Only slower and he was very quite. All in all, he did awesome and he should feel great about his accomplishment.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRBc2xa_Uf3fDB086sGO6wwHeDqdCgFfW7tJeotbUL0JRa3nFqUIRei5K63q_CLKPQaCe13pNmUSnht3-I9KP5jbdXsqsqqoLjUZ4-tLUjgiZqOL-lx0oIcNykDxZ0buc7Xjg2ba_zMiCQ/s1600/059.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627581192548066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRBc2xa_Uf3fDB086sGO6wwHeDqdCgFfW7tJeotbUL0JRa3nFqUIRei5K63q_CLKPQaCe13pNmUSnht3-I9KP5jbdXsqsqqoLjUZ4-tLUjgiZqOL-lx0oIcNykDxZ0buc7Xjg2ba_zMiCQ/s320/059.JPG" border="0" /></a>As good of a rock climber as Amanda is, this was her first real challenge on snow. She cried and whined the whole way. OK, so anybody who knows Amanda knows better. I kept calling to her to look up so I could get a picture but screamed back, "Jess, I'm workin here!!" I had to laugh and when she had the worst of it behind her and was smiling, I was super proud of her. She Rocks!<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVoJSj46QUIioiuTMOT3Bq09ziSs-N-C_Mmms-ELx34zR17LLTSZP2x_wuht-vpSgxWFZkTDIEj7VNg0hWrgTma465hi_2C8d-2RwXm48PHUdNFLo-NXt80M2b9qpH2hzpVdmL5iqAsQeo/s1600/062.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627572865357586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVoJSj46QUIioiuTMOT3Bq09ziSs-N-C_Mmms-ELx34zR17LLTSZP2x_wuht-vpSgxWFZkTDIEj7VNg0hWrgTma465hi_2C8d-2RwXm48PHUdNFLo-NXt80M2b9qpH2hzpVdmL5iqAsQeo/s320/062.JPG" border="0" /></a>The team wouldn't have managed without Amy. She picked up all of my slack. She was the person I counted on (in life and in climbing) to make sure everything went smooth. Plus she's the most encouraging person I know. I'm a very lucky guy!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij3qYnVPxL8DSIOfzODHe4iBXkvkB1NQxHZyeZpw9OvhT5hyzgUQOXJi35ZTZBUl8t0mcGLTC1G_SbDabK-JEQZAzRE3BdsFpdRbGHr_Of542_2qOcQM3nJMG7kpHaH_v3fNA278wjTRvL/s1600/066.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627118586609442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij3qYnVPxL8DSIOfzODHe4iBXkvkB1NQxHZyeZpw9OvhT5hyzgUQOXJi35ZTZBUl8t0mcGLTC1G_SbDabK-JEQZAzRE3BdsFpdRbGHr_Of542_2qOcQM3nJMG7kpHaH_v3fNA278wjTRvL/s320/066.JPG" border="0" /></a>Yes, it was a hard climb, Yes I was sad that some of the team couldn't be there, Yes the team did a great job, Yes I love our Club.<br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFsilJJ1-u9dmuEQUXdwwLSenaDoBYWhKDYlrPu1P4SnN3qJG83u902Y_BiVxZmLiIzMHSwHmk2QeetTLl4gxNiZrSe0gIcm5y7m6zZjZu2FcS94Jv-k0-Jq3qQPOjKIh7AKU8ua52snA6/s1600/069.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627101708278066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFsilJJ1-u9dmuEQUXdwwLSenaDoBYWhKDYlrPu1P4SnN3qJG83u902Y_BiVxZmLiIzMHSwHmk2QeetTLl4gxNiZrSe0gIcm5y7m6zZjZu2FcS94Jv-k0-Jq3qQPOjKIh7AKU8ua52snA6/s320/069.JPG" border="0" /></a>We ran into a guy Thomas who was newish to climbing who managed to follow us and use our ropes (with permission). He's got an aptitude for it but he's certainly a candidate for climbschool. I hope he takes the time. Trial and error is tough way to learn how to climb. He'd learned his prussik knot from the internet and was practicing for the first time on this climb. I'm impressed by he's audacity and I respect his boldness. Hopefully that works out for him.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEEqtckKtv5mkkfrqxHqR7xelsJxCSj9ochWroLzhYnyohWs4vy8PyeDeV-aA4NuVrM7WK1Ad9EKgoNrgof5QlmhznJxPItrEpWSnZpdwIhwpOGYk_w3Ve7mz30ZyOK304nZib4N2JB8Xa/s1600/070.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627084464640466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEEqtckKtv5mkkfrqxHqR7xelsJxCSj9ochWroLzhYnyohWs4vy8PyeDeV-aA4NuVrM7WK1Ad9EKgoNrgof5QlmhznJxPItrEpWSnZpdwIhwpOGYk_w3Ve7mz30ZyOK304nZib4N2JB8Xa/s320/070.JPG" border="0" /></a>Thanks to the clubs new 70m ropes, I was able to set a single, fixed rope rappel that got everybody out of the bowling alley and down to the traverse. I than doubled the rope and was able to rappel past most of the difficulties and down climb the rest. Excellent decision to get the new long ropes, three cheers for Big John. Amy lead the Terrible traverse back. I soloed over to the corner so I could communicate between the climbers. (my bad on the radios again) Here you can see that Amanda was as proud of herself as I was of her. For good reason.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbh6_77EuLbG5P0VuEbjKqXLmnCtJUdiFC0cdDaMyXmIc6Tix2CrMFrIhpUVYtYPJVO8XeC48e8QohrTNHbm_sn0H34OHg5sBCJvducuZRHVR6gZNCrSkpivruW9IMQ_3fUCyvU81QmSZy/s1600/071.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495627074378855666" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbh6_77EuLbG5P0VuEbjKqXLmnCtJUdiFC0cdDaMyXmIc6Tix2CrMFrIhpUVYtYPJVO8XeC48e8QohrTNHbm_sn0H34OHg5sBCJvducuZRHVR6gZNCrSkpivruW9IMQ_3fUCyvU81QmSZy/s320/071.JPG" border="0" /></a>So Mike was also a strong team member. Here, you can see him finishing up w/ the final fixed line of the pre-traverse. If you look, you can see our boot path behind him. I've climbed w/ Mike lots of times but I finally feel like I'm getting to know him. He's a solid climber, he never does the last minute cancellation and he's very reliable. This was also his most difficult climb and his 17th Peak of the 18 Peak award. Now if Ellen can get him to the top of Thielsen, pressure's on Ellen! Oh wait a minute, Ellen's the best climb leader in our club and Thielsen is not that hard. Congrats Mike, looking forward to the next one.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAFJovTWRY_IkpTZtJelItefjD2KEQ6cqjqywfbS9g1KqeI3tFY8eOFQ6dhZ0XkoMeKsGjytIAWcgLMWUhMr4mbZsEDjo9gcqqUGQP_THC4wIP8iR-lwGNWvLIzbJgga7twPRXkVXNzKmg/s1600/074.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495626421346394402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAFJovTWRY_IkpTZtJelItefjD2KEQ6cqjqywfbS9g1KqeI3tFY8eOFQ6dhZ0XkoMeKsGjytIAWcgLMWUhMr4mbZsEDjo9gcqqUGQP_THC4wIP8iR-lwGNWvLIzbJgga7twPRXkVXNzKmg/s320/074.JPG" border="0" /></a>One of the best parts of this trip was the incredible views of all of our NW mountains. We could see 3FJ, Washington, jefferson, Hood, St Helens, Adams and Rainier to the North.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTY7sQoVwejuvsr78UaRZueFQtlYh6_IrFSyAVH3iwhYxJzXHKNsD9WJIiq8uNdnVfIvYBfRLj_sMQsmoupsBT8F7AVX7JEE5o9h-Dy36ofJAcKc5uCNnng_N6oqKtKCP9cPxk_4R3uasz/s1600/075.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495626412517009826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTY7sQoVwejuvsr78UaRZueFQtlYh6_IrFSyAVH3iwhYxJzXHKNsD9WJIiq8uNdnVfIvYBfRLj_sMQsmoupsBT8F7AVX7JEE5o9h-Dy36ofJAcKc5uCNnng_N6oqKtKCP9cPxk_4R3uasz/s320/075.JPG" border="0" /></a> So now, the second half of our trip. As you can see, Ryan was beat. This was his first climb in a looong time. Three daughters later, he's back at it. He didn't want to climb Middle, nor did Chuck. Chuck's excuse was he didn't have water, Ryan gave him some, out of excuses Chuck decided to head up Middle Sister as well. Now that Chuck was gonna go, Ryan couldn't let the old guy go up while he waited at the bottom. Peer pressure at its finest.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgICOqPBGFJMsBjf8w8gg73BpPqupM5r0PRHQQ-r0q4HgBkBSE2X5iYXC69s5djkZMunkjla3wXalG4RtGRrF5FYvBfRAE1mDUYnpSSrEIbioqXPa0qKKqgyyOEPItZa7693zSQ7_dU4DqC/s1600/046.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495626401482786514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgICOqPBGFJMsBjf8w8gg73BpPqupM5r0PRHQQ-r0q4HgBkBSE2X5iYXC69s5djkZMunkjla3wXalG4RtGRrF5FYvBfRAE1mDUYnpSSrEIbioqXPa0qKKqgyyOEPItZa7693zSQ7_dU4DqC/s320/046.JPG" border="0" /></a> Amy wasn't interested in going up Middle Sister, she was content w/ the days accomplishments. Middle Sister would be her 18th Peak! Amanda arrived at the saddle and after unloading our extra gear and ropes, we twisted Amy's arm and she raced ahead of us and climbed the Middle Sister!<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguEYLafu4tmZHB6kNMjlbqhpSrL8J1r0Y2pGmwVMTOqPWSY4UFBNhmaoIjNsiga23BThZW6LhN_1V1eAc8n5Vf_MkTTkmbrWHsBT1qaFTgSJYFjog2FOdfJUlMBrn2YoeNK85HcpTZhpah/s1600/077.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495626395237819970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguEYLafu4tmZHB6kNMjlbqhpSrL8J1r0Y2pGmwVMTOqPWSY4UFBNhmaoIjNsiga23BThZW6LhN_1V1eAc8n5Vf_MkTTkmbrWHsBT1qaFTgSJYFjog2FOdfJUlMBrn2YoeNK85HcpTZhpah/s320/077.JPG" border="0" /></a> So what does the 18th mean to Amy? Who am I to say? I'll say it anyway. Amy took climbschool to see what I'm up to. No real interest in climbing. We've met some incredible people people and I know that's whats important to Amy. Never mind that she's one of the most natural talented climbers that I climb with. Never mind that she's always strong and ready to encourage. I think what she'll get out of this: she's faced her fear (afraid of heights), she's seen some awesome views, she's been to some beautiful places, she's shared an open bivy with me. More than anything, I believe Amy just wants to encourage people and show them that they can. They can do whatever they want. That's want she gives me daily and she's got so much encouragement, it overflows to those around her.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnEvEIkDoPFNsZbPVsF2go-BxIWAhyphenhyphen493G2bHH9d84EofxXMiaqN2HfQ8b39w_tAmFOtBh6rsnyyNtSG06t0T4cJqQN200rMSBz_Gavr0ZmzncxyDFQ2tspvhDoWIEBuKkkmddYHrw9q8/s1600/078.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5495626386374068434" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnEvEIkDoPFNsZbPVsF2go-BxIWAhyphenhyphen493G2bHH9d84EofxXMiaqN2HfQ8b39w_tAmFOtBh6rsnyyNtSG06t0T4cJqQN200rMSBz_Gavr0ZmzncxyDFQ2tspvhDoWIEBuKkkmddYHrw9q8/s320/078.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ryan and Amanda worked their way up as did Chuck and Mike. We sat atop the Middle Sister and more than anything, we were just dazed. We sat exhausted after the days trials and wondered what the heck we were doing up there.</div><div></div><div>We descended very quickly and I think we were back at camp after just a couple hours. We ate like pigs, patted each other on the back and thanked everybody for the great trip. When I woke up, I saw Ryan sitting, eating breakfast facing Broken Top. I was glad I was able to be the leader of this group and I'm glad that they trust me enough to take them to these places. I watched him for another second and I was Grateful for this life. <div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-45561110666360732662010-07-13T20:53:00.000-07:002010-07-13T21:37:59.975-07:00N and M Sister ComboAlright troops, looks like the weather is all clear. The trip is a go. We are gonna meet at 100pm on Friday 16th at the State Motor Pool in Salem.<br /><br /><a href="http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=44.15954864936028&lon=-121.77967071533203&site=pdt&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text">Weather</a><br /><br />We will leave at 1:15. I'll bring the team gear, you guys bring your personal stuff which will include:<br /><br />Nutrition: Two dinners, two lunches and two breakfasts w/ lots of snacks. One breakfast should be a no cook breakfast. Capacity for carrying three liters of water. We'll find water.<br /><br />Climbing: Boots, gaiters, crampons, ice axe, harness, prussiks, two lockers, two non lockers, helmet and trekking poles are recommended. Headlamp.<br /><br />Clothing: Looks like its gonna be warm but they are still mtns. Wind/rain gear, insulating layers, gloves and hat, extra socks.<br /><br />Camping: Tent, stove, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, bring shovels if you have them, there's a slight chance we'll be camping on snow. Emergency blanket and water filter. Blue Bags<br /><br />Other stuff: chapstick, camera, compass, map, sun screen, sunglasses, sun hat, headlamp, bandana. First Aid, blister care, medication.<br /><br />We will arrive at the Pole Creek TH at 3:30 pm<br />We will arrive at camp by 700 pm on Friday. (6500'-7000')<br /><br />Saturday 300 am depart camp<br />Saturday 800 summit N Sister<br />Saturday 1200 summit M Sister<br />Back to camp late afternoon.<br />Hike out sunday am<br /><br />We will leave the trailhead (5300) and hike till 6400' where we'll go cross country and leave the Timberline. Ideally we'd camp at 7000' but we'll have to see where the snow stops.<br /><br />We'll gain the Hayden Glacier in the morning and reach the col between N and M sister. We'll head up the S ridge of the N sister and head toward the bowling alley and the Terrible Travers. These two sections will take two hours on their own, the hiking will take about two and a half hours. We'll then head back to the saddle and go up the N Ridge of the Middle Sister. There wont likely be any rope work on this section.<br /><br />This is gonna be a fun trip and with some good fortune and good decision making, Amy and Mike McHugh will have reached all 18 of the Award NW Peaks.<br /><br />My computer is really slow right now so you're gonna have to research these routes on your own via summit post or cascadeclimbers.com<br /><br />I'll be driving the Limo and we'll have room for 6 if we pack tight.<br /><br />See you guys, call w/ questions!Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-78579641611739236632010-06-19T15:27:00.000-07:002010-06-19T17:15:45.281-07:00Mt Jefferson, W Rib or Whitewater GlacierI will go for a "hike" and check out the W Rib this week. I suspect conditions are just right but ...<br /><br />Regardless of the route we climb, the gear will be the same. You can check them out below:<br /><br /><a href="http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=891141">W Rib TR</a><br /><br /><a href="http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=687718">W Rib TR #2</a><br />You'll see that some snow is good, too much snow not good.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/161558/whitewater-glacier.html">Whitewater route discription</a><br /><br />I'm going to "hike" the area one day this week t0 see if the W rib is in shape and keep people posted. If it is, we'll go that way. It looks like we may need a fixed line on the Rib and a fixed line on the summit. If its too sporty, we'll stick to the Whitewater. As I've mentioned, this one of the few oregon routes that I really want to climb so we'll hope for the best.<br /><br />Here's the rest of shtuff you guys will need:<br /><br /><strong>Nutrion:</strong> two dinners, two breakfasts (one that doesn't require cooking) two lunches and lots of snacks. Warm drinks are great moral boosters. Capacity to carry three liters of water. Food for back at the car.<br /><br /><strong>Camping:</strong> headlamp, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, sturdy tent, stove w/ extra fuel and one emergency blanket for every three people. (we'll bring two and someone can carry one of them up) We may be camping on snow so we'll need 2-4 shovels) Bring em if you have em and we'll sort it out at the TH.<br /><br /><strong>Navigation: </strong>a few compass's, we'll bring a few maps and GPS. We'll also bring a SPOT locator.<br /><br /><strong>Climbing:</strong> Boots, gaiters, harness, helmet, headlamp, trekking poles, crampons, ice axe, two lockers, two non-lockers, prussiks, belay device and sense of adventure!<br /><br /><strong>Clothing</strong> insulating layers, top and bottom. Wind gear, warm jacket and baselayers. Two pairs of socks. Warm hat and gloves.<br /><br /><strong>Other goodies:</strong> summit treats, snickers bars. Camera, sun block, sunglasses, chapstick and very likely, <strong>snowshoes.</strong> I'll let you know after I do my recon. Sit pads can be nice if we end up camping on snow. Bandana is good for sun protection and snot rag and wiping moisture from tent.<br /><br /><strong>Team Gear: </strong>two ropes, four pickets radios. We have one (I broke the other) so if somebody could let me know and bring one as well if they have it.<br /><br />The plan is this:<br /><br />Friday 25 100pm meet at motor pool (leave by 1:15)<br /> 215pm arrive at TH (3000') ish<br /> 630pm arrive at camp (7000') ish<br />Sat 26 400am depart camp<br /> 1030am summit (10,497)<br /> 230pm back at camp<br />Sun 27 hike 0ut and grab pizza at Giovanni's<br /> <br />This is the itenerary for the W rib, it'll change if we do the Whitewater but we'll have to wait and see. We'll leave town at the same time either way and we'll get back at the same time: early afternoon on sunday. If all goes well, we may be tempted to hike out saturday evening but don't count on it.<br /><br />As many of you know, I don't climb to get to the summit, I climb to have fun. If all you care about is reaching the summit, this may not be the climb for you. Maybe you should wait for a S Ridge in September. This will be fun and we will be safe, or we'll turn back.<br /><br />I know it feels like Junetober but it looks like the <a href="http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=44.68818283842486&lon=-121.82464599609375&site=pdt&smap=1&unit=0&lg=en&FcstType=text">weather</a> will cooperate!Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-89515788056897887622010-06-06T16:26:00.001-07:002010-06-06T22:39:22.125-07:00Mt Shasta W Face Gully 2010<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj028SWUY59FRWWaefmncG_oL90yf7Y1qLe_uCsl_NWVETwqFTdMg1HRpEkn3mfU7tScXIzxg9tYptreFgOyBJDD_X9uM2G8XtA5IhBte0bk5aqOEJF5hhJfDCB1stbefINW-7VU6ja-0zN/s1600/Shasta+2010+011.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479811247085715458" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj028SWUY59FRWWaefmncG_oL90yf7Y1qLe_uCsl_NWVETwqFTdMg1HRpEkn3mfU7tScXIzxg9tYptreFgOyBJDD_X9uM2G8XtA5IhBte0bk5aqOEJF5hhJfDCB1stbefINW-7VU6ja-0zN/s320/Shasta+2010+011.JPG" /></a><br />As many of you know, Mt Shasta has been a nemesis of mine for the last few years. I've wanted to help Joanna Picchi achieve the 18 peak award and Mt Shasta has been nothing but trouble. Our original date a few years ago was postponed due to weather, when we finally got a great forecast, a freak storm almost blew us off the mountain at 12,500. The only consolation was Rick Barry's team was weathered off as well. Last year, the trip was weathered out and we didn't leave the ground. This year, we started off w/ two postponed dates. The monday before Memorial day, I had to cancel the trip because of a snow. On Wednesday, while I was trying to digest the fact that Shasta wasn't gonna go in 2010, I checked the forecast just to punish myself.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6HE-Y96bp_mfa6UfQKA9b_ExbFZ0kKmWUsQF0C8FWYsA8JAXAydJG2eA1d5cWo8LQ705RpjXZpnSG3STKJkHWcinUczK3ENfkJl9jON8krDViQB_Lttbhh3LCRsLcTjdUe3CSpZKSw-wO/s1600/Shasta+2010+013.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479811241413344514" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6HE-Y96bp_mfa6UfQKA9b_ExbFZ0kKmWUsQF0C8FWYsA8JAXAydJG2eA1d5cWo8LQ705RpjXZpnSG3STKJkHWcinUczK3ENfkJl9jON8krDViQB_Lttbhh3LCRsLcTjdUe3CSpZKSw-wO/s320/Shasta+2010+013.JPG" /></a> The forecast went from 10-16" of snow to blue skies. I checked w/ the team and the VIP's were able to make it. Unfortunately, five of the twelve were unable to make the trip. We did however, pick up a scraggler. When I say scraggler, I mean none other than the Curmudgeonly Bill Saur, or shall I say Bill Sour. So that made eight of us; Me, Amy (who also needs Shasta for her 18, not that she cares), Wild Bill, Joanna "the VIP" Picchi, Little John Coyier, Stephen Rockford and Cathy Lazarus, last but not least, Chuck "no I'm not the guy running for Mayor" Bennett. The plan was to meet at the TH. I was struggling w/ a wicked head cold so breathing was tough when I was sitting on my couch and and I had very little energy. Not looking good.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsGQL0kKfOyZczHe_k_yG3Z8EPdabGtP2END3z1olwFrpdfcDS-rwOrpg0Xg06cef178g24cSTdMnx1Edp4jT1q4OolpeBIQzIhYn1OBVLW8eUENTf-F66AmUO6C7CkOtsjdD0u-MH-fB/s1600/018%5B1%5D.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479811231084697138" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsGQL0kKfOyZczHe_k_yG3Z8EPdabGtP2END3z1olwFrpdfcDS-rwOrpg0Xg06cef178g24cSTdMnx1Edp4jT1q4OolpeBIQzIhYn1OBVLW8eUENTf-F66AmUO6C7CkOtsjdD0u-MH-fB/s320/018%5B1%5D.JPG" /></a> Joanna had no idea that Wild Bill was gonna show for the trip. I "accidently" failed to mention that he was coming and he surprised her at the Park n Ride. So he drove from Seattle, on Memorial day weekend to Salem to hitch a ride to go and sleep who knows where, to climb a mountain he hates, just so he could be there when Joanna hopefully was gonna achieve her 18th. Pressure's on Jess!<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqjPl7Yz73XTAyrkp6dsv1NqzBNnbrQ3DSBIcjZ9o4e94kYwwRaK7XLzcYPGSJLGH0LRm8p487tnB-T1PiKYf-m4SlX8KUOAinRK8JsgItyXDy4XXAJYE6bU9CFzymK4gFgdOol6m3olr/s1600/Shasta+2010+017.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479811228720947474" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsqjPl7Yz73XTAyrkp6dsv1NqzBNnbrQ3DSBIcjZ9o4e94kYwwRaK7XLzcYPGSJLGH0LRm8p487tnB-T1PiKYf-m4SlX8KUOAinRK8JsgItyXDy4XXAJYE6bU9CFzymK4gFgdOol6m3olr/s320/Shasta+2010+017.JPG" /></a> We left the park n ride at 600 pm on Friday after I got off work. We talked to Chuck who was already at the TH w/ Stephen and Cathy and they said it was packed at Bunny Flats. As we were passing Mt Ashland, we decided that we could just Bandit camp at Mt Ashland. We found the ski area parking lot (6600') vacant and decided to acclimatize/camp there. I woke up and Bill was "bivying" next to our running boards. The last ole guy I saw sleeping on the asphalt was homeless. So we have a new name for the Wild One, Burnside Bill.</div><div></div><div>Sorry its taking me so long to get to the climb but often, the story behind the story is more important. Especially when the odds were against us. Three ole folks, three newish climbers, a sicky, a sketchy forecast, and a giant mountain.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWUQKJkB9zjR0PlzWcNrLlp4ANOwEdjaHO8wte8hFqTSIozVK-UqUPHEbfy4lylmOS0K1k7NxZh5ogwjc-mVKwLoe0wxg2XEa5RudHBrkvQleWIAL5jL05dejxg1zlTeKrPB4-dT5MEyr3/s1600/Shasta+2010+021.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479810211166769314" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWUQKJkB9zjR0PlzWcNrLlp4ANOwEdjaHO8wte8hFqTSIozVK-UqUPHEbfy4lylmOS0K1k7NxZh5ogwjc-mVKwLoe0wxg2XEa5RudHBrkvQleWIAL5jL05dejxg1zlTeKrPB4-dT5MEyr3/s320/Shasta+2010+021.JPG" /></a>After our mini epic we managed to make it to the TH and the weather was perfect! The plan was to snowshoe up to Horse Camp, separate from the hordes and head West to Hidden Valley; which hid from us. There's generally a trail over to Hidden Valley but they had tons of snow and the entire way was covered in snow. We had to decend 100' into Hidden Valley and it was sorta steep. A few people slipped and fell which turned into a glissade down to the Valley floor at 9200'. I've been on Shasta when the forecast is perfect and almost been blown away so I decided to dig in camp in the moat of a massive rock. To make up for my minor route finding error, I decided to dig all of the tent platforms while the rest of the team was Barnum and Bailey-ing their way down the slope. Of course, Wild Bill showed up bleeding. It was quite comedic watching the people thrash their way down the slope, my bad guys:-)<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAJxUrrTtUuN_d-ne80DZ149fH3zptBixCr8iOm4ugA58dQaveZLpToVcot_PsGzSaz0NZNVS9wOV0JcVpwxyMfQUZu-tRqN6iUqaNba-ZW5ceIxGyeKBPhgPQ0BTPRU9Tt7KPA1mYTd-Q/s1600/Shasta+2010+019.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479810204014393954" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAJxUrrTtUuN_d-ne80DZ149fH3zptBixCr8iOm4ugA58dQaveZLpToVcot_PsGzSaz0NZNVS9wOV0JcVpwxyMfQUZu-tRqN6iUqaNba-ZW5ceIxGyeKBPhgPQ0BTPRU9Tt7KPA1mYTd-Q/s320/Shasta+2010+019.JPG" /></a>We got our tents set up and enjoyed dinner in the warmth of the sun. I generally don't care about reaching summits but its something to do while I'm enjoying the outdoors. That said, I've never wanted to get my team to a summit as badly as I did on Mt Shasta. My head had been pounding for a few days and it was just getting worse. I was glad that Bill was along just in case I was unable to continue. Yeah right. </div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaX5Jj74yw4mN25fRsuCP4b4bf9squOlCw_Rte9j3mmLKjsxfNMFpx4Z_uH5Au9vPjlw9ksyuv660LFTWKtE291IjdXFV9PExAHUP6vkh80cjzELe9RhupKowBlYfDpiq-DbAhPp1oLQ9t/s1600/Shasta+2010+024.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479810199296620690" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaX5Jj74yw4mN25fRsuCP4b4bf9squOlCw_Rte9j3mmLKjsxfNMFpx4Z_uH5Au9vPjlw9ksyuv660LFTWKtE291IjdXFV9PExAHUP6vkh80cjzELe9RhupKowBlYfDpiq-DbAhPp1oLQ9t/s320/Shasta+2010+024.JPG" /></a> We decided to leave camp at 330 am. The snow wasn't as consolidated as I'd of liked and there were two distinct layers. I was somewhat concerned but the angle of the route is low and an avalanche was highly unlikely. Shasta had been getting hammered by storms and this was the first weather window in months, the mountain was swarmed w/ climbers. On our route, there were less than 20 climbers, Avy Gulch, a few hundred.</div><div></div><div>We made slow progress over the first two thousand feet. I checked w/ the team and I could see that one of us was on the verge of bailure. I tried to encourage them but it was clear they had neglected their nutrition. Amy offered up one of her containers of Hammer Gel, I taught the rest step and on we went. We reached the steeper part of the route and it was time to break out the ice axes. But wait, we were an ice axe short. This person insists that they didn't forget their ice axe but that the axe "misplaced itself!" I was comfortable w/ my poles so I offered mine up and on we went. This person was afraid they'd be black listed for forgetting their axe so I wont say who they were but I'll say that I've done much worse and people still let me on their climbs. Were always learning aren't we?<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDpPEEiV2hxfGzYZEtz6ee5UHTh7YEDuVdcf-EhuCNpZiUc3ReYdkb5HFFWqhwYiWtoc8CLfZKuGIVoITOm3gW4nnB-7haWqN9qctszixiNR7fCqNZPuZNab-AXHDJJyZoDsqticvVBLVs/s1600/Shasta+2010+033.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479810188390120018" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDpPEEiV2hxfGzYZEtz6ee5UHTh7YEDuVdcf-EhuCNpZiUc3ReYdkb5HFFWqhwYiWtoc8CLfZKuGIVoITOm3gW4nnB-7haWqN9qctszixiNR7fCqNZPuZNab-AXHDJJyZoDsqticvVBLVs/s320/Shasta+2010+033.JPG" /></a> We topped out on the West Face and the summit was soooo far away. People were struggling w/ the altitude but the team was generally doing very well, except for me. On the outside, I was doing just fine, on the inside, my head was pounding and I felt tired. I had probably coughed up a quart of brown phlegm and I couldn't breath through my nose. I've learned that I can will my way through alot and so we continued on.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomPRuM4751R_wygh7C9MR34CmjfR9IDOkaEhnGsLhIvkAiCnJ1TpZwkbpvxdBGkqWFscrlzGmut4ZNGI2YnvahfdlP_RMAD-KRIT4oAEXZOr10Exb6Txwz6Ce_pgleZA1g8TkE-usTfuu/s1600/Shasta+2010+042.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479810182576931362" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiomPRuM4751R_wygh7C9MR34CmjfR9IDOkaEhnGsLhIvkAiCnJ1TpZwkbpvxdBGkqWFscrlzGmut4ZNGI2YnvahfdlP_RMAD-KRIT4oAEXZOr10Exb6Txwz6Ce_pgleZA1g8TkE-usTfuu/s320/Shasta+2010+042.JPG" /></a>We topped out on Misery Hill and it looked like it was gonna go. I did my best to get Wild Bill to cool his jets and slow down, Joanna was storming behind him and the newbies were finding their second wind. My spirits were up and for a second or two I felt good.<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBmP8RM3Ta1byip2lrc2g9OGBbA9K1pkYV0j6gcJi72kn93hmiSwYI5io458oO6JoQuFN9yDW5nEzJ4PNc90fjy1g-91weM3DthyZLGxXtWoNyAkn-msgK2rSaSyviIekVmxD15ErvEi7/s1600/Shasta+2010+046.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479808775915198434" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimBmP8RM3Ta1byip2lrc2g9OGBbA9K1pkYV0j6gcJi72kn93hmiSwYI5io458oO6JoQuFN9yDW5nEzJ4PNc90fjy1g-91weM3DthyZLGxXtWoNyAkn-msgK2rSaSyviIekVmxD15ErvEi7/s320/Shasta+2010+046.JPG" /></a>The way I'm wired, I don't set goals and I don't feel very much satisfaction when I reach a summit. Getting myself to a summit just isn't very fulfilling. I get my pleasure from pushing against things that are hard to move. My joy comes in the form of sweat and when I'm tired enough, I feel something that vaguely resembles inner peace. My saving grace is that I take tremendous pleasure in other peoples achievements. Because of this, I wanted Joanna to get to the summit as badly as she wanted to get there. We've climbed together lots of times and WE needed this!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5LAahMEJLfKHOU5skCoHp81-LCMCVhptOMqzncdPIXQqHJaQNwNHaDBS6lU4FpwWWP07qJ1yewOQAILUnJfwIpUgkEfaO1o3VjvTfiwE3JWIf6vaZ_OWma3QnneEfSBHc8UlkLQ62Xnn/s1600/085%5B1%5D.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 247px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479808768247783842" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga5LAahMEJLfKHOU5skCoHp81-LCMCVhptOMqzncdPIXQqHJaQNwNHaDBS6lU4FpwWWP07qJ1yewOQAILUnJfwIpUgkEfaO1o3VjvTfiwE3JWIf6vaZ_OWma3QnneEfSBHc8UlkLQ62Xnn/s320/085%5B1%5D.JPG" /></a> Just a few more steps and we'd be there. I felt a tear beginning to form in my eye and I was glad I was wearing sunglasses. Right before the tear dropped I remembered how manly I am and the tear went away, sort of. I would also like to note that at 59 years of age, Joanna is the oldest chemeketan to achieve the 18 peak award. Three cheers for Joanna!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNjAXMQmxlhrd0uTPmXJKvAN_uWXcMIQ5vswd_HWJTCHH5vhBW7HK2PEdtai6pQISGPMlx8fQgPgJm0m4ZjOfthqrR7d-M7ZZhkXUccAyvLiNQ3NlxRsr91ynbTLNqEWbMfVeIPY5O140D/s1600/Shasta+2010+052.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 175px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479808762644964962" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNjAXMQmxlhrd0uTPmXJKvAN_uWXcMIQ5vswd_HWJTCHH5vhBW7HK2PEdtai6pQISGPMlx8fQgPgJm0m4ZjOfthqrR7d-M7ZZhkXUccAyvLiNQ3NlxRsr91ynbTLNqEWbMfVeIPY5O140D/s320/Shasta+2010+052.JPG" /></a> What's been lost in all of this is how well Stephen, Cathy and Chuck did on their first 14,000' mountain, how Bill, John and Joanna have managed to keep pushing the clock back. It's also been lost that Amy's just N and M Sister away from her own 18th peak award.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_gZj2lo4Van78_gfhEHwZUSbhTfNfRCqB6P_zG0YVHvNK32l6FffwIZ8Ry_1JH7B56xsp5hSJAHnQpr7d9NN384aAe6-kIcdUqfj2yAc9K6VkYq4g-1kEHUX_9WaroXGFgM75dHF7TrM/s1600/Shasta+2010+053.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479808753838986738" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_gZj2lo4Van78_gfhEHwZUSbhTfNfRCqB6P_zG0YVHvNK32l6FffwIZ8Ry_1JH7B56xsp5hSJAHnQpr7d9NN384aAe6-kIcdUqfj2yAc9K6VkYq4g-1kEHUX_9WaroXGFgM75dHF7TrM/s320/Shasta+2010+053.JPG" /></a>I smiled for this photo and I was so happy for the six first time summiters on this trip. It lasted for a few moments and then my headache came thundering back. It's been a long time since I felt that bad and I've never felt that badly on the mountain. I wasn't craving getting back to camp, I wanted to be on the couch. I whined to myself for a few more minutes and then I got over it.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeapkZk_EMN54ndEC5fgwMGwHk4DNHKsT4TX_j81QgmcSPzLI8S3Styk__KPTl5VGeCtZ2LA0kYW6y2psdIwAKwpgGeAec_yDWO1lcJjlW_uHCfWcuGSbxB1ig85ZvHZHz7jfd1LM1xpEr/s1600/099%5B1%5D.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479808745139700850" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeapkZk_EMN54ndEC5fgwMGwHk4DNHKsT4TX_j81QgmcSPzLI8S3Styk__KPTl5VGeCtZ2LA0kYW6y2psdIwAKwpgGeAec_yDWO1lcJjlW_uHCfWcuGSbxB1ig85ZvHZHz7jfd1LM1xpEr/s320/099%5B1%5D.JPG" /></a>All of the routes up Shasta take lots of work to get up. At 12,500', there are monkeys that jump on your back. The terrain doesn't variate and it's hard to monitor your progress up the mountain, it gets a little demoralizing. As we decended, we were grateful for the easy terrain. There wasn't anything to worry about.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6-4AnDvXbi-EQxrC6Pxv6jVYVgpSOYm80qxXc_02-HSR0B0uZty30L3Ah_GJtA7jW03q2a4mHgnZhj3R9V8zFuB_r5-TC0r53D8NUyZDYuYecbVqztRiJnknpWsqCD8h2bLpCLJyf-V8k/s1600/Shasta+2010+057.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479807570938456962" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6-4AnDvXbi-EQxrC6Pxv6jVYVgpSOYm80qxXc_02-HSR0B0uZty30L3Ah_GJtA7jW03q2a4mHgnZhj3R9V8zFuB_r5-TC0r53D8NUyZDYuYecbVqztRiJnknpWsqCD8h2bLpCLJyf-V8k/s320/Shasta+2010+057.JPG" /></a> I distinctly remember this picture and I was grateful that I had the privelage to be the leader of this climb. I had the opportunity to teach, encourage, share joy and because it was so difficult for me in my condition, I even had the pleasure of a stiff challenge.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEs0IQ6iLzG4onb6aWwYntQXZhAM_FRr_jnNd720ZdlAR5BJlzbgoNI1pGQ_S0sdO6EujXTmNKLcpTKuK283y3T5jKqx_Mb8-8yBAW2UzQwkbxS9jlgo7mGSrWKIH5NSiu6d-FaOBx_Y4Z/s1600/Shasta+2010+058.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479807564674151842" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEs0IQ6iLzG4onb6aWwYntQXZhAM_FRr_jnNd720ZdlAR5BJlzbgoNI1pGQ_S0sdO6EujXTmNKLcpTKuK283y3T5jKqx_Mb8-8yBAW2UzQwkbxS9jlgo7mGSrWKIH5NSiu6d-FaOBx_Y4Z/s320/Shasta+2010+058.JPG" /></a>This is a picture of a view that I hope to see for another decade. Burnside Bill in his wool knickers with the leather butt patches. Classic. Bill was very likely the strongest climber on summit day, I don't know where he came up with it, he was sucking wind on the approach. But would the wool knickers have too much friction for glissading?<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJGXt8dgVH_j5VLTDAiObaGz12Vtn2HVHac3CHD1oKX225YaVwvAdWspS7aT8JK4R-TSgaGfrx2FA2JdOtJTVtxzE_0Y2XXp0cJkRC4EYX74f0yIoHkjojxJXkrMCdXF2A8eMwOfE8ASU/s1600/Shasta+2010+060.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479807553354351666" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFJGXt8dgVH_j5VLTDAiObaGz12Vtn2HVHac3CHD1oKX225YaVwvAdWspS7aT8JK4R-TSgaGfrx2FA2JdOtJTVtxzE_0Y2XXp0cJkRC4EYX74f0yIoHkjojxJXkrMCdXF2A8eMwOfE8ASU/s320/Shasta+2010+060.JPG" /></a> We walked down the W Face until our crampons balled up too much and the glissade was on. Some people didn't want to scuff their $300 climbing pants so they walked. It was one of the better glissades I've done and I suspect I slid 2000' ft. I sprinted into my tent and I think I was asleep by the time the third person was back to camp; and life was good.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihzjfCkuDICq6qzFzDglCTFOlqFOFkVRi96Pina9Vzh8PucR0hpoyhVncKG5ASrUJ5kgLhDxbz6lWj55TWrUgiPN6zHO-zk-3bs-7BJ9d-olZSHcyZFX5VugNZVhcB7rPSR56EtMYzQLgg/s1600/112%5B2%5D.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5479807542877788978" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihzjfCkuDICq6qzFzDglCTFOlqFOFkVRi96Pina9Vzh8PucR0hpoyhVncKG5ASrUJ5kgLhDxbz6lWj55TWrUgiPN6zHO-zk-3bs-7BJ9d-olZSHcyZFX5VugNZVhcB7rPSR56EtMYzQLgg/s320/112%5B2%5D.JPG" /></a> We had dinner at camp and by the time we crawled into our tents it was hailing. Ten minutes later it was snowing and the visibility was down. We woke up to snow as as well. When it was time to pack up in the morning, the snow magically stopped and it was smooth sailing back to the car.</div><div></div><div>You'll often hear me say stuff like it's not about climbing its about friends or its not about the mountain its about the journey. Well I'll say this: every now and again, it is about the mountain and sometimes it is about the summit and yes, its always about the journey.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-21492488326685987862010-04-22T10:30:00.001-07:002010-04-22T11:29:49.929-07:00Hood April 16<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsdEJVao9SrqqC_ghjYrA8ztkIfUtO0mWHkujRxl660nMf3jjLZsdIPRLaYAhkJGTxAVp04xLjczY6xv3z0YpCqCKSv596x7t2xiFDXGv3ykDcOV80Kr8RKN3j6fMY7ea1OWnM8I_pUiTI/s1600/021.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463022624716876882" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsdEJVao9SrqqC_ghjYrA8ztkIfUtO0mWHkujRxl660nMf3jjLZsdIPRLaYAhkJGTxAVp04xLjczY6xv3z0YpCqCKSv596x7t2xiFDXGv3ykDcOV80Kr8RKN3j6fMY7ea1OWnM8I_pUiTI/s320/021.JPG" /></a> <div><div>I first want to thank all of the new students at climbschool who made this years class so much fun. I'm looking forward to climbing w/ all of you. But be warned, you may find yourself in this blog, for better or worse. Probably for worse.<br /></div><div>I wanted to give a special thanks to Steve Dougherty who put on another successful route finding school. Its a tremendous amount of work and a great service to the community and to the club. When you tie into a new rope this year, realize that route finding school is a major funding source for the club. Three cheers for Steve!</div><br /><div></div><div>Also, as much as it pains me to say it, Wild Bill also put on a great climb school this year, again. Everything went pretty smooth, aside from the wind shutting down the second long rappel. I've been trying to think of ways to blame this on Bill but I've come up dry. I think the school is pretty organized and its always amazing to me that it works out, when I consider those of us that do it.<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_QM0MdAfb2jmncguj2Fbyw-2nREFeEnDg0BM7yzkq5AnY2ZQ-Jo8M6T2Dq0D5ajyGRvbjMju9VOde5FVpko6KPliDvbXULXepag7bTHd5duKi6wJv7lVlFhaBDJaD1LuVr8AUzte5rjK/s1600/004.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 276px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 190px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463016410703365810" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjd_QM0MdAfb2jmncguj2Fbyw-2nREFeEnDg0BM7yzkq5AnY2ZQ-Jo8M6T2Dq0D5ajyGRvbjMju9VOde5FVpko6KPliDvbXULXepag7bTHd5duKi6wJv7lVlFhaBDJaD1LuVr8AUzte5rjK/s320/004.JPG" /></a> So lets face it, many of you took climbschool because you wanted to climb Mt Hood. Back in 2006, Hood was generally an easy walk up, the last few years its been more difficult and dangerous. With the shifting of the Hogsback (giant snow ridge in the caldera) you're forced to traverse to the old chute to the West or traverse East to the Pearly Gates. As of last Friday, the route is as easy as its been since 2006. I'd still give it an S1+ OR S2-.<br /></div><div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 270px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 192px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463016392982831266" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZWPHGx1FiSnHAfkp7LRznSkHrij_WniCfXhVPLxRI29FKHalajwIAZI8d2aHBn-44AEBuvfZuvx74u5ts7Xiwgq1HotiCoZqEVCDx6751IfZ48d_4Br4jJoHeIOH9VIe65mDAb34NzcT5/s320/005.JPG" /> <div>Andrew Trachsel (climb school last year) and I both ended up not working on Friday so we thought we'd have a look n see. The heavy snow from the previous week had been through several freeze thaw cycles but I was still concerned.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1i23ZbFzdZtyH4EaPX6zCvM4MY1DEZ46n8C9teI-x8hor0ACYj3XTwfMbBdleunRMbptouz2NirKrKuBMxp7oOwQ_mTNG7wqUsJDlho0f1VAX5mTVUzGy0JieID__uPC2C7iOglYprUzb/s1600/015.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 226px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 212px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463016387321168834" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1i23ZbFzdZtyH4EaPX6zCvM4MY1DEZ46n8C9teI-x8hor0ACYj3XTwfMbBdleunRMbptouz2NirKrKuBMxp7oOwQ_mTNG7wqUsJDlho0f1VAX5mTVUzGy0JieID__uPC2C7iOglYprUzb/s320/015.JPG" /></a> We ran into a friend/acquantance, Adam, at the Hogsback. Him and his friend were considering turning around. His friend wasn't feeling it so Adam tagged along w/ us. This is a pic of him in the slight variation Chute. We didn't traverse all of the way to the old chute because there was a weakness in the rhime ice towers that was very reasonable. By doing this, we also avoided the knife ridge. The conditions made for an easy climb. the snow was sturdy enough to hold body weight but soft enough that kicking steps wasn't too much work.<br /><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463021451424178834" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuX053J68f19I9uD0yukQqR_k26MWO7O8jCIUgJ0tvyuVJ6QYKLPdvTEajhU5WyHKP3bKJeq693Jd_hkXGbWZqveE3ZHecy-a-TWqTcRdGLESvnOfVc70JVTY8SRCIw6L04ec631pOrYGw/s320/012.JPG" /></div><div><br />We reached the summit five hours later which is pretty respectable considerring its early season and it was Andrews first time up. My general opinion on Mt Hood is that the South side can be fun but alot of the fun goes away when you have a big team and you're climbing the standard route on a spring weekend. You have to start earlier because you'll be going slower with a big team. In general, I'd prefer to climb Hood in the Winter with people I'm comfortable climbing with, then you can avoid using the rope and all of the stuff that comes with it. I've likely climbed with Andrew twenty times or so and thats how you build trust.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq5DUOzkmsMSPBunw8QcKrmoAeVcsPpJ2hW5xto_uH_YOR2dNePqN5qTvpiEHGVr-9Wuki8xBfwPbZL0bzsXudHU0ga6JZNfZo7v-ZOFs881bnbb2XskA657wBT1I1iAaca6ZvU0V23fL7/s1600/016.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463016159161260130" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq5DUOzkmsMSPBunw8QcKrmoAeVcsPpJ2hW5xto_uH_YOR2dNePqN5qTvpiEHGVr-9Wuki8xBfwPbZL0bzsXudHU0ga6JZNfZo7v-ZOFs881bnbb2XskA657wBT1I1iAaca6ZvU0V23fL7/s320/016.JPG" /></a> A few weeks ago, the two of us joined ellen and a small team to traverse around Mt Washington. Andrew was a little humbled by the conditioning required for big trips. He'd been training regularly and he was up to the task. We took several short breaks but didn't really ever stop for more than five minutes.</div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2xF7Pqf3LGleNEc10ENiulX6v-Ts6IDguNLMqWXb6Un2chaEG7RQB2w_CjeB6g8uKEi5YwVUOQgKktwi7ZvLNAKy2M4o1EYGyjiBUcv7kOnQp4onKEHV3qq5OyU_Nz49CKiUKwaEp-Xx2/s1600/017.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463016152038903762" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2xF7Pqf3LGleNEc10ENiulX6v-Ts6IDguNLMqWXb6Un2chaEG7RQB2w_CjeB6g8uKEi5YwVUOQgKktwi7ZvLNAKy2M4o1EYGyjiBUcv7kOnQp4onKEHV3qq5OyU_Nz49CKiUKwaEp-Xx2/s320/017.JPG" /></a> I've climbed Hood lots of times and sometimes I love it, sometimes I hate it, but usually I feel both emotions at the same time. The upper mountain was especially beautiful this time around and I had a hard time mustering up any of the hate that I love so much. There was almost no rock showing because there was sooo much snow. Only the steepest parts of the Steel Cliffs were bare. In fact, the Steel Cliffs look pretty enticing. Hmmm<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4P7TitcDXQJdunDbL-yXOOhqaqDHr_7bkghz1ekaqPcHR_gwPawrYTxPoJIrdTUw7xN6dEuH7T7VILoQ-e0wI5p0o-cijmxRvS0wD2uZwxHcqwqIb9gkJpka754Dvg80u8H8lGJBQS1Ln/s1600/018.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463016140437548594" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4P7TitcDXQJdunDbL-yXOOhqaqDHr_7bkghz1ekaqPcHR_gwPawrYTxPoJIrdTUw7xN6dEuH7T7VILoQ-e0wI5p0o-cijmxRvS0wD2uZwxHcqwqIb9gkJpka754Dvg80u8H8lGJBQS1Ln/s320/018.JPG" /></a> Because it was Andrew's first time up and Hood has been so unpredictable these last few years, I brought a second tool along, "just in case." Andrew used it on the decent but he didn't really need it. I just wanted to explain why it looks like the axe is in his wrong hand.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwvfK0E33JefdUVBu4xhTSpy-_IR60dU86WDSK8dKlTpFMJ8GxPIntVwlTmJeZKrIT-w6Xl2i3j7Gy4WUOueXck9YOqwNk7ogDmJW_l4Iqy5SutPEezH8hqEXociNZ4aV9x21K85I8FNCl/s1600/021.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463016128747875938" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwvfK0E33JefdUVBu4xhTSpy-_IR60dU86WDSK8dKlTpFMJ8GxPIntVwlTmJeZKrIT-w6Xl2i3j7Gy4WUOueXck9YOqwNk7ogDmJW_l4Iqy5SutPEezH8hqEXociNZ4aV9x21K85I8FNCl/s320/021.JPG" /></a> New students, don't be discouraged by Hood climbs not being offered to new students this year. Get some experience and I'll take you out next year. Just not on a spring weekend.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWUbLZj7SAQOZ1GTWV3x3T2p0DrStgQTM8Wz2T5Wsm-jJ3aThLAPepM_YuqF88iAaFTj5b6b04kO308m4Alw_kF2Lsu5jAHWnpYEuyiT-dqLs9CS7DSo7Tj5FrltZ9uNCxFdnOIiwNXvIP/s1600/003.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463016117920742674" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWUbLZj7SAQOZ1GTWV3x3T2p0DrStgQTM8Wz2T5Wsm-jJ3aThLAPepM_YuqF88iAaFTj5b6b04kO308m4Alw_kF2Lsu5jAHWnpYEuyiT-dqLs9CS7DSo7Tj5FrltZ9uNCxFdnOIiwNXvIP/s320/003.JPG" /></a> Lastly, I wanted to take this time to pimp my Mt Jefferson climb that will take place in June. It'll be an M2. I'm gonna be taking a small team up the W Rib or the Whitewater corkscrew route. I'll start putting together a team in a couple weeks. Let me know if you're interested.</div><div> </div><div>Have fun and climb safe. Looking forward to the start of the climb season (does it really ever end?) I'm also looking forward to sharing the rope with all of you new climbers. Now get out and climb! <div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-7852883972517917282010-01-22T11:24:00.001-08:002010-01-25T15:08:44.066-08:00S Oregon Volume 2<span style="font-size:180%;">Peregrine Traverse</span><br /><br />Before, I start rambling, I want to say that this is one of the funnest routes I've climbed in Oregon. Very good rock, longish (ten pitches), and little objective hazard. Its not overly difficult but it makes up for it in exposure.<br /><br />Now I'll start rambling. This is day two of our Southern Oregon trip. From the campground, the Peregrine Traverse was only about 20 miles as the crow flew. Figuring we were half an hour from our objective we woke up at a casual pace, had a sit down breakfast and then we started getting our day planned. We broke out the map and learned that we'd have a two hour drive! The only access road was around the mountain, along the river and through Tiller. We stopped for gas and I decided it was time to shed my pants and go to shorts. I looked over and the gas girl was watching me. I let her know I had shorts under my pants so don't be alarmed. She responded "Honey, I live in Tiller, nothing scares me." Let the adventure begin.<br /><br /><br /><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwcMzERSmuiZOHlty6-tUup72AsPJRmMZshvopVsVdSo7qagYORqJcXtd_54PejO2APfkJwwjo6LWpYJtxluIpJ0P-y81uOMxicMn76tum-ipGeT5G8MbOMR_GLTLLq3fkKbU86KoX3La_/s1600-h/DSCN1142.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429650592841701282" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwcMzERSmuiZOHlty6-tUup72AsPJRmMZshvopVsVdSo7qagYORqJcXtd_54PejO2APfkJwwjo6LWpYJtxluIpJ0P-y81uOMxicMn76tum-ipGeT5G8MbOMR_GLTLLq3fkKbU86KoX3La_/s320/DSCN1142.JPG" /></a>Arriving way too late (I know, I know) we finally found ourselves at the toe of the Peregrine. The route is ten or eleven pitches w/ several variations. Depending on your comfort level you can just take quick draws and clip the available bolts but most people will want a set of cams and a set of nets w/ some extra long runners. Some people solo the whole thing. I brought four nuts and three cams. That ended up being about perfect. Amy is still getting the hang of run out trad climbing so I wanted to give her some gear to practice with.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfHGMbJcHrMzVA9CElYkq6JFRosqC-BjjUidCbY4iiMulVJbAQ1BM7bx-Nzmw4FZ7kJ_X0kfragdBZfpBtmT8B1aZg82ougGXJhk7gRSnV9ips7UVx-sb19udsErptwNsDMUhGQTHrnhyphenhyphen/s1600-h/DSCN1200.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429650583456518770" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinfHGMbJcHrMzVA9CElYkq6JFRosqC-BjjUidCbY4iiMulVJbAQ1BM7bx-Nzmw4FZ7kJ_X0kfragdBZfpBtmT8B1aZg82ougGXJhk7gRSnV9ips7UVx-sb19udsErptwNsDMUhGQTHrnhyphenhyphen/s320/DSCN1200.JPG" /></a> We climbed in pairs, Amy and I; Matt and John. Both very cute couples. After their cuddle fest in the tent, I noticed a closeness in them;-) Amy lead the first pitch and didn't place a single peice of gear by the time she found the anchors. She's been hanging out w/ me too long. The above pic is the top of the second pitch. Amy set out to lead the 3rd pitch as she lead the odd numbered pitches. Matt joined me at the belay as he was leading even numbered pitches. When he arrived at the belay, he looked a bit shook up. It had been awhile since he's climbed and the exposure caugh him off guard. I just tried to give him room to puke. </p><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmO_4hHcACAQHTb-3SzY0I2_u_zaRuHRIxZNKLKgDGR40Xsu_sY59-bfJNlNaIeAO5MU3Bibl6Pn6Ck0beQzWpQSq-s8snQuxOWS_Cx5JQFxvhpCIPG_2bkcJ6PLb4a6khw-OhCZ-VA7NV/s1600-h/DSC06106.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429650580763404306" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmO_4hHcACAQHTb-3SzY0I2_u_zaRuHRIxZNKLKgDGR40Xsu_sY59-bfJNlNaIeAO5MU3Bibl6Pn6Ck0beQzWpQSq-s8snQuxOWS_Cx5JQFxvhpCIPG_2bkcJ6PLb4a6khw-OhCZ-VA7NV/s320/DSC06106.jpg" /></a> In this pick, you can see Amy belaying me as I traverse under the roof. The area below me is called the Sunbowl and I saw several sport routes. If you enlarge the pic, you can see the anchors below and to the left of me. At this point in the summer, I had done lots of climbing and I was immune to the exposure. It was a real treat to watch the other three get comfortable w/ it! I heard John say, "It doesn't have to be hard to be scary." How right he was. As John lead pitch three I called down to him to control his breathing, he was breathing like a Rhino. He shouted back, "Thanks Jess." Which sounded alot more like "Piss off Jess, mind your business!" Eight pitches to go and I was having a blast!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1H6u6F7Vryi3x7ov5FPFLy0wJLqDc9gdIAkoZntu70Wd-wx9yIlS0lnNYMd6YcrYFV-2LRDv-6oZJmyTolhYW09AiPONncSWZDP18SKaeLcsr7wUUThFD5fw_oF82k_ra3YywnbdE_GqY/s1600-h/DSCN1205.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429650570772418002" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1H6u6F7Vryi3x7ov5FPFLy0wJLqDc9gdIAkoZntu70Wd-wx9yIlS0lnNYMd6YcrYFV-2LRDv-6oZJmyTolhYW09AiPONncSWZDP18SKaeLcsr7wUUThFD5fw_oF82k_ra3YywnbdE_GqY/s320/DSCN1205.JPG" /></a>I lead pitch four and I managed to sneak in a variation on the team. According to the route discription, you could gain the ridge but that looked too easy. The variation shown in the pic above had a couple of bolts but there was also a key cam placement at the beginning of the pitch that would keep your second from taking a hair raising, elbow grinding swing. Knowing that I had intentionally lead us astray, I had Amy tie in at the half way point of our rope. She left the tail end of our rope at the belay for Matt to tie in. We could than top rope belay him on our rope and he could lead his and John's rope. He could have managed on his own but I saw no reason to get him blue behind the gills again. This pitch had lots of exposure to go w/ the new Crux Pitch of the route.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH7Xpi8OF5oZq0wVkzjL0mRM7bE-JnKvXOTt5d8okfu-BXWizWBlHWhqU2WpTNCC2LxQlkwnY97nM0NFX6mOz5mK30cdzbgXYLpPWP7rB9OgC48xLn6HzBV9l5k4IZIkFFFhFf9Gwe_PnS/s1600-h/DSCN1209.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429650562043797826" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH7Xpi8OF5oZq0wVkzjL0mRM7bE-JnKvXOTt5d8okfu-BXWizWBlHWhqU2WpTNCC2LxQlkwnY97nM0NFX6mOz5mK30cdzbgXYLpPWP7rB9OgC48xLn6HzBV9l5k4IZIkFFFhFf9Gwe_PnS/s320/DSCN1209.JPG" /></a> In this self pic, you can see that John is thinking that this looks harder than it was supposed to be. Oops, my bad. I felt bad for a second but I forgave myself. They all had TR's so what's the problem? Besides, I don't believe in Kharma.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n2my5cmkpS5qJyEGd4MRUz7ZpkvJyFBUBi663oyr2IRaVh5V0K3lnEs_zLjmqYS-Za8mP6mO1lSeLd8-v5705iCljYEGPdPMmP22jcXZKBnWvA4GuALkhyphenhyphenTxrHZnEYeTWWOjQUNGIspn/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+035.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429649929099042738" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n2my5cmkpS5qJyEGd4MRUz7ZpkvJyFBUBi663oyr2IRaVh5V0K3lnEs_zLjmqYS-Za8mP6mO1lSeLd8-v5705iCljYEGPdPMmP22jcXZKBnWvA4GuALkhyphenhyphenTxrHZnEYeTWWOjQUNGIspn/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+035.JPG" /></a> Here, Matt tops out on the fourth pitch and he was no worse for the wear. The belay was a bit snug for three so I built myself a separate belay so there would be room for Amy to belay Matt up. Plus, I wanted to be out of swinging distance in the event that they didn't have the same sense of humor that I do. It's hard to tell if Matt's hitch hiking or hanging loose. Maybe both?<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIqsE4tKUZcpFd-ikHK4RNrQNrpGpiZRkZ3eEcI8kY3Ko0RRwGoN2VTN2e_9Ik_GWxDGYJyn1DpipHM9shgxl-m9_nvHU5MH_7J1zFkJW90X2bJ3iXWKrQADbHDmW6SOdh7s0sQasxMUK8/s1600-h/DSC06117.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429649920440902098" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIqsE4tKUZcpFd-ikHK4RNrQNrpGpiZRkZ3eEcI8kY3Ko0RRwGoN2VTN2e_9Ik_GWxDGYJyn1DpipHM9shgxl-m9_nvHU5MH_7J1zFkJW90X2bJ3iXWKrQADbHDmW6SOdh7s0sQasxMUK8/s320/DSC06117.jpg" /></a> Amy lead out on pitch 5 and there was room for Matt and John at the proper belay. If you've climbed w/ me you'll know that I like lots of slack in the belay. I hate feeling tension on my harness, it screws up my balance and my head space. It was hilarious hearing John shout up "take rope," and than watch Matt pull in 6 inches of slack. John too arrived no worse for the wear and everybody was feeling giddy about the route quality and the accomplishment of climbing the variation. (BTW, I think climbing w/ a tight top rope is a bad idea, it gives you mental comfort you don't get when you're on lead. It makes lead climbing that much harder) There's certainly a time and a place however.<br /><div><br /><div><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 238px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 319px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429649362241682946" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwwAR20gHtbjXgHDui37MYKgYqvqnbpAcEFqGH3Ru17wWNvr3jJ5rCk1brk8PqXrYh9Ecog7Tv7-LxaxVUv97Lkast405zBeh1elW0UlSKS2bZ1KcfdkyyAZPTcEfanZxkHk1pzf4yPJxp/s320/070.JPG" /></div><div>From my makeshift belay, I took this pic of Amy belaying Matt up the variation. Do you remember what I said about Kharma? While taking this pic, I leaned against a non-locker that was holding my rock shoes to my harness, my right rock shoe fell. It was slow motion. I had betrayed one of the cardinal rules of climbing, don't drop stuff. If it would have been a carabiner that would have been one thing but my shoe! I tested climbing barefoot but the rock was too gritty and I'd have been bleeding in one pitch. Fortunately, we carried approach shoes for the hike down.<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFtaJO0KERf4VtEgxWXf7-SPRilNpoSXCadC1zn1cGbV8wKIgORRWREzEez6gFFDuEbNaKrlN_j4a_fUxALDHzGmIJ6eb4IdLxFwjZz0M6v7JTfxpQ40Em_mrCCWSi21NtsF1DlSPVlzvQ/s1600-h/DSCN1211.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429649900154635554" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFtaJO0KERf4VtEgxWXf7-SPRilNpoSXCadC1zn1cGbV8wKIgORRWREzEez6gFFDuEbNaKrlN_j4a_fUxALDHzGmIJ6eb4IdLxFwjZz0M6v7JTfxpQ40Em_mrCCWSi21NtsF1DlSPVlzvQ/s320/DSCN1211.JPG" /></a>This magnificent picture shows the belay before the 5th pitch. On the left edge of the rock, you can see Matt lounging his brains out. We've all heard North Face's moto "never stop exploring." Matt's new motto, "never stop relaxing."<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ8nmGWjbo1_qyDBHyTI7_4Iy9BSl8bxHC4SnnnEeLVDpkFYbrKWCWQT-r65dp4idrSYVSwzXh-Y2BKTPYM9WzqW13IYs2DmVrgIQZe3UgeZ59vUBTSNh_m6ngsdT0eR1kONVRWcz6adhf/s1600-h/DSCN1225.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429649895111043442" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ8nmGWjbo1_qyDBHyTI7_4Iy9BSl8bxHC4SnnnEeLVDpkFYbrKWCWQT-r65dp4idrSYVSwzXh-Y2BKTPYM9WzqW13IYs2DmVrgIQZe3UgeZ59vUBTSNh_m6ngsdT0eR1kONVRWcz6adhf/s320/DSCN1225.JPG" /></a>John and Amy both lead pitch 5, it was likely the only dangerous pitch on the route. A fall after the traverse Matt is working in the picture above would be catastrophic. There's no gear placements but the climbing is low 5th class. This section was about as difficult as Mt Washington. From Matt to the anchor where this pic was taken, you get one decent cam placement. Both of them handled the lead well and it was a non issue, except for the pucker factor.<br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGoJElhGxLPfMEtGxofETOVKW_qR_VwLU3pvMhUoWNaGCjFDAA141p4-WanolXoJwC10k7fpdvQKz21DcyTYygRIoeBAQBmECM1Tde79OwKtbzK7_9czwM_bQ6oSPhjvkm3FztRuOtcMN/s1600-h/DSC06123.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429649350181537362" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicGoJElhGxLPfMEtGxofETOVKW_qR_VwLU3pvMhUoWNaGCjFDAA141p4-WanolXoJwC10k7fpdvQKz21DcyTYygRIoeBAQBmECM1Tde79OwKtbzK7_9czwM_bQ6oSPhjvkm3FztRuOtcMN/s320/DSC06123.jpg" /></a> In this pic you can see me putting on my lone rock shoe. Both teams carried one small pack that the second would carry, this left the leader packless. This is a strategy I'm going to try to adopt on big one day routes. Hopefully the one shoe strategy died at the conclusion of this route.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx9VE__d4ZYz-PKi7p3QcmRC2uaeJ8XYG-CrVi6-rUdbZLufShJi7NRfEkZJ35vekjnlXbzjx8yr05SWR4X5I7K63Uk2h2K4Z6sT7h9c2EDJ4_SNKVgrI4eb1aOuHVdm8P8t4KHrZ2kSrQ/s1600-h/DSC06130.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 223px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429649339159725250" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx9VE__d4ZYz-PKi7p3QcmRC2uaeJ8XYG-CrVi6-rUdbZLufShJi7NRfEkZJ35vekjnlXbzjx8yr05SWR4X5I7K63Uk2h2K4Z6sT7h9c2EDJ4_SNKVgrI4eb1aOuHVdm8P8t4KHrZ2kSrQ/s320/DSC06130.jpg" /></a> I had the good fortune of losing my right rock shoe. The left footholds in this dihedral were small. My right approach shoe frictioned/smeared fine, just a little disconcerting. Fortunately, I practice climbing in sneakers often. If I have a top rope on 5.7 and under, I generally use my approach shoes for practice. Many N Cascade routes have one short pitch of mid fifth rock that you can struggle through in approach shoes. Then you don't have to carry boots, and rock shoes.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhggUptppDx5ZwUPDqLV03onm2ADLZfhemW7VgqZzxMnhXAu9WQ1j2PvK2W90OPahqZyaBKhrjLmSM5ncrr-kvoGMCmwN8470r8ypuD-2eQQbc0emUHe7vVb4VzpywEIcm00t5wOCQp-wPn/s1600-h/DSC06134.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429649329305867586" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhggUptppDx5ZwUPDqLV03onm2ADLZfhemW7VgqZzxMnhXAu9WQ1j2PvK2W90OPahqZyaBKhrjLmSM5ncrr-kvoGMCmwN8470r8ypuD-2eQQbc0emUHe7vVb4VzpywEIcm00t5wOCQp-wPn/s320/DSC06134.jpg" /></a>Matt took this pic while lounging at the tree belay. You can see me leading pitch 6 while Big John and Amy are at the belay. If Matt would have paid more attention to me and less time lounging, he might have saved himself some trouble. More on that in a bit.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpMiicPpIu6wuyN5ryCqiAKt3vRZFHODs2VOyWBr9qDuYXOoVLXZcAyhHhwF2UHFVGYFpwhFMHlHagPZUWPDsoAONYmCtJFhwWHexbyikrZ2MkRJhXc0DiIlrkd29m38_rseKbvDeNFwc/s1600-h/DSC06142.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429649317792631698" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpMiicPpIu6wuyN5ryCqiAKt3vRZFHODs2VOyWBr9qDuYXOoVLXZcAyhHhwF2UHFVGYFpwhFMHlHagPZUWPDsoAONYmCtJFhwWHexbyikrZ2MkRJhXc0DiIlrkd29m38_rseKbvDeNFwc/s320/DSC06142.jpg" /></a> I've got to hand it to John and Matt. Matt has been on the sidelines. John can climb rock pretty well but he's also been sidelined by a funky elbow. Both managed their leads very well. In this pick you can see Amy climb up the beautiful arrette, me belaying and John prepping to belay Matt over (it almost looks like John is getting ready to go number 2?). It was intimidating from far but it was easier up close. Isn't that always the case?<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinbZ3IgM1cmqCYGev3qH8Cg2_QXErGVBSD7CmBucZD_CJZRWtiZUsSYbK1U7uSMap8BZgHixTnjVZJahSTMkh4XiL8ik4MPp53xdwH6zKsohx1NMQvYFAEUK_e7eIy9q5F3a-aaYy2xHZb/s1600-h/DSCN1217.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429648637281470098" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinbZ3IgM1cmqCYGev3qH8Cg2_QXErGVBSD7CmBucZD_CJZRWtiZUsSYbK1U7uSMap8BZgHixTnjVZJahSTMkh4XiL8ik4MPp53xdwH6zKsohx1NMQvYFAEUK_e7eIy9q5F3a-aaYy2xHZb/s320/DSCN1217.JPG" /></a> While Matt and I thought we were on belay, John and Amy were in the middle of a photo shoot. Atleast Amy's rope management was very good for a crowded belay.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwsQJ-9ZCI5gH7KFYhq9UYhfe4ewwilml1vWeQwJkCwA4hzWuZw3UH27C7uCUpuhVkD6u8cE6phEy7gogJ04XcBkLq9aq5WiQ30TT9S2XbOiu2mSx_dzKUX5Qg0plvBsP3UxYywgEQegV4/s1600-h/DSC06148.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429648634688763138" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwsQJ-9ZCI5gH7KFYhq9UYhfe4ewwilml1vWeQwJkCwA4hzWuZw3UH27C7uCUpuhVkD6u8cE6phEy7gogJ04XcBkLq9aq5WiQ30TT9S2XbOiu2mSx_dzKUX5Qg0plvBsP3UxYywgEQegV4/s320/DSC06148.jpg" /></a> On belay guys? Hey guys, on Belay? "Hold on, we're trying to figure out the timer on the camera." I have to admit, this is an awesome shot. So how did it get dark you ask? Matt had a variation of his own up his sleeve. John called it the mossy variation. I basically followed the ridge up to the belay. Matt got bored w/ the easy climbing (or he got lost) and decided to head out onto the mossy face. He got some gear behind some moss and continued up the face. Gaining the ridge, he had passed the belay. When John got to the belay, he looked like he almost became a ghost.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGOKlKm_TnLUsgclPmeEQHBWmoV2yBPt4OqoYG7kJx9sh-m61jRJ9ZI9f5j7t-IcYZUmxiKhH8WeTGOQgBfHibD7i-nXbfpnFcp71HEYI-wgngJ4owrs4hRaxLpozdhsClaweHv2Z9MGi/s1600-h/DSC06149.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429648626632761234" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimGOKlKm_TnLUsgclPmeEQHBWmoV2yBPt4OqoYG7kJx9sh-m61jRJ9ZI9f5j7t-IcYZUmxiKhH8WeTGOQgBfHibD7i-nXbfpnFcp71HEYI-wgngJ4owrs4hRaxLpozdhsClaweHv2Z9MGi/s320/DSC06149.jpg" /></a> They kissed and made up. I love this picture. We were having an incredible time. Though we were at the summit, there were still several traversing pitches and a rappel to get back to terra firma.<br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgc12HM4H1Fsgpt1m1Rq2SiGDER-DVWtW2Vv7eYXf-uTcPFWgevbM_T8eSzBr5zA3vMq_FAaRBbWUpWV4XRAecAoWKXlCXb1_1uNt0OIV4dORKCNFI94veFnH12Yo6iExX6-nKWOZYzOQ/s1600-h/DSC06150.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429648605309505378" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJgc12HM4H1Fsgpt1m1Rq2SiGDER-DVWtW2Vv7eYXf-uTcPFWgevbM_T8eSzBr5zA3vMq_FAaRBbWUpWV4XRAecAoWKXlCXb1_1uNt0OIV4dORKCNFI94veFnH12Yo6iExX6-nKWOZYzOQ/s320/DSC06150.jpg" /></a>From the summit, you can see the lookout. It made you feel like you're home free. I've been on too many climbs where you're racing the sunset and you almost win. I could hear the other three joking while I was trying to coax them into continuing on. I get bossy. In retrospect, I was just uptight cause I wanted to go find my shoe! As it turned out, I scoured the burnt up forest but was unable to track it down by head lamp. I'll get it in the spring.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpH7iWiVRl9FidcGR_PmQKx_icj2y1ooI4qBRJICmLFBjlOiLiAJIaZsj92DWsXVDiFaj6H94uoJhwfaCC6hSmuBl2cnLuTfO-gXPoU3uua3Qs0fQUX_QxuzCI0_JcFMC6La8-Ut35hmfn/s1600-h/DSC06155.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429647932620006706" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpH7iWiVRl9FidcGR_PmQKx_icj2y1ooI4qBRJICmLFBjlOiLiAJIaZsj92DWsXVDiFaj6H94uoJhwfaCC6hSmuBl2cnLuTfO-gXPoU3uua3Qs0fQUX_QxuzCI0_JcFMC6La8-Ut35hmfn/s320/DSC06155.jpg" /></a> There were two pitches of down climbing/ traversing. You leave the rocky ridge but end up descending back onto treed ledges. I began climbing the final pitch w/out a head lamp and I couldn't see a thing. Its good practice, assuming you don't fall and smash yourself up. The last pitch is a chimney and I was trying to face climb it. As soon as the groove opened up enough to stuff myself inside, the climbing was easy. I looked down and John looks up to me and says "Chimney Climbing for Idiots." Exactly!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVRNkwbd9XvmBn1oDYsBcEEDHQbQ2jZxSZUr1FjIpKZiIw4vVm87do74V-lAh1XU8S9Nq07-2DIWZQSb-HxW8jejwnVuUnmirxqCd3Lsr1dUrGYV2A-PWusonTwy5w17CXFjQeuhS3YMWk/s1600-h/DSCN1240.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429647916812608514" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVRNkwbd9XvmBn1oDYsBcEEDHQbQ2jZxSZUr1FjIpKZiIw4vVm87do74V-lAh1XU8S9Nq07-2DIWZQSb-HxW8jejwnVuUnmirxqCd3Lsr1dUrGYV2A-PWusonTwy5w17CXFjQeuhS3YMWk/s320/DSCN1240.JPG" /></a> This is the view up the chimney. Along the route, I had left a few peices of gear in for Matt and John w/ super long slings that would allow them to clip the protection before crux moves. Several spots you have to do the move before you get the security of placing gear. They didn't ask this or need this but it felt like the thing to do since they hadn't been doing much lead climbing as of late. On the last pitch, all I had left was my yellow cam. I didn't want to wait for them so I headed up w/out reloading my rack. I was able to find a place to fiddle in the lone cam 2/3rds of the way up the chimney. Along the summit ridge there were fins that acted as pro.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrdmOwrSPk0h6anVFljd6oo0q2_uFgRLCNLQhlvjedLmdHuhQExfuCDBva05a3WHjmtZa-FMdN9zHqg_RSgjfAbs-u6IV-vZAJEd31WbsR8kr748Q9UJ0alJHPJBOGQMVt4Wx2j6uluC2u/s1600-h/DSCN1242.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429647914384784770" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrdmOwrSPk0h6anVFljd6oo0q2_uFgRLCNLQhlvjedLmdHuhQExfuCDBva05a3WHjmtZa-FMdN9zHqg_RSgjfAbs-u6IV-vZAJEd31WbsR8kr748Q9UJ0alJHPJBOGQMVt4Wx2j6uluC2u/s320/DSCN1242.JPG" /></a> I got to the final anchors and put Amy on belay. I was a bit anxious because to get down from the final anchor, you had to rappel to a magical tree ledge that allowed you to walk off. By this time it was pitch black. Half way down the rappel, I found the ledge and Amy soon joined me. I scouted the rest of the way while we waited for Matt and John. It looked like John was on rappel and I expected them any minute. The rappel was real awkward, the anchors were a few feet below the top of the ledge. I heard some heated discussion, not arguing but just loud talking. Then I heard a bunch of laughing, then more loud talking. They eventually laughed their way down, just a lovers spat. We'll never know what they were doing and they're sticking to the don't ask, don't tell thing.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfvE0Dz-DqePqt4EkMaTPZoNynl0_d2hKw1ORf8E3ppSXAbarrDmBNeU1WjC9HueFcNfczwFuRSbUAvxJC-X5vrZ9DNqc591jxLzMzuek6g4WM5QWbUOwo-lECbG0eYoTo9p9ptq3GuO_I/s1600-h/DSCN1247.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429647906812303202" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfvE0Dz-DqePqt4EkMaTPZoNynl0_d2hKw1ORf8E3ppSXAbarrDmBNeU1WjC9HueFcNfczwFuRSbUAvxJC-X5vrZ9DNqc591jxLzMzuek6g4WM5QWbUOwo-lECbG0eYoTo9p9ptq3GuO_I/s320/DSCN1247.JPG" /></a>Matt showing us that he's still got it! (and that he likes short shorts!)<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSQhHMcl7bm2WhkgoJhQpPHos2Pm7hVvFV2nZtIpwztJfuXDU6tn5BdEvcYrY_dNKKXl6cuVOSbAIba0GCuWZLOxOwTy_pikPpgQjIiwrnlP2uphjs46heZ94UX20S6-dfeX03DNHBdrX/s1600-h/DSCN1248.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429647900820910386" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlSQhHMcl7bm2WhkgoJhQpPHos2Pm7hVvFV2nZtIpwztJfuXDU6tn5BdEvcYrY_dNKKXl6cuVOSbAIba0GCuWZLOxOwTy_pikPpgQjIiwrnlP2uphjs46heZ94UX20S6-dfeX03DNHBdrX/s320/DSCN1248.JPG" /></a> John also believes that you're never too old to be an idiot. Not even at 48! I always feel like the route I just finished is my favorite trip. As I type this, looking out the window at the rain, it's easy to remember this beautiful summer day as the best of the year. Maybe it's because, a day with Amy and two of my good friends is all it takes to make me happy, maybe cause it was good to get out w/ Matt. Maybe it's because we expected little adventure from a sport/mixed route and got alot. Sometimes things happen in life and you wonder why me? This is the opposite of those days. </div><div></div><div>Two days later, we headed out on our well documented Enchantment trip w/ the Wild One.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-83809604764534992352010-01-22T11:08:00.000-08:002010-01-25T12:49:02.199-08:00S. Oregon Volume 1<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8cmxbQxSK6l8-DQfwcewZ77sWeMFce4uvKvqqaQ5GdTIQB9iS2yzjY4a1xTlnvoUPWxKYvB93SnPe0F5suwOuqDRpkTh97-w6GpnCfLC_oaVf_QeCNeXjtnTG6_Nnym6Y8CJEPB8rLIGE/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+001.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429646223162650130" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8cmxbQxSK6l8-DQfwcewZ77sWeMFce4uvKvqqaQ5GdTIQB9iS2yzjY4a1xTlnvoUPWxKYvB93SnPe0F5suwOuqDRpkTh97-w6GpnCfLC_oaVf_QeCNeXjtnTG6_Nnym6Y8CJEPB8rLIGE/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+001.JPG" /></a> As many of you know, Matt VanCampen has been on the climbing sidelines these last couple of years. He's got himself hitched and now he's a dad. Obviously, climbing takes a distant back seat. It sounds like his life is overall better, but its certainly different. No more 12 summit summers.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYeDT6QKvvmOJIE6Sx7D_hrT9RTHk9u0VfmHpToxL9J4PuUfh0Hneh_iikj3s3Hz31KGfLxhi5yZ1vrxUTuKo_7i-UXO0AJ8Tqc1SIFlFQ72viiyZM2UAkCWXPwGfcFlFxsRUdsVFqDbRq/s1600-h/066.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429646212159616418" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYeDT6QKvvmOJIE6Sx7D_hrT9RTHk9u0VfmHpToxL9J4PuUfh0Hneh_iikj3s3Hz31KGfLxhi5yZ1vrxUTuKo_7i-UXO0AJ8Tqc1SIFlFQ72viiyZM2UAkCWXPwGfcFlFxsRUdsVFqDbRq/s320/066.JPG" /></a>Matt carved out a few days off in a row so Big John made plans for Amy and Myself to join him and Matt in the Olympics for some Alpine Rock. The weather went to crap. Not willing to go down w/out a fight, John found some stones of interest in Southern Oregon. The trip definetly had a consolation feel to it but w/ Matt onboard, none of us were jumping ship.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsh725yKh8mjPiz1P7qo6fe9fAR0jcKLkOwMXYXu9hju2jvtk6KRIAUT1DcsIIMhj_ifaLk1og5SrsVRDyX07oTyEzjDuH-t-V0aAX1pmrCSiQnrAHPnewTI-3R9g80Y-0VbtajwYhcATL/s1600-h/064.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429646205935887922" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsh725yKh8mjPiz1P7qo6fe9fAR0jcKLkOwMXYXu9hju2jvtk6KRIAUT1DcsIIMhj_ifaLk1og5SrsVRDyX07oTyEzjDuH-t-V0aAX1pmrCSiQnrAHPnewTI-3R9g80Y-0VbtajwYhcATL/s320/064.JPG" /></a> We started the trip along the Umpqua at the Rabbit Ears. After the grueling 4 minute hike, we could see our objectives. They were certainly more impressive in person than on summit post. I didn't know we had stuff like this in Oregon. The trip was losing its consolation feel already.<br /><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEIBT47rPL7WSlCkX0aaBrVebZdWDcKluiXcAom4hFtZBJ47_WR40yOV8GdzViTU7WS9TNDWNDiYF-QnKYY41L9TW4Y6HqkR2HPM6mbA6D3BMiG1WrQJXrkLAkZ8E4Wcnuf7fhlgtT2uoW/s1600-h/DSCN1176.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645840294155954" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEIBT47rPL7WSlCkX0aaBrVebZdWDcKluiXcAom4hFtZBJ47_WR40yOV8GdzViTU7WS9TNDWNDiYF-QnKYY41L9TW4Y6HqkR2HPM6mbA6D3BMiG1WrQJXrkLAkZ8E4Wcnuf7fhlgtT2uoW/s320/DSCN1176.JPG" /></a> The gigantic walls lacked good crack systems but somebody is putting up some face routes (aka bolted routes) that I'll have go back for. The East ear has a more climbing and the W ear has more scrambling. Both are super fun.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrlPMKhzU2ejF5b7vLuLUxW3lo2PVrDcma_fnevStGcplEFolmSgfRhV929r3RZXrfmajfsj-_qlZq7NTPbBAuCnJK6ZOnUZ1BkRwvRrjw6su58He-sBiGmPMzQHz6ODOPbhosBxe7nVJ/s1600-h/DSCN1172.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645832184350946" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihrlPMKhzU2ejF5b7vLuLUxW3lo2PVrDcma_fnevStGcplEFolmSgfRhV929r3RZXrfmajfsj-_qlZq7NTPbBAuCnJK6ZOnUZ1BkRwvRrjw6su58He-sBiGmPMzQHz6ODOPbhosBxe7nVJ/s320/DSCN1172.JPG" /></a> The two ears are separated by a gully w/ a ridgeback in the middle. We scrambled the gully that went at 4th class w/ a couple low 5th steps. It was incredibly relaxing w/ no need to rush anything. We had all day.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgynrypr3R6JfSKaDRdsH3LQwhZPP2jFZbj97HjD-kGQ0R3ttYeCczroW8GlDW6K7EJXjOUIPWueLgTgGZKtxcDxTNgvMmQCj_HrEHm4yVxtraH198eamqxaGb3bfa8Aa1zLAS5KZb71cKe/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+004.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645821537019250" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgynrypr3R6JfSKaDRdsH3LQwhZPP2jFZbj97HjD-kGQ0R3ttYeCczroW8GlDW6K7EJXjOUIPWueLgTgGZKtxcDxTNgvMmQCj_HrEHm4yVxtraH198eamqxaGb3bfa8Aa1zLAS5KZb71cKe/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+004.JPG" /></a> You can see in the above pic how safety conscious I am and how wreckless John and Matt are. I've got my helmet and four points of contact. John has his "soft" helmet and Matt used his skin and sunglasses:-)<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ3XdR9ZKCH_nqzDeUIJVS2dC4OuypY_NbSXG7wlDHhQCvypFPQuKA-u_w4wP_8swdwXIsyI7T9RiI6vDctDc-SAVQDskr1nu_Bs_mFmmutDsH2aO-iJik0tgjw5IV4l9gegPDV-YWdFul/s1600-h/DSCN1117.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645813934856818" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ3XdR9ZKCH_nqzDeUIJVS2dC4OuypY_NbSXG7wlDHhQCvypFPQuKA-u_w4wP_8swdwXIsyI7T9RiI6vDctDc-SAVQDskr1nu_Bs_mFmmutDsH2aO-iJik0tgjw5IV4l9gegPDV-YWdFul/s320/DSCN1117.JPG" /></a> We could see a couple different ways the E Ear would go. The route discriptions are pretty vague. Amy drew the first lead. The gear isn't obvious and she had to be creative to get peices in but she did a great job. I was proud of her, when your leading on gear and trying to decipher your route at the same time, it adds some challenge. She did fine. In the pic above, you can see me belaying her from a nice rock bench. We decided to use fixed lines as opposed to climbing in teams of two. We had all day.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX-Ice6Dva4iu7Rwssk_uh1zCPRbmcB-X7KTucZT37Zfex58-OIiUNEWfnAUcPW43GbONwRypKHyaC9R1_lygqbHnDHl0OQNN_QOFx1vJCKusYFm432B0RvcvNIkWqY3p20XVgJZD0JWaA/s1600-h/059.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645806075480178" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX-Ice6Dva4iu7Rwssk_uh1zCPRbmcB-X7KTucZT37Zfex58-OIiUNEWfnAUcPW43GbONwRypKHyaC9R1_lygqbHnDHl0OQNN_QOFx1vJCKusYFm432B0RvcvNIkWqY3p20XVgJZD0JWaA/s320/059.JPG" /></a>As I mentioned earlier, Matt hasn't climbed in a while and you can see how nervous he was. It was a pleasure to watch him soak in the silence.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmAEq8pSASK3QmmNTWAtGGdWTIJJqskPgavAq3PuIdHai-god5buwDR6dHoDGa2non9jraCwTMFFzV3o43BIAXpbBkoVivdu0WeViVnIwHLDIUaidqGDNOXJv9O_ZnZizJf-foenJ5ax65/s1600-h/061.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645263240232146" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmAEq8pSASK3QmmNTWAtGGdWTIJJqskPgavAq3PuIdHai-god5buwDR6dHoDGa2non9jraCwTMFFzV3o43BIAXpbBkoVivdu0WeViVnIwHLDIUaidqGDNOXJv9O_ZnZizJf-foenJ5ax65/s320/061.JPG" /></a> Amy built the anchor and fixed the pitch. The rest of us followed on prussiks. The rock quality was good overall but like I said, the gear wasn't obvious. Amy still managed three great peices for the anchor.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoVyhEIcQwzHf5nhN4EHmE_7q3nBCWZfJSKxVDdhTpDJwdQJk7leI-ZO2DNoiLqp3J832gX90BC_wX8rvp8Ggha6wFJAIyagemhtaiB3uW1G3ZNxyVYp3bgIwQdgtGSh0JuRhiHttO9PPr/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+013.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645254652003218" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoVyhEIcQwzHf5nhN4EHmE_7q3nBCWZfJSKxVDdhTpDJwdQJk7leI-ZO2DNoiLqp3J832gX90BC_wX8rvp8Ggha6wFJAIyagemhtaiB3uW1G3ZNxyVYp3bgIwQdgtGSh0JuRhiHttO9PPr/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+013.JPG" /></a>John had pitch 2. It was a mostly traversing pitch w/ more, less than obvious gear placements. I got lucky taking this pic. First bit of luck, John was looking away from camera and second, there was this magnificent eagle flying overhead:-) Its amazing I have any friends at all.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFLbBH0ceK-wYc7apNpR6pxjs05u-MMGd97GpQ5DYfyElDVRA9dbFivi0DVKcdqKvhv4ZX0YvUZ-qELJaFyzbg18wyMvhmhUNIv7oegEjTG9zutqTLT0OXDsDhYFrB0J9TGmJdEgNZVqDz/s1600-h/DSCN1131.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645245294663730" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFLbBH0ceK-wYc7apNpR6pxjs05u-MMGd97GpQ5DYfyElDVRA9dbFivi0DVKcdqKvhv4ZX0YvUZ-qELJaFyzbg18wyMvhmhUNIv7oegEjTG9zutqTLT0OXDsDhYFrB0J9TGmJdEgNZVqDz/s320/DSCN1131.JPG" /></a> John called off belay and the rest of us followed the traverse. We climbed ropeless to the beautiful summit where we soaked up as much skin cancer as we could. This trip would go great w Thielsen climbs. It would certainly make the drive more worthwhile. W/ this in mind, we scouted for good rap stations for getting teams of Chemeketans down from the summit.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD72jNlrfaR9K4SyHrz7DTeBZ-P3sOcnyKVTYExvIqsgzRrJV7NdTD7RJtXxYPO2d9YHyamoznsBHj1WCO9x_N3hB9gqBGa5reoM4i6IylaS8381rBTgWYE8AYNDi5IFuxd1w_BpRyLMm1/s1600-h/DSCN1127.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645239282310962" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD72jNlrfaR9K4SyHrz7DTeBZ-P3sOcnyKVTYExvIqsgzRrJV7NdTD7RJtXxYPO2d9YHyamoznsBHj1WCO9x_N3hB9gqBGa5reoM4i6IylaS8381rBTgWYE8AYNDi5IFuxd1w_BpRyLMm1/s320/DSCN1127.JPG" /></a> We found a fixed station that was the second most scary rappel I've seen to date. It looked like there were two coat hanger hooks sticking out of sleeves that were drilled into the rock. I could bend the hooks w/ my hand. I would trust a bubble gum anchor more. I didn't see a pile of bones at the bottom so I guess it worked at least once. Or maybe the coyotes ran off w/ the bones.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSLxuBOQzmItnYwvgeZ6lUDIhGqtcc9Ta0wR-61RYyJrmhUeuSoxRwifvoxSsp8ZFKGglz16RVVGTfBebVOh54V32gZmb82BPsk7bgb41K_CntZukZG2eQ3p7kH0-5-Tucqv80PLRgnuX/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+021.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429645225142812290" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguSLxuBOQzmItnYwvgeZ6lUDIhGqtcc9Ta0wR-61RYyJrmhUeuSoxRwifvoxSsp8ZFKGglz16RVVGTfBebVOh54V32gZmb82BPsk7bgb41K_CntZukZG2eQ3p7kH0-5-Tucqv80PLRgnuX/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+021.JPG" /></a> We decided to keep our lives and our bones so we down climbed the route. From the top of the first pitch we found a horn that would be suitable for rappel. Not wanting to leave unneccasary tat (webbing for rappelling) the three of them down climbed on prussiks. I put my rock shoes on for the down climb because I'd essentially be on lead. Amy placed good gear before all of the cruxes (on the way up) so as I downclimbed, the gear was still below the cruxes. If I were to fall, at a crux, the gear would be there to catch me. It wasn't overly difficult but it certainly got my attention. As most of you know, downclimbing is harder than climbing up.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi87sDAQVsmawnUKFfIgtCBXMyaid92c6e7AKPlqb6ZRfhTvLSKn7qKpfxW5fCRa1-L43i_1kblec79xOHM40lNTbhdCfmTXsHUc56EuOlVwDFHtLTxNw3WAspUJMqvjAA90DuCBI_QcAxD/s1600-h/DSCN1137.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644815635519378" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi87sDAQVsmawnUKFfIgtCBXMyaid92c6e7AKPlqb6ZRfhTvLSKn7qKpfxW5fCRa1-L43i_1kblec79xOHM40lNTbhdCfmTXsHUc56EuOlVwDFHtLTxNw3WAspUJMqvjAA90DuCBI_QcAxD/s320/DSCN1137.JPG" /></a>We got back to the gully and we had to work our way over to the W Ear. The other three found the path of least resistance. Naturally I got myself treed on the ridgeback between the two ears. Its not easy being me.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdFV4mRzH8pJMcl8FfDEMJpiyRu1hMkYIKUB7CNoAjFzKdDAhwHZ8O-vtTu0iN4C1WWVbvVG_ZcQrU3qtYTR127VU7odyg9nabIRddTgfRzqQ3o9nPhAFhtvloYWpCgRuA9oKTyANR-0U/s1600-h/DSCN1144.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644809029430482" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgdFV4mRzH8pJMcl8FfDEMJpiyRu1hMkYIKUB7CNoAjFzKdDAhwHZ8O-vtTu0iN4C1WWVbvVG_ZcQrU3qtYTR127VU7odyg9nabIRddTgfRzqQ3o9nPhAFhtvloYWpCgRuA9oKTyANR-0U/s320/DSCN1144.JPG" /></a>Matt decided he'd lead the W Ear now that he found his sea legs. The plan was to scramble till we needed the rope. Matt took 80% of the gear we brought just in case. From the E ear, the W Ear looked slabby and scarry so we figured more gear = more better. We scrambled on up. Its hard to tell the difference between 4th class and low 5th class. I just call it 4th class so I don't have to feel bad about climbing ropeless.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeqMvV9Qe78khFc93P43hoEHWFlYDPp0TRJgr_eNeVK8qrokBvhS7pK7Y0JAiqY8Ms9i2gAu4xE7QYEU5atetyQYP8MxEEdsniaqA3Zq8lu486sK91DlHu9hoh4affqXo0fgRHVI02Tc2t/s1600-h/DSCN1145.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644800471616498" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeqMvV9Qe78khFc93P43hoEHWFlYDPp0TRJgr_eNeVK8qrokBvhS7pK7Y0JAiqY8Ms9i2gAu4xE7QYEU5atetyQYP8MxEEdsniaqA3Zq8lu486sK91DlHu9hoh4affqXo0fgRHVI02Tc2t/s320/DSCN1145.JPG" /></a>When Matt decided it was time to break out the rope, he built his anchor and I put him on belay. He started up w/ his El Cap sized rack of gear. Twenty feet later he started laughing. What looked like scarry 5th class slabs were actually second/third class ramps. He fixed the line at the top of the twenty foot step and we followed him up.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_YHveiX_QBrA51EH1uHAqiMHkB3ALROz_mwaamK5bDPOuSZfz61ZGr6t4CXpnteb-4ehWl7DvM__XrNGyeFx2xhRrFVIV4Al9oNGviO1klDbGGIxAJyc4_KtEGrPe1N0cHApBZ4c-iYz/s1600-h/DSCN1155.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644794303977026" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga_YHveiX_QBrA51EH1uHAqiMHkB3ALROz_mwaamK5bDPOuSZfz61ZGr6t4CXpnteb-4ehWl7DvM__XrNGyeFx2xhRrFVIV4Al9oNGviO1klDbGGIxAJyc4_KtEGrPe1N0cHApBZ4c-iYz/s320/DSCN1155.JPG" /></a> Amy followed "the pitch" last and soon we were on top of our second summit of the hour.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVi94nO_sHmvdSUIwxBXiSnEHLUR-lu9MEIQh-2JJ7-1lV9oIWur1bGyAs6dNnVrDkCl3Sikx3wUKDjzbcAcclXHKq6VgShxtvuhW3w6pxfXalz0DHzeGMeof_34nFITwC4-b3XHYruCB3/s1600-h/DSCN1162.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644786591245954" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVi94nO_sHmvdSUIwxBXiSnEHLUR-lu9MEIQh-2JJ7-1lV9oIWur1bGyAs6dNnVrDkCl3Sikx3wUKDjzbcAcclXHKq6VgShxtvuhW3w6pxfXalz0DHzeGMeof_34nFITwC4-b3XHYruCB3/s320/DSCN1162.JPG" /></a> Amy left her sneakers at the bottom of the pitch. She was breaking in her brand new Katana rock shoes. These boots were not made for walking. The ramps were about 500' long. In the above pic, you can see we decided to aid climb. She must really trust me to let me carry her that close to the edge. She's even smiling, she's crazier than me!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdhjRpoA2cS7IMfuXZFvA1hAbdKZizgaWX0uYVSU_SC2UXyGxTisGQi3myYjwmEMQuJ2bNBnnFOvR7inhSXlFW8Rzn8PmoV8qwB8PCsAGrcDFO1v-X6OOEBZrqgxi3HK7zp5lD3UYj006/s1600-h/DSCN1167.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644244760438146" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghdhjRpoA2cS7IMfuXZFvA1hAbdKZizgaWX0uYVSU_SC2UXyGxTisGQi3myYjwmEMQuJ2bNBnnFOvR7inhSXlFW8Rzn8PmoV8qwB8PCsAGrcDFO1v-X6OOEBZrqgxi3HK7zp5lD3UYj006/s320/DSCN1167.JPG" /></a>The breeze kicked up so I lounged in the lee of the rock. Of course I was the only w/out a jacket. Its not easy being me.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxhqSj2pBTPLIg2dlxOZa5hu5dNrGmWdr3eC5PvUKVVXBIXx3k3Ibwjr37MuMCvkf9SducCQk8zG70-f7X8D6Y66UuI310jGS1pdIMmw2hYRYAFBNMd3Rmr157ZcHlDjDUWxo2KtfglGxQ/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+030.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644238723737858" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxhqSj2pBTPLIg2dlxOZa5hu5dNrGmWdr3eC5PvUKVVXBIXx3k3Ibwjr37MuMCvkf9SducCQk8zG70-f7X8D6Y66UuI310jGS1pdIMmw2hYRYAFBNMd3Rmr157ZcHlDjDUWxo2KtfglGxQ/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+030.JPG" /></a> Here three of us felt like Kings. It's so cool when your on the summit of anything on a weekday. The cool breeze ran us off the summit so we gigled our way down Matt's pitch and headed back for the saddle.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXK4M6o-3KTB-Rl0btkaqrDc18BLFQvSwaZpcK1pztDr_e5oG3LLH4iwVOdAMieY7W5dBtET_4qQY08aMjtRN-hu4YNOjP98vt-dSxKB6pOozSnPe_2AJTjbpqxSGpzGWqmHxD4nfHKP4v/s1600-h/DSCN1182.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644227457004578" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXK4M6o-3KTB-Rl0btkaqrDc18BLFQvSwaZpcK1pztDr_e5oG3LLH4iwVOdAMieY7W5dBtET_4qQY08aMjtRN-hu4YNOjP98vt-dSxKB6pOozSnPe_2AJTjbpqxSGpzGWqmHxD4nfHKP4v/s320/DSCN1182.JPG" /></a> I scrambled this rock buttress that somehow we didn't see on the way in.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXueXElPsSLxXY8lgoaYflypIbmuPlsnkAGYonHQvPQLQElAfOC1ie5yAyv5mxH4Nj0yYaSFc8Qnd46ExO6UyjWSG5hd5_zD7CAIRilWHgNsYDGuVeUNF9ew81B2o43ud_D2tIq6ehBLB/s1600-h/DSCN1185.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644215427720530" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXueXElPsSLxXY8lgoaYflypIbmuPlsnkAGYonHQvPQLQElAfOC1ie5yAyv5mxH4Nj0yYaSFc8Qnd46ExO6UyjWSG5hd5_zD7CAIRilWHgNsYDGuVeUNF9ew81B2o43ud_D2tIq6ehBLB/s320/DSCN1185.JPG" /></a> I'm never too old to be an idiot!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMdwpF4gzH0osFBOE-vsQSQF8FE0lsvCSdYucUAEthOCz_5dYH_xL_97V5DvMB4vH3woaWAunUMxWad1S30AY9Gksv-NSBn1-HAbNgSIrdIFzlVz7PNUE80nDeHPfW3LP3TL6mqL6kjG2D/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+031.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5429644211875606674" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMdwpF4gzH0osFBOE-vsQSQF8FE0lsvCSdYucUAEthOCz_5dYH_xL_97V5DvMB4vH3woaWAunUMxWad1S30AY9Gksv-NSBn1-HAbNgSIrdIFzlVz7PNUE80nDeHPfW3LP3TL6mqL6kjG2D/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+031.JPG" /></a> We headed back to camp where John found the most comical place for a tent platform. In the middle of a bunch of flat ground, John found a bike-ramp shaped platform. I think it was his ploy to get Matt to cuddle him through the chilly night.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-40589383875894245082009-12-18T09:34:00.000-08:002009-12-20T09:53:10.894-08:00Devils Kitchen Headwall - Mt Hood<strong>I</strong> was in the middle of what was likely the swine flu when I received Tim and Jade's email about their trip up Mt Hood. There were lots of days of good climbing and biking weather but I could hardly manage a trip to the grocery store. On Thursday December 10, 2009, I decided enough was enough. I had one more day of good weather and I was gonna test my health/fitness by hiking up Mt Hood. I didn't have plans of summitting, just go for a walk. I'd better take my crampons, an ice axe and an ice tool just in case.<br /><br /><strong>T</strong>hursday night, I packed my Puffy jacket, a sit pad, emergency blanket, trekking poles, water, hammer gel, snickers bar, helmet, boots, crampons, axes, gloves, hat, iphone and my <strong>SPOT LOCATOR DEVICE.</strong> When I was falling a sleep in my bed, a group of three climbers were leaving Timberline lodge for a trip up the Reid Glacier Headwall at about 1am.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifWDMGAmpQu_AD0SCjdPzaeUfLVHJwS44n9A7Zvd1XKHY0XMF5xS8lvILDLIvaEqqfZkuAVweGB5v0aGtA7iz3TPW1HDnXTGp8hTb4Hw4u9-poWz5RGdXMxisSOrZOAEh7F86TMRKv_Mea/s1600-h/086.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5416635807718142802" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifWDMGAmpQu_AD0SCjdPzaeUfLVHJwS44n9A7Zvd1XKHY0XMF5xS8lvILDLIvaEqqfZkuAVweGB5v0aGtA7iz3TPW1HDnXTGp8hTb4Hw4u9-poWz5RGdXMxisSOrZOAEh7F86TMRKv_Mea/s320/086.JPG" /></a><strong>I</strong> shouldered my pack w/ my snowboard and planned on hiking for three hours or when I got to the summit, whichever came first. I sent an "everything is OK" message to Amy with the <strong>SPOT. </strong>I wanted her to know what time I was starting so she could track my general progress. It's also set up to send a message to Amy's Dad letting him know that I'm out on Hood. With the touch of a button, they can see exactly where I am on a terrain map and when. With my cold/flu, I suspected I'd turnaround near the triangle moraine. Surprisingly, I felt pretty good but I could certainly feel the weight of the snowboard.<br /><br /><strong>I</strong> love climbing with friends but sometimes its nice to climb alone. Some people think its unsafe and all I can say is that I take extra care to be cautious when I'm climbing by myself. I stay well below my abilities and I don't climb up anything that I wouldn't be able down climb easily. I am what I am.<br /><br /><strong>P</strong>rogress went well and I found myself at the Devils Kitchen. I ran into a few climbers who were headed down. They asked what I had in mind and I mentioned that I was going to have a peek at the Devils Kitchen Headwall. "Are you gonna climb it?" they asked. I didn't know. The weather was in the low 20's, there was virtually no wind and there's wasn't a peep in the way of rock or ice fall. I responded that I wasn't sure, I was gonna have a look and see. They went through the normal questions that I'm used to answering. Am I by myself? Do I have a rope? Do I have a phone/MLU? I finally responded that I wasn't going to climb by myself, I'm taking my shadow with me. They smiled and hurried off.<br /><br /><strong>I</strong> checked out the Flying Buttress (the top of the debris chute) and the snow was about a foot thick but it was hollow underneath. Every now and then I'd punch through to the mountain. There was a two foot separation between the snow and the rock underneath. It was disconcerting so I moved further left to the steeper sections of the Devil Kitchen Headwall.<br /><strong>T</strong>here are two variations to the Headwall route. (actually more but two in Thomas' climbing guide) The first, or right most, variation looked to be nothing more than a steep snow ramp. I decided to investigate the second variation.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fVsWioDt9pUuo6AL4L30SqAQuw3XHwVoeh0hTzH8cev2ibLyy-RdPoUnvu-X2JuMbzI9O4V_E7DOs2poLa8ZgBWqIeFOPCrk0WaGTdsc1eaty_EgJPMgCyoMa_B2RLwb1EcH27InapJM/s1600-h/092.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5416635803051963858" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8fVsWioDt9pUuo6AL4L30SqAQuw3XHwVoeh0hTzH8cev2ibLyy-RdPoUnvu-X2JuMbzI9O4V_E7DOs2poLa8ZgBWqIeFOPCrk0WaGTdsc1eaty_EgJPMgCyoMa_B2RLwb1EcH27InapJM/s320/092.JPG" /></a> <strong>I</strong> took this pic just to show John and Rick what they missed out on;-) This route looked more fun and I decided I'd investigate it further. I knew it was getting late but I still had a few minutes before my turn around time. There were two steep ice steps that were probably about 75 degrees for less than ten feet. The ice was heavily featured and there was a rock wall I could stem on to. It was alot easier than it sounds because the ice was so secure. Not that brittle glacier ice we find down on the Elliot glacier. I was able to sink the pick of my axe and my ice tool to the shaft. I know that's a bit excessive but the walls were short and I knew I wouldn't fatigue. Plus, the added security felt nice. After the second step there was just a few hundred feet of cramponing till the headwall gave way to the ridge. When I gained the ridge, I sent a second SPOT message to Amy. I wanted to let her know that everything was OK and I wanted to have the coordinates of where the headwall gained the ridge. If you "investigate" a route thouroughly, you'll find yourself sitting on top. I was concerned that the snow on the E side of the ridge was going to be rhotten from being in the sun all day. I wasn't looking forward to downclimbing the route. As it turned out, the E side was boilerplate ice. A cat couldn't scratch it. It wasn't steep but it was exposed. I got back on all foors and starting traversing to the summit. Half way there, I realized that I was being foolish and I stood up and walked to the summit. I had the feeling of a cat walking on a chalk board. I scurried across the ridge knowing that I had outstayed my turn around time by 3o minutes. The snow on the old chute was perfect and I was able to flat foot 95% of the way back to the hogs back. <div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7OS9nG2T13_nDQNm1VPgVdgl_Elx1SRxr-xNWqeV_UiGngC2ea5H8ZD0QxFBvX658PGpfrTtSLnFwo8F80rMQGL9wgL5FLaw1PApZzs8mG2zYUTfQoKyRgbFtz_TdZrtv8E1KucKHOv6/s1600-h/094.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5416635795338636882" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV7OS9nG2T13_nDQNm1VPgVdgl_Elx1SRxr-xNWqeV_UiGngC2ea5H8ZD0QxFBvX658PGpfrTtSLnFwo8F80rMQGL9wgL5FLaw1PApZzs8mG2zYUTfQoKyRgbFtz_TdZrtv8E1KucKHOv6/s320/094.JPG" /></a></div><div align="center"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">The route ascends the left side of the prominent notch in in the center of the photo.</span></div><div><strong>I</strong> sent another SPOT to Amy so she could see I was back to the relative safety of the Hogsback. The Headwall looks steep and ominous but I knew when I was up close it would look alot easier. For an experienced climber under the conditions I found, the route is no problem but lots of fun. I would hate to see inexperienced people bumbling around up there. I also decided to send a few friends some pics from my phone, just to be a punk. I kid you not, as soon as I pressed send, I got a wicked cramp in my right hamstring. He's watching and He knows when I've been bad.</div><div></div><div><strong>I</strong> hustled back to my snowboard and the snow/ice was terrible but once I got to the Palmer, it sure beat walking. Probably saved a half hour and lots of morale destroying monotony.</div><div></div><div>I knew that I had to be cautious and I was prepared to stay an evening out. I knew that just because I had a SPOT locator didn't mean I had the right to push any limits. I know that when I'm by myself, a turned ankle is serious business. </div><div></div><div><strong>I</strong> don't know what happened to the group of three that found trouble on the Reid Headwall. My guess is one of them was injured and they picked the strongest remaining climber to down climb and get help. He probably left his warm stuff with the other two figuring they'd be spending the night out and he'd get back to the safety of the South Side. It likely got late on him. When I left the upper flanks of the mountain it was probably 20 degrees and dropping. Some wind also moved in with the storm. My heart breaks for those three.</div><div></div><div><strong>T</strong>hat said, I can't help but think that if they had a SPOT locator, they could have sent a 911 with the EXACT location. During some of the rescue training and climbing I've done, I've had the opportunity to rub shoulders with some folks from Portland Mountain Rescue. They're big fans of the SPOT because it works everywhere but the N and S Pole and you're able to send OK messages to track progress not just a 911 message. They can see where you've been, what kind of time your making and the climber can initiate the rescue. Not just your friends / wife / husband / parents / kids calling 911 when you 20 hours overdue.</div><div></div><div><strong>T</strong>his is my appeal to all of the climb leaders to carry a SPOT or PLB. I know its extra weight but you guys appear to love extra weight and you can disperse it as team gear. You can put it in your pack and not pull it out at all if you don't want to but you can send a 911 if you need to. This doesn't give you permission to climb outside your abilities but in the "what if" scenario, you're better of with one than without one. I've heard many of you say that we've gotten along fine without one for 30 years but I could also be writing all of you a letter and drawing you pics of the route but I'm using technology that's available.</div><div></div><div><strong>I</strong>t doesn't pollute the purity of climbing any more than using Prima Loft rather than wool. I don't know that I could look at somebody's loved ones and tell them that if I'd invested $100 a year, their mother / daughter / son/ father/ husband / wife would still be here. What will I say, I did't want to carry the extra 12 oz because I wanted to bring my camera? I couldn't afford it because I didn't want to sacrifice a lift ticket and beer money?</div><div></div><div><strong>I</strong> also don't want rescuers endangering themselves searching whole side of a mountain for me in the event that I have an accident. They'll know where I'm at. Obviously its best to stay safe and avoid an emergency at all costs. Prevention is easier, better and pure. But what if?</div><div></div><div>You can buy one at Climb Max and the rebate almost covers the purchase price, I'm sure you can get them at lots of places. You go online and in a few minutes, you're set up and if you want to stick to the basics, you'll never have to fuss with it again unless you have an emergency.</div><div></div><div><strong>I</strong> have one, Mike N has one as well. Ask questions.</div><div></div><div><strong>A</strong>ll that to say, DK headwall was fun. </div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-89889487819126535512009-12-15T12:16:00.000-08:002009-12-18T09:31:36.165-08:0018 Peaks worth of FriendsAs a goal, the 18 peak award didn't inspire me. I don't mean to say that climbing "the 18" isn't an accomplishment, I'm simply not motivated by lists. As it turned out, the mountain I wanted to climb most, Shuksan, turned out to be my last of the 18. Hmmm... I'm certainly not trying to discount the award but it had a different affect on me. When I received the award, I looked down all of the peaks and I wasn't impressed that I had climbed them. When I looked at each peak, I saw the faces of my climb teams. My first peak, I only knew Amy. I look back at the team and now I count many of the people on that first climb as my friends. People who I could turn to if I was in need. People who can count on me for whatever. Climbing is more than climbing. I'll do my best to let the picks do the talking but as you know, its hard for me to keep quiet.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaY63PMQ6ylp4vnMzNGTNVuF46YP4Wb_2LNPjmTQEZtQsjAnN5O3Vs0zy_S0fryvNLIyWABeUOit1myVtIoW6upsQflmwzs9dFkSYzRpXmkzSvkWAZCjffqAnLm_iIB1tgnc8FbPbMdHJo/s1600-h/DSCN0804+-+Copy.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563792626250802" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaY63PMQ6ylp4vnMzNGTNVuF46YP4Wb_2LNPjmTQEZtQsjAnN5O3Vs0zy_S0fryvNLIyWABeUOit1myVtIoW6upsQflmwzs9dFkSYzRpXmkzSvkWAZCjffqAnLm_iIB1tgnc8FbPbMdHJo/s320/DSCN0804+-+Copy.JPG" /></a>Is it me or is Steve sucking it in? So here we are on Mt Stuart, Steve has been one of the leaders w/ a big influence on me. I've tried to mimick his organization and preparedness. As we all know, Steve has a huge impact on the new climbers. I hope to encourage like he does. I'd also like to point out that Steve is sweating and I'm not;-)<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlqGAudKnjRc4b5nk6k2hIDJ4RpM_wC2daAepPoGlMPwVtYt7CVNejgG4oA9g-N5I2EapOq6Dlm9seaKZYbSvAViNNmzPyGL-2g9AeJFu20HXa5wFcoKB_xNk7EmXp-KGteDVx0JFTkSvD/s1600-h/completed+crutch.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563782092701314" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlqGAudKnjRc4b5nk6k2hIDJ4RpM_wC2daAepPoGlMPwVtYt7CVNejgG4oA9g-N5I2EapOq6Dlm9seaKZYbSvAViNNmzPyGL-2g9AeJFu20HXa5wFcoKB_xNk7EmXp-KGteDVx0JFTkSvD/s320/completed+crutch.jpg" /></a> On our Olympus trip, a girl from a Mazama team injured her ankle on the hike out. Steve made her a crutch! The climbing world is a small world. The girl who injured her ankle actually broke her ankle and four years later, I've gotten to be friends with her and her husband. The mountain was beatiful but I remember the people.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMbsjI7wymwk10mAA7lav6LVwCuTS6evXeJDjiZ9RJe3SwZk_7mDBLuPEU2TGmhPdnOXCKV-EQhPnsJLXWquQeg5F0nB2zwutmD5GzROMmi__gbY26q5fqdmshlQjjduXvDi85xUx65q_4/s1600-h/new+dog+toy_broken+rope_rs.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 237px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563777742190594" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMbsjI7wymwk10mAA7lav6LVwCuTS6evXeJDjiZ9RJe3SwZk_7mDBLuPEU2TGmhPdnOXCKV-EQhPnsJLXWquQeg5F0nB2zwutmD5GzROMmi__gbY26q5fqdmshlQjjduXvDi85xUx65q_4/s320/new+dog+toy_broken+rope_rs.jpg" /></a> Steve and I managed to cut the rope w/ rock fall. Steve says he's had 3 close calls in all of his years of climbing. This would be my first close call, I've since had one other but I wont get into that. Don't want to throw anybody under the bus :-)<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCJL1v4QPtAZhA7FsbBaz1Rr78ZPYaKdrscNst-Hy_GiWWt_j6nqy3Xf-mNHJV1MRAkyH1wgoeuVaX87auazTwOu6WuzB-TkY-blwZbNVyX4M9Fy1Xe_vSaO0XIFtWPc6lEFotoraCSgh4/s1600-h/DSCN0606.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563772996520514" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCJL1v4QPtAZhA7FsbBaz1Rr78ZPYaKdrscNst-Hy_GiWWt_j6nqy3Xf-mNHJV1MRAkyH1wgoeuVaX87auazTwOu6WuzB-TkY-blwZbNVyX4M9Fy1Xe_vSaO0XIFtWPc6lEFotoraCSgh4/s320/DSCN0606.JPG" /></a>I've always felt that hobbies are good but they are nothing more than <strong>stuff </strong>that we do w/ our friends and family. Here Tim and I enjoy the summit of Mt Shasta. I know we have the same look but it's easy to recognize Tim by his pink bottle.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcn_8jUMOTNH1WoR2xkgJJD966I4A5CC05eWIQvn7DzvDZcYTpETm1_NcMp4wpUpLELyrWgPB9n1zPHmtH1ylP_HqsC4Bc3w_v7Qy6JHDmlYEMTvIi1zwim_i7wxmq8eXI_jXg3Imgsg5/s1600-h/Shasta+summit_JayGaryJess.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 237px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563764843955474" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWcn_8jUMOTNH1WoR2xkgJJD966I4A5CC05eWIQvn7DzvDZcYTpETm1_NcMp4wpUpLELyrWgPB9n1zPHmtH1ylP_HqsC4Bc3w_v7Qy6JHDmlYEMTvIi1zwim_i7wxmq8eXI_jXg3Imgsg5/s320/Shasta+summit_JayGaryJess.jpg" /></a>I've only had three or four opportunities to climb with Jay but he's inpired me. He was known to climb Hood monthly. As the legend goes, he climbs Hood for breakfast and Adams for dinner. I've seen him eat and I believe it. On one of my first climbs, S Sister, Jay was leading us up the snow field. I had this ole guy slowly kicking steps up the final snow pitch. He was going slow so I offered to relieve him. He declined and mentioned that he's happy w/ the pace. I figured he was red lining and he was going to have himself a heart attack. As I found out, he could run circles around me. He was just humble.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXQwtVe7tIQMqylvESXziQ_cXjlM9ZimWyMtKbqA-2RQvIgXwA04szhNr3AqnfZ8f4zzR8cVcWHQ7dFUe7I_b7aQqitmTeBLHiC0mzdhvmEN5a4p_yzyeglxZe_bwGbdSi3n6yhLFAjMBJ/s1600-h/DSCN1072.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563117124031874" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXQwtVe7tIQMqylvESXziQ_cXjlM9ZimWyMtKbqA-2RQvIgXwA04szhNr3AqnfZ8f4zzR8cVcWHQ7dFUe7I_b7aQqitmTeBLHiC0mzdhvmEN5a4p_yzyeglxZe_bwGbdSi3n6yhLFAjMBJ/s320/DSCN1072.JPG" /></a>Ellen Gradison, where to start! I can't really get into all of the ways in which Ellen has inspired me. Instead I'll show you this pic on the summit of 3 Finger Jack. She got to the summit first and she set up the anchor. It was very breezy. Since I was going to be back at the saddle I left her my jacket. It fit her like a dress. More on Ellen later.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3DJtUNbWHfMOCxT0cPKo1WJ3P8g1zl3bM-QZKHMd11N17h1vF6o3EfCFvihUo0Ecijh8PijyBn6e36d2mgPUrH0rh2AwhxQOFtSesJxcvvAiCd-dSJVS-YTUHH3R7apKOpId3McM7tyGG/s1600-h/DSCN1051.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563109034861538" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3DJtUNbWHfMOCxT0cPKo1WJ3P8g1zl3bM-QZKHMd11N17h1vF6o3EfCFvihUo0Ecijh8PijyBn6e36d2mgPUrH0rh2AwhxQOFtSesJxcvvAiCd-dSJVS-YTUHH3R7apKOpId3McM7tyGG/s320/DSCN1051.JPG" /></a> Here, Tim Hale is perched on a sub-ridge of 3FJ. I couldn't resist working this pic in.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFDsikSMiaNgNwOaQxu7diBKnj7y_U6R_yGYMH6RxyDRR8cJ1JTG7BOW_4ksjYTxRnTpNwlnz-RxrdBIoQ4URPe9Ctqxv6YDbsqleroo0BYpIAUABCCP9fckoV1I9eyrRJWhYAQP1-MDa/s1600-h/DSCN2296.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563098968643874" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJFDsikSMiaNgNwOaQxu7diBKnj7y_U6R_yGYMH6RxyDRR8cJ1JTG7BOW_4ksjYTxRnTpNwlnz-RxrdBIoQ4URPe9Ctqxv6YDbsqleroo0BYpIAUABCCP9fckoV1I9eyrRJWhYAQP1-MDa/s320/DSCN2296.JPG" /></a> John and Glo. At the gear swap, I met John and Gloria. Amy bought Glo's old pack and John invited Amy and I to join his Mt Hood climb. It was his provisional year. I let my glove fly off the triangle moraine and almost froze my hand off. Thanks John. When I took climb school, I didn't plan on sticking with the club. I just wanted to learn the basics. People like John and Glo got us hooked. I can't say how many trips I've gone on w/ these two, nor can I say how many times we've had dinner with them. But I can say this, they're people who I've looked to for advice on tents and life in general. They don't come better.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-FT5VV6Ea72wuwFFWDCLqlXT8-wk8YlI_XoKdtulytxb1I58epB6OAj08sIascncJ-ubJDBYZl0_aNC-71b2xlHcfNX6xON59LcXYI8zcntiXxx-7hoQl-rMhI71ncgF-sdQQ_mHO5mz/s1600-h/DSCN2320.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563095813112914" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3-FT5VV6Ea72wuwFFWDCLqlXT8-wk8YlI_XoKdtulytxb1I58epB6OAj08sIascncJ-ubJDBYZl0_aNC-71b2xlHcfNX6xON59LcXYI8zcntiXxx-7hoQl-rMhI71ncgF-sdQQ_mHO5mz/s320/DSCN2320.JPG" /></a> Is that a sweet beard or what! Matt Vancampen lead a trip up the Whitewater Glacier on Jefferson. I also had the chance to climb w/ Matt down in S Oregon this summer, it was one of the best trips I had all year. I respect all of the climb leaders in our club for their ability to lead climbs. When it come to Vancampen, I hope someday I can be half the man he is. He's doing the important stuff, while I'm fooling around in the mountains.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTo5EZAjqd8sRurTtkTBM1hZOj921KN4ZZ3Flv3S8YdSIAjUPpr9aadQyiHcZRSEjzGZ7-EtOgRfsE_OK5Z5Zwdp61PJQFOQ3E2UGPf5S5_qon6ezhb8Jxj5HFaWUR7lVYTQsmUGEF_tAx/s1600-h/DSCN2324.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563086192833074" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTo5EZAjqd8sRurTtkTBM1hZOj921KN4ZZ3Flv3S8YdSIAjUPpr9aadQyiHcZRSEjzGZ7-EtOgRfsE_OK5Z5Zwdp61PJQFOQ3E2UGPf5S5_qon6ezhb8Jxj5HFaWUR7lVYTQsmUGEF_tAx/s320/DSCN2324.JPG" /></a> Here's the infamous traverse on Jefferson. I believe there were 9 of us on this climb. I'd say 8 of them have become my good friends. The other lives in Virginia.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhyphenhyphenvyU1BtsnNP2bCfsubmx3kbAIFcgZbFflklH9MKN84dogNCi310hXo7mVBqvEu3n6ZqivR_67LgW_DjaNNx9n0NFtocDNtxO-8LLedYJ0LYnRAJwVJ2tXRKxaTGyQb7ipjnBXJfsAWFO/s1600-h/DSCN2189.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415562016901447394" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhyphenhyphenvyU1BtsnNP2bCfsubmx3kbAIFcgZbFflklH9MKN84dogNCi310hXo7mVBqvEu3n6ZqivR_67LgW_DjaNNx9n0NFtocDNtxO-8LLedYJ0LYnRAJwVJ2tXRKxaTGyQb7ipjnBXJfsAWFO/s320/DSCN2189.JPG" /></a> Here, the true mountain man Keith and his squeeze Linda take in the view. Glacier Peak has become an illusive peak due to road washouts. As it turned out, we spent 5 days doing a roundabout route. It might be the most beautiful area I've been.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihLrvhyphenhyphenk9cqoCANN6HKlBfIDRlzNU4dQ0Lf1UnckJms7kvBvXwpU6vmeRZblSrEr818ltRGX3UaFCwXiSDmNIBmZKBnVnVo48UlVQ2eZilCi-6B7AipACwp8twZCY7-IJB2MmZEMTWXI2z/s1600-h/DSCN2195.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415562009966868802" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihLrvhyphenhyphenk9cqoCANN6HKlBfIDRlzNU4dQ0Lf1UnckJms7kvBvXwpU6vmeRZblSrEr818ltRGX3UaFCwXiSDmNIBmZKBnVnVo48UlVQ2eZilCi-6B7AipACwp8twZCY7-IJB2MmZEMTWXI2z/s320/DSCN2195.JPG" /></a>I can't talk about my friends in the club w/out bringing up Robyn Smith. I've likely done more trips with Robyn than any other Chemeketan. Certainly some of the most memorable trips were with Robyn. Tim and Robyn were as encouraging to Amy and I our first year as anybody.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5OuIcgdDtfeRwypUJnb1Uu7_T52SVli7NozQJViig3vWSDzV-BG0eAcfvvSvj7zC55rlNBwebOvm2yKTZCRDsH8cZSSUL2Pfe_DSbK3jcGggCYnZVmH5rur2M8qMmc8-kGzBoIft0yZIY/s1600-h/DSCN2211.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415561999218154482" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5OuIcgdDtfeRwypUJnb1Uu7_T52SVli7NozQJViig3vWSDzV-BG0eAcfvvSvj7zC55rlNBwebOvm2yKTZCRDsH8cZSSUL2Pfe_DSbK3jcGggCYnZVmH5rur2M8qMmc8-kGzBoIft0yZIY/s320/DSCN2211.JPG" /></a> That same Glorious trip on Glacier Peak.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP9JiavUSTF594BOUJc-0dWFvjdnSSURS6wPU4VxcElU6jNVKRrSBuITPGemjrjvwFxXPfomXOY2Gdr8HPdG4nxMH39U5aZihL2n-QzRg-h6_ipTiC7f43ZIySMfm4urUWyw49pd_zDvol/s1600-h/DSCN3549.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415561992542876338" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP9JiavUSTF594BOUJc-0dWFvjdnSSURS6wPU4VxcElU6jNVKRrSBuITPGemjrjvwFxXPfomXOY2Gdr8HPdG4nxMH39U5aZihL2n-QzRg-h6_ipTiC7f43ZIySMfm4urUWyw49pd_zDvol/s320/DSCN3549.JPG" /></a> Here, Big John and I stand on the summit of Baker w/ Shuksan in the background. This was one of my provisional leads. I used to look at pictures like this and think that was a life for other people.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDCLNJcEecq7w-XBqmrI_qhBU2MOobykKIZhIA3WrCizlwAZJU_sfsIcAv6l0gGwaH-t8Yr65oANBQr-o159ftrTwZBqTS_AZEul9iwk4sWpFdTdL6O9qhyphenhyphenIZ0Vu1td9B8IJqlTrpm8XxP/s1600-h/DSCN3564.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415561990296458066" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDCLNJcEecq7w-XBqmrI_qhBU2MOobykKIZhIA3WrCizlwAZJU_sfsIcAv6l0gGwaH-t8Yr65oANBQr-o159ftrTwZBqTS_AZEul9iwk4sWpFdTdL6O9qhyphenhyphenIZ0Vu1td9B8IJqlTrpm8XxP/s320/DSCN3564.JPG" /></a> On that same trip, Steve lead a different team up the other side of the mountain and we all converged at the summit. We also ran into Vincent and a couple of other friends from the Mazi's. In the pic, you can see Steve and you can sort of see Linda in her party hat, it was their 18th peak. Tons of fun on a perfect day!<br /><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEFt5Yjr7g451gJrk5DbWtht3dzzOslvnIvz2RCcyR0QhWFeBiKQgGuIHkPkli4hM3Qkw8TSyWzmj3kDN9xKa5vbHGm04ntIsgF7Ga1GQIP7VRbVjKPttcEh2ZJanPhB8epRuZN0-mAmm/s1600-h/looking+down_john+P+and+our+bootpath+over+icefall_Rainier+2007.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 221px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415560888764415314" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyEFt5Yjr7g451gJrk5DbWtht3dzzOslvnIvz2RCcyR0QhWFeBiKQgGuIHkPkli4hM3Qkw8TSyWzmj3kDN9xKa5vbHGm04ntIsgF7Ga1GQIP7VRbVjKPttcEh2ZJanPhB8epRuZN0-mAmm/s320/looking+down_john+P+and+our+bootpath+over+icefall_Rainier+2007.jpg" /></a>I wasn't ever itching to climb Mt Rainier. Big John some how convinced Amy that she could and should climb Rainier. They dragged me along. This pic was on the decent of Dissapointment Cleaver. Looking back down the heavily crevassed glacier Amy saw a boot path going through some wild terrain. "Look," she said, "some idiots walked through all of those crevasses!" Her mouth gaped when we explained to her that we were the idiots who walked through the crevasse field, it was just dark and now we had to go back through in the day light. From our Rainier team, I think I've climbed w/ 8 out of 9 of the members around a dozen times each at least. </div><div></div><div>I was at the end of Rick Barry's rope team when I had one of my strangest climbing moments. John led his group of 5 into an ice fall. All of their had lamps dissappeared. Rick followed them in and both of our rope teams, aside from me, were in the icefall. I couldn't see a single headlamp. It was black and I was alone on the mountain. Before I turned the corner into the maze, I saw John's headlamp peak out the other side.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-kz5BvmXJrLP8F6Zn0jc6f3-nBrqQw3Q14_xrfmzqOyYSNEc6IK0PFW_mFaoX_JPa46jwfcH8MCamC2go80p6fHR9JEophv3FDq1xiF6_Tff_4TlwXulg0b8jc4rWSGZ0DjEABQq2Pbm3/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0104.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415560883638242978" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-kz5BvmXJrLP8F6Zn0jc6f3-nBrqQw3Q14_xrfmzqOyYSNEc6IK0PFW_mFaoX_JPa46jwfcH8MCamC2go80p6fHR9JEophv3FDq1xiF6_Tff_4TlwXulg0b8jc4rWSGZ0DjEABQq2Pbm3/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0104.JPG" /></a> I chronicled our voyage up Mt Shuksan on a separate post that most of you have read. I've always done my best to learn the newest techniques and be progressive in my learning. I try to focus 100% on the micro and 100% the macro. On Shuksan, I had to micro focus on the wet/icy downsloping rock while leading the pitches. If I let my weight shift and had a foot slide out, it would have been bad news for the team. At the same moment, I had to focus on the macro scale of how will the rest of the team handle the moves and will I be able to find a suitable anchor and am I going the best way? Am I keeping track of time? Mt Shuksan was my 18th peak and likely my best effort as a club climb leader. Our team overcame challenges and we stayed out of harms way. What will I remember most from that climb? Was it the pitches? the views? the sigh of relief when we were down?</div><div></div><div>Nah, I'll remember my friends. I'll remember a certain someone sprinting across the glacier, dropping their pants headed to the latrine. I'll remember Dan Sewell explaining to me how his misery index is around eight or nine when he was putting on his wet boots. I'll remember splitting pizza with Tim and Jade and all of us trying to finish the one we were working on so we can snag the last peice. (but acting like we don't know there's only one peice left) I'll remember Bryon anchoring his rope team wearing an ace bandage around his face because he forgot his sunglasses. I'll remember John and Joanna posing for a picture in the starbuck parking lot, looking like tourists. I'll remember the look on Mike McHugh's face in his summit shot.<br /></div><div>But there's certainly more than just 18 peaks right?</div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbI-DPtW6cYEN8sLdoJKvpVxGQl7lCAa3RG4Bptz_H3BwcmPfA1hVPq2lakLnATz4coiB9NkpSKeM3S1ss0moKqstEDUPfNY3lPP7ntW9UaiYnrv30Gr4YnidnKdHWmNM1WdxlgLga7Kd_/s1600-h/DSCN0334.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415560877025710258" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbI-DPtW6cYEN8sLdoJKvpVxGQl7lCAa3RG4Bptz_H3BwcmPfA1hVPq2lakLnATz4coiB9NkpSKeM3S1ss0moKqstEDUPfNY3lPP7ntW9UaiYnrv30Gr4YnidnKdHWmNM1WdxlgLga7Kd_/s320/DSCN0334.JPG" /></a>In this pic; Ellen, Amy and Melissa Heuberger (now Melissa Nisly) are hanging out on the Tatoosh Traverse. This was one of the more formative climbs I've been on. The Tatoosh should be the graduation climb from climb school. You get to use all of your new skills in a beautiful area in the back drop of Rainier. On this climb, Amy learned that climbing is fun. Up to this point, the few climbs we'd gone on were more about being cold and walking in the dark. Ellen sent out an email to the new climb school grads giving us some options of things she was willing to lead. Ryan Nisly, Melissa, Greg Phillips, Amy and I picked the Tatoosh. Seeing Ellen's patience and her ability to encourage are skills I strive for. Last weekend, we met up w/ Ryan and Melissa and the Sewell's to make apple cider and I had another chance to see that climbing isn't always about climbing.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4IGpbWvaXOsxeQ5XEQ9_lPuD3BcG2Q6s_xYQXg0w9CkexnetlSZQ6GotOMlRJqViuxgenz1H2ipR2IWlCSDgDg00umjYRbWBllXYJ8UfZLvbktiJj1OocrU0RnqRnSn3FBb0cTVeDq3-E/s1600-h/DSCN0284.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415560865424915042" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4IGpbWvaXOsxeQ5XEQ9_lPuD3BcG2Q6s_xYQXg0w9CkexnetlSZQ6GotOMlRJqViuxgenz1H2ipR2IWlCSDgDg00umjYRbWBllXYJ8UfZLvbktiJj1OocrU0RnqRnSn3FBb0cTVeDq3-E/s320/DSCN0284.JPG" /></a>My third climb was up Snowking Mountain in the N Cascades. Haydar Kutuk took us on a Bill Saur Special; climbs where the approach is the hard part. Haydar and Bill taught me to enjoy <strong>all</strong> of the mountains. Not just the ones on the list. Joanna asked Haydar how many of the 18 peaks he had left to do, I think Haydar said 16 more and he'd be there. She asked what his goal was, he said his goal was to have fun. I've gotten my 18 peak award, it was mostly by default, when you climb every weekend, your gonna knock em off. I've never forgotten Haydar's answer. "My goal is to have fun."</div><div></div><div>Wild Bill is known for his uniqueness. He finds the most obscure peaks and the most obscure web sites. He has the most clever sayings and he's not afraid to resort to plain old cursing. He has a way about him that makes you think your climbing w/ a madman but at the same time, you can see he's given things alot of thought and his experience shows through his madness. I've watched him tie himself in knots trying to clip through a picket as the middle person. On an all day trip to a place he's never been, I've seen him guestimate arrival times within five minutes. Every now and again, Bill will get serious and try and pass on experience. He's given me some of the best advice in climbing. "When you're climbing, the most important peak is the one your on, don't focus on future trips."<br /><br /><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbpzb1PjbL0Y4Vh36vEOl2SxsK_nVCi_mJAdLSC7f6TcXimg1khXhNOsJQC0CDE42nlo-KaN9aQJuS27ZinHWWitB3TH1itxUhmRcu_M-RytBAK6zBfuRpoTml5iFl5qpmteLajqQ88oQ/s1600-h/IMG_4685.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 240px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415560860578738770" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbpzb1PjbL0Y4Vh36vEOl2SxsK_nVCi_mJAdLSC7f6TcXimg1khXhNOsJQC0CDE42nlo-KaN9aQJuS27ZinHWWitB3TH1itxUhmRcu_M-RytBAK6zBfuRpoTml5iFl5qpmteLajqQ88oQ/s320/IMG_4685.jpg" /></a></div><div>On my second Chemektan trip, Vincent took me to Diamond Peak. There was 10 feet of snow on the trail and it rained for all but 8 hours on a three day trip. Vince gave me chances to lead the team up a steep snow ridge and planted the seed for leadership. He's always encouraged me and even threatened that he's passing the torch to me. I think he's got lots of miles left.</div><div></div><div>The W Ridge of Mt Stuart was the first serious climb I went on. I had been cragging and I'd been mountaineering. It was my first alpine rock trip. I learned on this route the 5.7 alpine is no joke at all. I remember being in the middle of a lead and wishing I was hiking up the Cascadian because I was scared. I remember wishing the hard parts were behind me. Vince "let" me lead all of the pitches because he'd already done the route. This route got me into the idea of Alpinism. Finding alternate routes to the easy routes up mountains. Now, I love the feeling of having lots of rock to climb and not much time to do it. I love being in the middle of a hard lead. While in the middle of the difficulties, I often wish I was somewhere else, but I like that feeling too. I love pushing myself in the mountains and I enjoy showing beginners the "ropes." I climbed the 18 peaks and remember every person on every peak. I've climbed by myself and I've climbed in a "team" of 19. I can go to the mall and not see a single person I know, but on the summit of Mt Baker, I catch up w/ 16 of my close friends. I've been shaped by the leaders who taught me and the people who I've taught.</div><div></div><div>So here I am. </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-16569406694181694742009-10-05T08:50:00.000-07:002009-10-09T08:44:45.157-07:00Ice School 2009<span style="font-size:180%;">Elliot Glacier</span><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHGdvyM3Yn9nymt7CBs3jNBpkjN8D7PaPVuUf0f7Ub1nhu4Z1AaABo6Mf0x6XEQDVIEbI-Auts45uc5IrP4-69t260lY6GTclatlmayz2dzPphYqiqw-ySK_9l0zgZDG2M60c-8-9dM1zS/s1600-h/DSCN2483.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389146627580585170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHGdvyM3Yn9nymt7CBs3jNBpkjN8D7PaPVuUf0f7Ub1nhu4Z1AaABo6Mf0x6XEQDVIEbI-Auts45uc5IrP4-69t260lY6GTclatlmayz2dzPphYqiqw-ySK_9l0zgZDG2M60c-8-9dM1zS/s320/DSCN2483.JPG" border="0" /></a> The goal of the class is to give students a good understanding of what their crampons can do.<br /><br />We'll hike up to the Elliot glacier from the Cloud Cap campground. We'll ascend the moraine till we can find good access to the Elliot Glacier. Once we reach the ice, we'll get started.<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWVjOIbRbQVl4CLVcMmp94WGD-j1F57laUo6peUUWJdZD8Uq47utXWbxo2rk-uZyV0fj2iGjNoBVGqvlJeGZt00IEnCc7PyQhWwiw6fiSu5STQgrAUTPuPztwDEPQ29WIvHQUMIr7TiZYE/s1600-h/DSCN2492.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389146453934315618" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWVjOIbRbQVl4CLVcMmp94WGD-j1F57laUo6peUUWJdZD8Uq47utXWbxo2rk-uZyV0fj2iGjNoBVGqvlJeGZt00IEnCc7PyQhWwiw6fiSu5STQgrAUTPuPztwDEPQ29WIvHQUMIr7TiZYE/s320/DSCN2492.JPG" border="0" /></a> We'll have a brief discussion about the differences between German technique (frontpointing) and French technique (flatfooting) and of course American technique which generally takes the best of both worlds and combines them.</div><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbFMLiAPo9KnX8KVtBlgBH88ZesxO9HU9Uw5VCpPQiBCRI_sXcgC7_fb7kmDl196isa9VYb2Q7vJAnC3QqEt2zbpcRvRQTdy3RzhrIq2bBUOOm3d6_51fDmmDhMg8Z6DITXN5xIohu2ZSD/s1600-h/DSCN2496.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389146437471576610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbFMLiAPo9KnX8KVtBlgBH88ZesxO9HU9Uw5VCpPQiBCRI_sXcgC7_fb7kmDl196isa9VYb2Q7vJAnC3QqEt2zbpcRvRQTdy3RzhrIq2bBUOOm3d6_51fDmmDhMg8Z6DITXN5xIohu2ZSD/s320/DSCN2496.JPG" border="0" /></a>After this, we'll break into smaller groups and play follow the leader. We'll walk around on unexposed terrain and get aquinted w/ our crampons and ice axe in an area where a fall means a one foot skid.<br /></div><div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ep1YpyGTczfssN2e3c25KJ2ZQ16wn98Rp_B0io0GaSL_ymrgIynyVCrN15kp3rkNQ-9SUZQyD-mwLfuQaK1Xcvtuw0v1A-h0MbxLgHGM4ZOhNBglsfUv4IBprkr6LtqpEDxWNRUyHEtA/s1600-h/DSCN2508.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389146423193789922" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3ep1YpyGTczfssN2e3c25KJ2ZQ16wn98Rp_B0io0GaSL_ymrgIynyVCrN15kp3rkNQ-9SUZQyD-mwLfuQaK1Xcvtuw0v1A-h0MbxLgHGM4ZOhNBglsfUv4IBprkr6LtqpEDxWNRUyHEtA/s320/DSCN2508.JPG" border="0" /></a> Students will be able to choose the difficulty of their terrain. Some may opt for a 30 degree ramp and some will choose a short 60 degree wall. The goal isn't to see how hard of stuff you can climb but to get used to all of the different styles of climbing.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEMVadEQTdJaEpYgVSoCM29y1HcROEmkHp_kBKAc6Ij7BhTmbj9_Iu-GEvEJxt_H2gWI8054wiaiNNlTGyw3rayXqCccc4f60bjuyNgIJuphB0jtnvEiULNYpn-l9LljrjRX9_9pIb_mhX/s1600-h/DSCN2531.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389146416515830962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEMVadEQTdJaEpYgVSoCM29y1HcROEmkHp_kBKAc6Ij7BhTmbj9_Iu-GEvEJxt_H2gWI8054wiaiNNlTGyw3rayXqCccc4f60bjuyNgIJuphB0jtnvEiULNYpn-l9LljrjRX9_9pIb_mhX/s320/DSCN2531.JPG" border="0" /></a>There are lots of fancy names for all of the techniques. I can't speak French so I've made up my own names. The general goal will be to ascend different angled slopes and get an idea of which techniques work better on different terrain.<br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGixKRq-sBjnWCNRtrrb8rEtboAFC3B60hz0GjdsbqjpYwbvMqZUJK9RzIOyuhCONCsNbdntS8FryWj_7ZTL3eYy5JtKYWdRFIysd8nYMBW4YJGZWSdjw440kY63YAWAxCV0b2Y51JmY7a/s1600-h/DSCN2555.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389145874393197010" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGixKRq-sBjnWCNRtrrb8rEtboAFC3B60hz0GjdsbqjpYwbvMqZUJK9RzIOyuhCONCsNbdntS8FryWj_7ZTL3eYy5JtKYWdRFIysd8nYMBW4YJGZWSdjw440kY63YAWAxCV0b2Y51JmY7a/s320/DSCN2555.JPG" border="0" /></a> In the afternoon will rappel into crevasses and prussik out. The idea is that if you fall into a crevasse on a route, it wont be the first time you've been in one and you'll be prepared to prussik out. Prussiking out of a crevasse is alot faster than rigging a z-pulley.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj64kai1S1QnyS-W4uUR_Plo95yCUTmQAoBntx2Db-3eA0NNvDbtZjNY1Q6MGvsHU33PljquAECwQzqCALFw9nlHRmLboN7F1fi7TU3dV70VwsA4e33Ys6CRjdeJmDj0JWLJlEAKcvEO67r/s1600-h/DSCN2563.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389145863856175490" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj64kai1S1QnyS-W4uUR_Plo95yCUTmQAoBntx2Db-3eA0NNvDbtZjNY1Q6MGvsHU33PljquAECwQzqCALFw9nlHRmLboN7F1fi7TU3dV70VwsA4e33Ys6CRjdeJmDj0JWLJlEAKcvEO67r/s320/DSCN2563.JPG" border="0" /></a>We'll rap up around 5 pm and head back to camp for a fire and share stories from this years climbing season.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiADr1JLtM4DohdWGuOwpNg2aXLSdP33E7XFOKaK0Julk-nEuaDmPMUyVc1toUR6rgbE9H1iU3wcMQYlexv19Ma3Sqcz0qnbJBlqvU9tT9r7X5g_ZVdOt6hbuEQCBsuQJEjQlp01pKXVvQD/s1600-h/DSCN2585.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389145854457611938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiADr1JLtM4DohdWGuOwpNg2aXLSdP33E7XFOKaK0Julk-nEuaDmPMUyVc1toUR6rgbE9H1iU3wcMQYlexv19Ma3Sqcz0qnbJBlqvU9tT9r7X5g_ZVdOt6hbuEQCBsuQJEjQlp01pKXVvQD/s320/DSCN2585.JPG" border="0" /></a> On Sunday, we'll head back to the glacier and step it up just a bit. We'll rope up and play follow the leader on technical terrain. At climb school, you learned the basics of rope travel, now you'll get a chance to do it on real terrain.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq9ulQFBlUx3g3VMfPj1heD2_kQLyHoYgPAZj6RpP44l8eIJAvuD4F0pFjggKxmNHWQ8DZ0ffxPeJYq9R7g3lTW7nTlAy0sSlYAYV6Q8QJWRvo_6g2lVpWxXghOonIah6ag-5kmMPLNvJY/s1600-h/DSCN2586.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389145853833796658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq9ulQFBlUx3g3VMfPj1heD2_kQLyHoYgPAZj6RpP44l8eIJAvuD4F0pFjggKxmNHWQ8DZ0ffxPeJYq9R7g3lTW7nTlAy0sSlYAYV6Q8QJWRvo_6g2lVpWxXghOonIah6ag-5kmMPLNvJY/s320/DSCN2586.JPG" border="0" /></a>In the late morning, we'll rig the cliffs for some top roped climbing. This is the icing on top but it's not the primary goal of the class. During the course of the class, everybody will be able to chose what they're comfortable with and how much challenge they want.<br /><br /><br />Here's the basics.</div><div></div><div>Saturday 530 Meet at the Motor Pool</div><div>830 Arrive at cloud cap and set up camp</div><div>915 Head up tothe Elliot</div><div>600 Back at camp</div><div>Sunday 700 Breakfast</div><div>800 Head up to the glacier</div><div>300 Head back to camp.</div><div>Break camp and head home.</div><div></div><div>Gear:</div><div></div><div>Climbing: Harness, helmet, prussiks, belay device, gaiters, ice axe, crampons.</div><div></div><div>Clothing: Baselayers, windlayers, gloves (two pairs if you have them), hat, warm jacket, socks and undies.</div><div></div><div>Camping: Tent, toilet paper, gallon of water, sleeping pad, sleeping bag, headlamp, sit pad for glacier, camp chair, headlamp.</div><div></div><div></div><div>Food: Two lunches, one breakfast and one dinner. Lots of drinks and snacks. (You can pick your drinks for camp!) Stoves and dishes. </div><div></div><div><a href="http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=45.381090145612646&lon=-121.673583984375&site=pqr&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en">Elliot glacier weather</a></div><div></div><div>Directions to Cloud cap:</div><div></div><div>Take I5 N to the 205. Exit 12, Right on 212, vere to stay on the 212, Right on hwy 26. Merge to the 35. Take Highway 35 from Hood River and follow it until the turn off to Cooper Spur Skiarea, aproximately 23 miles past the town. Drive an other 2 1/2 miles to the Cooper Spur Skiarea (signs), and from there take forest service road 3512 towards Cloud Cap Inn/Tilly Jane. Park at the campground. This road can get rough sometimes over it's entire length of 9 miles<br /></div><div>You may want to mapquest it to the play by play directions.</div><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-16050982539240696662009-09-24T11:10:00.000-07:002009-09-24T16:23:36.565-07:00Enchantments Volume 2: Dragontail<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_DIwrj67ImV2ibi5aP81ExmJGAVlig1WqKkJyf5dlBlqwwIxmiGGpl8j9qp8FzXasQl15svKkPcu7JgJnocMi-PubLbI8N2pRllP1hwl80qA_-I0NyWeK6NF7svQpI8KqJYenuGsV-ML/s1600-h/Enchantments_2009+018.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385100342895937394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf_DIwrj67ImV2ibi5aP81ExmJGAVlig1WqKkJyf5dlBlqwwIxmiGGpl8j9qp8FzXasQl15svKkPcu7JgJnocMi-PubLbI8N2pRllP1hwl80qA_-I0NyWeK6NF7svQpI8KqJYenuGsV-ML/s320/Enchantments_2009+018.JPG" border="0" /></a> Dragontail Peak has as beautiful of a North Wall as you'll find in the Cascades. You can see that it has a tidy bowl green lake at its base, it's separated from Colchuk Peak on the West by the Colchuk glacier and it's solid granite, right? On our second day in the Enchanments Amy and I decided we'd head out and climb the 1600' Serpentine Arete. It was graded at a modest 5.8. It looked like there would be only 4-6 pitches of sustained rock. I guessed we'd be on route for 8 hours or so.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA_fGXzdapk6VQUwg_aQS4TxtaHyPayymDZbWrYWsMzLhhqGJe2G2G_LY0v0M5Z6jUQlxB_vtRHW3mtqF-s_fRCPamNzKUyWMLaGnHs0jbFP6l83is4sZOD4nwe5R9H7NgJ8MWuX-d2nUX/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+119.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385100332307378114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA_fGXzdapk6VQUwg_aQS4TxtaHyPayymDZbWrYWsMzLhhqGJe2G2G_LY0v0M5Z6jUQlxB_vtRHW3mtqF-s_fRCPamNzKUyWMLaGnHs0jbFP6l83is4sZOD4nwe5R9H7NgJ8MWuX-d2nUX/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+119.JPG" border="0" /></a> When we left camp in the morning the rest of the crew bid us farewell? I had an odd feeling that they weren't sure if they'd every see us again. For me, I thought I was going on a little climb, they were treating us like we were walking the plank. You'll notice I didn't say we left camp "early" in the morning.</div><div></div><div>John Petrie always says there's no downside to starting early. I always agree w/ him in conversations. In recent weeks, I found myself leaving Smith in the pitch black, cleaning routes w/ a headlamp. I had twice narrowly gotten back to the trail before nightfall. Just last week, we rapped up a ten pitch route finishing the last pitch w/ headlamps and doing the route finding and rappelling in the dark. In many ways, the "success's" go to your head. I had this confidence/arrogance that told me that no matter what, I'll get it done. In lots of ways, I think I did some real skill building but more than that, I had started some bad habits. On snow, I don't mess around, but on rock, I've made it routine to start routes 4 hours later than guide book time. I'm not trying to sound tough, I'm just trying to learn from my mistakes and hopefully, others can learn from them as well. As the saying goes, "once is an accident, twice is a pattern, three times is a problem."<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8T98MqJFWjZ9uTAP01cwoIDBpaEXxnbD7bDcOLLgaxDxhrQ6LrEACu25_NNvL2wvGTahJg2bhZ-yAn4T5x3zruhyphenhyphenltM_68QPpuhO5iGd-ok6y8zhvLWo72fL-nZQADaLG1wX24Bl1Q0h/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+126.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385100132679123858" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA8T98MqJFWjZ9uTAP01cwoIDBpaEXxnbD7bDcOLLgaxDxhrQ6LrEACu25_NNvL2wvGTahJg2bhZ-yAn4T5x3zruhyphenhyphenltM_68QPpuhO5iGd-ok6y8zhvLWo72fL-nZQADaLG1wX24Bl1Q0h/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+126.JPG" border="0" /></a> We roped up sometime between 10 and 11 am maybe even after eleven by the time the belay was on:-( After spending a bit of time trying to make certain we were starting in the right spot, we were off. We had 16 pitches of rock to climb and not much time to do it. I have to admit, I love the feeling. My heart is starting to race just thinking about it. The route starts out w/ four crumbly pitches. Each rope length had a few mid fifth class moves but it was generally just low angle blocks/choss. We probably should of simul-climbed but I wanted to give the Momma some time to warm up to the exposure.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxpEdRprTTCIeWN3XiCvYrwPbAQTPizGGLUK_n9eqtUdomV_g6z9-9vMWZUEQJ9E_0QvTIwPaI07-TgISIFdXW_zeUXxPdv80ohWMA2u6BJDsuGA8A5RJhi7Nwh-c7J1fO_29S5cyimwp/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+127.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385100120935127538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHxpEdRprTTCIeWN3XiCvYrwPbAQTPizGGLUK_n9eqtUdomV_g6z9-9vMWZUEQJ9E_0QvTIwPaI07-TgISIFdXW_zeUXxPdv80ohWMA2u6BJDsuGA8A5RJhi7Nwh-c7J1fO_29S5cyimwp/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+127.JPG" border="0" /></a>One pitch ends at a tree and the view is spectacular. The fourth or fifth pitch starts out w/ some route finding. There' are several dihedral's that all look like they would go and several looked like they got climbed somewhat frequently. I ended up finding the best way up a 5.6 ish tower that lead to the base of the off-width pitch. In my head, I imagined a vertical, wide crack. What I got was more of an awkward chimney thing. You have to "protect" it about ten feet below the move unless you brought a 7 inch cam. If I fell, I'd land on the ground. It turned out to be a bit of a gruntfest but it was pretty secure. Amy glided up it! I don't know how she does it sometimes. The reward for getting up the off-width is about 70' of choss. I had to place pro to direct the line away from the chossy ledge. It looked like a dump truck came and dumped two loads of football sized blocks on the pitch. But, I have been dubbed the "Hoss of Choss," so I felt right at home.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw1s-NjocT0V-74oSlkhCJSbyffsgVrrU-mbbGBtHxUfm_BRFJDSue8Pi2w7BUr9A6xhLYDFSA35qw6wgdecBHz_sLV2rZRvnl50M172hR03_YWwXs4dkv7J_qhUys5bQCtdwWfrwR-i7s/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+131.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385100114404848530" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 250px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw1s-NjocT0V-74oSlkhCJSbyffsgVrrU-mbbGBtHxUfm_BRFJDSue8Pi2w7BUr9A6xhLYDFSA35qw6wgdecBHz_sLV2rZRvnl50M172hR03_YWwXs4dkv7J_qhUys5bQCtdwWfrwR-i7s/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+131.JPG" border="0" /></a> Finally we get to the crux pitch and some real granite. It seemed like the time was flying by but after reconsiderring, it's not so much that the time flew by as much as I just didn't leave us much of it. You can see that I was still wearing that stupid grin that says, "no trouble here." </div><div></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioCAFll3fSs6_1L3l7Lny1TC07laC1DF4ZuYYZMKgYYUWPcouhh4icEoZN8eZsHlwg6nECU4GbmWB6gbLI6mIzvgtMmCY4Lw3VHG05bh7A1wX2mKBUeBpMjfCjeS7Fh_07K2_MbnskGuzE/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+132.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385100106387822898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioCAFll3fSs6_1L3l7Lny1TC07laC1DF4ZuYYZMKgYYUWPcouhh4icEoZN8eZsHlwg6nECU4GbmWB6gbLI6mIzvgtMmCY4Lw3VHG05bh7A1wX2mKBUeBpMjfCjeS7Fh_07K2_MbnskGuzE/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+132.JPG" border="0" /></a>You reach a headwall w/ three options/variations. To the left, there's a 5.8 dihedral that looked pretty easy. The money crack was dead center. Most of the trip reports recommend going all the way to the right for a fun not sustained 5.7 broken crack system. You can probably guess that I went w/ the more difficult central crack. Cracks are hard to give a difficulty rating. If you have big hands (that's me) big cracks look easy. If you have small hands, small cracks are perfect. The route I chose started w/ a very tight seam, you almost can't see it behind the rope in the pic above. </div><div></div><div>The discription says that you'll start w/ finger locks. For my sausage fingers, all I got was a pinky to thumb smear/pinch. After several desperate moves, you get to a flaring but shallow crack. It was actually pretty secure and I was able to get some good nut placements. I heard rocks breaking loose and tumbling down the glacier below us. The sounds would echo and reverberate for minutes. I looked down and saw Amy's concerned expression on the belay ledge, behind her Colchuk Lake. I was in my element. </div><div></div><div>Than I pinched the rope between my foot jamb and the crack's side. I couldn't go up any further. I panicked for half a second. When I regrouped, my focus was sharp. My options: fall while I was still close to my last peice, down climb or place a peice of gear and hang on it while I freed the rope. I wasn't really in the mood to fall. The last move was the hardest move on the pitch and I didn't think I could down climb it which would lead me back to option one; falling. I placed an overhead cam but couldn't bring myself to hang on it. I didn't hike all the way back here and swim through the choss to hang on gear. This is what it's all about for me. I summoned the force and was able to reverse the moves, free the rope and then clip my trusty .75 green camalot. I love this stuff. Amy thinks I'm madder than a hatter and I tend to agree w/ her.</div><div></div><div>The last 50' are a perfect hand crack w/ chicken heads for feet. I was able to ration both of my one inch cams for this stretch and when I got to the top, I was psyched. I can't say that this was a super hard pitch and that I'm an exceptional climber but I can say that it was hard for me and stepping up to challenges feels good even if they're self-inflicted. It doesn't matter if it's 5.5 or 5.12.</div><div></div><div>I was also pleased that Amy didn't glide up this section and that she had to work hard for it.</div><div></div><div>The next pitch was the most fun pitch of the route. I didn't pinch the rope w/ my foot or pull any other obsurdities and it went too fast.<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVZk6kapwBqbl3OFy9d2_g1zo689WeaRd05xU2xp34qHIjtSvKtZztgFmlnuLMwcvDdY1LS0OTzQOT6V8f8vLrOfJ-72vZuQrmvnWWklVpbfD__ufXFzZIQIw1Luj1MoMo1zxNhcy3FfVu/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+134.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385100096221932690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVZk6kapwBqbl3OFy9d2_g1zo689WeaRd05xU2xp34qHIjtSvKtZztgFmlnuLMwcvDdY1LS0OTzQOT6V8f8vLrOfJ-72vZuQrmvnWWklVpbfD__ufXFzZIQIw1Luj1MoMo1zxNhcy3FfVu/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+134.JPG" border="0" /></a>We didn't take any more pics till the morning but I wanted break up all of the words w/ some pics. Here's me in the morning w/ Stuart in the sunlight. I think it's obvious now that we started too late?</div><div></div><div>OK back to yesterday. We finished the last of the crux pitches and we had eight pitches to go but only a couple hours before sunset. Should we stop at the next good ledge and settle in? Heck no. </div><div></div><div>I brought Amy up to the easier ground and broke down the situation for her. She was clearly tired. I didn't want to freak her out but I wanted to express urgency. My other climbing partners can attest that I get grouchy/serious when things are getting serious. I get kind of bossy. I don't have a problem "encouraging" people to hury up. Saying things like "If we can't move faster, we're going to be sleeping in a hanging belay." It's alot different when its my wife! One cross word and she'll throw me off the mountain! To the rest of the world, I'm a tough guy, to Amy, I'm just a chump who needs an adjustment. </div><div></div><div>I gave her my best Mel Gibson speech (think Braveheart) and we were off like a rocket. This was the first time Amy had to dig deep on a climb. She surprised herself w/ how much energy she was able to muster. We simul-climbed the last eight pitches w/ one fixed belay to get the gear back on my harness. We had 100' to go. The crack looked hard but it went easily and five minutes later, I climbed the pitch and had the belay built. I got to the summit and let out a giant scream! I could hear the people at camp recipricate. It looked like I was going to get away w/ another one! I belayed Amy up and we were able to get radio communication w/ the Wild One and the rest of the folks at camp.<br /></div><div>They expressed that they thought it would be best if we settle in for a cold and miserable but safe evening rather than stumble off a cliff.</div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwf9lVFU5s0QYk-HeNQOXBDaKOj8c6b6efiC5mU2k2BUYyBUjG9EL-XR-dygC3PwIcniKvKGzCbzdfMo1NI_TU2x6w4guIKxe58DYKjPZVJuAD1A9-ob5hseGYcB47TsoHu4J3sJGXiImr/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+135.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385099717879176818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwf9lVFU5s0QYk-HeNQOXBDaKOj8c6b6efiC5mU2k2BUYyBUjG9EL-XR-dygC3PwIcniKvKGzCbzdfMo1NI_TU2x6w4guIKxe58DYKjPZVJuAD1A9-ob5hseGYcB47TsoHu4J3sJGXiImr/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+135.JPG" border="0" /></a> I was still pounding my chest and there was no way I was gonna bivy w/out a fight. The standard decent was melted out and sketchy w/ rock fall. Sketchy is my middle name? Bill began describing the alternate decent when our radios lost communication for no apparent reason. I firmly believe that this was God's way of showing me that I'm an idiot and it's time to pay for my idiocy. Since I'm writing this, you can guess that I didn't pay the "ultimate price" but I think I'm on a layaway plan.<br /></div><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkpumN5sfbc47EHkJHvJPVhFDH1ID7pi_3ybYosFSW04-SCEpOvJLrmtq9-69s1z5J4g1IGldT8ZEag7KLs5DSHL1WHg8vCQHKQptY84TSIUEhiKDAS39L_Jnz0RMlmSePHWlfpChS0EQ/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+136.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385099711416108002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxkpumN5sfbc47EHkJHvJPVhFDH1ID7pi_3ybYosFSW04-SCEpOvJLrmtq9-69s1z5J4g1IGldT8ZEag7KLs5DSHL1WHg8vCQHKQptY84TSIUEhiKDAS39L_Jnz0RMlmSePHWlfpChS0EQ/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+136.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Amy, grateful to find the cairn in the morning that marked the decent route. I'll always remember the relief.</span></div><span style="color:#000000;"></span></div><div></div><div align="left">We wandered around in the dark but I soon realized it was time to give it up. I had made a terrible decision to start so late in the day on a Grade IV route. (Grade IV means that competent parties will need all of a day for the technical, roped sections of the climb that involves serious remote alpine terrain) I could press on and heap more bad choices on to the first one or I could sit down and have an XL portion of humble pie.</div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">At first we cuddled and enjoyed the stars. We played the "remember when game" and life was good. It was real good. I underestimated the length of the route and Amy dealt w/ it gracefully. She climbed hard and her attitude was awesome. </div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">Then life was grim, real grim. I was laying so I was blocking the wind from Amy (It was time to start taking my lumps) and I got very cold. I was trembling and I couldn't imagine spending the rest of the night shaking like a leaf, plus I was bored. We wandered around some more and we finally found some water. We tanked up and life was good. Than it was cold again.</div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">We settled into another bivy. This time we sat tobagan style and I was warm. I dozed for most of an hour when I woke to Amy trembling. So we walked some more. Soon it was light and we found the above mentioned cairn and life was good again.<br /></div><div align="left"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhZbmjswlWEGwu-K43wS7l5jkURTOBdJ6KPNxaPeWC55-eHJf-v-U72mDgZ9H6etiBphXCykafxF569hU5ioCIW_SmDcTnIaZo_rQ0EgQnHJ8qY5yJDyJ_TYTEXEn3pPl3DCtH95uwQ0Da/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+137.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385099697230112274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhZbmjswlWEGwu-K43wS7l5jkURTOBdJ6KPNxaPeWC55-eHJf-v-U72mDgZ9H6etiBphXCykafxF569hU5ioCIW_SmDcTnIaZo_rQ0EgQnHJ8qY5yJDyJ_TYTEXEn3pPl3DCtH95uwQ0Da/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+137.JPG" border="0" /></a>From the cairn, we could see down to our camp. It's on the for side of the two lakes in the above pic. We felt bad that we had everybody at camp worried. They said it was cold in their tents, in their sleeping bags and that they didn't feel bad for me, but for Amy they did. I get what I deserve besides me and misery are old mates. They greeted us w/ tea and it was nice to be at camp w/ friends. As we told our tale, somehow the cold just became words and the fun pitches became "amazing pitches." The night "went fast" and we were already talking about how next time, we'll leave earlier. You know you've had a hard night when Bill is sight for sore eyes!<br /></div><div align="left"><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg52IYd5VdVcaFo9uS3J45aCgGPX8iYXN6N5T9PUvCHKMB-9rY_4Sb20FbsOcF0M-4kfYZ-NMgUp9_SMptksfDv_w8Nsi8iPHMd1IUbpNVowXe7YIv8VGlAgyZ1dQRABHD-stq9EwFQBT2m/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+146.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385099681202040770" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg52IYd5VdVcaFo9uS3J45aCgGPX8iYXN6N5T9PUvCHKMB-9rY_4Sb20FbsOcF0M-4kfYZ-NMgUp9_SMptksfDv_w8Nsi8iPHMd1IUbpNVowXe7YIv8VGlAgyZ1dQRABHD-stq9EwFQBT2m/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+146.JPG" border="0" /></a> The following day, we didn't go far from camp and this was the only view I had till about 300pm. Amy hasn't left me for somebody a little more domestic who thinks a good vacation involves hotel rooms and window shopping. She's also made it clear that next time, we're taking a freaking blanket. It's hard to not feel like the luckiest man in the world.</div><div></div><div>Light n fast only works when you give yourself the benefit of time. Otherwise your just cold n miserable. Had we left a half hour earlier, or climbed a half hour faster, we would have made it back to camp w/ headlamps and I'd still be running around thinking I can do grade IV's in a half day. We would have slept in our tents. In some ways that just doesn't make a good story. </div><div></div><div>Two good things came from my poor judgement on our start time. First, I've learned that I should take some basic bivy provisions when I climb grade IV's, especially if I'm going to do them when the daylight hours are few and the start time is wreckless. The second good thing; we had an extra dinner at camp!</div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-67781126447039296352009-09-24T10:58:00.000-07:002009-09-24T16:45:59.945-07:00Enchantments Volume 1<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4WP2hg9alNZE2S8kY7ooyTc3sgeaZMMe8xmi_JK8vgnrPRLxpej4pT4yE0QDbQwdg9hUNDANIZKZ1lqRAZuGLHBrp-45HoUW8mJ7g7lhj1B2wDwj-ljUv1vTYVMFnMdKXgtw3S6LA4i1_/s1600-h/Enchantments_2009+011.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097929469408002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4WP2hg9alNZE2S8kY7ooyTc3sgeaZMMe8xmi_JK8vgnrPRLxpej4pT4yE0QDbQwdg9hUNDANIZKZ1lqRAZuGLHBrp-45HoUW8mJ7g7lhj1B2wDwj-ljUv1vTYVMFnMdKXgtw3S6LA4i1_/s320/Enchantments_2009+011.JPG" border="0" /></a> After having spent one of the last five nights, in an actual bed, Amy and I caught up w/ the Enchantments crew. Wild Bill (actually, very wild bill would be more appropriate) secured permits for four nights in the Enchantments. It looked like we'd be spending four more nights in a tent, or would we?<br /><br />The crew: the Head Honcho, Jerry "Tomb Raider" Croft, Joanna Picchi (I think she's some how related to Benjamin Button), John "One Kneed" Coyier, my little cousin Rosario (you can call her Goosie), Amy (AKA Little Momma) and Me the Chemexican.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-n-AtWkSBeBfjtmRuXoVznjLfxAUtyQVqAQSkY881AeM9BSDs0XsLvjTVt1VhMfTDNSYdk0LgW0SHcA1VRo1t89rsXpNXUxv06OjsS221klDrdupsPbXI3INNbnz7o2V5WYesYn8KgV4Y/s1600-h/Enchantments_2009+014.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097781202205506" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-n-AtWkSBeBfjtmRuXoVznjLfxAUtyQVqAQSkY881AeM9BSDs0XsLvjTVt1VhMfTDNSYdk0LgW0SHcA1VRo1t89rsXpNXUxv06OjsS221klDrdupsPbXI3INNbnz7o2V5WYesYn8KgV4Y/s320/Enchantments_2009+014.JPG" border="0" /></a> We were lucky enough to have a sunny and clear forecast for the whole trip! I had plans to climb everything in site so I took most of my climbing gear. We'd be out for several days and I was growing tired of stewing in my own juices so I brought lots of clothes. All of this added up to a heavy pack. I haven't carried a pack this big since my first year climbing, you can see from the look on my face, I wasn't digging it. Nothing light n fast about this guy.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFRcDAqXn-fo6UhyvAzWGWpIJ1NoWhqKBNT1QCqoknNRTDpm038BoeGk-V5RW1ROzu_WQWXPMehr7CagWNt9ICQ-iSLFPwnR4J4NRCC1WoUVV4Nn8nFjPVodC_q3pYAqhzyxFHvao8FwZ/s1600-h/Enchantments_2009+035.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097773737559554" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 238px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXFRcDAqXn-fo6UhyvAzWGWpIJ1NoWhqKBNT1QCqoknNRTDpm038BoeGk-V5RW1ROzu_WQWXPMehr7CagWNt9ICQ-iSLFPwnR4J4NRCC1WoUVV4Nn8nFjPVodC_q3pYAqhzyxFHvao8FwZ/s320/Enchantments_2009+035.JPG" border="0" /></a> We reached the dreaded Aasgard Pass too soon. The path was more solid than the other times I've been in the area and it wasn't as bad as I remembered.</div><div></div><div>Before I get too far along, I want stop and thank Bill and Haydar. My first year I signed up for climb Haydar led up an obscure little peak in the N Cascades named Snow King. Had I not gone on that trip, I likely wouldn't have fallen in love w/ the N Cascades, thus I wouldn't have met Bill, then I wouldn't have been on this trip. Though this isn't the N Cascades, it's definetly a ways off most new climbers radar. What I'm trying to say is this: Go climb weird stuff!<br /><br />Colchuk Lake is a pristine lake that sits at the foot of Colchuk Peak and Dragontail. It's a beautiful area and I'm glad that it's protected by the permit system. (Especially since we had permits)<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUtSG12uW8xLoKw1WVaBZpyfbF2hvpWAw-podCfX6IuovYrhTb0MF-b2KlaZ9zKhEDD1iKkAuv0Srv8w1KLqiib_GUnoZpDw0vw8Hje7DOQUcPoYkbq3VisFysOK-1wapbljUMIYJfkbn/s1600-h/Enchantments_2009+026.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097763625429890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilUtSG12uW8xLoKw1WVaBZpyfbF2hvpWAw-podCfX6IuovYrhTb0MF-b2KlaZ9zKhEDD1iKkAuv0Srv8w1KLqiib_GUnoZpDw0vw8Hje7DOQUcPoYkbq3VisFysOK-1wapbljUMIYJfkbn/s320/Enchantments_2009+026.JPG" border="0" /></a>The other times I'd been to this area I was doing car-to-car stuff and I was elated that I wouldn't be hiking in and out on the same day. Beautiful weather, great company and no set itenerary, Life Is Good!<br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDJWOPsngh7JfLZBhBbwDpktWnsKDEdQmVPaIqVZgSPQPamSQ4GZ4xfJhApNosKXg93EstQwFNaeOdPs3j1aBq-hF5BiMzhKIqct4mVa0hlV6i3LxwQjGTAS73DRx6Oy9_BogqsMcLIdNI/s1600-h/Enchantments_2009+028.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097750681621538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDJWOPsngh7JfLZBhBbwDpktWnsKDEdQmVPaIqVZgSPQPamSQ4GZ4xfJhApNosKXg93EstQwFNaeOdPs3j1aBq-hF5BiMzhKIqct4mVa0hlV6i3LxwQjGTAS73DRx6Oy9_BogqsMcLIdNI/s320/Enchantments_2009+028.JPG" border="0" /></a> Above, the Momma poses by the lake. Scott Phillips, does the peak on the skyline look familiar? I know we didn't actually get to "see" it the day we were climbing it but there she is. It's hard to believe how far Amy has come as a climber remembering back to our trip on the distant Cashmere Peak.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAITS6T5_NJNTgDydWAbEdqJbOQDg4KUxQoEmgConTX-IudPLb0E5XocCa7URhVP83dvbX2BfYsszbc_u3i36FWQsT7HSM3HSUrkeFoy_J7H1rcc-HY1ZsY_o0NoG9SZUGtObjIqM9jBc6/s1600-h/Enchantments_2009+034.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097164878680290" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAITS6T5_NJNTgDydWAbEdqJbOQDg4KUxQoEmgConTX-IudPLb0E5XocCa7URhVP83dvbX2BfYsszbc_u3i36FWQsT7HSM3HSUrkeFoy_J7H1rcc-HY1ZsY_o0NoG9SZUGtObjIqM9jBc6/s320/Enchantments_2009+034.JPG" border="0" /></a>You can see the NW Buttress of Balanced rock peak in the backdrop. That's the problem. I go to an area, I see something and next thing you know, I'm scheming to climb it. Where will the madness end?<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9L9Bnb_R2D1h-ZFBx62trBjGAfnaZSRkFMNuI9ZxI3eNng3tmRveFFB96cufihXcQdPqd6kfwtHIYXdoA-kQDISc7HUi-0y-FcwaNYBAqmVSyKz9wG_TSRrAaGX-y_Lxed6zd79B2-JAF/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+151.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097156489263442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9L9Bnb_R2D1h-ZFBx62trBjGAfnaZSRkFMNuI9ZxI3eNng3tmRveFFB96cufihXcQdPqd6kfwtHIYXdoA-kQDISc7HUi-0y-FcwaNYBAqmVSyKz9wG_TSRrAaGX-y_Lxed6zd79B2-JAF/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+151.JPG" border="0" /></a>We made camp high in the basin. These boulders became the Dinner Table. It was nice we were able able to camp close together. The conversations amongst these rocks are some of the most memorable moments of the trip. I can't really "remember" what we talked about but I know it was good.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsVr2ZbsRxwM-JhmhDsHWQIO7A91PdGVN8ZL0EsHRNxlgHpx8_g9lhI8rT2vfOh_DuZFeN3fm-HmQrWYcoOSN4Adofdp2Ht6yfq1RXc29XRSrp1fz0JkQb8rslbR0guboOuC3LFFdN7pN/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+066.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097150417107330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWsVr2ZbsRxwM-JhmhDsHWQIO7A91PdGVN8ZL0EsHRNxlgHpx8_g9lhI8rT2vfOh_DuZFeN3fm-HmQrWYcoOSN4Adofdp2Ht6yfq1RXc29XRSrp1fz0JkQb8rslbR0guboOuC3LFFdN7pN/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+066.JPG" border="0" /></a>I proposed climbing the W Ridge of Prussik Peak. The Tomb Raider and surprisingly, Wild Bill took me up on the offer. The W Ridge is a super classic route on perfect rock. If only it was longer. As we decended towards Prussik, there was more vegetation and the lakes were mesmerizing. Some places, it was hard to tell where the granite stopped and the reflection started. I hadn't been this far into the basin and I was blown away.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkrNCINVBxqK7dY2NC3MyZvFDyPiXFsh43HMOA9CEI5EU-WBm36YoBFbq1nqSoFH0e2P_nObT7D0GB4Oj8pD2dZ6atV9p2RjBccqp6e9LpFTDgthby09DQJ4koIyxk1PL2OD-7c80MvFJR/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+068.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097141965589138" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkrNCINVBxqK7dY2NC3MyZvFDyPiXFsh43HMOA9CEI5EU-WBm36YoBFbq1nqSoFH0e2P_nObT7D0GB4Oj8pD2dZ6atV9p2RjBccqp6e9LpFTDgthby09DQJ4koIyxk1PL2OD-7c80MvFJR/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+068.JPG" border="0" /></a> The Billies were everywhere. As some of you know, I'm scared of big animals (cows, horses, Vincent Dunn) so I kept my distance. I'd gladly take on a man w/ a hatchet before I go near a dairy cow or a horned mountain goat. I think they smell my fear.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxrEQIoGPSwCHW_JfQB4Fo8msHXjTiupnwazMdo9bmf23aDMHOlEcbefNqn4H6lqATdyVuFrfPGpIdESfKIykgL1sCki0Uir1CExQeRTNWcYKXHr0Zsops4hOnH8MN3psV3XnFSTUo2AMk/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+069.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385097130614684898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxrEQIoGPSwCHW_JfQB4Fo8msHXjTiupnwazMdo9bmf23aDMHOlEcbefNqn4H6lqATdyVuFrfPGpIdESfKIykgL1sCki0Uir1CExQeRTNWcYKXHr0Zsops4hOnH8MN3psV3XnFSTUo2AMk/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+069.JPG" border="0" /></a> I sneaked this pic of Amy in front of one lakes. We've been to some pretty awesome places and we do our best not to take any of it for granted. As climbers we all have alot to be grateful for. Health, resources, friends and the fact that we have so much freedom. We're in the mountains because we want to be there, not as refugees. <div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ0txfgTvUWO7CqVeqy5qwaXjgVd8EoxSSJbHIXWBgyA7IM1OZ8OW33sK4UVNfzrmodFXklwbYB-9qY0QQM8e1UhsSRwPrFqwPfB4piwzyHDCWnNkE9fU4xaPvgwz2GKWo3ljpD5pBG471/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+077.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096713755272850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ0txfgTvUWO7CqVeqy5qwaXjgVd8EoxSSJbHIXWBgyA7IM1OZ8OW33sK4UVNfzrmodFXklwbYB-9qY0QQM8e1UhsSRwPrFqwPfB4piwzyHDCWnNkE9fU4xaPvgwz2GKWo3ljpD5pBG471/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+077.JPG" border="0" /></a> This family of billy's lived in the meadow below Prussik. I could show you a thousand more pics but I think you get the "picture."<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIa4-6v_mG4ts_l5-Fa_2QODkmkRKZb3O-z1QN6Q8c3Omsrqc81kzv5I1xgA1f0fvHKQfeM6GLzPZruMeBpFgj108J-no4AR5Vo-TmLAEC0ibGrfGrCC2-xx3IlXHB6vnlxvi5XcDAqkQz/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+073.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096708245127618" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIa4-6v_mG4ts_l5-Fa_2QODkmkRKZb3O-z1QN6Q8c3Omsrqc81kzv5I1xgA1f0fvHKQfeM6GLzPZruMeBpFgj108J-no4AR5Vo-TmLAEC0ibGrfGrCC2-xx3IlXHB6vnlxvi5XcDAqkQz/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+073.JPG" border="0" /></a> As beautiful as it was, I'm a climber, not a sight see'er. This is the classic shot of Prussik w/ the three of us almost ruining the picture. So this is the before shot, look closely at Bill's knees.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiw-VSnx0GUm4btAzE-jGFl1Pyg25R67bpjLFUUJESawfNLmN6sq_B3DV3bU2EwldjPFuBeAIHQQlIJEIj3MXhH6HxVm1mQwfxpn2gV5OgacRlgBtwX_rHSf_jEhFiD5hPB0K5Gy_1gjbm/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+083.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096700624825522" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiw-VSnx0GUm4btAzE-jGFl1Pyg25R67bpjLFUUJESawfNLmN6sq_B3DV3bU2EwldjPFuBeAIHQQlIJEIj3MXhH6HxVm1mQwfxpn2gV5OgacRlgBtwX_rHSf_jEhFiD5hPB0K5Gy_1gjbm/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+083.JPG" border="0" /></a> The three of us hiked up to the base of the mountain, we're racking up and downsizing to two packs. I took my rock shoes, half a liter of water and a bagel. Bill brought 7 lbs of food, three layers of clothes and rain gear, the only thing he was missing was a watermelon. Jerry brought a normal amount of stuff. Bill says he's afraid we'll end up having to bivy. If we had, he brought enough stuff that we could have weathered four days of sunshine and still gained weight.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEb2L-EE5uB3g1pzeLz5yFbp9Ra0-ll6UbcLmfbF3iUk8mXPO0mdbR8LG0gkmsTQzvr-jKQlo7gbzmuy54AVy4A-zYt0r8wtxEt8-GFAk92tznbKmVLeO1ydJOBHC6Mu3klO_FaAhaSPgj/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+089.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096691180519426" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEb2L-EE5uB3g1pzeLz5yFbp9Ra0-ll6UbcLmfbF3iUk8mXPO0mdbR8LG0gkmsTQzvr-jKQlo7gbzmuy54AVy4A-zYt0r8wtxEt8-GFAk92tznbKmVLeO1ydJOBHC6Mu3klO_FaAhaSPgj/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+089.JPG" border="0" /></a> It was hard to tell where the scrambling stopped and the climbing started. I think I crossed the line somewhere. I found myself frictioning and liebacking before I realized that maybe the rope shouldn't be in my pack? If you click the pic, you'll see Bill in the red shirt and John Coyier "scrambling" along side to try and get some good pics.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSXU1vleVHVi4kZA2NECLpw8suXBA2AdUMRfawS07aEYeZ6JxmIZYCm_NT3IEggvCM46dKHIqEWYbdNdJLqVgkY80pW2ctzwppuQzjU0ZAjNIemBxnUyWT2TsG1_WtS6hXdcRCzczqfp11/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+101.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096679841702770" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSXU1vleVHVi4kZA2NECLpw8suXBA2AdUMRfawS07aEYeZ6JxmIZYCm_NT3IEggvCM46dKHIqEWYbdNdJLqVgkY80pW2ctzwppuQzjU0ZAjNIemBxnUyWT2TsG1_WtS6hXdcRCzczqfp11/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+101.JPG" border="0" /></a>If you click the above pic, you can see the Wild One and Jerry beginning the scary slab pitch. They're in the notch in between the lower two horns. I know it looks like Jerry is giving Bill a piggy back but I want to assure everybody that type of "aid" climbing didn't take place. I'd take an overhung 5.10 over a 5.7 unprotectable slab any day. Since there weren't any overhangs, I had to friction up the the slab.<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibv0RiR8Zqaz3KfR13dcHDKYXSG6BIYZz-czI2jE2SmxCnRQ9Muop1IpI2PJAgyZG-VC8QBT8bGahI4Dn65wYhm7dn7mqU1achNoXebvIaNgcSUdD5sYK2Es4VB0HnsVl_2JY75lX_qTiY/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+116.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096304480165362" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibv0RiR8Zqaz3KfR13dcHDKYXSG6BIYZz-czI2jE2SmxCnRQ9Muop1IpI2PJAgyZG-VC8QBT8bGahI4Dn65wYhm7dn7mqU1achNoXebvIaNgcSUdD5sYK2Es4VB0HnsVl_2JY75lX_qTiY/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+116.JPG" border="0" /></a> There's some traversing, some slab climbing and a really cool dihedral that leads to the summit chimney. The dihedral works better as a lieback than as a stem or a smear. Jerry coached Bill through this point. I can't express in words (non-curse words) how funny it was to hear Bill "work his way" through this portion of climbing. I thought his head was going to explode.</div><div>As you can see, we all made it to the top.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgxUPWdFbIL1yY5LdcfjPLsuTm2O5Uf7JLxxBrHdtdUNGxo1gZ97OSvawA5YK1rQoo2Qp9W1B6jyNDXs4DnUDxNraFhCofThH-N7U2N36s_sDTYr1Cui82nFA0UNOhZVcz-OOKlcl2n21d/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+117.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096293323031602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgxUPWdFbIL1yY5LdcfjPLsuTm2O5Uf7JLxxBrHdtdUNGxo1gZ97OSvawA5YK1rQoo2Qp9W1B6jyNDXs4DnUDxNraFhCofThH-N7U2N36s_sDTYr1Cui82nFA0UNOhZVcz-OOKlcl2n21d/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+117.JPG" border="0" /></a> About a month ago, I took some green horns up the Monkey Face. This trip, I was the new guy. It was great climb w/ the ole vets of the club. If you look at the pic close up, you'll see something that I've only seen this one time. Bill looks proud of himself. What's not to be proud of? I wont say how old he is but I'll say this: Amy is 31 and Bill is twice her age! If I can send Alpine 5.7 when I'm his age, I'll make my own commercial so everybody can know how hard I rock.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7w-BfA1dKczwLBc1IGyjnAV2hIMAgco7km8LmCX6S3-LjsdQGQburEnE3pKswC7FO6qInV1r8g_kvLH6-PGA8z7UxZZrRN8tbAbhBXRlt4t1VpvgKd4gFhhZ6CIy5cTWd2mChvwtbgHo/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+118.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096283957794786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR7w-BfA1dKczwLBc1IGyjnAV2hIMAgco7km8LmCX6S3-LjsdQGQburEnE3pKswC7FO6qInV1r8g_kvLH6-PGA8z7UxZZrRN8tbAbhBXRlt4t1VpvgKd4gFhhZ6CIy5cTWd2mChvwtbgHo/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+118.JPG" border="0" /></a>So it wasn't all fun and games. The next day when all of the abrasions set up as scabs, Bill's legs were 25 percent covered.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi53-l21Udi789276BQTv3kKWbe0N7jlEejQnlyDcIELy8cMEnd7FVFuiBRIbm1yWH-B1E6ESVXoSUPnDIAxR1M2TJSnI7vOQdsWc1NnWK28Q2QllJKrJW2vnMDHXcBkJC_lWC8CT1VdaUp/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+098.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096271815868946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi53-l21Udi789276BQTv3kKWbe0N7jlEejQnlyDcIELy8cMEnd7FVFuiBRIbm1yWH-B1E6ESVXoSUPnDIAxR1M2TJSnI7vOQdsWc1NnWK28Q2QllJKrJW2vnMDHXcBkJC_lWC8CT1VdaUp/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+098.JPG" border="0" /></a> The rest of the crew watched and listened. The temps were perfect for swimming. As it turned out, Goosie brought along a floaty! They took turns floating around the lakes. Slackers!!!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc1uVCJHAZWOxHCfyTpwtpHv_W5K6D1CLf8xq6LJ7l9CSRmbgUyj9mDBvrcIBkYg7x-thAoVRiTg5t92AB7y7rfE8OLfRFnC01s47rfVMGYy1CmCNXsXl1U6XbEEVIQ8TzrS0m_NlVdWhG/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+085.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385096265951826114" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc1uVCJHAZWOxHCfyTpwtpHv_W5K6D1CLf8xq6LJ7l9CSRmbgUyj9mDBvrcIBkYg7x-thAoVRiTg5t92AB7y7rfE8OLfRFnC01s47rfVMGYy1CmCNXsXl1U6XbEEVIQ8TzrS0m_NlVdWhG/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+085.JPG" border="0" /></a>That's a guilty smile if I've every seen one. The skinny dippers relaxed and enjoyed pure nonsence. Rosario's other extended trip w/ us involved a twenty mile day in the snow w/ 5000' of elevation gain and 5000' of decent. I think this was alot more what she likes.<br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVOcztilnyY1DwOsNwG3lYISKynVTpPU1Cx2PAkjktrWVmJ0S9SWeYhFDcaEFTgcamo8nGI1380mUMgUZXZkeVPGcKViJXrUqkGUN4bS0z3c43JNd3z4w7rVxcb8km7dvyEFWns0zUKBR/s1600-h/Enchantments_2009+017.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385095783012053698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAVOcztilnyY1DwOsNwG3lYISKynVTpPU1Cx2PAkjktrWVmJ0S9SWeYhFDcaEFTgcamo8nGI1380mUMgUZXZkeVPGcKViJXrUqkGUN4bS0z3c43JNd3z4w7rVxcb8km7dvyEFWns0zUKBR/s320/Enchantments_2009+017.JPG" border="0" /></a> The snafflehounds were out in full force. John got the great idea of burying his food? He thought it would keep it cool. For some reason, the snaffle hounds decided that he was their Huckleberry and they got after his food cache's. He ended up hiking around w/ all of his food each day.<br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHej2_watbtaghoiab2bPhiU50G0JydhGccaJS6-4OgkJetjRZrR0YJyxLoYToQJ3oVDErbvqqUA8VCS169TLSIG-Hq9Rsb-HQmNO2AiyuIpMwewbyojYBn0AcfwVhVmhTDr5pHM_2bcp4/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+156.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385095764223368194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHej2_watbtaghoiab2bPhiU50G0JydhGccaJS6-4OgkJetjRZrR0YJyxLoYToQJ3oVDErbvqqUA8VCS169TLSIG-Hq9Rsb-HQmNO2AiyuIpMwewbyojYBn0AcfwVhVmhTDr5pHM_2bcp4/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+156.JPG" border="0" /></a>Joanna sits at the dinner table as we all prepared for the dropping temps.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG40XXxvJtbwovGlRjoOOf0Q5bhVgl1beKjh8yk9z03q_k26zQnQuHEOk13dytHDLEu1Y_TtyhIRSg4TJNtXs38HXy9Op8MrgpyhbFTRkpyAPLTw2_gGknE5V8CaqjuNVlbVYduAMCgcYf/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+154.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385095748065622546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG40XXxvJtbwovGlRjoOOf0Q5bhVgl1beKjh8yk9z03q_k26zQnQuHEOk13dytHDLEu1Y_TtyhIRSg4TJNtXs38HXy9Op8MrgpyhbFTRkpyAPLTw2_gGknE5V8CaqjuNVlbVYduAMCgcYf/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+154.JPG" border="0" /></a> This was another pre-sunset pic. Jerry managed to haul some wine up and all was well.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxi3sn28_OVZHGNdgAbjNp_unxR5qbgmf7lKWgUJGvbvNXcTA4l3Ph-NBmE15EeCNS8AEw6LnB4se-wAgICPl3OhPDVMFEZ6Pi-WOUN6OVKnEBN-wgC-kMgGyE-K1DI5UYF_LVlJaz_zG/s1600-h/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+149.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5385095741937517330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFxi3sn28_OVZHGNdgAbjNp_unxR5qbgmf7lKWgUJGvbvNXcTA4l3Ph-NBmE15EeCNS8AEw6LnB4se-wAgICPl3OhPDVMFEZ6Pi-WOUN6OVKnEBN-wgC-kMgGyE-K1DI5UYF_LVlJaz_zG/s320/Acker+Rock_Enchantments_2009+149.JPG" border="0" /></a> I like this shot because of the way the light reflected off the lake and the stream. It was awesome in real life and the pic just isn't the same, but it give you an idea of where we were. What would we do the next day for an encore? </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-79997759679886432792009-08-28T10:45:00.001-07:002009-08-28T15:39:56.509-07:00Monkey Face 2009Monkey Face 2009 <span style="font-size:78%;">Andrew Trachsel, Amanda Blankenship and me.</span><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFUnjG0NFTUiOH7twhJiyMkCjRu_3tf6Px1cx0L2l0Qb8Pny0nUocnp7pifGtumhBTp6px5JcnjNzWxBkepgyFkAG-NbXgoxwtdZYy2cjJ1g3wCKNf2lZVuSmLHbKlCWvl17oIJ2kCTwY5/s1600-h/038.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074880019674962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFUnjG0NFTUiOH7twhJiyMkCjRu_3tf6Px1cx0L2l0Qb8Pny0nUocnp7pifGtumhBTp6px5JcnjNzWxBkepgyFkAG-NbXgoxwtdZYy2cjJ1g3wCKNf2lZVuSmLHbKlCWvl17oIJ2kCTwY5/s320/038.JPG" border="0" /></a>Let me rewind to Climb School, this year. Andrew helped Wild Bill carry some of those boxes of coffee up to Horsethief where us Early Birds were prepping the cliffs for the rock day. I jokingly told him (andrew) that he'd be welcome on any climb I go on. Now, he's cashing in on that "promise."<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5pssHQxnMiTu8LjA7NQT50Rw3KWuQDf0f3U3qOrbdZdT9-9ya2WR9dI9Kq9eWPbyzu8cfvPfljEvJEqnIDO7tBQgSF8iTps94BvKuAwYNy0CXIrzB34Ot4JeSB58N1yex79-Z7GzqYUD/s1600-h/IMG_0180.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074724618517442" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz5pssHQxnMiTu8LjA7NQT50Rw3KWuQDf0f3U3qOrbdZdT9-9ya2WR9dI9Kq9eWPbyzu8cfvPfljEvJEqnIDO7tBQgSF8iTps94BvKuAwYNy0CXIrzB34Ot4JeSB58N1yex79-Z7GzqYUD/s320/IMG_0180.JPG" border="0" /></a>I kept running into Andrew and Amanda at the climbing gym and kinda got to know them. It was obvious that they were excited about rock climbing and they both had an aptitude for it. They mentioned that they wanted to climb the Monkey Face in a way that sounded more like, "Will you take us to climb the Monkey?" I said that I would if they learned "the ropes" first. They took an aid class from a friend Gent at Clubsport. Amy, Vincent, Lisa Ripps and Kerry Ketcham all took part in some of the class as well. Since there aren't tons of girls/women in the club, Amy is happy Amanda has joined and they've become friends. When it comes to climbing, it seems Amy and Amanda were cast from the same mold. Moldy women climbers?<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbP3ALd5p5fNG7q8P1oadXwi0IeMR_moB_3V7-C1bus9Gk8y394mf9WE2jI5CLQsqwEn4ohahLEUYSsQ9GBP5tb0gskbS8spiZrepIs6Fg2anjYad5b8NyDwEz_K0C2QViB2GzxT9zKTpu/s1600-h/IMG_0179.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074714459073778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbP3ALd5p5fNG7q8P1oadXwi0IeMR_moB_3V7-C1bus9Gk8y394mf9WE2jI5CLQsqwEn4ohahLEUYSsQ9GBP5tb0gskbS8spiZrepIs6Fg2anjYad5b8NyDwEz_K0C2QViB2GzxT9zKTpu/s320/IMG_0179.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div align="center"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Amanda, in her Ninja outfit heads to the cliff</span></div><div>We broke "camp" at the Sewell's place near Sisters where we ate all of their cereal. Thanks so much. I had another sleepless night and in the morning, I almost emptied my water bottle into my bag of gatorade powder. I needed coffee! Angeline's Bakery was closed for a rafting trip so I had to settle for Big Name Coffee. I almost wanted to turn back and go home. We hiked thru asterisk pass and headed over to the W Face Variation. We were roped up by 800am. Later than I'd hoped but I figured we'd still beat most of the heat of the day.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU0egb4ErJvMBJiUHN2AsMWTMm2-bU_DA4MbqsVWMEzfgn3oiiwDjtBeG8uP0H685hvlZ1bthY7jk_2cWR7N8fGoJBc9gy_D-sEuPxdcMPiC-XIjI2v08nwIKjqpL0wa1A2ik9srHcKIa_/s1600-h/IMG_0182.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074704598153506" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU0egb4ErJvMBJiUHN2AsMWTMm2-bU_DA4MbqsVWMEzfgn3oiiwDjtBeG8uP0H685hvlZ1bthY7jk_2cWR7N8fGoJBc9gy_D-sEuPxdcMPiC-XIjI2v08nwIKjqpL0wa1A2ik9srHcKIa_/s320/IMG_0182.JPG" border="0" /></a> I lead the first pitch and it was alot more fun than I remember it being. Since we had two ropes, I was able to use twin rope technique and avoid almost all of the rope drag. The downside, the weight of two full ropes near the end of the pitch felt like it added up to half a grade. In the pic above you can see the "kids" at the ground belay. I think the toughest move is getting around the corner at the beginning. My first gear placement is right where I wanted my hand. From there on, it's pretty straight forward.<br /></div><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6tVzKA6iCbSnwFqPvOVTMYOm33XGvpWJKlXDpXSPgfzJDyWCO0yQuP-mdPwdYBD5uRsVzUS678pJTbB9RtBRgS-IKEMmj4PD8IRbh4lPjOgUq_vkRQa03yIFCTMVWcCCvDRcvj9LdNcQ/s1600-h/IMG_0184.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074696015621426" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf6tVzKA6iCbSnwFqPvOVTMYOm33XGvpWJKlXDpXSPgfzJDyWCO0yQuP-mdPwdYBD5uRsVzUS678pJTbB9RtBRgS-IKEMmj4PD8IRbh4lPjOgUq_vkRQa03yIFCTMVWcCCvDRcvj9LdNcQ/s320/IMG_0184.JPG" border="0" /></a>I belayed both of them up as they climbed simultaneously. Amanda climbed 2nd and cleaned the gear. Andrew climbed third.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4fPFlmH_uHAr-4NaNxzK0wgKAMkpBB-URsVJRDl0pmahyhMNgTiyrkFRj18JDejO5OXSjbm-tR8U-qflnIs8FG8ZVnfxVVatlHqklmiYVtSYbclv4yZFdbSTXm7hRzVkryaay-T3KftMQ/s1600-h/IMG_0186.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074687812168946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4fPFlmH_uHAr-4NaNxzK0wgKAMkpBB-URsVJRDl0pmahyhMNgTiyrkFRj18JDejO5OXSjbm-tR8U-qflnIs8FG8ZVnfxVVatlHqklmiYVtSYbclv4yZFdbSTXm7hRzVkryaay-T3KftMQ/s320/IMG_0186.JPG" border="0" /></a>They made quick work of the first pitch. We had two packs for the three of us. The leader always climbed packless.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEVWMEyIpFlgW8Vq3ua_gLFgwvnynOJhs0eo8eRAH51PCqxQH_ldEsmp1svl5a3OeSLXAczLdRcM7VMSknUo1BxmBoqCSgXzhAak4a6Mrf8YsTLir9QH60Gu5Te_d7620irm-VROPbj649/s1600-h/IMG_0190.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074317977884402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEVWMEyIpFlgW8Vq3ua_gLFgwvnynOJhs0eo8eRAH51PCqxQH_ldEsmp1svl5a3OeSLXAczLdRcM7VMSknUo1BxmBoqCSgXzhAak4a6Mrf8YsTLir9QH60Gu5Te_d7620irm-VROPbj649/s320/IMG_0190.JPG" border="0" /></a>The 2nd pitch was worse than I remembered it. It's not overly difficult but it's super awkward. You go into this dihedral that's too closed for stemming and too narrow for chimney techniques. You kind of just grovel your way up. There's a nice finger crack for gear but I still didn't enjoy the climbing. The kids both managed very well. Where the dihedral ends, the climbing gets alot more pleasant. Above, you can see Amanda about to reach the much enjoyed sunshine.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHAc2sVZx3pkQNW42mIoyzOE3rtiPRpqhbEy5kcaoz0HLjG8qFxuNBbQd62XXqo10_rdVsTkj2n4MrlSuDLwfHdeCyq-zmx7nGyW8zgCOoST2BlDnMfRbPjEpgmmATdGVCpzMuUME2dfS0/s1600-h/001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074307595443266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHAc2sVZx3pkQNW42mIoyzOE3rtiPRpqhbEy5kcaoz0HLjG8qFxuNBbQd62XXqo10_rdVsTkj2n4MrlSuDLwfHdeCyq-zmx7nGyW8zgCOoST2BlDnMfRbPjEpgmmATdGVCpzMuUME2dfS0/s320/001.JPG" border="0" /></a> I really like silhouette pics so I couldn't help include this one. Andrews belaying on two ropes and more importantly, he has that scruffy look that says, "Yeah, I've got the handsome rugged thing going.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimT8_HvWzALhlfm4WxCLNmapCaXA3KYF5pjfrabbTP7NiFYbmn3YT71FlFBWPjH7WQTTRrqS_TaJ05fZ7OYkjIPGvaCmW8Y6atlDM9C19xAFh_3p2907ZajdSoXSMqWS7a0X8VsgsNqOn/s1600-h/005.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074297159781794" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjimT8_HvWzALhlfm4WxCLNmapCaXA3KYF5pjfrabbTP7NiFYbmn3YT71FlFBWPjH7WQTTRrqS_TaJ05fZ7OYkjIPGvaCmW8Y6atlDM9C19xAFh_3p2907ZajdSoXSMqWS7a0X8VsgsNqOn/s320/005.JPG" border="0" /></a>We reached the Bohn Street ledge. It took me longer to lead the two trad pitches than I thought it would. I guess I can only climb fast when I'm on sketchy alpine routes. Above, you can see Amanda forcing a smile. It was her lead and it was easy to see she was getting nervous. It would be her first aid lead outside of the class. She was getting serious.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizKfSvInSb0Ty15nYQX9oA-QCmhsBdn61QUSPd6-KHRXO5H9c3BYlgDUTX2SCHflBDB9_Kn23tdb5gvdIfusa59wHe4mHR1_nWnuI99CUN2HX4dpHIXXwgA_rh67sG15OFu_Sgg67mbeli/s1600-h/006.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074287492052946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizKfSvInSb0Ty15nYQX9oA-QCmhsBdn61QUSPd6-KHRXO5H9c3BYlgDUTX2SCHflBDB9_Kn23tdb5gvdIfusa59wHe4mHR1_nWnuI99CUN2HX4dpHIXXwgA_rh67sG15OFu_Sgg67mbeli/s320/006.JPG" border="0" /></a>Andrew was less serious. Somethings never stop being funny. It doesn't matter if you're in grade school or on multi-pitch routes.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Nnn9Gea9d094-LoI7nwrG0l49L3PXjRBaPG_MaobxOmZGkukbFCYbSsqQPcxza-0FrU2MZJkizBeVnY6hpGFyqSNHov9E1RlY1w_P8AdH5Pst8q6w1XSj-oqLDGEtevIqlMXbAXgaoaw/s1600-h/IMG_0188.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375074277992690754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Nnn9Gea9d094-LoI7nwrG0l49L3PXjRBaPG_MaobxOmZGkukbFCYbSsqQPcxza-0FrU2MZJkizBeVnY6hpGFyqSNHov9E1RlY1w_P8AdH5Pst8q6w1XSj-oqLDGEtevIqlMXbAXgaoaw/s320/IMG_0188.JPG" border="0" /></a>One thing that was really cool was that both Andrew and Amanda put in the time and they were going to be leading portions of the route. I generally want to lead everything, it's hard for me to give up the sharp end. In this case, it was cool to see both of them stepping up to the challenge. Amanda, took a bit of time to collect herself but she did a great job. I'm glad her parents weren't there because she had a few choice expletives as she gained the Monkey's mouth.<br /><div></div><div></div></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw_pSLZm342WFhnpMsj2f1mQ9E9FQwhnPCxg7_LcAPry-3dT9Sbh3jJymdlAoWh5Rhd7IuFJajF2PkQHZJFdKAVnaYoQzwm2ZaKzQj7tn9CS008F7rH3n6H9PubNlLYoUft1JgpKhFhTzo/s1600-h/IMG_0194.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073923275077122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiw_pSLZm342WFhnpMsj2f1mQ9E9FQwhnPCxg7_LcAPry-3dT9Sbh3jJymdlAoWh5Rhd7IuFJajF2PkQHZJFdKAVnaYoQzwm2ZaKzQj7tn9CS008F7rH3n6H9PubNlLYoUft1JgpKhFhTzo/s320/IMG_0194.JPG" border="0" /></a>She lead on two ropes. My rope she clipped for protection and this would be her lead rope. The other rope she let hang free. When she arrived at the anchor, she fixed the free rope for Andrew to jumar. She belayed me on the lead rope. I followed her up the bolt ladder. I was pleased to see they added two bolts to the end of the bolt ladder that make it easier to gain the Monkey's mouth.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNh26uoBcyJSHG4ihQTBHdNATW9U0LwAvFUtDJgifgseVWUJ28KCsQRv-A6XD-WRyIphp4FibwUfxYypRu9nVfQ2FMiE954H5XFeBGJ0s0aYwcPE0pnOQuUSlcxLzrSbg-zhYGdHTKtLNX/s1600-h/009.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073911659949618" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNh26uoBcyJSHG4ihQTBHdNATW9U0LwAvFUtDJgifgseVWUJ28KCsQRv-A6XD-WRyIphp4FibwUfxYypRu9nVfQ2FMiE954H5XFeBGJ0s0aYwcPE0pnOQuUSlcxLzrSbg-zhYGdHTKtLNX/s320/009.JPG" border="0" /></a>This is a shot Amanda took of Andrew and I on Bohn Street. I'm not used to seeing pics of me from above. Andrew and I were talking crap about which of us would arrive at the mouth first. He would be jugging and I'd be following the bolt ladder. I hate losing but I can admit, he beat me to the top. At least my undies were still clean;-)<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRYVSFwBUjiUIS40OuZZLaJcvqkq2Un6JteXrTb9e5B8B4pY6EA11GexKFutgZfbgQUWjlnSBtPA1vG4o3IGZcRW9IkzR1uw68TfrBKMYbthOoRB-j34ck_5WSv91TzByEWrQ-DoKCo1UG/s1600-h/011.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073903370197954" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRYVSFwBUjiUIS40OuZZLaJcvqkq2Un6JteXrTb9e5B8B4pY6EA11GexKFutgZfbgQUWjlnSBtPA1vG4o3IGZcRW9IkzR1uw68TfrBKMYbthOoRB-j34ck_5WSv91TzByEWrQ-DoKCo1UG/s320/011.JPG" border="0" /></a>This is a cool shot of us following. I like Andrews shadow on the rock below me. Since I'm a sore loser, I'll make excuses for why he got to the mouth first. I had to get some pics of Andrew on his first jumar AND I almost peed my pants watching him turn colors as he swung out in to the nothing. Since his rope wasn't fixed to the wall, only the anchor, as he began jugging up, once his weight was on the rope, he swung waaaaay out. I have to admit it looked pretty freaky. He had a mini cardiac but he regrouped. He insists that he wasn't scared and that he just couldn't breath. Hmm...<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqwiOW124rs2R6Vkk0KY7BmmMyDFIau4_tUlCZRVYtkGz6S1awG-T4mxxusX7TIAPF-97hFJaqUhvhq_X7aPNexGj_goY3xz5vQ7-6H1D4E9YLcVb09-hHEHJODgt3bfBqtiMblkDu9BH/s1600-h/IMG_0196.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073893142549874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdqwiOW124rs2R6Vkk0KY7BmmMyDFIau4_tUlCZRVYtkGz6S1awG-T4mxxusX7TIAPF-97hFJaqUhvhq_X7aPNexGj_goY3xz5vQ7-6H1D4E9YLcVb09-hHEHJODgt3bfBqtiMblkDu9BH/s320/IMG_0196.JPG" border="0" /></a>I kind of know what he means. Sometimes the exposure takes your breath away, even though you're not scared. Andrew used one jumar and a gri-gri to ascend the rope. Since, I'm a sore loser, I'll make fun of his shorts. It looks like he borrowed them right out of Wild Bill's closet! Ok so they weren't super short but were just riding up his harness. Either way, you can see that he would look good in Daisy Dukes.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTAArgE0KmNJv5B2W1KrBYp11x1M7W68PI_Tn-NjdyI4FsTYZ5r2Q7JZlzYkV1O5MWjjWKjCIxpTuXb2UDJ7ZedMQSrroOiQngLzjbOlyHn9lGiuSQHD0Ygt26ubHXEoAClVWNAmZV1-V/s1600-h/IMG_0200.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073887434892706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlTAArgE0KmNJv5B2W1KrBYp11x1M7W68PI_Tn-NjdyI4FsTYZ5r2Q7JZlzYkV1O5MWjjWKjCIxpTuXb2UDJ7ZedMQSrroOiQngLzjbOlyHn9lGiuSQHD0Ygt26ubHXEoAClVWNAmZV1-V/s320/IMG_0200.JPG" border="0" /></a>Back in the Mouth, Amanda appeared to be relieved to have her lead out of the way. We stopped, rehydrated, ate and rested. It was nice to be in the shade. The welcome morning warmth gave way to scorching heat. We had beef jerky, sandwhiches and some fruit. There's always something funny about eating bannana's in the monkey's mouth. It makes me smile just writing this.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECUncQGXyq3DArcV5SoF-PEy5BRcV6cnpAPqK2joFWbcWBrguDUv9JKZAlCL3bxTyO884h7l0he_n79CcHbirSWvW1JEBkAfC6xtDga3Ym5b3rrs3VaH6VWLw74oTqhR2UBeJGrpXbqps/s1600-h/IMG_0199.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073484129875234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiECUncQGXyq3DArcV5SoF-PEy5BRcV6cnpAPqK2joFWbcWBrguDUv9JKZAlCL3bxTyO884h7l0he_n79CcHbirSWvW1JEBkAfC6xtDga3Ym5b3rrs3VaH6VWLw74oTqhR2UBeJGrpXbqps/s320/IMG_0199.JPG" border="0" /></a>Andrew gives up the pack and preps to head out around Panic Point. I didn't get any pics of him leading out (the whole belay thing again)but the exposure was huge and it took him some time to compose himself. I watched him tremble his way around the corner and up. This is a very intimidating lead and I was psyched to see him handle it. He got the shakes out of the way and finished it up like an ole pro.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioSxAjTGT8a6WWnZWd2jzZhrBaZItYCb5Fse0Lt0RUizQSB3Zput6mRKFY0ngv-AZorhJDmsKAyrdHy2ZUJbKtuOSHvD659dDj9Ff2VdZsNKsLl0DLxr8Augj_U01xWj0S_dVBFhKzeI5w/s1600-h/007.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073473813902194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioSxAjTGT8a6WWnZWd2jzZhrBaZItYCb5Fse0Lt0RUizQSB3Zput6mRKFY0ngv-AZorhJDmsKAyrdHy2ZUJbKtuOSHvD659dDj9Ff2VdZsNKsLl0DLxr8Augj_U01xWj0S_dVBFhKzeI5w/s320/007.JPG" border="0" /></a>This is the view out of the cave, not a bad place to be. We were all glad we weren't working.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicL7hSOfBim4jwVyunTVI_uZFRdP82nvC8X4sfK0rKSrBG6bt6glSbM8dUl-ApqLJT_ezjnQdSHe38a9U8TM54J8zEUEQBrSIg1ajsBYkpFgtCJaBMggfxYM5Wu_UWdgYs5Z1hNGZ9lVIp/s1600-h/IMG_0205.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073466138400594" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicL7hSOfBim4jwVyunTVI_uZFRdP82nvC8X4sfK0rKSrBG6bt6glSbM8dUl-ApqLJT_ezjnQdSHe38a9U8TM54J8zEUEQBrSIg1ajsBYkpFgtCJaBMggfxYM5Wu_UWdgYs5Z1hNGZ9lVIp/s320/IMG_0205.JPG" border="0" /></a>Another forced smile from Amanda. She also felt some trepidation headed out of the Monkey's mouth. After she headed out around the corner, I heard some thretching and some more grunting and then I heard some laughing. Climbing in a capsule. Thretching leads to grunting leads to laughter.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_X9owPM8Jzr5F_t6oyIb5INzrgmEKODO8rVmn6PvTcAmYG_eay50luTSEBFyOiNbSxI27H8Jnz7uPhO8B5nJ5WVJaluzmdigsbOwYZF8m869Pr3ffCr_5FWL1UY2G3VgamcYxaik_U2fP/s1600-h/017.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073455937583106" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_X9owPM8Jzr5F_t6oyIb5INzrgmEKODO8rVmn6PvTcAmYG_eay50luTSEBFyOiNbSxI27H8Jnz7uPhO8B5nJ5WVJaluzmdigsbOwYZF8m869Pr3ffCr_5FWL1UY2G3VgamcYxaik_U2fP/s320/017.JPG" border="0" /></a>I climbed past them and lead the last pitch to the summit. While I was belaying it was hard to not really appreciate our climbing club. Six months ago, I didn't know either of these two. Andrew hadn't really done any climbing and Amanda had done some. Somewhere along the way, they turned from some new climb school students to my friends. From new climbers to Monkey Face summitters. They didn't just tie in and follow but in true John Petrie/Ellen Gradison/Vincent Dunn Fashion, I was able to help them learn some basic skills so they could have an integral role in THEIR Monkey Face climb.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdW3EV5gUmzYeWo_iK1RAz9rfjFw-C58sjbOgbh4VpqRAIhJe0OW73ZpIQGl6S6t55PlxybpK7O_gNiaDqXKpF0DOYoMNoZo3dpFAGfLjqvIV0AubJpvft32sjp8VyeOgnmvCy8-frTl-W/s1600-h/IMG_0210.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073446257491778" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdW3EV5gUmzYeWo_iK1RAz9rfjFw-C58sjbOgbh4VpqRAIhJe0OW73ZpIQGl6S6t55PlxybpK7O_gNiaDqXKpF0DOYoMNoZo3dpFAGfLjqvIV0AubJpvft32sjp8VyeOgnmvCy8-frTl-W/s320/IMG_0210.JPG" border="0" /></a>Amanda completes some of the finishing moves. In this pic, she's gaining the bridge of the Monkey's Nose.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicJJwXr7QK3m3WbeV5T2wT5uVLdqUfkds0DsTt1BCOmtxIrHftjtgFvnddJrzlxFTRNoF-AGXlEBqbfwyxvjBe9mi1CYhzTeZ1v3YHjKOWnrN-2P1hnUBmYPcX91gN7o3z8cSCIr14eZc/s1600-h/019.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073054266237330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicJJwXr7QK3m3WbeV5T2wT5uVLdqUfkds0DsTt1BCOmtxIrHftjtgFvnddJrzlxFTRNoF-AGXlEBqbfwyxvjBe9mi1CYhzTeZ1v3YHjKOWnrN-2P1hnUBmYPcX91gN7o3z8cSCIr14eZc/s320/019.JPG" border="0" /></a>From the summit, Amanda gets a shot of me belaying Andrew up the final pitch.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eU-OD-rIGcYSSysYUmdgZyqvTGmX_SBsrj-Y0r2RauGAhnnYyAsCJZlB0_GqQt4KKpAp9HaeWH8gMKIo8HXT8VboPb22GsEv9g0bH_DncOCeLsm6kWP-fat1gPA7SUM4-w_slhbyZdPR/s1600-h/021.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073041395588610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eU-OD-rIGcYSSysYUmdgZyqvTGmX_SBsrj-Y0r2RauGAhnnYyAsCJZlB0_GqQt4KKpAp9HaeWH8gMKIo8HXT8VboPb22GsEv9g0bH_DncOCeLsm6kWP-fat1gPA7SUM4-w_slhbyZdPR/s320/021.JPG" border="0" /></a>Along time ago, Andrew saw a picture in a magazine of some people on Monkey face, he had no idea that the monkey was in our back yard here in Oregon. He dreamed of climbing it one day. One of my favorite parts of climbing. When you turn the things you can imagine into the things that you're doing.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5kZM9YRwL43QveIE6ENhkifHACIqEXND1aRrnrHqjd-dNWNSYSrfzsENpMGHMm5jvk0masaX6bLw3YSZ5sQhweOuBSyPdGAJMi9kF7lvYdeKHCV-vw5Vl_xf7JKuKW4i3s5tmncOgyGoc/s1600-h/029.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073029624348786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5kZM9YRwL43QveIE6ENhkifHACIqEXND1aRrnrHqjd-dNWNSYSrfzsENpMGHMm5jvk0masaX6bLw3YSZ5sQhweOuBSyPdGAJMi9kF7lvYdeKHCV-vw5Vl_xf7JKuKW4i3s5tmncOgyGoc/s320/029.JPG" border="0" /></a> The view down towards Asterisk from the Monkey Summit.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpl1V1qMutaGeuZGGNFtx5z-RnwcFNsijoM7Mm9DwKH0XMYmeaPzVdWhgWyUBdmJj1Ruu4NiOrhvyHpetTlZeKSMGx-XUdSilgmx0tau9iDzULjBzyy-eUsTp-mK3GP3BSnXRCJnLR1DRv/s1600-h/022.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073020704980770" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpl1V1qMutaGeuZGGNFtx5z-RnwcFNsijoM7Mm9DwKH0XMYmeaPzVdWhgWyUBdmJj1Ruu4NiOrhvyHpetTlZeKSMGx-XUdSilgmx0tau9iDzULjBzyy-eUsTp-mK3GP3BSnXRCJnLR1DRv/s320/022.JPG" border="0" /></a>At the summit, the altitude sickness once again kicked in and I began losing my mind. (maybe it was just sleep deprivation?) Above, Andrew, Me and my imaginary friend enjoy the summit. I don't know what I was doing but it looks like I was hugging my imaginary friend that I've been accused of having.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG1uMpZzwu3hGPGpVVrFfBgnf0U7naPcJFqXb7q6x7U5u21Ay1tz54B9OsMiytFi1g7NPB1Jx45QXD9P2apV03ujhyphenhyphenemG4ke2dSdiqQ7qd44-dkJ4Z8e9goyEeJ3pveR7OG8RrbtEKMwbE/s1600-h/024.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375073017587698946" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG1uMpZzwu3hGPGpVVrFfBgnf0U7naPcJFqXb7q6x7U5u21Ay1tz54B9OsMiytFi1g7NPB1Jx45QXD9P2apV03ujhyphenhyphenemG4ke2dSdiqQ7qd44-dkJ4Z8e9goyEeJ3pveR7OG8RrbtEKMwbE/s320/024.JPG" border="0" /></a>Another summit shot.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnDzva_8im-f-RQnxup7PHDuzzbH5m1PUuQU6dq877nCRFYFNgVXZGvSf2X8qoiXJC4tK7zHZ9LEWaCFdaj3Jb72PM_2B96bUxGeJ_-bYbSr26PZjXPih6fzHbhmAYX0T8reacr_JIdWDA/s1600-h/023.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375072688430104402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnDzva_8im-f-RQnxup7PHDuzzbH5m1PUuQU6dq877nCRFYFNgVXZGvSf2X8qoiXJC4tK7zHZ9LEWaCFdaj3Jb72PM_2B96bUxGeJ_-bYbSr26PZjXPih6fzHbhmAYX0T8reacr_JIdWDA/s320/023.JPG" border="0" /></a>I was psyched to allow these two to drag me up the Monkey once more. One of my climbing mentors, George, always said that it he's almost as happy watching his friends climb 5.8's that they didn't think they could do as he is sending 5.12. I certainly can't climb 5.12 but I can see what he was getting at. What a blast.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWcxg3pSRSUhP7wVFLpq9b2CIbYPseOloiCkzocFmJiEFMkwgklnVQH0vQct6P5lwyieSNaOiGck98uyaZtyLNevsVPrArAvEdAVkBO248hzlYoKwp9z1h_nt2pUfNBbfvFLtPnYjO35I/s1600-h/026.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375072679335081714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWcxg3pSRSUhP7wVFLpq9b2CIbYPseOloiCkzocFmJiEFMkwgklnVQH0vQct6P5lwyieSNaOiGck98uyaZtyLNevsVPrArAvEdAVkBO248hzlYoKwp9z1h_nt2pUfNBbfvFLtPnYjO35I/s320/026.JPG" border="0" /></a> Amanda reminds us again how much better girls are than guys<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYOwiquP34Tn3G-cUeh6MQ40dgNBowCyAVjkWzYsyLEcqafrrVjZnkpprHM_KE7noJ9Fq_nX_WEsdt3wUODwSPI5RY1cNID-e8CSx03uPRxvtF3QHH-pVyTrrSBQSN13-ckgu4hx4C6YZS/s1600-h/027.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375072670734046354" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYOwiquP34Tn3G-cUeh6MQ40dgNBowCyAVjkWzYsyLEcqafrrVjZnkpprHM_KE7noJ9Fq_nX_WEsdt3wUODwSPI5RY1cNID-e8CSx03uPRxvtF3QHH-pVyTrrSBQSN13-ckgu4hx4C6YZS/s320/027.JPG" border="0" /></a>Andrew demonstrates how men are the weaker gender. This was as good as it got for him. I did a back flip. There were no pics and nobody saw it;-0</div><div></div><div>I didn't see any reason to prove it to anybody.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiE6BDw1O2GXc1PeSC_BaZlR7lXQmZRx25dbM9DurBwpA0v5wgwCYNOd0LShh8miuCTYCQ-Yv-kAHiXe-uQNrzOgUhus4BZuIPlfQuiXf3IO7m_mIGTO0RKDdIBaPrbHqWIq8LR3Tl3icu/s1600-h/028.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375072657529368802" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiE6BDw1O2GXc1PeSC_BaZlR7lXQmZRx25dbM9DurBwpA0v5wgwCYNOd0LShh8miuCTYCQ-Yv-kAHiXe-uQNrzOgUhus4BZuIPlfQuiXf3IO7m_mIGTO0RKDdIBaPrbHqWIq8LR3Tl3icu/s320/028.JPG" border="0" /></a> Amanda challenges <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb8eriBAV_SHGji5-b_a00SaZz1GmThMdFx0N9U3QMXZ5MWhUuCdMAf79XO10FCj7guolbqlga7J4cqU-bZfxF7hPFy8bsViN8JtVouwcX9CwJ1OM7TeQPSR9IDMiZinumHcb-z8v1JtI/s1600-h/0815091447a.jpg">my prom queen pose</a> from Mike Neimeyer's Blog. She simply can't hang.<br /></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuXKw8K2jcXYBlNZxapAlxgTzCUzlKetob0mdtM8CTJoYGpUmkg8lV62WR4SrMzCIxdrhvK7TUxSQ09laD0wOrcYwBjtgaa3XI_uMyhoNFBPqtCHHgVbYqur_OR6tjdchqRN5I-zrlutlq/s1600-h/037.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5375072644884368066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuXKw8K2jcXYBlNZxapAlxgTzCUzlKetob0mdtM8CTJoYGpUmkg8lV62WR4SrMzCIxdrhvK7TUxSQ09laD0wOrcYwBjtgaa3XI_uMyhoNFBPqtCHHgVbYqur_OR6tjdchqRN5I-zrlutlq/s320/037.JPG" border="0" /></a>We summitted after 5 1/2 hours. Not too bad considerring we stopped for almost an hour in the mouth and we were climbing in a team of 3. Andrew and Amanda did an awesome job and they should be proud of themselves. What a great day.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-22137550330331721572009-08-06T08:25:00.000-07:002009-08-06T12:48:59.237-07:00Mt Olympus Blue Glacier<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivMimDe1P89o5vUiVAawoIo_uteoLq2vST_LeXk5HKYB9173sB9PMFJA-B1NFCG8v26cWz8MBSt-Jsd_VE4XYVz6gV4uYM3oSqBCTAMxvbureyXOyzMuCww3J8oChE80Z3v7g5fI7FIfWT/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+057.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366886305312465282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivMimDe1P89o5vUiVAawoIo_uteoLq2vST_LeXk5HKYB9173sB9PMFJA-B1NFCG8v26cWz8MBSt-Jsd_VE4XYVz6gV4uYM3oSqBCTAMxvbureyXOyzMuCww3J8oChE80Z3v7g5fI7FIfWT/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+057.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:130%;">Mt Olympus- Only 7969'?</span><br /><br />After many rain outs and reschedules this season, I didn't expect Olympus would go. Access to Mt Olympus is thru the Hoh Rainforest which receive 143" of average annual rainfall. In the weeks before the climb I watched the forecast and I didn't see a cloud in the sky, hope began to flicker.<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxEO2nt4MLIFD0rsmQd2L-UeJ7SCzR9kX3dTXl_N_0eFN-NdKockVNCIf8ODt40b7ARGAoeNEkKZMXtPzwGmdR9d2DD_AHHzT4LHUjZuNJrQxzsaLYBn9ffQym7Rqi1RUCWzzeo6DLICLM/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+014.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366886043664218194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxEO2nt4MLIFD0rsmQd2L-UeJ7SCzR9kX3dTXl_N_0eFN-NdKockVNCIf8ODt40b7ARGAoeNEkKZMXtPzwGmdR9d2DD_AHHzT4LHUjZuNJrQxzsaLYBn9ffQym7Rqi1RUCWzzeo6DLICLM/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+014.JPG" border="0" /></a>Wild Bill had a traverse of the neighboring Bailey range planned on the same dates, because this was the only weekend I had available, it looked like we were going to have a side by side trip. So lets see, that put Bills team (AKA Princess Leah Impersonators, name chosen by Bill himself) of 9 and my team (AKA Jedi Warriors) 10 deep. 19 Chemeketans Oh My!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyyMXJemzbi_b_Bz1dJ0_rDbhBANdsFP58S6zjuMaui_rdQcAlcaj27B70rkcOGYwU4JZfwxowm45EKmoeVtN2KL03GS8sAa-a6fbT8VRKOA7MNPkYvIwlUUN9IP8Ixya4dVemvAiTE1Hy/s1600-h/DSC03836.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366886032329917538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyyMXJemzbi_b_Bz1dJ0_rDbhBANdsFP58S6zjuMaui_rdQcAlcaj27B70rkcOGYwU4JZfwxowm45EKmoeVtN2KL03GS8sAa-a6fbT8VRKOA7MNPkYvIwlUUN9IP8Ixya4dVemvAiTE1Hy/s320/DSC03836.JPG" border="0" /></a></div><div align="center"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Ok, so the trees are really big!</span></div><div></div><div>The area had been receiving record lows of precip and record high temps. This didn't bode well for snow bridges but w/ 19 people we figured we could build a human chain acrossed any impassable crevasses. Let me give you a run down of the teams. The Leah Impersonators were: Wild Bill, Tom Davidson, Gary Stephenson, Mike Mchugh (his 16th peak!), Sue Nelson, Linda Bedard, Keith Hill, Tim Donovon and Jade Ajani. Basically the biggest sissies the club has to offer. </div><div></div><div>Now the Jedi Warriors. Me, Amy, John and Joanna, Dan Domrose, Bryon Snapp, Vaqas Malik, Tony Carleson, Markian and Jerry "the Tomb Raider" Croft. Basically the Chemeketan allstars;-)<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhycs6Q1qMZqOdZEOKFtWM2CCL4yRBiXxc9MzJNeEgiiD5Jgpm3YMWlu7VUp_-vzUzJ42AUinTEskFLeegFCvNQYFSEr1BLbcMbfVBuxKevGSdfITWgcexOA5y1iMurji6MPvdmKPBog0id/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366886030145877474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhycs6Q1qMZqOdZEOKFtWM2CCL4yRBiXxc9MzJNeEgiiD5Jgpm3YMWlu7VUp_-vzUzJ42AUinTEskFLeegFCvNQYFSEr1BLbcMbfVBuxKevGSdfITWgcexOA5y1iMurji6MPvdmKPBog0id/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+010.JPG" border="0" /></a> After a 6 1/2 hour drive and a 9 mile hike, both teams met out on the sandbar to avoid the biting fly's that almost singlehandedly ruined the trip. The breeze down the sandbar kept the bugs at bay. Seing this mammoth group of friends was really something. As Bill stated, about 1/3 of the active Chemeketans were all sitting on the sandbar. I'll never forget how good the sand felt between my toes as I took this picture.<br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1L8Q-icEp3DTHJYmTJbiG8x08X7OLfVoPjeAuuClZk9-TdR2mLQ_rK4eL4lTWC2JBF_bOBiS9mg0Dg2sHKFHHJ16UeeVXMLhdYvYqHUl9Cqp5uXZ7KfjQnK0mwmhcem1JYDHftBoiyaHK/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+011.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366886019269808562" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1L8Q-icEp3DTHJYmTJbiG8x08X7OLfVoPjeAuuClZk9-TdR2mLQ_rK4eL4lTWC2JBF_bOBiS9mg0Dg2sHKFHHJ16UeeVXMLhdYvYqHUl9Cqp5uXZ7KfjQnK0mwmhcem1JYDHftBoiyaHK/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+011.JPG" border="0" /></a>Shawn, the ranger, was very pleasant. As we'd later find out, You can count on him if you have trouble, but you'll have to wait for that story. You begin the climb at about 500' elevation. The first day is basically a flat hike through a beautiful rainforest that was a bit parched on this trip, I think it was like 80 degrees on the way in.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_mwPwXxO1H_UtlahbniL-L_4jGFS17IXHvPSErfLgZg402ALqYPcfa5W1xAM1uqODKs7qQBbGEbAgMezfmn4x5gYxJE3ixnc2wWXi5-kKGcoPoXnsmR0ifYowc0yPfzumadTKLvRtPKr0/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+012.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366886011031136690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_mwPwXxO1H_UtlahbniL-L_4jGFS17IXHvPSErfLgZg402ALqYPcfa5W1xAM1uqODKs7qQBbGEbAgMezfmn4x5gYxJE3ixnc2wWXi5-kKGcoPoXnsmR0ifYowc0yPfzumadTKLvRtPKr0/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+012.JPG" border="0" /></a>The prevailing theme on Mt Olympus is variety. A flat hike on day one, day two had elevation gain. Summit day begins in the the woods, enters the Alpine zone at +/- 4500'. You start up a moraine, decend to the massive Blue Glacier, climb the Snow Dome which included lots of scrambling. You then traverse the upper Blue to Crystal Pass, around the back and scramble to gain access to the summit block. A steep snow pitch and then you actually gain the summit block. A little bit of everything. As Snappy Bryon said, there are very distinct chapters.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijweO1Egr8VneeA22v-SxAd-TBI61_-imy41iTKhyphenhyphenhr66fql5CvMJ57K13bKtat6L6il9HtL6fW2UxunptuMUSkEpOwG4CgUCuLEIQhslnXTnR1Yokkc-Zv4ndEjtAvNuN9y_ERAz3X3iD/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+013.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885600646458642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijweO1Egr8VneeA22v-SxAd-TBI61_-imy41iTKhyphenhyphenhr66fql5CvMJ57K13bKtat6L6il9HtL6fW2UxunptuMUSkEpOwG4CgUCuLEIQhslnXTnR1Yokkc-Zv4ndEjtAvNuN9y_ERAz3X3iD/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+013.JPG" border="0" /></a>Like the climb, we were quite a variety ourselves. One of my favorite parts of climbing. We had senior citizens, (55 and over?) too many to list...OK I'll do it. Jerry, Bill, Tom, John, Joanna and several more pushing it. We had strong, young folks, Me ;-). OK, Tony was the baby of the group at 28 years old. As matter of fact, if you add Tony and My age up, we'd still be younger than Bill or Tom! What a wise guy I can be, I'm not sorry.</div><div>We had vegans (Tim) and carnivores (I only eat veggies when I'm trapped). We had tons of experience (Bill, Tom, Keith, Markian) and newish climbers (Dan Domrose, Tony Carleson) We had retired, semi-retired and working folk. Good lookin ole gals, good lookin young gals, ugly ole guys and ugly young guys! We had tall Tim at 6'4" and short Sue 4'6". We had Mazi's, chemeks and hybrids. We even had a guy who can beat a bear in a wrestling match! Keith Hill of course.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPepA1oEUdDggosW23Xctw6kmbw6uDvvBLNxOdskf4bA9qGDn6KoaFRgp54ONA_0SDa4JAYSeF7yeT4VebGuyZu-n60CQgM_Ig1lM-hfwf5GGwsewo7XZefQDd1syrOlsbYyuJmSrQZyYO/s1600-h/DSC03685.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885591396025986" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPepA1oEUdDggosW23Xctw6kmbw6uDvvBLNxOdskf4bA9qGDn6KoaFRgp54ONA_0SDa4JAYSeF7yeT4VebGuyZu-n60CQgM_Ig1lM-hfwf5GGwsewo7XZefQDd1syrOlsbYyuJmSrQZyYO/s320/DSC03685.JPG" border="0" /></a> Back to the Climb. We crossed the High Hoh bridge which is actually alot higher than it looks in the picture. It kind of takes your breath away for a second. We had to defibulate John to get him going again. On day two, you gain +/- 3500'. It felt like alot more, I'm guessing the temps were in the high 80's.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1g_G2njDQIvI9WFr3O8QdLmE_1mjaf0_qr4baTt_vd46eVFlVBuqXvxO7rfwNdk5y8kiQNTZ7gFTPU0Ui1Oudr1s0EFN01UDrneHZVWt_XjmYMfuaLBM4G-LpmflQ6t9ly299rImyPmqu/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+024.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885587413843586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1g_G2njDQIvI9WFr3O8QdLmE_1mjaf0_qr4baTt_vd46eVFlVBuqXvxO7rfwNdk5y8kiQNTZ7gFTPU0Ui1Oudr1s0EFN01UDrneHZVWt_XjmYMfuaLBM4G-LpmflQ6t9ly299rImyPmqu/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+024.JPG" border="0" /></a> There's a traverse in the trail that gets washed out by avy's every year. This year, they built a rope ladder, that dropped 200'. It was very, very hot. No shade, lots of dust and 5 day packs.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUCAOvgbLxZy0SnX9v1BcwRuvDE47NRFs5SWY-GSGO0Zzfh_LunItNzxNk9XHnS8-gt_DXc8DWtnhiRgX0uwgNiay_9pkwkjsp1Pz2jsqk-Ir5b4h8hMwXMhvINjkaSQMi7375FNrN5zs2/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+022.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885577562690642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUCAOvgbLxZy0SnX9v1BcwRuvDE47NRFs5SWY-GSGO0Zzfh_LunItNzxNk9XHnS8-gt_DXc8DWtnhiRgX0uwgNiay_9pkwkjsp1Pz2jsqk-Ir5b4h8hMwXMhvINjkaSQMi7375FNrN5zs2/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+022.JPG" border="0" /></a> We got our first views of the Snow Dome. The snow dome is a massive shoulder-like portion of the mountain. You gain it from the left on summit day. It looked real close. But this portion of the approach stretched on and on.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZ2lx94rzZo20GR8PXzlsk_j32Um21il7h06oi_O-i1MftXGrenka_6BKVYbr03Ux9zE_x4610qpN6TE8t06wN3tb12OtxNWvbNYMf03D-q2hZFtCK59xSFwqRY3PTMsAQhhYXGCs6CJB/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+026.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885571862640306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZ2lx94rzZo20GR8PXzlsk_j32Um21il7h06oi_O-i1MftXGrenka_6BKVYbr03Ux9zE_x4610qpN6TE8t06wN3tb12OtxNWvbNYMf03D-q2hZFtCK59xSFwqRY3PTMsAQhhYXGCs6CJB/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+026.JPG" border="0" /></a>We set up camp at Glacier Meadows. The ranger here was the anti-thesis of Shawn, the friendly ranger back at Olympic Guard station. He was some power hungry little rodent. He hassled us and made everybody in the whole campground move around so that he could have his way. We had a bit of trouble on my first visit to the mountain but nothing like this. I was diplomatic but I already had visions of digging a cathole and burying him. A few people in the group were losing patience w/ him as he lectured us. I feared he wouldn't survive the night.<br /><div></div><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZl_2fcQn4oagBVHPHCHx3zUxEGu7eXJSCk5A2ECPJeyyD04_UN8eBFVQI39hP-XVVmZCzMDZgtMwj5kDDXGHX725a07WNNJmAjqH2RaZlIJY7NELUC1ScnzN1rcbh-Q0_G8od3LXkjFDO/s1600-h/DSC03689.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885123645208722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZl_2fcQn4oagBVHPHCHx3zUxEGu7eXJSCk5A2ECPJeyyD04_UN8eBFVQI39hP-XVVmZCzMDZgtMwj5kDDXGHX725a07WNNJmAjqH2RaZlIJY7NELUC1ScnzN1rcbh-Q0_G8od3LXkjFDO/s320/DSC03689.JPG" border="0" /></a> We were greated by the largest Billy Goat I had ever seen. I was waiting for the Ranger to come out and tell the goat to stay on the trail, and that the rocks are there for a reason.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrvDum4o4UXMTtZWYeoZo3vXzNug_CuhzOnuaszl0MlYrpl50aVohYd6MK4BPlbA1-JK2Zy2cbjeOr5B3a61f2fEjytks7XQIlNEV98PKo5yQxN_l0SCDeI_rIbRWb80bWRjnxIrLl8tt-/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+031.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885119362309906" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrvDum4o4UXMTtZWYeoZo3vXzNug_CuhzOnuaszl0MlYrpl50aVohYd6MK4BPlbA1-JK2Zy2cbjeOr5B3a61f2fEjytks7XQIlNEV98PKo5yQxN_l0SCDeI_rIbRWb80bWRjnxIrLl8tt-/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+031.JPG" border="0" /></a>I'm happily married but I've got to say, this Goat was the Brad Pitt of mountain goats. He was the best looking goat I've seen. He wasn't molting and he was very majestic looking. It appeared he just got back from the stylist and and had his Goat-tee sculpted. It was the first mtn goat Amy had seen close up, he didn't dissapoint.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoOXt2RFFfATKaOZ9-DKDNiZ88Ws-4D4CfAjTwGDLvXCLyTURVLSXjC1WL9aA0ekxJyugTyF3dtpb1qoVcxADgsVKSOAyEAvnHa9d8HUaGvITjoGjPTaWadsObotBClL1iwOSFDMldLarl/s1600-h/DSC03819.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885107578134530" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoOXt2RFFfATKaOZ9-DKDNiZ88Ws-4D4CfAjTwGDLvXCLyTURVLSXjC1WL9aA0ekxJyugTyF3dtpb1qoVcxADgsVKSOAyEAvnHa9d8HUaGvITjoGjPTaWadsObotBClL1iwOSFDMldLarl/s320/DSC03819.JPG" border="0" /></a>So this is the Blue glacier, it's more than a mile across if that gives you some idea of the scale. I didn't hike up to have a look before summit day. If I had, I would have seen that the center of the glacier was closed, the far side was openened up. Plus the whole thing was oblated. (fancy word that means all the snow was gone) We took this pic on the way out after summit day.</div><div></div><div>As I was crossing this in the moonless night, I felt like I was in a labrinth. On the far side, there were several man-eating crevasses. I had to pull together all of my Jedi power to navigate. In the end, it was pretty fun and not very dangerous at all.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNX9asl_VtO2I_9MdpT3-GAeKZAGLU1BG1KWpcgqlU9n6zFWl281wMqimzyRlmpfHUklercZj-Ta0J9682PwnWeKVw06Go7L5hbCK3224iaUl3hzYDS6vV38jjrsDe3fTyK_vcYUpRTZas/s1600-h/DSC03788.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885105915939538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 153px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNX9asl_VtO2I_9MdpT3-GAeKZAGLU1BG1KWpcgqlU9n6zFWl281wMqimzyRlmpfHUklercZj-Ta0J9682PwnWeKVw06Go7L5hbCK3224iaUl3hzYDS6vV38jjrsDe3fTyK_vcYUpRTZas/s320/DSC03788.JPG" border="0" /></a>This shot was also on the way down. I just wanted to give some idea of the route. I'm standing on top of the snow dome looking toward the summit. (the rounded feature dead center of the pic) You traverse from where I'm standing all the way passed the left edge of the photo to Crystal Pass. You arc back on the back side of the rock formations toward the summit. You have to go over or around a false summit and your there.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbm01LnjvZa-6YZZHGNnCPmS7V-ZcitmDBOtR0BWjoWdjOgr8UGSadbd9tr5nIbm-be_B9JXATfcTt-zwQO6zFi-qcjd6SL3qNvWF79XNaPHy3CGyZKNvT1IprsUMlaWe_bY6hO1denUvp/s1600-h/DSC03713.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366885098339025378" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbm01LnjvZa-6YZZHGNnCPmS7V-ZcitmDBOtR0BWjoWdjOgr8UGSadbd9tr5nIbm-be_B9JXATfcTt-zwQO6zFi-qcjd6SL3qNvWF79XNaPHy3CGyZKNvT1IprsUMlaWe_bY6hO1denUvp/s320/DSC03713.JPG" border="0" /></a>OK, back to the summit morning. After navigating the Blue, we started up the snow dome. There was lots more rock showing here than on my previous climb. It made for some fun and interesting unexposed scrambling on solid rock. If you fell here, you'd land on the person behind you and laugh. Unlike the other kind of fun scrambling where you can't fall.<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-h7ZwjEhhFHx2EIj3p_VlyNda4ruQGP0r0GAf6YhzgcZjYcSSLg2LZbO_ePKN4Z-5_0lr-sxYwyJuA757y1EzrkTjU3i9O-C75rXle8oKTrFHHl5I1uSqoojuoFt1K37uiAGuihHvuXmW/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+047.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884746054957170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-h7ZwjEhhFHx2EIj3p_VlyNda4ruQGP0r0GAf6YhzgcZjYcSSLg2LZbO_ePKN4Z-5_0lr-sxYwyJuA757y1EzrkTjU3i9O-C75rXle8oKTrFHHl5I1uSqoojuoFt1K37uiAGuihHvuXmW/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+047.JPG" border="0" /></a> Better yet, how bout nobody falls and we all laugh. We crossed through Crystal pass as the sun was rising. Because the overnight lows were in the low 60's, we started out at 12:30 am. Surprisingly, everybody felt great and we left before our scheduled departure time. The sunrise was awesome, pictures don't really show how it felt to be standing there.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh831mLmzXqATqayhSbFp5zU86LeZ6VgDFDPA-JFEqs8uUyCrkLdrYwEhvsjirsc1wiYSBcKJvu75Y0PR2mIq29FkV0egTLLMvDaxyhvUDYS5_llxcVexJArc3kCGpPyfph4FxJhAPfWdP9/s1600-h/DSC03716.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884737979684658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh831mLmzXqATqayhSbFp5zU86LeZ6VgDFDPA-JFEqs8uUyCrkLdrYwEhvsjirsc1wiYSBcKJvu75Y0PR2mIq29FkV0egTLLMvDaxyhvUDYS5_llxcVexJArc3kCGpPyfph4FxJhAPfWdP9/s320/DSC03716.JPG" border="0" /></a> Vaqas and I pose, doing our best to look like were not questioning why do this crazy stuff. Hey I've got a great idea, lets hike 18 miles in record temps and the wake up BEFORE the middle of the night, go climb a mountain, fall in a crevasse and then hike out, we'll sleep for a bit and then hike out some more! Yeah, I fell up to my hip in a completely hidden crevasse. It was a bit exciting. I'm sure my rope team had my back, right?<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirgBY4kuSQ0MRjY-ddR9CZMupHzox4CisuXj1RnNoxpqjnFgljBc9URpGAcWgZPMZ8rEPh7cuIn6-id69VyWxC_JN2F1C5maNzmDTtoCactXsqwJm3qiybuafmjtpEHvb4xkJCubv1SH5z/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+046.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884732659504466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirgBY4kuSQ0MRjY-ddR9CZMupHzox4CisuXj1RnNoxpqjnFgljBc9URpGAcWgZPMZ8rEPh7cuIn6-id69VyWxC_JN2F1C5maNzmDTtoCactXsqwJm3qiybuafmjtpEHvb4xkJCubv1SH5z/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+046.JPG" border="0" /></a>Bryon enjoys a 3 day old PB&J, mmm. Ok, so the sunrise turning the snow pink is worth it but still, we're all idiots.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj05ZeoYPZmXkqOcIneEfKApKRCqG3bl3KQyKV8I6dI-AHpxlu8pMHiBAkzjM6ddMdDhDrQwKCvxPI3C4edaujHHdupQ1cswzq4ht0aC9OYiojp6AggWqalCLKvuwXL2xHUId2fPrCtPrwB/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+048.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884724661264738" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj05ZeoYPZmXkqOcIneEfKApKRCqG3bl3KQyKV8I6dI-AHpxlu8pMHiBAkzjM6ddMdDhDrQwKCvxPI3C4edaujHHdupQ1cswzq4ht0aC9OYiojp6AggWqalCLKvuwXL2xHUId2fPrCtPrwB/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+048.JPG" border="0" /></a> Joanna enjoys some organic snack made from only the wholest of grains and from the most localest of ingredients. Having been on this route before, it was nice for me to just sit back and enjoy. I didn't have to be running ahead to try and guess what way we should be going and acting like I got it all together.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji-JX3Di8yu2gsX82dwr4m8Cyqg17B21FBbDSND2R6E4dqWoxrZGc5H2ySK83CdMP-3QCVqdL-bAbBj3LKo4iRn785tlfV1Ou5th8hlAMR2SLxI3lrkokHUuthN6Lf2oAzUsgEW2DxehqK/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+049.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884719404963842" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji-JX3Di8yu2gsX82dwr4m8Cyqg17B21FBbDSND2R6E4dqWoxrZGc5H2ySK83CdMP-3QCVqdL-bAbBj3LKo4iRn785tlfV1Ou5th8hlAMR2SLxI3lrkokHUuthN6Lf2oAzUsgEW2DxehqK/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+049.JPG" border="0" /></a> Vaqas, takes in the sunrise. It's always weird when it's 5:30 am and I'm craving a Deluxe Bacon cheeseburger. Though it was nice to not have to figure out the way, it is a part I enjoy. Some people don't like the uncertainty of not knowing for sure where they're going, I kind of thrive on the feeling and I think it brings out the best in me. If only I had a burger.<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDkKEi-Kd6Yn0Hu0C8niDEN-4bWtrfUfGQxQ3P_ZdMgCf2hSfsF3eS-LHOIHnx77rrqg3698ZNtjkSnpLqf6PRZb6_Ix1NFYhee_3rJ_4jGOp7KURHyYbT43uQ_4RSRM8_cBCGsVe2zHGY/s1600-h/DSC03727.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884225308771122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDkKEi-Kd6Yn0Hu0C8niDEN-4bWtrfUfGQxQ3P_ZdMgCf2hSfsF3eS-LHOIHnx77rrqg3698ZNtjkSnpLqf6PRZb6_Ix1NFYhee_3rJ_4jGOp7KURHyYbT43uQ_4RSRM8_cBCGsVe2zHGY/s320/DSC03727.JPG" border="0" /></a>Bryon gets ready to move his rope team. Another solid effort by Bryon as a co-pilot. He's such a good assistant, I don't want him to work toward's leadership. I know it sounds selfish, but that's me.</div><div>After working our way around the back side of crystal pass, we now had to find a way over/around/through the false summit.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdPLGl3alp7kG-yWEc98dVyT65XGlmErqO4CkXR0WLfcXpfqkVEL4Skj-GvFUtyHZHzUDGjuHUYfmlu7ZR2EL5jAPNpS9_6xK5T893abefKg-EtzjcG1o86r_vSH1GBPnHeAGP9piXQDrZ/s1600-h/DSC03732.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884214903572818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdPLGl3alp7kG-yWEc98dVyT65XGlmErqO4CkXR0WLfcXpfqkVEL4Skj-GvFUtyHZHzUDGjuHUYfmlu7ZR2EL5jAPNpS9_6xK5T893abefKg-EtzjcG1o86r_vSH1GBPnHeAGP9piXQDrZ/s320/DSC03732.JPG" border="0" /></a>When I climbed this route w/ Steve Dougherty a few years ago, we went over the top of 5 fingers (the false summit) It looks good on the way up but going down the back is a nasty scree funnel. Somebody almost got brained by a basketball sized zinger. I talked w/ Herb Fecker and he explained that you could go around it on the left. I thought what the heck, I'll give it a shot. The team waited as I pretended to know what I was doing and where I was going, still burgerless.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTkpjesj1EWCxxaOTPATf6qMu7u7BNTVJn2kfJj527LsaeIhlhH1llr8N8l9TvvuqmvzKhIp3TgELxh2K7OOzAwkx9imtp9nfwVmJ46Q-hYTkEHUzZYqhfyWktDlxXHKG5a25tglIJtYkw/s1600-h/DSC03726.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884212111861202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTkpjesj1EWCxxaOTPATf6qMu7u7BNTVJn2kfJj527LsaeIhlhH1llr8N8l9TvvuqmvzKhIp3TgELxh2K7OOzAwkx9imtp9nfwVmJ46Q-hYTkEHUzZYqhfyWktDlxXHKG5a25tglIJtYkw/s320/DSC03726.JPG" border="0" /></a>I like the look on my face, it says, that I don't know where I'm going and I'm almost certain half of us are going to die. If I play my cards right, I'll be amongst the remnant.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtRag0oUGUjonI3TvIQLK_o8UdoS6QIm9NiP0lQmvgoh6cwXW5DV2uUg1n8j8cX5vOTLRblJ0qnAEUwbxfIJXZTPhXlf8i3dKnRGyjeGQcIsrai0ByNilOhJ7DGFb97kSWvfOHex5F9H7/s1600-h/DSC03734.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884207502264306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTtRag0oUGUjonI3TvIQLK_o8UdoS6QIm9NiP0lQmvgoh6cwXW5DV2uUg1n8j8cX5vOTLRblJ0qnAEUwbxfIJXZTPhXlf8i3dKnRGyjeGQcIsrai0ByNilOhJ7DGFb97kSWvfOHex5F9H7/s320/DSC03734.JPG" border="0" /></a> The traverse looked very improbable. It had a section w/ lots of exposure. I was ready to turn around but then I thought what the heck, w/ a team of ten, it's very unlikely that they'll all fall. Even 5 summitters is a success right? We already had the ropes out so I I was able to set a fixed line in the time it took people to remove their crampons. It proved easier than it looked.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiArdlsICcF0FqQfVZ5hfVHIpiaIVuh1uMX_LrGXJteKNIdJd-Tosvq6ahYvo4rboGsDqQp36yARpYfgp7B-apwgry14QZtVT5htPebRBR0kqBrltb3UhXuJ_Ka0M7KGUVLLQQeJuIT708V/s1600-h/DSC03736.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366884203500407682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiArdlsICcF0FqQfVZ5hfVHIpiaIVuh1uMX_LrGXJteKNIdJd-Tosvq6ahYvo4rboGsDqQp36yARpYfgp7B-apwgry14QZtVT5htPebRBR0kqBrltb3UhXuJ_Ka0M7KGUVLLQQeJuIT708V/s320/DSC03736.JPG" border="0" /></a> Dan, works throught the traverse. The view down the gully was pretty phenomenol. You looked down a gully, off a cliff and onto a hanging glacier.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_dcyjZ5aj1KSbXkp_8xIXt_Cviucf30lUhyZatyPBFfKGiMoMN5-7AXriJZQEjYWUjFSXjZ3zYRXdEy0uqjyCd07yL08rwEHd39wgq1D4rfu3pzThuVPYOBoCQVB38HKwhsP_60B-bWU/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+050.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366883824480697666" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM_dcyjZ5aj1KSbXkp_8xIXt_Cviucf30lUhyZatyPBFfKGiMoMN5-7AXriJZQEjYWUjFSXjZ3zYRXdEy0uqjyCd07yL08rwEHd39wgq1D4rfu3pzThuVPYOBoCQVB38HKwhsP_60B-bWU/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+050.JPG" border="0" /></a> Joanna, finished up the traverse. On the way back down, everybody was comfortable enough that we didn't use a rope.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLaXovrd0xuokxQ16RRrPYZpTfvuFOk6_rMEUdhqA9ZySpYfO1tsg-WuvjQmy6RUq728AVR4vlDIW_jFRclUKSnoQztq8DYZ_-zZdhGgG_byNtsRkSJ_P-zROWFlfhdn1tk1yBcE3nQjF_/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+054.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366883818322361506" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLaXovrd0xuokxQ16RRrPYZpTfvuFOk6_rMEUdhqA9ZySpYfO1tsg-WuvjQmy6RUq728AVR4vlDIW_jFRclUKSnoQztq8DYZ_-zZdhGgG_byNtsRkSJ_P-zROWFlfhdn1tk1yBcE3nQjF_/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+054.JPG" border="0" /></a> The moat (generally the crux of the route) was a non-factor. There was a huge hole you could fall into but you could easily step onto the rock. A fall would have been unlikely but I set up an anchor. Mostly because we carried the dang pickets, it would be a drag to fall in the hole and stab my self w/ them.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Bpy37GdCbFBjy3pjk5ZaFgEf8uTrtg-8ZWpotw9mZNgiaRjvZBO2fAYTKdEhgd27q_shMlO3Vn-mgsBURPRMKKqy2zC9pzGn9d6cJnJITsZPw99ea6LoiTiK1NzYYMQ6sVS2Q_8igHdy/s1600-h/DSC03739.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366883807321962658" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1Bpy37GdCbFBjy3pjk5ZaFgEf8uTrtg-8ZWpotw9mZNgiaRjvZBO2fAYTKdEhgd27q_shMlO3Vn-mgsBURPRMKKqy2zC9pzGn9d6cJnJITsZPw99ea6LoiTiK1NzYYMQ6sVS2Q_8igHdy/s320/DSC03739.JPG" border="0" /></a> Tony built me slings out of everybody's long prussik's and their non lockers. No need to carry a bunch of additional slings, a Steve Dougherty trick.</div><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7xRw-E-rZyVEIO-IPToA_UkcCcBSltE6XyazFR0Mke9w3heHOiWjRua_Hfhv-k-SQ1fXKTHeBiIdCKM5JexvViMumi_A7h_91yJyrThPwrxEFJXjrPqaEJZveE3lrnO8Z1tAbQwKw_Rsd/s1600-h/DSC03752.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366883800911608786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7xRw-E-rZyVEIO-IPToA_UkcCcBSltE6XyazFR0Mke9w3heHOiWjRua_Hfhv-k-SQ1fXKTHeBiIdCKM5JexvViMumi_A7h_91yJyrThPwrxEFJXjrPqaEJZveE3lrnO8Z1tAbQwKw_Rsd/s320/DSC03752.JPG" border="0" /></a> We scrambled across the summit pinnacle unroped to the end of the traverse where I prepped the last fixed line. The route seems obvious now that I know it. A few years ago, we had a bit of trouble that almost put our trip in the epic category. As you traverse around the nose, there's some awesome exposure. A couple of exciting 5.4 moves on good rock and you're on the summit!<br /><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2vskT5Hff6llqND-tceAFnvGmtFzYLLsCZE83MsaP6Kuzd7XsP5aqNCpvG84s0KlfXne8ezNqhJkyfxt4LogoToiqZnipr1g_qw4DlQOPIiAZBls-MrN-iO8MJfSmdZwqEqKiKb0QXoMd/s1600-h/DSC03755.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366883795796928386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2vskT5Hff6llqND-tceAFnvGmtFzYLLsCZE83MsaP6Kuzd7XsP5aqNCpvG84s0KlfXne8ezNqhJkyfxt4LogoToiqZnipr1g_qw4DlQOPIiAZBls-MrN-iO8MJfSmdZwqEqKiKb0QXoMd/s320/DSC03755.JPG" border="0" /></a>Because Johns head is so dense, he doesn't need a helmet.<br /><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Plw2RdMjJcqzQGNwpimsMcWaOPVr5CLyIPbe4eBKaiM0Icf465HEi8m8o9wJtpIViTOo39kOGy_pm9iAI2rNsVSyxhISifnY-dHXcmcjlxCpz8-RpiiIrD71qWe_CSmEQq4sgkazlA3u/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+058.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366883340674866258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Plw2RdMjJcqzQGNwpimsMcWaOPVr5CLyIPbe4eBKaiM0Icf465HEi8m8o9wJtpIViTOo39kOGy_pm9iAI2rNsVSyxhISifnY-dHXcmcjlxCpz8-RpiiIrD71qWe_CSmEQq4sgkazlA3u/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+058.JPG" border="0" /></a> Markian tops out. Markian is from Bend but it seems like I get to climb w/ him once a year.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD0fNbbhykZyOOeHPxVeKh9GP0ud6LPjxehXW1GtfMBvYcklZqR8WfjaXMI-Yay6YPF6PDCDxixTyN5BGTP6amyx966crCPJ3EzG5OWCZ2-oqxVrgYQKbp24cpZrcFuGb6MwLlsNTeXU0n/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+059.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366883329132639826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD0fNbbhykZyOOeHPxVeKh9GP0ud6LPjxehXW1GtfMBvYcklZqR8WfjaXMI-Yay6YPF6PDCDxixTyN5BGTP6amyx966crCPJ3EzG5OWCZ2-oqxVrgYQKbp24cpZrcFuGb6MwLlsNTeXU0n/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+059.JPG" border="0" /></a> Tony, 1st year Chemeketan, tops out on one of the elusive of the 18 peaks.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCRLbOyLRMNJBcdlX1ujYg5t8lxiOXzzknNkpcieAYjXAF5D0scE34XlagDZpNLiUaIMZrSVC0iI0NvS0dgfh2kS1-v6clXTQnLjxnsxNKc-44SneIv40hsfPdDqfx_aMIc10mdQR6CeJ/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+060.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366883317655091202" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtCRLbOyLRMNJBcdlX1ujYg5t8lxiOXzzknNkpcieAYjXAF5D0scE34XlagDZpNLiUaIMZrSVC0iI0NvS0dgfh2kS1-v6clXTQnLjxnsxNKc-44SneIv40hsfPdDqfx_aMIc10mdQR6CeJ/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+060.JPG" border="0" /></a> Tony, Jerry "Tomb Raider" Croft, Markian and John Coyier were the first to the summit. Sorry, I forgot to take a summit shot of the whole team.<br /><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgadXZwdcDkU62RT2mXKvu0FmxU59cm4h6zIVp8trnr3h4T8e9pGl-JdKIG5HvAL7OQHH_BILv7RbkQjyFRNq0umNaAaAZY-n-4uMo468ZAoXQ43TIRaGWXlKLN7vk55eT7n_J-kANZuVw/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+061.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366883311127372018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgadXZwdcDkU62RT2mXKvu0FmxU59cm4h6zIVp8trnr3h4T8e9pGl-JdKIG5HvAL7OQHH_BILv7RbkQjyFRNq0umNaAaAZY-n-4uMo468ZAoXQ43TIRaGWXlKLN7vk55eT7n_J-kANZuVw/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+061.JPG" border="0" /></a> Dan stands on the summit ridge. What a view! Dan is quietly getting lots of experience in his two yeas w/ the club.<br /><div></div><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg14KVzMOUOgYD1wbzFpYMTjQJpWwi0a4bk1Pi1bDM1sxGtDAKOQBux7iruDNQ6vs0U77aSo9KB4h6sT_iWjyOtVRz4S5QGDT7L3J7BaRjbTAPYNzXibvCz1K2Kc0rXOIv6qjHQ298Vo3ge/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+064.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366881438168428066" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg14KVzMOUOgYD1wbzFpYMTjQJpWwi0a4bk1Pi1bDM1sxGtDAKOQBux7iruDNQ6vs0U77aSo9KB4h6sT_iWjyOtVRz4S5QGDT7L3J7BaRjbTAPYNzXibvCz1K2Kc0rXOIv6qjHQ298Vo3ge/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+064.JPG" border="0" /></a> Amy will probably beat me for putting this pic in here but I like that kind of stuff too.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglua7DLw8JMMY8H2ClWz5LOBnmXeqhyphenhyphen2q7BEKOGw8hAE-LiowPo72IwIqSkd46wlLB1WBIGf2i8V9n8ZjvsEl4Uciop3jMa0qdILmBTUmB4GRcyoNwymJOYgO_cvj_i4uEek0iqK3WluwV/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+069.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366881430215480370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglua7DLw8JMMY8H2ClWz5LOBnmXeqhyphenhyphen2q7BEKOGw8hAE-LiowPo72IwIqSkd46wlLB1WBIGf2i8V9n8ZjvsEl4Uciop3jMa0qdILmBTUmB4GRcyoNwymJOYgO_cvj_i4uEek0iqK3WluwV/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+069.JPG" border="0" /></a> Bryon's future screensaver!<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-q4peNunIYDHleijP2cqfX34GXP4o55g38nxekOt0y-HoD7P7Rf39C4Mlfil-6OEYm7zabhN2QMl2F9_Bx5L429U-HGbA-6-ynEM76UNPcDJRoVXe9fjM_8HSTNbNfNYoOlbG0JGWRBF/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+068.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366881423616788082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjT-q4peNunIYDHleijP2cqfX34GXP4o55g38nxekOt0y-HoD7P7Rf39C4Mlfil-6OEYm7zabhN2QMl2F9_Bx5L429U-HGbA-6-ynEM76UNPcDJRoVXe9fjM_8HSTNbNfNYoOlbG0JGWRBF/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+068.JPG" border="0" /></a>Vaqas is a good guy and a great person to have on your team but he's not nearly as cool as he looks in this pic!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkNRPu4-YY01WRkjOqC-ewEH_KWntCKobpEky6rLJO6tGo_onGaGmYWppf8HzfYBe7RPeNT11aFZ-R5s_IpWPDn8-ClIA1I7xccNLWKfXusXImEd3w9VwHavObj_O6n0ikT3QV0mhnXQq/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+067.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366881417236666914" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimkNRPu4-YY01WRkjOqC-ewEH_KWntCKobpEky6rLJO6tGo_onGaGmYWppf8HzfYBe7RPeNT11aFZ-R5s_IpWPDn8-ClIA1I7xccNLWKfXusXImEd3w9VwHavObj_O6n0ikT3QV0mhnXQq/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+067.JPG" border="0" /></a> Ahhh, how sweet.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy5aurHRDRKMIec20lZxvZMs0flbMfZab0yfIsXjJ8wHVp1wp82QlJI3bXC9qCTNwmUwTPsU6afrgFrJr1YNpHNt46MpEHr2M24LRHUpVPyAtElo1dPfCC0xWhR5C7ems3B65NQIdDB7cP/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+070.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366881410691294690" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy5aurHRDRKMIec20lZxvZMs0flbMfZab0yfIsXjJ8wHVp1wp82QlJI3bXC9qCTNwmUwTPsU6afrgFrJr1YNpHNt46MpEHr2M24LRHUpVPyAtElo1dPfCC0xWhR5C7ems3B65NQIdDB7cP/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+070.JPG" border="0" /></a>If you look closely, on the edge of the snow field, you can see some dots, that's the Princess Leah Impersonators! They kindly "allowed" us to have the first shift on the mountain. They came up the summit a different way and we didn't get in each others way. I was looking forward to dropping rock on them.<br /><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLq1JmLvDyg57qWZk5HBqIs6lYF-3JuyKGa0QvxkKaYaTGaMmMGph8mgkoOsT7RGn75qlpYNFJbR6Zj-4vD137XACxqimZPeIY8SJ_N5lZgYEHeLFspKFekTLFUJBBzY-ynWP1P_cUskTU/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+072.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366880772926519890" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLq1JmLvDyg57qWZk5HBqIs6lYF-3JuyKGa0QvxkKaYaTGaMmMGph8mgkoOsT7RGn75qlpYNFJbR6Zj-4vD137XACxqimZPeIY8SJ_N5lZgYEHeLFspKFekTLFUJBBzY-ynWP1P_cUskTU/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+072.JPG" border="0" /></a> We started heading down. It was demoralizing looking down the summit, down the Blue and seeing where camp was. It looked sooo far away. That was the good news. The bad news was we were heading back another nine miles today! Our permits where for Olympus Gaurd station.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbO_843p3xEtarZtO-ZWeS9BIwrwENulzNNw1m6Zgl35uJwz4WU425v0Cct5YhYnXm1JPIm-uGHEj0kNYTnuFNyPOQMRHEeFobq8BVa8-wFvBs0_b-r6Tpi9tti6_ehACxMEVnXwbP1tNj/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+092.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366880761860286562" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbO_843p3xEtarZtO-ZWeS9BIwrwENulzNNw1m6Zgl35uJwz4WU425v0Cct5YhYnXm1JPIm-uGHEj0kNYTnuFNyPOQMRHEeFobq8BVa8-wFvBs0_b-r6Tpi9tti6_ehACxMEVnXwbP1tNj/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+092.JPG" border="0" /></a>Jerry lead us down the snow dome, staying on snow all but 30', very nice. He gained the glacier high and found the very easy way down glacier. Very Yoda like. The oldest of the Jedi's.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuGpoRdoqEP-b6IafdEz-Bfp_IM9_Dcn6PVYh_U4fvMqPPq1AUB3YNCSxirADJZTQ9C4bkbjIq7RMa8CwdlZnt_OrKJm_XwODGt6r4P1_Ln-bh-aTvAOuCiI9DOM7YUHSQg7EU_6flNob/s1600-h/DSC03800.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366880760337583698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNuGpoRdoqEP-b6IafdEz-Bfp_IM9_Dcn6PVYh_U4fvMqPPq1AUB3YNCSxirADJZTQ9C4bkbjIq7RMa8CwdlZnt_OrKJm_XwODGt6r4P1_Ln-bh-aTvAOuCiI9DOM7YUHSQg7EU_6flNob/s320/DSC03800.JPG" border="0" /></a>The temps were in the high 80's low 90's on the glacier! I was very glad to have left early. As we crossed the Blue, there were tons of spots where you could have gone tubing all the way down to the glacial terminus, unless of course you fell in a crevasse. Some of the biggest crevasses were full of water, very interesting. We arrived at camp and the Jedi warriors packed up and headed out. We dispensed beta to the teams that were heading up the next night. They told us that they had to shew a bear out of camp. Where's Keith when we need him! We made it to camp at the Guard station and it's hard to express how beat up our feet felt. Imagaine a blacksmith, an anvil and the bottom of your feet. Something like that.</div><div></div><div>Tim and Jade headed down a few hours behind us. In the morning of day four, my team began trickling out of camp and headed to the car. I figured after such a long haul, I should go last to make sure everybody made it out OK. Jade had said Tim wasn't feeling well, I figured I should check on the Princess Leah wanna - bee's. Tim had begun puking and was getting dehydrated. I stopped John Coyier, Amy and Bryon. We split some of Tim's gear and help haul it out. </div><div></div><div>Amy and John went on to catch the group and let them know Bryon and I would be slow coming out. Bryon and I decided we'd hike out w/ Tim and Jade. We started out making a 100 yards progress at a time. Tim was overheating and he couldn't sweat anymore. Soon he was down to 100' per break. He was severly dehydrated (puking every hundred feet will do that to you), it was almost 100 degrees. We did our best to keep him cool. Dumping cold water on him was kind of fun and he started cussing at me. It was still fun.<br /></div><div>I'm guessing he had a spoiled carrot? Maybe heat exhaustion/low electrolytes? Either way, he's toughest vegetarian I know. I'm going to have to start rethinking my ideas on vegetarians. </div><div></div><div>It was evident that we needed to stop him, get him some shade and cool his core before he died. At just the right time, Wild bill's group began trickling in, they abondoned their Bailey trip because of wicked blisters and crazy heat. A good call as their route had no shade. Keith "the Bear Wrestler" Hill scouted a head and found a good shady spot by the river for us to store Tim. Bill showed up and offered to stay w/ Tim and Jade. Bryon and I were free!</div><div></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwY5yJfgwuVjOeKnp2wb2Cno0XojqfB_txQZe_jT8JNrqW9hL7MFOO3prlDlG87ysKxo5HwsdiGtw8mFxZqaR-iTNpdvKYRHBVDgLmPbSB4NQKeqZtPsjviL3HSAwdAbPKnPiFJXPzXEm/s1600-h/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+101.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366880746736960402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnwY5yJfgwuVjOeKnp2wb2Cno0XojqfB_txQZe_jT8JNrqW9hL7MFOO3prlDlG87ysKxo5HwsdiGtw8mFxZqaR-iTNpdvKYRHBVDgLmPbSB4NQKeqZtPsjviL3HSAwdAbPKnPiFJXPzXEm/s320/Mt.+Olympus_July+2009+101.JPG" border="0" /></a>Bryon and I shared double carrying Tim's pack. I like this picture because it makes it look like I rescued Tim and carried all of his stuff. The facts are Tim didn't need rescuing and four of us carried his stuff. John Coyier had so much energy that he went for a four mile jog. (he forgot his camera) Bryon and I drank about 2 gallons of water each getting to the cars. We had 3 ropes, 4 pairs of crampons 3 tents four pairs of footwear, some clothes and 3 ice axes. Did I mention it was 100 degrees. By the time we got to the cars, a rescue was initiated. </div><div></div><div>The group hearing of the semi-emergency told the rangers. The rangers thought the symptoms sounded severe enough to warrant a horse evacuation. I tried to tell them that Tim was doing better but I think they wanted to be on the safe side. Heatsroke is deadly, one minute your hot, the next your dead. The Rangers caught up w/ him and he was making steady progress. He told them that he didn't need the horse and wanted to walk it out. The horse was never deployed. The Rangers were crazy helpful. I give them an A+. They were very kind and did everything right, which was in huge contrast to the guy at high camp. No rangers were harmed BTW.</div><div></div><div>While we were waiting to receive Tim and Crew, we went down the road for some real food. I had the Olympus burger and a deluxe double cheese burger, you can never be too safe.</div><div></div><div>The Chemeketans put 19 people on the summit of Olympus on the hottest day on record. Including 7 people over the age of 50! The foggies are setting the bar very high. I'm in awe of their ability to put in long days, especially our summit day, return to camp and then half way out. Very impressive, If I can be half as good, when I'm their age, it'll be a victory. I know it's hard to tell if this paragraph is a compliment or a put down but trust me its both!</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-9335490402358441892009-07-20T11:07:00.001-07:002009-07-21T14:18:09.259-07:00Forbidden Peak E & W Ridge TraverseForbidden Peak 8,815'. East Ridge Direct to West Ridge<br /><strong><span style="color:#ff0000;">Please Click the Pictures, the scenery is Amazing!</span></strong><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjRGR_jYiaciC0upmbCVonfSVjeOvpGDyrrpjBaJApo9AT-kEv2yQwvJYSVjYpY1UE2RECLlFVMtNS9FIPFHQ5za5Pn_dJ2YCyGvbteoVIdrS1jVwU-4hyeUU3T6MuSGdYv5kW-2ZcT-8t/s1600-h/Matts+pics+513.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618927163746578" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjRGR_jYiaciC0upmbCVonfSVjeOvpGDyrrpjBaJApo9AT-kEv2yQwvJYSVjYpY1UE2RECLlFVMtNS9FIPFHQ5za5Pn_dJ2YCyGvbteoVIdrS1jVwU-4hyeUU3T6MuSGdYv5kW-2ZcT-8t/s320/Matts+pics+513.JPG" border="0" /></a>I was looking for long alpine rock routes (10pitches or more) and one that continually came up was the W Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Talking w/ Tim Hale and Ellen Gradison, they said climb the E ridge and go down the W ridge, it'll be more fun. That sounded like a good idea when I was sitting at Horsethief Butte.<br /><br /><br />Big John and Rick Barry were game but we got rained out on our date for the W Ridge.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Let me introduce you to my friend Matt Lund.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360718098665992546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVXy3my0aeCRwmegBgdeqHKy-enLw1-87XUPmyy3v2P1ws8qkLMFTJcWQsn-SLq8ySmuNCf0-yNeINYCEhZs825vgjHy0XPAPQHOLUCPI682S2bVAuPc4OYSVt8djvZ5ZJXIhg_e3bzRX4/s320/Forbidden_July09+021.JPG" border="0" />I met Matt almost 10 years ago when he was 15 years old. We were both mountain bikers and there were alot of stoners in the mountain biking crowd at the time. Matt was never into "normal" things that kids did and he definetly fit in better w/ grown ups. I was afraid that he'd fall in w/ the "bad" crowd. It was easy to see he was a good kid. Little did I know, I was the "bad" crowd. For ten years, I've tried to encourage Matt and help him grow into an adult. Now he's the age I was when I met him. As much as I've encouraged him, he's encouraged me to be a good role model. He just graduated from college and we were going to celebrate. This was going to be the best climb of my life.<br /><br /><br /><br />Matt has crazy endurance and he's a good rock climber. This would be his first technical alpine rock climb and alpine rock is so much different than a crag route. He had his work cut out for him. Matt has always jumped into things w/ both feet. (hmm... I wonder where he gets it?)<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Oj3JLyMCaJ4_2qjK_M-9A6LZNyQZGfym7_SIFtW1KD9Ouh5_8V9CfIrDEkt_hnK7nv8Z-Fa3ujShOfmxt_dajczg0q5VGIGVEykBScEt78Z5qXn1waYvEcYRbpYJencXLy86p_Lr8Qa5/s1600-h/Matts+pics+528.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618734975537490" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2Oj3JLyMCaJ4_2qjK_M-9A6LZNyQZGfym7_SIFtW1KD9Ouh5_8V9CfIrDEkt_hnK7nv8Z-Fa3ujShOfmxt_dajczg0q5VGIGVEykBScEt78Z5qXn1waYvEcYRbpYJencXLy86p_Lr8Qa5/s320/Matts+pics+528.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div align="center"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Not an original idea but you can't help but straddle this thing and throw a hand in the air!</span></div><br />We couldn't get permits for the Boston Basin so we were going have to sleep in the car and make a humongous day of it. I spoke to the ranger on the way in and she said that we wouldn't be able to navigate the avy debris on the trail and that we should wait till daylight to start the route. Before we even started we were 3 hours behind schedule. Lesson 1: Rangers have to be conservative.<br /><br /><br /><br />People often camp at the base of the route the day before and the day after the climb. Some will climb the E or W Ridge car to car. I didn't find any reports of people doing both Ridges car to car. We were going to have to haul butt or abondon the W ridge and do the rappel route. We'd decide later. Lesson #2 When you get ideas from Tim and Ellen, Beware:-)<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBoi5Bw9usCGPtgW8DbNdtB_eNHwPT4VYMrrvDYKrldIyO6KmVSHSSNo93QGdyMQlNFKL1PE1xTwCQRBdRplW_cCO_JyC8CVOu-cPntBW_tC1KmOMGErqpI1vTVo_FQkxOtizgjey2viLH/s1600-h/Matts+pics+512.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618726499282018" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBoi5Bw9usCGPtgW8DbNdtB_eNHwPT4VYMrrvDYKrldIyO6KmVSHSSNo93QGdyMQlNFKL1PE1xTwCQRBdRplW_cCO_JyC8CVOu-cPntBW_tC1KmOMGErqpI1vTVo_FQkxOtizgjey2viLH/s320/Matts+pics+512.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br />We reached the basin and we were disappointed that we didn't start earlier. All day long we were racing the clock, trying to get the time back. The avy debris turned out to be very simple to navigate and could easily have been done in the dark.<br /><br /><br /><br />One of the hard things about this type of route is deciding what to bring. Boots or approach shoes? Performance rock shoes or all day rock shoes? Crampons and Ice axe or just one? Which one? Bivy Gear? Just a jacket and pad? We each decided for ourselves. We took different stuff but at the end of the day we agreed that we each packed right.<br /><br /><br /><br />I love climbing a route that I haven't climbed before. It was extra exciting since I hadn't even been to the Boston Basin, I was amazed at the beauty.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi71LMWaxLNkYozx7XCThQWN3RLGe4KvIRH5EfBYMH74WbIFmOVuNkTSP-C6xQJYKOHFW0skJOIUofkd4raERkScg7LDDLATliennUK0WO_nuUk3PoYDGZX1zehLaRoLSWvCB0qaYvFLTT8/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+007.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618719294893394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi71LMWaxLNkYozx7XCThQWN3RLGe4KvIRH5EfBYMH74WbIFmOVuNkTSP-C6xQJYKOHFW0skJOIUofkd4raERkScg7LDDLATliennUK0WO_nuUk3PoYDGZX1zehLaRoLSWvCB0qaYvFLTT8/s320/Forbidden_July09+007.JPG" border="0" /></a> The wild flowers were already in bloom and Johannesberg Mtn was an excellent backdrop to a glorious climb. Every step of the way, I had to fight the urge to pull out the camera.<br /></div><br /><div>I scoped out potential routes for next years early season climbing. J-bergs North Face looked full of potential.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzuYmCqRmU4ZeEiw_SXRTLuayBm7-8oZ9j6RXCmR9TcsToSpOFD3KuCq0M6XwVoCUadkzatDgNwx3_ArHxC-Y0mruytIYCokI2zmnypnw-WeWAoPM0k9V9AUYqmKKC3eOilWQt6lpRYOoF/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+002.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618713263325250" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzuYmCqRmU4ZeEiw_SXRTLuayBm7-8oZ9j6RXCmR9TcsToSpOFD3KuCq0M6XwVoCUadkzatDgNwx3_ArHxC-Y0mruytIYCokI2zmnypnw-WeWAoPM0k9V9AUYqmKKC3eOilWQt6lpRYOoF/s320/Forbidden_July09+002.JPG" border="0" /></a> The route finding was rather straight forward. We could walk on the snow (the fast way) or scramble the rock on the giant buttress that ajoined the E ridge. (the fun way) We naturally scrambled the 4th class buttress. After just a few minutes, I was enjoying myself so much I forgot I had a long stressful route ahead of me.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilRPAlu-ntcWvaLNFZvuiLrqrSQ4S48fPiu3LZ4OPDLhkpJ7fCYVvZ1bytNQR3F6CqGXsxQsdCWUQ0HyKHubSs4tTTQsN5bFetU7jJE63KRuKPsr4lYsS4bIlTlSb6bc11_fgPmoCbMaqI/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+011.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618711242330610" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 238px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilRPAlu-ntcWvaLNFZvuiLrqrSQ4S48fPiu3LZ4OPDLhkpJ7fCYVvZ1bytNQR3F6CqGXsxQsdCWUQ0HyKHubSs4tTTQsN5bFetU7jJE63KRuKPsr4lYsS4bIlTlSb6bc11_fgPmoCbMaqI/s320/Forbidden_July09+011.JPG" border="0" /></a> At the top of the buttress an amazing thing happened. Matt got tired! For the last ten years I've judged my fitness based on how bad Matt would whoop me. Today, the shoe was on the other foot. He insists he was dehydrated but I like to think I've caught up w/ him. I had to document that I was in the lead w/ this picture. I'm sure next time he'll blow me away but I'll take what I can get.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>At about 7000' feet we left the buttress and donned crampons. I put mine on my approach shoes and he put his on his boots. The snow angle was +/- 35 degree sidehill. Maybe a bit steeper at the top. (I dreaded the idea of leading pitch after pitch w/ my heavy boots in my pack so I opted for sneakers)<br /><div></div><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-fXN6g_W_Td9FeAXCtswWYokkqmkO6BHUdYW4VR6GT0Vg87A6MQeSR7SGsFt8Ecz2gP-QgrFUowg1mYZIFUVml8K1jIBUEC73eR_b8tJWam32sKLGB7dZtrNLhKRT6-pfDBOumxyKRMS/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+016.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618290776138498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjE-fXN6g_W_Td9FeAXCtswWYokkqmkO6BHUdYW4VR6GT0Vg87A6MQeSR7SGsFt8Ecz2gP-QgrFUowg1mYZIFUVml8K1jIBUEC73eR_b8tJWam32sKLGB7dZtrNLhKRT6-pfDBOumxyKRMS/s320/Forbidden_July09+016.JPG" border="0" /></a>The photo above shows the decent gully on the West ridge notch. If you look carefully, You can see a BD tent at the Top of the gully. We studied it as best as we could and decided it was reasonable. Onward we went. At times we were walking on snow, at times we were scrambling 3rd-4th class rock w/ crampons. On a side note, crampons climb rock very well and it wouldn't be hard to imagine myself sampling technical mixed climbs.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMlycfR4cWAtOtiBiUfrKFtpKu7sDLbEoX9xV4ReqF2zey7iHUw-obutPFe0Gyt3EBNlLsuNWP414-3niXIULepDp1BDcbcDEDaK_A_KrphYViWjX6tRFlxgV-dRBTWd0yRIr5Ddw4mDmr/s1600-h/Matts+pics+521.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618286418949762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMlycfR4cWAtOtiBiUfrKFtpKu7sDLbEoX9xV4ReqF2zey7iHUw-obutPFe0Gyt3EBNlLsuNWP414-3niXIULepDp1BDcbcDEDaK_A_KrphYViWjX6tRFlxgV-dRBTWd0yRIr5Ddw4mDmr/s320/Matts+pics+521.JPG" border="0" /></a>We gained the ridge and took our first break. Here's a shot down the N side of the East ridge. (the ridge actually trends SE but who am I to argue)<br /><br />There was a group of 5 climbers already there! My fears of waiting behind a group were alleviated when we learned they were going to climb the E ledges on the N side of the ridge. They were +/- 500-1000' below us most of the day. It was kind of fun to see their eyes. I know what they were thinking "what are those idiots doing on those towers!"<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxv0v43wuJQlY03-67pUtAtiL0Tqh9Jsaa9eNjsv2vCQQqwvE70kFrFP4q75Vx2GNq5Dd1igI5aYAT29u7Z1mPZDBlpa9zwzk7vCcpB-L1BT2NQmDa4qPXMJq7EmaxLqJHoISFvatYLUh/s1600-h/Matts+pics+522.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618280337846146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWxv0v43wuJQlY03-67pUtAtiL0Tqh9Jsaa9eNjsv2vCQQqwvE70kFrFP4q75Vx2GNq5Dd1igI5aYAT29u7Z1mPZDBlpa9zwzk7vCcpB-L1BT2NQmDa4qPXMJq7EmaxLqJHoISFvatYLUh/s320/Matts+pics+522.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here's a shot down the S side of the E ridge. Right in the heart of North Cascades National Park. You can see Glacier Peak off in the distance. The nearby surrounding mountains were Boston Peak, Sahale, Eldorado, Buckner and tons more. </div><div><br />Our strategy was to simulclimb the route and only belay the pitches that were 5.7 or harder. As it turned out we belayed just several moves and two 30m pitches. I read that you can bypass the technical difficulties to the right and left side of the ridge crest. Our plan was to stay right on the ridge crest and get our money's worth. Lesson #3 Where there are Gendarmes/Towers, confident downclimbing is more important than climbing 5.12.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLZDQ-aumg8NV0-_MMZjXE7PxwPHOA5O08RSYqK6TiAvw6wOn5nROXfFo2MFIhzSqOKCQCjxPuGvs_-V9osfyaZUMyNlFSLErn7fBTnEnd_9C3_Er8wHJHx1_z5PqILAdRizwESXuPn1mf/s1600-h/Matts+pics+523.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618276466750098" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLZDQ-aumg8NV0-_MMZjXE7PxwPHOA5O08RSYqK6TiAvw6wOn5nROXfFo2MFIhzSqOKCQCjxPuGvs_-V9osfyaZUMyNlFSLErn7fBTnEnd_9C3_Er8wHJHx1_z5PqILAdRizwESXuPn1mf/s320/Matts+pics+523.JPG" border="0" /></a>OK so I admit this isn't my best picture but this is where the climbing starts. Twenty feet in and we face our first tower. It was going to be a long day. The route is known for its relentless exposure, it didn't disappoint. There was only a section or two where a mistep wouldn't send you 2000' down onto the glacier. I enjoyed the views; unaccostomed to places like this, Matt had to put his big boy pants on.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga9UnUrODtggzjhSWaUde7bg44aZYFOtk_iwXKu22um4nIJVnzOMdv4IeYyLPlOuLkry9DCSIfllL7mih7PYbn4O7yfHQJEdnWUsJ1ORb2L7I4vO7m_4YfQ15_oPs4esRQKS7X68v1sTLT/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+023.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360618264978451458" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga9UnUrODtggzjhSWaUde7bg44aZYFOtk_iwXKu22um4nIJVnzOMdv4IeYyLPlOuLkry9DCSIfllL7mih7PYbn4O7yfHQJEdnWUsJ1ORb2L7I4vO7m_4YfQ15_oPs4esRQKS7X68v1sTLT/s320/Forbidden_July09+023.JPG" border="0" /></a> After a few pitches Matt got used to the precarious position and he was soon having fun. If you look close, you can see Matt clinging to the rock, high above the Boston Glacier.<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgad-WWxarG5l6ne5WiNARpoXAU5n72F4vGtIplinLrmd-T3ZiSDWrj46F2E7CSs8J3srFmjFhQdgjga5rXiwzX1wWWLyTDByZc88BYgjLp0Lm12TUrR-b0ko9Ndwx0_NWuC3FVfOEk90OY/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+024.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360617817165332722" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgad-WWxarG5l6ne5WiNARpoXAU5n72F4vGtIplinLrmd-T3ZiSDWrj46F2E7CSs8J3srFmjFhQdgjga5rXiwzX1wWWLyTDByZc88BYgjLp0Lm12TUrR-b0ko9Ndwx0_NWuC3FVfOEk90OY/s320/Forbidden_July09+024.JPG" border="0" /></a>We were unable to get any good pictures of the actually climbing, we were focussed on the whole, don't fall and belay thing. Matt is enjoying one of the few places where you can actually stand.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvKSH7pqT_dypK4wmkQxDxOpg-BVdcAemfEXQGnpInWFeqXi_upuDGnRXNiv6ItykmcZmVq7MeW1ub-r7HlRakP6FRiEg3USIlx2Mehr9ms6vuelV3K3SurOLlLKZY7V2k-g1in5-ZZ1NU/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+026.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360617813426981474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvKSH7pqT_dypK4wmkQxDxOpg-BVdcAemfEXQGnpInWFeqXi_upuDGnRXNiv6ItykmcZmVq7MeW1ub-r7HlRakP6FRiEg3USIlx2Mehr9ms6vuelV3K3SurOLlLKZY7V2k-g1in5-ZZ1NU/s320/Forbidden_July09+026.JPG" border="0" /></a> Atop one of many towers, Matt takes a break. I had a chance to get some much needed water. We took a 60m 1/2 rope and doubled it for the climbing, but we'd still have a full rope length for the rappels. You had to use descretion where to put pro. Too much, you'll spend the night on route, to little, your confidence in the simulclimb fades. This worked pretty good. Most of the towers were intimidating from far but w/ micro route finding we managed to find the most difficult way up each and every one:-)<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYM92-TSnMqw2HBUp9_kHpc2t9dVKbaXZQ2FOGzTxjjsynliPPapm2-KJsM4sqqkfTmqdGhy53Aj3ga3TQ5doVIi_z3ioVWlytcnvpICp2RuLM_toEWCrfGG5J6uaMM8xy5buOZj1YezM6/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+028.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360617806020006418" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYM92-TSnMqw2HBUp9_kHpc2t9dVKbaXZQ2FOGzTxjjsynliPPapm2-KJsM4sqqkfTmqdGhy53Aj3ga3TQ5doVIi_z3ioVWlytcnvpICp2RuLM_toEWCrfGG5J6uaMM8xy5buOZj1YezM6/s320/Forbidden_July09+028.JPG" border="0" /></a> The rock wasn't nearly as good as I hoped it would be. There was alot of loose rock. Even the "good" rock was just big boulders/fins that would wiggle but wouldn't pull off. However, where the climbing was challenging, the rock was mostly solid. That's all you can ask of an alpine route. Haydar, the rock quality snob, would of hated it. By the end of the day, Matt was calling me the Hoss of Choss.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKRKteRG1MPGV_p4ksO1I1gttkt1t1NitjJ8_dB4f2qbtxmlZBI8o4_WU0o4C7Hs5GylKxQiyO6midgsjmon1qIYnhB2l3moeYtM_AIbJf-L_8f7aWLuZq_q7vVYFpTXgeLzPk1-yiv4k9/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+031.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360617799046616754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKRKteRG1MPGV_p4ksO1I1gttkt1t1NitjJ8_dB4f2qbtxmlZBI8o4_WU0o4C7Hs5GylKxQiyO6midgsjmon1qIYnhB2l3moeYtM_AIbJf-L_8f7aWLuZq_q7vVYFpTXgeLzPk1-yiv4k9/s320/Forbidden_July09+031.JPG" border="0" /></a>The route likes little gear. I regularly had 1 and 2 inch cams on my harness but was running out of .3-.5 C4's and C3's. If I would have doubled these sizes and brought more slings, we likely could have saved an hour by reducing regroup points. Small nuts were helpful but on many parts of the ridge, you didn't know which side of the route your second would decide to fall off of. Opposing gear was out of the question for time's sake so I used up the cams fast.<br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAsyad1F0chnEkGcvZLCfomFYP9rIGIxNOAmF_OqvFl6xlSZe4X8sUiOqFHF6iMwxZ6W_B5HTp0V595stVaEkPP1zZ8s18X7U7gD2nrjLdGEqHvaTwxjBtkV7KR1hUtuni7AU_c85USUD4/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+033.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360617793440590530" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAsyad1F0chnEkGcvZLCfomFYP9rIGIxNOAmF_OqvFl6xlSZe4X8sUiOqFHF6iMwxZ6W_B5HTp0V595stVaEkPP1zZ8s18X7U7gD2nrjLdGEqHvaTwxjBtkV7KR1hUtuni7AU_c85USUD4/s320/Forbidden_July09+033.JPG" border="0" /></a> I'm sitting atop a 100' tower on a 2000' ridge hanging by my harness to get this shot of Matt starting up the layback pitch. This is the coolest place I've belayed from. From here, we rappelled into a notch to prepare for the last fixed belay. We were just a pitch and a long simul pitch from the summit!<br /><br />The crux pitch is a 30m slightly overhanging tower. Maybe it's vertical, but w/ a pack and shtuff, it felt a little strenous. I've learned hauling packs takes a crazy amount of time so we'd just climb w/ them. There's a key spike that you use for a foothold. It's kind of wiggly so you just barely use it. I used a small intermediate hand hold, as I was reaching for the finishing bucket hold, a bug flew into my eye! Doesn't that figure, I winked and winked to no avail. I did a few more moves and had to watch the bug walk across my eyeball.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwwqyjgXw8NlBXbgLFtYLklNltIvsD6xJ9teRPEZEAapkE03ZtCfVioT07ArU__O-GSTrU6tORytPqwNByG7Be-IZb8z1wubvPGpeLMd4uBFen54AjeGef1kwAzhZUczu8ih4Dr-XgFRkT/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+035.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360617403576608226" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwwqyjgXw8NlBXbgLFtYLklNltIvsD6xJ9teRPEZEAapkE03ZtCfVioT07ArU__O-GSTrU6tORytPqwNByG7Be-IZb8z1wubvPGpeLMd4uBFen54AjeGef1kwAzhZUczu8ih4Dr-XgFRkT/s320/Forbidden_July09+035.JPG" border="0" /></a> This is the kind of view/exposure you had every step of the way on the E ridge. The pictures don't do it justice and you'll have to see for yourself. At the summit, we could see 3 other parties from the other routes working their way down the W Ridge rappel variation. We had to decide if we were going to do the E ridge rappel route (by all accounts the E ridge rappel route puts you back on terra firma in 1-2 hours), the W Ridge rappel route or down climb the 5.6 W ridge. I thought that if we were efficient, we could down climb the W Ridge and pace the rappellers. I also knew if we got stuck behind everybody, we'd risk an open bivy. They'd be able to sleep in their tents in the Basin. If we took the E ridge rappel route, we would very likely sleep in sleeping bags at the car. That seemed to be the logical choice. Right?</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Matt is one of the very few people who I know who enjoy adventure in all of its forms. Many say they love adventure but they don't actually enjoy the Yin and the Yang of adventure. They like the beautiful views and seeing new things but they don't necessarily enjoy the fear and uncertainty that often come w/ real adventure. Neither Matt nor I trembled at the thought of an open bivy in the relatively warm evening that was forecasted. So we downclimbed the W Ridge. We drove a long way and hiked a long way to get here, like I said, we wanted our money's worth.<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360768984720043538" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnUzEFUta38sL4lW9AcRmPzUpN_Knnowux7XXGln-fvsdKFmoSs-oDVaF_MCm0OX3kucZ4EmIr7k8f1Jx_QZ20ttduY2SDp8Cghm2P-P9hJr-QjYfY_jQUeepaACMidy2E62axmNNmpB8C/s320/Forbidden_July09+036.JPG" border="0" />This was the magnificent view down the W ridge. You can see that the W ridge has a completely different flavor. The E ridge has a highwire feel to it (not that its super difficult) where the W ridge has more of a side walk feel to it. In the red shirt is Patrick, a Portland area guy who we joined forces w/ for the rappel. They climbed the W Ridge and also had to get back to the car that night.<br /></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2tD6DmhyphenhyphenLIjRT1lYRJKlpA9szNbe91GbqTDh1-LHeEg5uUhsdCx159HlDUOHzJcKhZRR9Yg-2kWMUTzJJujUgVzdlRq7603KTAUeNh9K11q32iOsTZEdUe8yqpDmuB-fYnx6EXU29e_S/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+038.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360617386294436274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX2tD6DmhyphenhyphenLIjRT1lYRJKlpA9szNbe91GbqTDh1-LHeEg5uUhsdCx159HlDUOHzJcKhZRR9Yg-2kWMUTzJJujUgVzdlRq7603KTAUeNh9K11q32iOsTZEdUe8yqpDmuB-fYnx6EXU29e_S/s320/Forbidden_July09+038.JPG" border="0" /></a>Bill and Patrick, Matt and I all put together a strategy to get off the mountain and it was nice to meet some new mountain friends. They were both mountain savy and I expect that I'll climb w/ Patric before too long.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_jsbQIMgXAcnIWh8qeJiQ2sApn-xotVQToJCNXryekJppE_K49WGAD-wQFHPzPI2PUszHlQdF6Tp_VqvQQ3aGRbf3LszeBFtObGzSW2oNWzGZqb1NTkH87Ow_D1URTDaYONbD4V7rWII/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+040.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360617380179813682" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7_jsbQIMgXAcnIWh8qeJiQ2sApn-xotVQToJCNXryekJppE_K49WGAD-wQFHPzPI2PUszHlQdF6Tp_VqvQQ3aGRbf3LszeBFtObGzSW2oNWzGZqb1NTkH87Ow_D1URTDaYONbD4V7rWII/s320/Forbidden_July09+040.JPG" border="0" /></a> A word on rappelling. The group ahead of us that slowed us down took exceptionally long to rig a rappel. (they didn't slow us down because they were idiots just because rappelling is slow) I'm not certain what they were doing but there was a very easy slingable horn that they chose not to use. The rock they slung had an awkward angle to it. When the last person was on rappel, I looked it over to check its integrity. The stinking sling almost slid off the rock before my very eyes. It slid about 5 inches, if it would have slid 7, they'd of had a very different experience. We decided to downclimb as much as we could but had to rappel past this monster cavern/collapsed snow bridge.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicv7S6YqP7B-_NrUdVs1NjEDYOjwgxcwqmGPf6Uuo2a3ZkzQG46e9jDGtJkT99KCrKVZSDgIpXi0JzUnzwb3O-mTmPyFVYAfgxsNNDgvv7JoPNHkVpxZhu2gRD5PX7E_BQZIatzAp6cLpY/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+041.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360617376248392194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicv7S6YqP7B-_NrUdVs1NjEDYOjwgxcwqmGPf6Uuo2a3ZkzQG46e9jDGtJkT99KCrKVZSDgIpXi0JzUnzwb3O-mTmPyFVYAfgxsNNDgvv7JoPNHkVpxZhu2gRD5PX7E_BQZIatzAp6cLpY/s320/Forbidden_July09+041.JPG" border="0" /></a> This was our last rappel. It left us on 50 degree snow. The snow was too soft for crampons so Matt used his boots, I had my approach shoes. My shoes had the same amount of traction as a ski. It was precarious but not dangerous for about 100 feet.<br /><br /><div><u><span style="color:#0066cc;"></span></u><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rhf1Cw4ur3rwzJDGPA5juSakCu_dt7m9nh6QpSw3xLe4_CevMphPAAJS37QMksWGy2uMze-piIeaMmTpVvdfUR63dFYWfetQ_ly5fgUUJFrfcpxue7em5lbQj2czladXhpY1ESXb2zC-/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+043.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360616890209785298" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8rhf1Cw4ur3rwzJDGPA5juSakCu_dt7m9nh6QpSw3xLe4_CevMphPAAJS37QMksWGy2uMze-piIeaMmTpVvdfUR63dFYWfetQ_ly5fgUUJFrfcpxue7em5lbQj2czladXhpY1ESXb2zC-/s320/Forbidden_July09+043.JPG" border="0" /></a>This is the last view on the way out of the gully. While I was waiting for everybody to rappel, I enjoyed myself, even as I watched the sun drop like a stone.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQv1aguMCPiaVZDAYpEUL13RaJN30MjsYI7o4mpE_sA0mXjmg8zKRcM2TY22ryDYEaS0i-AAWMjBMLgeqZBnzQC_VP17m5yBouaEDab63xV7OBVmY0Zsv6evpZl5ZKk5DZLi0PAmzvC1M/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+044.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360616877516267106" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQv1aguMCPiaVZDAYpEUL13RaJN30MjsYI7o4mpE_sA0mXjmg8zKRcM2TY22ryDYEaS0i-AAWMjBMLgeqZBnzQC_VP17m5yBouaEDab63xV7OBVmY0Zsv6evpZl5ZKk5DZLi0PAmzvC1M/s320/Forbidden_July09+044.JPG" border="0" /></a> Before we got off the last dodgy section, Patrick and Bill left us in the dust as they both had mountaineering boots. They were able to stash them at the W ridge notch. I had to carry my footwear over the summit so I chose approach shoes, now I was paying the price.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkLUBuGBUo7B8OwPUcv1LmJ0aIjGPJYJqBJTFfAjmKwdjAt3-C-p5RvfbUVkeZ_xmY91DdvISCBSE0SRvbkfI11Z89HBHbhc_VraiGkqHWeCpAygbpk4Qc57qpDPkRMHh4PSqxqSzsw2Uz/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+047.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360616870998070754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkLUBuGBUo7B8OwPUcv1LmJ0aIjGPJYJqBJTFfAjmKwdjAt3-C-p5RvfbUVkeZ_xmY91DdvISCBSE0SRvbkfI11Z89HBHbhc_VraiGkqHWeCpAygbpk4Qc57qpDPkRMHh4PSqxqSzsw2Uz/s320/Forbidden_July09+047.JPG" border="0" /></a> Once we got to moderate terrain w/ a safe runout, we started hauling. The snow was too hard for a butt glissade but perfect for a standing glissade. We aren't the best climbers I know by any means. We aren't the sharpest knives in the drawer either. But, when it comes to getting down a mountain fast, nobody can boogie like us. We caught up w/ Bill and Patrick in minutes. We glissaded, ran, jumped and ran scree like madmen. We had a long way to go and we enjoyed every second of it. I don't condone robbing banks but I'm guessing we had the same feeling as John Dillinger when he realized he was going to get away w/ a bank robbery. I even jumped and clicked my heels a time or two. We just had to find the trail section of the approach hike before it was pitch black.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjySQff2zcnmvurc6r8EPPGLmSxSbLoYWvpeNaWzCRzIVObW4LZgAconz8-oXCmobjfI5NNxWVvkY1YFxKSO4wX7Xc6dyIdhdNZHgalCRt84YDyad2Aak5hzq0yOeTGtZaEQy03qGVg8vVC/s1600-h/Forbidden_July09+048.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360616868460016850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjySQff2zcnmvurc6r8EPPGLmSxSbLoYWvpeNaWzCRzIVObW4LZgAconz8-oXCmobjfI5NNxWVvkY1YFxKSO4wX7Xc6dyIdhdNZHgalCRt84YDyad2Aak5hzq0yOeTGtZaEQy03qGVg8vVC/s320/Forbidden_July09+048.JPG" border="0" /></a> One last major stream crossing and we were there. It got pitch black just as we entered the forest on the trail. I can't say that everything went according to plan but I can say that I felt safe and in control at all times. I can say that we improvised and made good decisions. As much as I love leading club climbs, it was certainly nice to cut loose and really push it for a day. </div><div></div><div>Five thousand feet of gain, almost a mile of rock climbing, a bunch of rappels, a bunch of stream crossings and two routes later we were pretty satisfied. There are climbers out there who can do what we did easily but this is my life and I say we rocked.<br /><br /></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4U65jB_eoYrrN6C6NHsU6kyYcBD9ctNgKkZb5B2HPXHLi_AZFh9RHWDj1OsCO93l4AQcWuTzz-z6Yalrt3M4o8bXIYgc4AhWvI2SI8y5hcjCpypnRQWm-wAq7a5pP8-6f50qptf2nRIUt/s1600-h/Matts+pics+525.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360616862702479490" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4U65jB_eoYrrN6C6NHsU6kyYcBD9ctNgKkZb5B2HPXHLi_AZFh9RHWDj1OsCO93l4AQcWuTzz-z6Yalrt3M4o8bXIYgc4AhWvI2SI8y5hcjCpypnRQWm-wAq7a5pP8-6f50qptf2nRIUt/s320/Matts+pics+525.JPG" border="0" /></a> You know when your packing your rock shoes and your cams and your ice axe, you're in for a good trip. I think the Joker said it best: "That which doesn't kill you .... only makes you weirder." We proved this when we sat in lawn chairs well past midnight in the parking lot eating summer sausage for two hours talking about whether or not we were going to climb Rainier tomorrow. We also reflected that a huge order of Meat Loaf isn't the best idea on the day before a climb. North Cascades Enthusiasts will be saddened to know that the Eatery is down to six rabbits. It was a hard winter but you know what they say about rabbits. Fortunely, Matt came down w/ a case of what he called "old mans Knee." (No offense to you old men w/ knees, not to mention any names, Steve Dougherty and Bill Saur) I'm glad he was hurt or I would have had to fake an injury. It was hard to believe that it was just that morning we ate our gas station Eclair's and started our journey. </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-72697345393041278032009-07-20T08:59:00.000-07:002009-07-20T11:02:14.089-07:00Smith/Lovers Leap/OzoneThis is less of a tale and more of a photo diary of a few of our cragging trips this summer. Because we've been weathered out of the mountains so regularly, we've actually gotten 6-10 rock trips in. Generally, our rock climbing suffers once the Alpine season rolls around; this year, we've actually improved our rock climbing.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD87Solp83s5O-sRryg1PjiT9BD_fMC2c9ygP-VrY1GzqkUfp-2nRYasG2BoEtoieBUOBPS0gOVvGaRhmZwL0xA3C31eB9w0OgqK59BOVOTzqVbiDW2_O6VPxNd_IpFOXrlwbvu0VrmkkO/s1600-h/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+003.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583991377514338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD87Solp83s5O-sRryg1PjiT9BD_fMC2c9ygP-VrY1GzqkUfp-2nRYasG2BoEtoieBUOBPS0gOVvGaRhmZwL0xA3C31eB9w0OgqK59BOVOTzqVbiDW2_O6VPxNd_IpFOXrlwbvu0VrmkkO/s320/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+003.JPG" border="0" /></a>Big John, Bearded Rick, Amy and I took a trip out to Smith. Our goal was to polish up our rock climbing, multi-pitch schemes and communication to prepare for a trip up N to Forbidden Peak. A trip that was rained out, but I can be very persistent and I'm going to find a way to get us up there.<br /><div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZAY0velThTSxhGWj8PDWGUDlDlFSkxg0-LnYLj7orOi61jAJC2OOasaxbSTRNUs_VOfvTm5T74rTtzqjUm76_g7zympIFQAw9-PYl0SmCBG3H5S9ZaTluD1gY9A3lJDKqmOtW7PktLZw/s1600-h/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+009.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583846157092386" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZAY0velThTSxhGWj8PDWGUDlDlFSkxg0-LnYLj7orOi61jAJC2OOasaxbSTRNUs_VOfvTm5T74rTtzqjUm76_g7zympIFQAw9-PYl0SmCBG3H5S9ZaTluD1gY9A3lJDKqmOtW7PktLZw/s320/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+009.JPG" border="0" /></a> We ran into Tim, Robyn and their son Tyler. They were also out for some fun and looking to improve their lead climbing skills. Amy and I joined the Chemeketans just a few years ago, now we can't get away from them!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_7WbFWQCZtp3ox3x8Mkylswp_W7olgqvF9DGSXZJtAk-n-_H58GU2qSiLnT7fnKfGAot-TAplmZaZ5OQgCQzab3iQ7bAbmooNrLJPnmt8G_TCjHMBlBu_YXgkMSWfzv6PlGDE33KUPwtZ/s1600-h/Smith_Petrie_June2009+021.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583843605333042" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_7WbFWQCZtp3ox3x8Mkylswp_W7olgqvF9DGSXZJtAk-n-_H58GU2qSiLnT7fnKfGAot-TAplmZaZ5OQgCQzab3iQ7bAbmooNrLJPnmt8G_TCjHMBlBu_YXgkMSWfzv6PlGDE33KUPwtZ/s320/Smith_Petrie_June2009+021.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here, Amy is looking very Ellenesque (Ellen Gradison). Amy has lead a couple of trad/sport mixed routes but this was her first full on trad lead. She did very well, maybe she's on her way to being a trad leader? A climb leader? Amy has followed a very logical progression in climbing. Gym to rock to mountain to sport leading to trad leading. Next stop Alpine leading!<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieH0MmM9hyPPmgU3RZ-PN11DhPJxji2us2w0ShZtNtgF3Z3MHOzyeUGvy8A-VNTKzI4r99nTFtGChEhJ8Ug0CUsjgebkW88tDx6zydfIYFp4Hch0V1gYmdj9XJgfruWOvjyRN6dRzC5wCR/s1600-h/Smith_Petrie_June2009+059.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583832756585170" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieH0MmM9hyPPmgU3RZ-PN11DhPJxji2us2w0ShZtNtgF3Z3MHOzyeUGvy8A-VNTKzI4r99nTFtGChEhJ8Ug0CUsjgebkW88tDx6zydfIYFp4Hch0V1gYmdj9XJgfruWOvjyRN6dRzC5wCR/s320/Smith_Petrie_June2009+059.JPG" border="0" /></a> I'm starting off on Into Thin Air, Rick is spotting me; maybe a little too enthusiastically? I looked down and saw those thumbs and new I couldn't fall.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHaaSDTu9DBmYfhkTrhjy-ktU58hulwECb85UB859vwNw2tK9e_doPqNmEAzEF2x6cN77QMcTgEf35LSh0vDQRwY8ECL8QQmdhUnLcovnqdmiC94822ifF6Buf2grH9XTKW-GF8LXkuzRU/s1600-h/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+012.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583828808918370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHaaSDTu9DBmYfhkTrhjy-ktU58hulwECb85UB859vwNw2tK9e_doPqNmEAzEF2x6cN77QMcTgEf35LSh0vDQRwY8ECL8QQmdhUnLcovnqdmiC94822ifF6Buf2grH9XTKW-GF8LXkuzRU/s320/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+012.JPG" border="0" /></a>After the roof, there's some great jamming and knobs to the top. This is a route that's easy to climb but hard to protect at the beginning. The good hand and foot holds aren't in line w/ the crack. You kind of have to place the gear blind and go by feel. After you're about 30' up, you can finally get something in bigger than a micro cam/micro nut. This is a very high quality route. Some say that the complete 3 pitch climb is the best 5.10 trad in the park. I haven't climbed the 3rd pitch but it's hard to imagine that it could compare to Zebra to Zion.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM16oC2L-x4loSpLtviowPk2yJrvJEgvAlsX3Gy9Df85UFNBFl9ufnMhcZOFVLyDaXjgb-s2gPo9jyNOeflZOC4-boaovcF6PlcO-XvwCO3kqH8mKD9obpGHeVCxPepUQHaInz50vmvxuY/s1600-h/Smith_Petrie_June2009+072.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583819644941666" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM16oC2L-x4loSpLtviowPk2yJrvJEgvAlsX3Gy9Df85UFNBFl9ufnMhcZOFVLyDaXjgb-s2gPo9jyNOeflZOC4-boaovcF6PlcO-XvwCO3kqH8mKD9obpGHeVCxPepUQHaInz50vmvxuY/s320/Smith_Petrie_June2009+072.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here, Tim pulls over the roof using footholds around the arrete. He trailed a rope so they could Top rope because we were on our way out. It was great to run into them so we could scheme the rest of our plans for the summer.<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_ClvVlOQP7IxYPVPO3x5MKCwTZIJa8lZcKDFxj54sEh92BRBh6A4edrGvNTD7wG3IAP7eWPNqk_nttMUK55c-j59Qc_dt8_5RM394cGSwHEWTVC0OfJvbxirRb99nxnLkDfuvZkxND2p/s1600-h/Smith_Petrie_June2009+058.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583254570467474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_ClvVlOQP7IxYPVPO3x5MKCwTZIJa8lZcKDFxj54sEh92BRBh6A4edrGvNTD7wG3IAP7eWPNqk_nttMUK55c-j59Qc_dt8_5RM394cGSwHEWTVC0OfJvbxirRb99nxnLkDfuvZkxND2p/s320/Smith_Petrie_June2009+058.JPG" border="0" /></a> I finally got a chance to meet there son Tyler. It was obvious to see that it wont be long before he was showing us how to climb. Darned whipper-snappers.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisSWsk07cyP-KtuH5ijnkzaY2MJxzq3rO1_rAyucL6hjPF4Lymmv1lkG3rEx02KVrVNhxhKyYGfKJ99mlKR02RdeFIIz1BNuDNS5NLWCUNSHlL-IrJAfeDBHCdUG7JBd1wPO2aM33MALhv/s1600-h/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+002.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583245515899874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisSWsk07cyP-KtuH5ijnkzaY2MJxzq3rO1_rAyucL6hjPF4Lymmv1lkG3rEx02KVrVNhxhKyYGfKJ99mlKR02RdeFIIz1BNuDNS5NLWCUNSHlL-IrJAfeDBHCdUG7JBd1wPO2aM33MALhv/s320/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+002.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here Rick leads up a pitch as I kindly haul his boots. This summer Rick has been doing a bit more rock than snow and I'm excited to have another Alpine partner w/ great stamina and experience.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BMZLGxfjEJkM8LnsYEgtB2Av3ehPQwQ14Z0BPdDRQPG3_frbEPL8XCjM4IA_ww9-LXOyS1br8Pyobhel-zABg-dXjci2y7TWpDvJApwnhyphenhyphenpWcMf7gmLsKQcBAtoeVmAjXcsDWlP5w6KK/s1600-h/Smith_Petrie_June2009+005.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583237770885266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6BMZLGxfjEJkM8LnsYEgtB2Av3ehPQwQ14Z0BPdDRQPG3_frbEPL8XCjM4IA_ww9-LXOyS1br8Pyobhel-zABg-dXjci2y7TWpDvJApwnhyphenhyphenpWcMf7gmLsKQcBAtoeVmAjXcsDWlP5w6KK/s320/Smith_Petrie_June2009+005.JPG" border="0" /></a> Spiderman, in my opinion, is the best 5.7 trad lead in the park. It has great rock and tons of variation in the moves. Laybacks, smears, jams, nubbins, even a couple of roofs to pull. Beware, its not a very easy 5.7 and I've seen a few 5.7 trad leaders have complete melt-downs at the crux roof.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-h1ZaYznaHVRnqYjN8XQMQg_RCbpDCurE60_ODuNMc4-pUXWXGLwhKc5-n0q57Mr1lD4mSNWMt4LVTqyZVv4dLndHXZoMRoAx7qgVEuRPYQd2-pH19aecz8hzcLJ2WnHrcivnuYu_V0_J/s1600-h/Smith_Petrie_June2009+044.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583228728584898" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-h1ZaYznaHVRnqYjN8XQMQg_RCbpDCurE60_ODuNMc4-pUXWXGLwhKc5-n0q57Mr1lD4mSNWMt4LVTqyZVv4dLndHXZoMRoAx7qgVEuRPYQd2-pH19aecz8hzcLJ2WnHrcivnuYu_V0_J/s320/Smith_Petrie_June2009+044.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here, Rick lays back on a 5.8 flake. It's one of those flakes that you start laybacking and its hard to step out of the layback so you have to march it up to the top. Since you're not seeing John in many of these pictures, you can probably guess these are his pics. He also did lots of climbing/leading and I think we all left there feeling like we had a great rock climbing weekend.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcP_iSOgZa_UiOPSPlnOc6HInDWWIaVUKlu2A5eDrSgb1YFqC-yrBgxas2Ant9EqxuQXve9zPjRNquQZiE9jSM6CqKzuKaQh8IdfD96GzIvR3FuVG80OVIaa9IT4pNfzat4MXxCakIlKq/s1600-h/Smith_Petrie_June2009+075.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360583219166262642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcP_iSOgZa_UiOPSPlnOc6HInDWWIaVUKlu2A5eDrSgb1YFqC-yrBgxas2Ant9EqxuQXve9zPjRNquQZiE9jSM6CqKzuKaQh8IdfD96GzIvR3FuVG80OVIaa9IT4pNfzat4MXxCakIlKq/s320/Smith_Petrie_June2009+075.JPG" border="0" /></a>When I came down from a route and found Rick sleeping on the ground, I figured my rock day was coming to a close. This was OK w/ me, if we hurried, Starbucks would still be open!<br /></div><div>Our best friends live in Carson City which happens to be in the heart of a rock climbers paradise. They think we come to visit them;-) We all headed out for a hike and to scout out the famous, Lovers Leap climbing area. We didn't do much climbing but we did enough to know we had to come back. The area was smaller but way better than I imagined. I'm already scheming to come back in the fall. All of the routes are multi-pitch trad routes. We climbed a route that was only given 3 stars out of 5. It would be a Super Classic at Smith. I can only imagine what the 5 star routes: Travelers Buttress, the Line , Bears Reach, etc, etc.would be like. </div><div>Amy says I have tunnel vision once something catches may attention. The route named, The Line, is the most beatiful route I've ever seen. It's a perfectly straight, plumb crack that splits the east face. It's unmistakable. I've climbed it in my sleep several times already, I can't wait to go back.<br /></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dB3iY5UDOknc8NFFAJKdT5ij20yhlictM50RegKKRhvwG4RmrDwF3iUxHaltIchP0o0QxZSNt9C6HPWWX4eVNEqet1APcfs1_DtMlQXCL82bLobLatVrA8eMEhVvZHsvHNQtzTsGmOlc/s1600-h/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+021.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360582573579362146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1dB3iY5UDOknc8NFFAJKdT5ij20yhlictM50RegKKRhvwG4RmrDwF3iUxHaltIchP0o0QxZSNt9C6HPWWX4eVNEqet1APcfs1_DtMlQXCL82bLobLatVrA8eMEhVvZHsvHNQtzTsGmOlc/s320/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+021.JPG" border="0" /></a>Above, Marcus follows me up a giant monolithic face w/ exfolliating granite. It was his first multi-pitch route and one of his first rock climbs. There was a finger tips crack that certainly got his attention. He calmed down and by the time we got to the top, we were still friends.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1h1_1R-XcDUIwIyRiSAlzXAaIlU55Ia8FRhBKcCSN_DOAnlayOGP437oaLxzHbdZmRL11hSQeLsD93QqGVZI5mBeXMHu1na_UauzNoQXxtOgt8wsSqhYCFfxKeIqTmc1WID-0w03K5_d/s1600-h/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+025.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360582564171750354" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC1h1_1R-XcDUIwIyRiSAlzXAaIlU55Ia8FRhBKcCSN_DOAnlayOGP437oaLxzHbdZmRL11hSQeLsD93QqGVZI5mBeXMHu1na_UauzNoQXxtOgt8wsSqhYCFfxKeIqTmc1WID-0w03K5_d/s320/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+025.JPG" border="0" /></a>Here, we summit on the Hogs Wild buttress. You can see the main East wall in the back. It's bigger than it looks w/ most route going from 4-6 pitches. I'm not a very good slab climber and I certainly met my match. There was a slab w/ zero hand holds and a 3/16 inch dike for feet. I had to traverse it. I had a small cam 10 feet below but it felt like 30 feet. Once you leave the crack, you can't reverse the moves. The Travers of no Reverse. I got half way out when I was possessed by the spirit of Elvis Presly. My foot was going like a sewing machine. I scolded it, I begged it and I made bargains w/ it and it finally stopped trembling. I always tell beginners to "trust your feet," it was time to put up are go for a giant skidder. I regrouped and as soon as I got across to a reasonable handhold, my climbers memory kicked in and I spoke to myself, "it wasn't that bad."<br /></div><div>Amy, new Chemeketan Andrew Trachsel and I made a trip to the Gorge to climb at Ozone. The area is packed w/ climbs in the 5.9-5.11 range. It's the only place I can go and climb 20 routes in my range without walking more than 60 yards. The approach is 5 minutes.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEniVY2oBRvtSo7HDBTi4PLHDWAk8Yo-FegL-daUXdUb4GK6zCVbqf2p8T9-UCKi3JtL1V1eufcXYStM_uF_y1mBBUOKaRH_O4ZemW6ik6rEM1uWM9Jw0BokdJT2Yl4oUalHTNsvb2dgP/s1600-h/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+033.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360582557029845474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNEniVY2oBRvtSo7HDBTi4PLHDWAk8Yo-FegL-daUXdUb4GK6zCVbqf2p8T9-UCKi3JtL1V1eufcXYStM_uF_y1mBBUOKaRH_O4ZemW6ik6rEM1uWM9Jw0BokdJT2Yl4oUalHTNsvb2dgP/s320/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+033.JPG" border="0" /></a> The area is a bit height dependent and most routes are a blend of gear and bolts. It definetly favors climbers w/ strong hands. Most of the routes are a full 100'. Definetly need a 60m rope. Above I place a cam on the Roach Factor. It's an awesome 10c pump fest. About 30' up you get your last rest. The last 70', you can almost here the pump clock ticking. In the last 70' there are a pair of bolts but the route takes gear well. Get along little doggie!<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXabKM5nUHzdv_1NKnMMWXkv2gEZOMX3wEAlnA3nNTFsdD1DpmHoy2qxQ1wfNkwuH71fruMTBWoasXBo0MrDQFdxMtVeRE7ubnA_s6t3gR83742bxIuhGWhFxLtq_5x7CAiATrS-6hqgZJ/s1600-h/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+049.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360582555807300626" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXabKM5nUHzdv_1NKnMMWXkv2gEZOMX3wEAlnA3nNTFsdD1DpmHoy2qxQ1wfNkwuH71fruMTBWoasXBo0MrDQFdxMtVeRE7ubnA_s6t3gR83742bxIuhGWhFxLtq_5x7CAiATrS-6hqgZJ/s320/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+049.JPG" border="0" /></a> Andrew follows up the Snake Face. It's the best 5.9 at the crag. (in my opinion) It has a bit of a runout but it takes a small cam that protects the move into the dihedral. Super fun and a bit steep.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGmBSlVVfyyMHNIXdjT-kxOwx-r1vFi2Ftt1bp9Q99l21xVbLMTwsbVRS9cKlZozAhyphenhyphenvRwff3rn15vopG9onFPmAjuwHxx8p-1tiOlz4v2WSKbYlP02OfLyA7_1bJS3jLJizQj0-B8f3lO/s1600-h/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+053.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360582543988988498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGmBSlVVfyyMHNIXdjT-kxOwx-r1vFi2Ftt1bp9Q99l21xVbLMTwsbVRS9cKlZozAhyphenhyphenvRwff3rn15vopG9onFPmAjuwHxx8p-1tiOlz4v2WSKbYlP02OfLyA7_1bJS3jLJizQj0-B8f3lO/s320/July+2009+(LL+and+Ozone)+053.JPG" border="0" /></a> Amy scopes out the crux before committing to the moves. She's really getting to be a real good climber these days. One of my favorite parts about the area, when you reach the anchors, you have a great view of the Gorge. The crag is only a couple hours from my house and well worth the drive. If you climb here, buy the guide from Climb Max. Proceeds from the book benefit the family of one of the developers who was diagnosed about year ago w/ Lou Gherigs. This isn't a good time to be cheap and borrow.</div><div></div><div>I hope you are enjoying your summer the way we have. Climb safely.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-41168890090869060732009-07-01T08:48:00.000-07:002009-07-10T12:10:25.233-07:00Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mBoKVi4ucoJKjyB3W7whct8I1gSmbvxo8a_zo3GQHacSLxR6Y_hqE_hzf8oUKT9B1M2AROCiM-O_Y5pTe6xXEW1kKnM_tFjN-tc_pNFJ1Dai3w14bIGQLzblk6qWGJX-eD3MX0ewrc_Z/s1600-h/2284812093_f29b57e293.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353521896692092178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 325px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 210px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3mBoKVi4ucoJKjyB3W7whct8I1gSmbvxo8a_zo3GQHacSLxR6Y_hqE_hzf8oUKT9B1M2AROCiM-O_Y5pTe6xXEW1kKnM_tFjN-tc_pNFJ1Dai3w14bIGQLzblk6qWGJX-eD3MX0ewrc_Z/s320/2284812093_f29b57e293.jpg" border="0" /></a>Mt Shuksan 9131' <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Photos from Steph Abegg's Trip Report</span><br /><br />Fisher Chimney's<br /><br /><br />Mt Shuksan is described by Fred Beckey as being the Crown Jewel of the Cascades...w/ no other rival for beauty. So far, I have to agree w/ him. The Fisher Chimney's is one of the more challenging route the Chemeketans do regularly. For climbers w/ tons of experience, it'll be simply beautiful, for newer climbers, it will be a full value experience.<br /><br /><br /><br />The Fisher Chimney's are notorious for epics and often leave experienced leaders wandering around wondering how it got so late? Apperently, the route finding is more difficult than the climbing. The primary difference between this route and most club climbs is the amount of attention that is required for the length of time. On summit day, everybody will have to remain alert from camp to the summit and back to camp.<br /><br /><br /><br />All that said, prepare to have a ton of fun.<br /><br /><br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353522140594416082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 213px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE2fhLAbSo6pOzW9ANwhXZdCKbHNCbCpQlI1T7bRSPWk2RVgB1Y4ZPeNtiM02YHEFNJkgXSx-GsKdh0je7YM5sQ9-cp0zFI8SkyUbCp1QI-uhSlL2E0XtY58V0_o8o0IWH1_94yOmq1MkK/s320/2284812065_083e97df91.jpg" border="0" />We'll begin our climb at the Lake Ann TH at Mt Baker Ski resort. (+/- 4400') We'll descend into the valley approximately 800' and climb again to Lake Ann. (4600') From the Lake, we'll continue through on a scree trail and gain the sloped shelf in the picture above. It'll be critical that we enter the correct "chimney," many route finding errors occur here.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGfD-fM5_ih3TnGD5jhLNFGZ2FSwAymDrZmytF2rpI9pigSZWH4BO2fQfhDD5dSN4Sv2ju3JRJKCMmx_Hl0w8AVBQFKkf_A7t73PLkhj8HF2YAgI500xz_BcGPCNcinAF6pAZRZUzAHp2/s1600-h/2285600476_d689b63e06.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353521893583046850" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 213px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFGfD-fM5_ih3TnGD5jhLNFGZ2FSwAymDrZmytF2rpI9pigSZWH4BO2fQfhDD5dSN4Sv2ju3JRJKCMmx_Hl0w8AVBQFKkf_A7t73PLkhj8HF2YAgI500xz_BcGPCNcinAF6pAZRZUzAHp2/s320/2285600476_d689b63e06.jpg" border="0" /></a> We'll scramble through the Chimney's, 3rd and 4th class. It'll be important to climb w/ your "three points of contact" as we'll be unroped. Everybody needs to be certain they're proficient at putting on and taking off their crampons. This should take 3 minutes or less. The crux of the Chimney's is an area called "Fat Mans Mysery" Apperently there's a traverse that is difficult for the larger fellow. We'll top out of the Chimney's near 6700'.<br /><br />From the Chimney's, we'll reach Winnie's slide, some people call this the crux of the route. We'll protect w/ screws/pickets. We head out NE and take on the steep slopes. We'll crest the Shuksan Arm, the W ridge of the mountain. (Another place where teams get lost on the decent, we'll wand this area and drop GPS points) At this point, we head directly toward the summit pinnacle. At the left edge of the glacier, we'll take a downward traverse past the hourglass to Hell's Highway; see photo below.<br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijgBCkEYjtkblu7JFJJkt5qDt5znPBQ3L1Nkt78PtxClBBngHjsZzZ0Hd6SwOj0IJCABfsNct3UWUCfKdPe2HbxAH628SVgDEmwvf7ecaGwT_Y0ExSfEq4cw53-c6-0vPcRJcXTVhI78pH/s1600-h/2285600342_a4ba99345c.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5353521883936644770" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 213px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijgBCkEYjtkblu7JFJJkt5qDt5znPBQ3L1Nkt78PtxClBBngHjsZzZ0Hd6SwOj0IJCABfsNct3UWUCfKdPe2HbxAH628SVgDEmwvf7ecaGwT_Y0ExSfEq4cw53-c6-0vPcRJcXTVhI78pH/s320/2285600342_a4ba99345c.jpg" border="0" /></a>We'll go up the steeps of Hell's Highway and gain the Sulphide Glacier. (7520') From here, we head N toward the summit pinnacle which will hopefully be snow free. We'll climb the central gully unroped, spotting each other at difficult sections. We'll descend the climbing route. This is a route where the summit is less than half way there. We take lots of care to stay on route and tread carefully.</div><div></div><div>WE MAY CAMP AT LAKE ANN OR AT THE FOOT OF WINNIES SLIDE, WE'LL SEE</div><div></div><div>Now the boring, important stuff.</div><div></div><div><a href="http://www.summitpost.org/route/155674/fisher-chimneys.html">Summit Post Route Description</a></div><div></div><div><a href="http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=48.83116462459668&lon=-121.60526275634765&site=sew&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en">Shuksan Weather</a></div><div></div><div>CLOTHING </div><div>Rain Gear, insulating layers, 2 pairs of socks and undies. Gloves and Hat. Less is more. WATCH FORECAST</div><div></div><div>CLIMBING GEAR</div><div>Crampons (no alluminum), boots, gaiters, harness, belay device, 3 locker, 4 non-lockers, prussiks, 1 4' sling each climber, personal pro, helmet and prussiks. We'll take 2 ice axes to avoid having to rappel winnies slide and hell's highway.<br /></div><div>CAMP GEAR</div><div>Tent or Bivy sack, sleeping bag for the forecast, sleeping pad hopefully not too cold, so we can go lighter. Emergency blanket for ground cloth, double as bivy gear on summit day. Water storage capacity for 3 liters. Stove w/ enough fuel to melt snow, water filter, 2 for the team is sufficient. Don't get carried away and bring anything you wont need.</div><div></div><div>TEAM GEAR</div><div>2 50m ropes, 3 radios, 4 pickets, GPS, SPOT locator, 3 ice screws, slings, rock pro, 2 shovels (dig camp spots), rap webbing.</div><div></div><div>DRIVING INSTRUCTIONS</div><div>Fisher Chimneys route: i5 N. Exit State Route 542 from Bellingham to the Mt. Baker ski area. Continue on gravel road about 1½ miles upward to the parking lot at Austin Pass, 4,700 ft (1,433 m). Hike trail #600 to Lake Ann.<br /></div><div>Each car will need a NW Forest Pass, bring em if you got them.</div><div></div><div>CARPOOL </div><div>If everybody packs tight, we can all head up in the Suburban w/ the roof box. If people bring the kitchen sink, they'll have to walk.</div><div></div><div>I'll attach the itenerary to an email so it'll be easy to print out and bring with you. </div><div><a style="BORDER-RIGHT: 0pt; BORDER-TOP: 0pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 1em; BORDER-LEFT: 0pt; MARGIN-RIGHT: 1em; BORDER-BOTTOM: 0pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3008/2284812093_f29b57e293.jpg?v=0" target="_blank"></a></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-39719835758351265542009-06-10T13:13:00.000-07:002009-06-11T10:10:39.965-07:00Mt Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier<div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidgaMzVI4tCMgpLgoq_pYexx1poz6zb0NaFyrYwXt5IU1O_MUImS5W3VlTvw3LaQoA-LD5naqugkQCWxRtKmM1LquTaigj280-PNYL44mUQzHVroYzZycGuytpy9k8RMRkDjE43xUfoCe/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0104.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345809263363728338" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjidgaMzVI4tCMgpLgoq_pYexx1poz6zb0NaFyrYwXt5IU1O_MUImS5W3VlTvw3LaQoA-LD5naqugkQCWxRtKmM1LquTaigj280-PNYL44mUQzHVroYzZycGuytpy9k8RMRkDjE43xUfoCe/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0104.JPG" border="0" /></a>We had plans to climb Shasta but the weathered turned to crap down in Cali. I told my team that we'd be cancelling and several asked for a Plan B. I scoured the NW for good weather. Surprisingly, the further North we went, the better the forecast. I proposed a few areas to a few people and we decided on Mt Shuksan. The participants were: me, Bryon Snapp (assistant), Amy (assistant), Mike McHugh, Joanna Picchi, John Coyier, Dan Sewell, Susie Callahan, Jade Ashcroft and Tim Donovan.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgALE9U_xGBZiz3ZJRThohUqolJ2uBnOe9TbydpyVMSsws_E3mjNPT6FzFFSYCNpw7KzpLtYd_nQqm1tuFEaNn7qEQYohTTU9Q59Vv4ebhP29mUExuEBuIxlbUsLedeJdNZycxgGxg0woU6/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0004.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808981270954514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgALE9U_xGBZiz3ZJRThohUqolJ2uBnOe9TbydpyVMSsws_E3mjNPT6FzFFSYCNpw7KzpLtYd_nQqm1tuFEaNn7qEQYohTTU9Q59Vv4ebhP29mUExuEBuIxlbUsLedeJdNZycxgGxg0woU6/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0004.JPG" border="0" /></a> The Sulphide Glacier is generally the dog route up the mountain. I proposed this route since we had a 10 person team. Virtually everybody from the Shasta climb decided to travel North. I expected less than half of the team to be onboard for the change of venue. I figured dividing the last bit of pizza at the Trail Head would be the Crux of the route. We were very early in the season for the route so I took some screws, pickets and some rock pro; "just in case." Remember the three hour tour on Giligans Island?<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkpMlmhofhthLOMt_B-3BdMDFR1su9Oo5NJmtwNLbG8Pw8HADTSMRBLnQjfzq1E-7j-pAMZa1QkMl6MgtTi8GUgLtO7NuTmj7jwiM7LDfgN5vqrHE6RhDuxz1PUTQbZkshUlU_MnErIiqK/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+081.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808974930318994" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkpMlmhofhthLOMt_B-3BdMDFR1su9Oo5NJmtwNLbG8Pw8HADTSMRBLnQjfzq1E-7j-pAMZa1QkMl6MgtTi8GUgLtO7NuTmj7jwiM7LDfgN5vqrHE6RhDuxz1PUTQbZkshUlU_MnErIiqK/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+081.JPG" border="0" /></a> We began hiking under clear skies. T-shirts all around. At 3000', the trail was 50% under snow. I hadn't talked to most of the people on the team since last climbing season and we all really enjoyed getting caught up on the approach hike.<br /></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMghClqbhI4xTEKDzfFAaUIUaHz6ycd-4R48XULcjCeujCKEELgYi5aNdPcF966UvexVVnYN9b1cswc4C-1XBz4G79bWtO395AS5hnsU45un-8ZqX26lLAtrMn2UJst1so5PqB1aOxgyNM/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+083.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808971106036674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMghClqbhI4xTEKDzfFAaUIUaHz6ycd-4R48XULcjCeujCKEELgYi5aNdPcF966UvexVVnYN9b1cswc4C-1XBz4G79bWtO395AS5hnsU45un-8ZqX26lLAtrMn2UJst1so5PqB1aOxgyNM/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+083.JPG" border="0" /></a>At 3,500 feet the trail was completely gone and out came the Map and Compass. Both Snappy Bryon and I had GPS waypoints but they stayed in the pack. There were enough terrain features to stay on route.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61nV5cNCHassH8LYbRA9MIk3vcyeGUGjcWEGwDJmz01ltD0TpphCX0gZMld0afN4kM10M_IS2V0p38CcJT6pjsBN9EiT8q7HFwJqU7Hi4mHHLpXeucac2wrVfysQeEXMnbYHBtDiV-Q_F/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+088.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808961505386978" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg61nV5cNCHassH8LYbRA9MIk3vcyeGUGjcWEGwDJmz01ltD0TpphCX0gZMld0afN4kM10M_IS2V0p38CcJT6pjsBN9EiT8q7HFwJqU7Hi4mHHLpXeucac2wrVfysQeEXMnbYHBtDiV-Q_F/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+088.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />At 4,600' we were in Alpine territory and we had our first real views. Everybody was ready for a break so we stopped and had our second lunch break of the day. Above, Dan gets his first real views of the North Cascades.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDOo5vgZ4yGxE9JXkLg1xpC4C8Ktfn5_N4Gv4F-FtAUJaqRU1T6yLbISRoF_6bONgi4NCQArz4LVExKicFa2gVpg7aNSe4AIAqxLcowtLXKcNybypFWWGXLk1e42JpmLDIwT3ZFJPoTZTB/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+091.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808955782588674" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDOo5vgZ4yGxE9JXkLg1xpC4C8Ktfn5_N4Gv4F-FtAUJaqRU1T6yLbISRoF_6bONgi4NCQArz4LVExKicFa2gVpg7aNSe4AIAqxLcowtLXKcNybypFWWGXLk1e42JpmLDIwT3ZFJPoTZTB/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+091.JPG" border="0" /></a> Above, Joanna Picchi (prounounced peekie) takes in the views. She was going strong, I think she's getting stronger every year dispite an injury. I was actually very impressed w/ the entire groups fitness so early in the season.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69EFQV1k0RKJRoR4mcXnw1AjkN4oO7w2SYuyiUZrjcDRWq8e2IxGzyroKnli6hGBs-7wtFjQ7RJcuGlRzg8m_w3vgkjc9X0W2b4Y2agLqb3LPlMjtySJg_2EhAV-kyuo_9r0VyjPKO0wl/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+093.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808360725621474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg69EFQV1k0RKJRoR4mcXnw1AjkN4oO7w2SYuyiUZrjcDRWq8e2IxGzyroKnli6hGBs-7wtFjQ7RJcuGlRzg8m_w3vgkjc9X0W2b4Y2agLqb3LPlMjtySJg_2EhAV-kyuo_9r0VyjPKO0wl/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+093.JPG" border="0" /></a> We passed through a col at 5,400' and began looking for campsites. I really wanted to get +/- 6,000' before camp but I didn't think it was overly important. I checked w/ the team and we decided we'd head up to a flat spot on the map at 6,200'. This proved to be critical for our summit day.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcFYndGKcY3_rHnbUrqSHS_WPW2kOOtKEHwVD3T131QLaTOD-ml_xi4iXv_33lWXtIfpeOFU_q5xqjLHV-g-h6h4Uiaki_QzB-lAtTPL6I-HUd8GmzqylX4Tdu2KyWkPXG110URiT5rTN/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0041.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808355195636002" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZcFYndGKcY3_rHnbUrqSHS_WPW2kOOtKEHwVD3T131QLaTOD-ml_xi4iXv_33lWXtIfpeOFU_q5xqjLHV-g-h6h4Uiaki_QzB-lAtTPL6I-HUd8GmzqylX4Tdu2KyWkPXG110URiT5rTN/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0041.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Sorry to bomboard you w/ so many shots of camp, but it's one of my favorite parts of climbing. We got to see our route. You can see summit pinnacle in the distance; the central gully was choked w/ snow. The central gully is a 4th class scramble to the summit. It would be a whole different animal in the snow, I tried to discern the best route. I wanted to approach the "fan" at the bottom of the pinnacle from the right. As I studied the summit, I tried to imagine how it would look when we're up close and personal. It looked pretty darn steep from here, especially in the small constriction of snow. When I crawled into the tent, little did I know, I wouldn't see the route again until 1200 noon the following day.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1ApT4JzjcchGD9hW1hNV-TIWvoP0YbYsgpAKD1tcCEdDhDKfvwxL1nje-73zT2ckhEpIbfDuewgA9vkRYRJS0fJyjf-i_Ot7dCVb5uTGgPEDWu_ZBDLkj9ardwWwbWOBp-poW6ShNumg/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0048.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808353254353474" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-1ApT4JzjcchGD9hW1hNV-TIWvoP0YbYsgpAKD1tcCEdDhDKfvwxL1nje-73zT2ckhEpIbfDuewgA9vkRYRJS0fJyjf-i_Ot7dCVb5uTGgPEDWu_ZBDLkj9ardwWwbWOBp-poW6ShNumg/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0048.JPG" border="0" /></a> Let me tell you about a word I learned. There's chivalrous, which I already knew and then there's Chival-less. John tried to talk Joanna into carrying the tent up to high camp!???? And then Dan made Susie carry all of the water to the summit! He insisted they drink his first? He says it was an accident but I don't know. The two Chival-less gents made up for their "shortcomings" on summit day and then some.<br /></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPJoE0JzGgVEf6oZhjdvaNhv1iVdEf_5bdDalcRxySJrOwdpU11VqxmCuMy2sIdjX-yYvSgON0DNYhyphenhyphen3Oi_PKWWZz3PpshyphenhyphenLEpdjlTP5gkBFPVEn70i2JrDoC4u1-cYQkMrjne5Ah_H3-S/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0113.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808341959289698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPJoE0JzGgVEf6oZhjdvaNhv1iVdEf_5bdDalcRxySJrOwdpU11VqxmCuMy2sIdjX-yYvSgON0DNYhyphenhyphen3Oi_PKWWZz3PpshyphenhyphenLEpdjlTP5gkBFPVEn70i2JrDoC4u1-cYQkMrjne5Ah_H3-S/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0113.JPG" border="0" /></a> Clouds moved in and out of camp. It was spectacular. It was also a sign of things to come.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Y08CvCtcoVTln15g6O3ei1pS4-xud8HNYwyG8hZOlxTXP9ys_wQSjesKVbjNuhRuMpPITLsf-SZbaIRbABIQibnsZaTFvDBHhT1Y0OrZ6cT1VHtSdYy9r3axO9kmD4YJ3vN0_LF1txfp/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+168.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345808336313779090" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Y08CvCtcoVTln15g6O3ei1pS4-xud8HNYwyG8hZOlxTXP9ys_wQSjesKVbjNuhRuMpPITLsf-SZbaIRbABIQibnsZaTFvDBHhT1Y0OrZ6cT1VHtSdYy9r3axO9kmD4YJ3vN0_LF1txfp/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+168.JPG" border="0" /></a>I prepared the rope and dished out rope assignments. I lead one rope and Bryon lead the other. There was another team prepping for a summit push the next day as well. They were a Mountain Madness guided team. I saw alot of brand new harnesses and ice axe's and fortunately negotiated for us to have the first shift on the mountain. We decided to head up at 430 am.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb7w__MEvXZaS__JgbLTvQ5Sb3OhVrvWG9Fp-Cm2RR4TW5zp2boBk042MLirL5lLv1NYU8D2Wk-3CGCdyc6XwV_zlJ_7mWZekohBWFMDqZpHwf9RtHJq_l5ZjubnRfGh2Ieiou269j0Hjn/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+105.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345807181751384562" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb7w__MEvXZaS__JgbLTvQ5Sb3OhVrvWG9Fp-Cm2RR4TW5zp2boBk042MLirL5lLv1NYU8D2Wk-3CGCdyc6XwV_zlJ_7mWZekohBWFMDqZpHwf9RtHJq_l5ZjubnRfGh2Ieiou269j0Hjn/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+105.JPG" border="0" /></a>Bryon was the lead assistant on this trip and he proved to be very, very valuable on this climb. If you have a tough route, Bryon's your assistant. It's easy to see him as a future leader for the club.<br /><div><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieS7yh2-bxL32oc9ABERP_8VK8DeanPQ-kUVSRZakbJYvMXssujmZ7SkWIbm1vd1CjW5E2N4rH08GQIUH9GfUo0oaNtskvt4WBXefVuxOvg64tOQvj4SHXRamzRInSQerSPySzfATTuINU/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+103.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345807173013316050" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieS7yh2-bxL32oc9ABERP_8VK8DeanPQ-kUVSRZakbJYvMXssujmZ7SkWIbm1vd1CjW5E2N4rH08GQIUH9GfUo0oaNtskvt4WBXefVuxOvg64tOQvj4SHXRamzRInSQerSPySzfATTuINU/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+103.JPG" border="0" /></a> The clouds started really rolling in and I grew a bit concerned about weather. The route hugs a long cliff band all the way to the summit. If you move too far West (left), you'll fall of the cliff and you'll know you've gone too far. If you move too far east, you'll be caught in the maze of the ice fall's. You just have to stay on the high edge of the glacier.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03dkSIR8U43LllQSlKHVgTioCDWHSGIwnQwqXvAlW4afm2N-BgrXXXqlhio2ZkmT0GEF7CyCP2d3ak_XbiAKpdHnXeSODEFFTUfL125CPUwTDd6-betQ6Yq00RMHtisJd9eD7arcDFyeh/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+097.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345807166270905586" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03dkSIR8U43LllQSlKHVgTioCDWHSGIwnQwqXvAlW4afm2N-BgrXXXqlhio2ZkmT0GEF7CyCP2d3ak_XbiAKpdHnXeSODEFFTUfL125CPUwTDd6-betQ6Yq00RMHtisJd9eD7arcDFyeh/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+097.JPG" border="0" /></a> Tim says good night and Jade offers us Peace. These two guys are great company and both excellent people to have along on a multi-day climb.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp48lLU7ztLYQmjiE_OHStNRXfuzS0hfJJhWFRypuSU4VNzjRZ6-r2AoZttN-pRTimzOoWDo5xdieu8nF4pZyBFCMjxEsnA_Lq1ZtwUWbWcc44-Lzyt4USB0bhqF-8e8UzOaSSGBqhRomd/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+095.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345807162953681330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp48lLU7ztLYQmjiE_OHStNRXfuzS0hfJJhWFRypuSU4VNzjRZ6-r2AoZttN-pRTimzOoWDo5xdieu8nF4pZyBFCMjxEsnA_Lq1ZtwUWbWcc44-Lzyt4USB0bhqF-8e8UzOaSSGBqhRomd/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+095.JPG" border="0" /></a> Poor Susie, I told her this was a great beginning climb, little did I know, we had a huge challenge ahead of us. Plus, she had to carry all Dan's crap which didn't make it any easier;-) OK, so maybe I'm a bit hard on Dan, I'm sure he accidently loaded her down w/ the team shovel for the summit. Wait a minute, was that me? It never occured that I too might be Chival-less. That same shovel hung up on every rock we had to climb the next day. I believe Susie is 5' tall, the shovel was half her height.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Kk61kIFRqOQQXDgi4pEzEOOIKnM7DXJbyV4cfIFCXYriz3JXlE5WN4UU-UuL84_ZhQRmnTtwm_gJL-Ecig5ksWe6Pirlscm-3QoCabOSDRL3GwhIqUmerZGYSlB0YfGCIdI_hzPXKZ-c/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+108.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345806532892631122" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Kk61kIFRqOQQXDgi4pEzEOOIKnM7DXJbyV4cfIFCXYriz3JXlE5WN4UU-UuL84_ZhQRmnTtwm_gJL-Ecig5ksWe6Pirlscm-3QoCabOSDRL3GwhIqUmerZGYSlB0YfGCIdI_hzPXKZ-c/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+108.JPG" border="0" /></a> We left camp in white out conditions. There was no wind or precip but we were in heavy clouds. I think half the team thought we were going the wrong way.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj91eieKDD2KjbmNEf8FoLekP-Ub_TadpV39_M3EG3AAstKnP74_yhR0a7y_Budj3cx0UgWY0q0_e132AtQuR5ic24IrA0rLvR5_oJhTwe-Ip9IeXzm_4P5LZpPdz9jyLJBB-NE35IvwKMW/s1600-h/h%5B1%5D.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345806526692379698" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj91eieKDD2KjbmNEf8FoLekP-Ub_TadpV39_M3EG3AAstKnP74_yhR0a7y_Budj3cx0UgWY0q0_e132AtQuR5ic24IrA0rLvR5_oJhTwe-Ip9IeXzm_4P5LZpPdz9jyLJBB-NE35IvwKMW/s320/h%5B1%5D.jpg" border="0" /></a>Every half hour or so, the sun would poke through and give us a small glimpse of where we were headed. This picture above was one of many magical shots I had to chose from.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqjngf7kCnCLu5IZveE3-vxLbrLwQeQ6xDS23vtftmfQGWq_A28HwS-YkWKNN7oZcxVSPp2NTPbX2nkaCkUy3m8APIWZ0h9FArkHdDbB1IcSIUIdnChcEWjWFuGLKmaUHrTI118x8idKwm/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+116.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345806522379572978" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqjngf7kCnCLu5IZveE3-vxLbrLwQeQ6xDS23vtftmfQGWq_A28HwS-YkWKNN7oZcxVSPp2NTPbX2nkaCkUy3m8APIWZ0h9FArkHdDbB1IcSIUIdnChcEWjWFuGLKmaUHrTI118x8idKwm/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+116.JPG" border="0" /></a>These fleeting moments of visibility gave me an opportunity to verify that we were on route. I'd say we had some type of visibility less than 5% of time on the way to the pinnacle.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2tbfvnC_ISj5NkjxI3-N9HmT50aQES5ZxBu7zJnSKZdE5v_det50rHI29NiospTnFMxKIviKjnMdPGLFbX0zyt3wFaZ9q-6nblpbX_0tdl5djiPC073GOFL1V0lMRsBK_467Wp2a9Nw9Y/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+111.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345806519205624370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2tbfvnC_ISj5NkjxI3-N9HmT50aQES5ZxBu7zJnSKZdE5v_det50rHI29NiospTnFMxKIviKjnMdPGLFbX0zyt3wFaZ9q-6nblpbX_0tdl5djiPC073GOFL1V0lMRsBK_467Wp2a9Nw9Y/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+111.JPG" border="0" /></a> These cliffs and features would just appear out of nowhere when a cloud passed through, they'd be gone in minutes. For reference, these rocks are the size of buildings.<br /></div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXNQeWj3Is5F-UirbI26JhS8eHk7-H9y8Xr52iixXNLhqEKrs-yvNlYVJVBRKnPj766nHJX5b-2VIbPnXrmkql8DYn0yAFcBqEpG_uq1KmIfum3cTBcGtawDRQEhtqaTpSH_gWBXZzlwU/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+114.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345806510079133410" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzXNQeWj3Is5F-UirbI26JhS8eHk7-H9y8Xr52iixXNLhqEKrs-yvNlYVJVBRKnPj766nHJX5b-2VIbPnXrmkql8DYn0yAFcBqEpG_uq1KmIfum3cTBcGtawDRQEhtqaTpSH_gWBXZzlwU/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+114.JPG" border="0" /></a>I kept telling the team that I thought we'd pop out above the clouds as we ascended, they weren't buying it. I'd been saying that since we left the park n ride in the rain.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eLTbHP8AHDGRKO-CC-shqxmpnDgi1mT6aAyO5SHFmP5dXsavXsTaaglh-HxJySkPRgE9Lf2TFNh1TQoYd11xUJAXfFSXH7scFb9J3fdBRJwqIxoG-19Zmu4fvnGgSV4QvD1wkJwfcC45/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+121.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345804530060945570" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1eLTbHP8AHDGRKO-CC-shqxmpnDgi1mT6aAyO5SHFmP5dXsavXsTaaglh-HxJySkPRgE9Lf2TFNh1TQoYd11xUJAXfFSXH7scFb9J3fdBRJwqIxoG-19Zmu4fvnGgSV4QvD1wkJwfcC45/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+121.JPG" border="0" /></a> The snow began to get steep and I knew we were on the upper slopes of the mountain. I was very disappointed w/ the weather. Summits don't mean much to me if I don't have fun along the way. I was afraid we were going to put forth all of this effort for a summit certificate. In my opinion, that's not even close to worth it. You go to the North Cascade for its beauty not to wander around in a white out.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_-Zg-Pb8pP1A7m3IEpTccue8_YjdzkmI0bWecWzN6rEk3bTLO9NliS2BXiB8m9o253Ac16cNwEQPRKUDGjaQ0KAEd2Jh_hXgwm7wJOUGimZ2jSM1NVOvfKlxODatitc-jUJxREC6EpOPN/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0058.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345804525829612770" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_-Zg-Pb8pP1A7m3IEpTccue8_YjdzkmI0bWecWzN6rEk3bTLO9NliS2BXiB8m9o253Ac16cNwEQPRKUDGjaQ0KAEd2Jh_hXgwm7wJOUGimZ2jSM1NVOvfKlxODatitc-jUJxREC6EpOPN/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0058.JPG" border="0" /></a> We reached the constriction in the gully and the snow sucked. I was gathering all of the snow I could to try and build steps. The snow was just too soft and wouldn't hold body weight. In addition, where the snow was shallow, you'd slip on the ice that crusted the rock below. The angle was somewhere around 60 degree. If we proceeded up the gully, one slip by anybody and we'd have wiped out both rope teams. I knew the rock would be more difficult but atleast we'd be able to get good protection in. I also knew this would gobble up hours but sometimes speed isn't safety.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KxX1TTmx4wt0Pq5WWqHaKYNFKeG2x8eyMhMp4zHhdSM1vssGQxMGI-rEZyRHhP9wBzWZwPOBaAZc_CdKhvXpNM7HZBbV-JI31I8qeOWfz4RRki8_LtqPXMudhnLY4Vz8vsZ91bQ7DwPk/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+122.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345804521741098242" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KxX1TTmx4wt0Pq5WWqHaKYNFKeG2x8eyMhMp4zHhdSM1vssGQxMGI-rEZyRHhP9wBzWZwPOBaAZc_CdKhvXpNM7HZBbV-JI31I8qeOWfz4RRki8_LtqPXMudhnLY4Vz8vsZ91bQ7DwPk/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+122.JPG" border="0" /></a> We belayed everybody onto the rock past the ice covered rocks that border the snow. Above Joanna patiently waits for me to find the best route. The mini-roof above was probably 5.5 in difficulty but you add wet, down sloping rock, a backpack and marginal rock and it felt rather difficult. We ended up fixing almost all of the pinnacle.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFOYregtV9XDnOIvt7wQRCr99UnE4mFcErJeGl3dXvbbtOGXZePiI3vuGMVVGnQAVMWJr7CBMZrwfa26mXeZG2jjhClE6WI-zD6mByBhK2WedDsFYO0lkHY9VNfxM7DGO5T0I2xERPBBS/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0061.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345804511030720322" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTFOYregtV9XDnOIvt7wQRCr99UnE4mFcErJeGl3dXvbbtOGXZePiI3vuGMVVGnQAVMWJr7CBMZrwfa26mXeZG2jjhClE6WI-zD6mByBhK2WedDsFYO0lkHY9VNfxM7DGO5T0I2xERPBBS/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0061.JPG" border="0" /></a>What would have been an easy 5.3 dihedral turned into a full-value mixed climb. Above, Jade gets ready to test his boots on the wet icy rock. Generally we fix lines and ropes "just in case." This trip I'm pretty certain every anchor was tested w/ several falls. </div><div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345801816217088258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis8FdXRnmig9R_m9tESIrZWwb0bvfrz5dn67YkM2pmMbAAb1Gi0PwMgecDFHV4q3q7lanSZ0IvNjvWrpT2Os1mObpMMUxP0wEfl7OVXcnbm5XUGoXxItWGZYhXIeaEmfh4N2Fc6tGyMtSO/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+125.JPG" border="0" />Susie only slept seven minutes the night before and here, she enjoy's a few more z's. We had no idea how close to the summit we were. I figured we were within 200' and I could only hope the terrain would ease up. Normally 200' is just around the corner, on this day, we had to scratch and claw for every yard.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkTJrV7FCVEeJV4kgCIijrH3I-gznC52FGxxZU5T7ahE0dJ-EmRoI9a33UDaGN_Vnlpw7-aoezxvLX_F0YOh4ataTgGIVxktBZMTK_u8vqwy21LZ4OmYmK0Hiyi-jt4J0TEMVZ5mN3gubl/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+129.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345804507631831826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkTJrV7FCVEeJV4kgCIijrH3I-gznC52FGxxZU5T7ahE0dJ-EmRoI9a33UDaGN_Vnlpw7-aoezxvLX_F0YOh4ataTgGIVxktBZMTK_u8vqwy21LZ4OmYmK0Hiyi-jt4J0TEMVZ5mN3gubl/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+129.JPG" border="0" /></a> Just as the weather came and went, so did our moods. You can see Susie lit up when she found out we were moments from the summit!<br /><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3wWuazUWL-afOp1HFyexN9EBKiPmdLrj7Ot1mGgvfVeEClzVhaJkczaf6xKbaIszoNHvrbZjsUcIoa93vcHOoz4cv_yq7lpsyMLVUksdedRiL8WTPvZKWHDyt5xlZQJKABw5-tvZIoY4/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0063.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345801811639781282" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQ3wWuazUWL-afOp1HFyexN9EBKiPmdLrj7Ot1mGgvfVeEClzVhaJkczaf6xKbaIszoNHvrbZjsUcIoa93vcHOoz4cv_yq7lpsyMLVUksdedRiL8WTPvZKWHDyt5xlZQJKABw5-tvZIoY4/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0063.JPG" border="0" /></a>Amy in th foreground about to bury her axe, you can see the slope angle in front of her was 60 degrees. I have to take this opportunity to thank John Coyier for punching in some of these last steps while I built the anchors. Everybody on the team contributed in big ways. This route, in these conditions was on the outside edge of what a 10 person team can accomplish. Had everybody not brought their A game, I would have turned us back long before. Joanna is preceding Amy accross the slope, I was able to carve out some ice and get a good nut placement in the rock Joanna is traversing. On the sky line at the end of the fixed line, you can see John Coyier guiding the way.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGvleC8LVNCfEPkBYV3hW1WhyphenhyphenVfPeG8fLw44JJM3TOx-rtxigDvD6gzsNxM4oe5wU0Q1M7GH51V_D1rrgrwFhsM2_RfiGUvln_KtYidpMNo2hswRxR2XeKcJPcFnTZuyQ7Bdt-nknuJmUS/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0076.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345801804692241266" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGvleC8LVNCfEPkBYV3hW1WhyphenhyphenVfPeG8fLw44JJM3TOx-rtxigDvD6gzsNxM4oe5wU0Q1M7GH51V_D1rrgrwFhsM2_RfiGUvln_KtYidpMNo2hswRxR2XeKcJPcFnTZuyQ7Bdt-nknuJmUS/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0076.JPG" border="0" /></a> Tim and Jade are on the final stretch before the summit. It took some Bill Saur- ish route finding, lots of team work, lots of personal responsibility from each member on the team and everybody's positive attitude, but we did it.<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345801792242163874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5SdU4PLqf18X1EjMypQ0J416ytO1o635vzQ4tjHtGdSHiLlyeO2zYfB1SBke3QWSu3N_avAsBJwpeqFZMzJfi3ovy6apVHKOAXiZrtVAE3uZjrTmTqZ5UHReydV9WAF-R8TMbthE8OqQR/s320/P6061077%5B1%5D.jpg" border="0" /> Who's your Daddy? Dan? Wait a minute, it almost looks like the clouds are thinning?</div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWkWFw-xG5o1FFYehb7QHXmZ3fkl9y4253vxmx4-KIFk0ypd3PWoMuOz_wAGPBrixepNDuYWSidhrAU4iTIa_Umku0zSG9OZlZllEuGnrpseba2JSB_XSTa-QGEOa4sOMHxub4jPO0TenM/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+136.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345801803004631874" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWkWFw-xG5o1FFYehb7QHXmZ3fkl9y4253vxmx4-KIFk0ypd3PWoMuOz_wAGPBrixepNDuYWSidhrAU4iTIa_Umku0zSG9OZlZllEuGnrpseba2JSB_XSTa-QGEOa4sOMHxub4jPO0TenM/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+136.JPG" border="0" /></a>You've got click the above picture to see some of the expressions on Mike and Joanna's face, its one of my favorite pics.<br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345812149471333826" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8id7jKjLzrzcjzse3ekbtW39Rs_jL3uwNB1QOT5I0qkijJBZ0vGF5kG8JYzLaaz8FTvIAqnLibuAFiIV95NjeoOTieJwxVAMSIyuN_04PyYSz2-grFi6fEnp8vmaKm-AH5lPx0Gb9pZxo/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0083.JPG" border="0" /> The team begins decending the route. Little did we know, we were about to get some very dramatic views. The mood was a bit anxious. We had alot of work to do. This route took every trick I had in my bag. Down climbing most of the stuff was simply out of the question for our team. We ended up setting up a few rappels. I've never had to leave gear behind on a route and hated to do it. It's not really the money, just the principal. I looked around at my friends and almost all of them were worth the safety of rappelling versus the danger of down climbing; so we left some gear.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqwHX2nQSZak-kB0ptxE5425KKT0aQwSdufCjXObdMzw6PvGxA0x4q11oTqbtIFfip_3Vl5TNEou-W_UwR0T8Asesq4wUVczoq4gaoHW-G40Nyi4EfQu6DstSdh-JOSLd8UBD7fYhpZeEw/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+140.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345800252316326306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqwHX2nQSZak-kB0ptxE5425KKT0aQwSdufCjXObdMzw6PvGxA0x4q11oTqbtIFfip_3Vl5TNEou-W_UwR0T8Asesq4wUVczoq4gaoHW-G40Nyi4EfQu6DstSdh-JOSLd8UBD7fYhpZeEw/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+140.JPG" border="0" /></a> </div><div>While the team was on the summit, I began prepping for our decent. This is one of the best pictures I have of myself. You can see the giant pyramid in the background about 1000 vertical feet below. Moments later, we were in full sun. Having the weather straighten out was such a Gift. We were given views of the Pickets (2010, any takers?) Baker, Ruth mtn, Icy peak and the many ridges that make Shuksan the most beautiful of our 18 peaks. In my opinion, its the most beautiful in the west. I don't know how you quantify that but its just how I feel.</div><div><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345800238933682642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPo9TJ7yW3uPoOIg-emLd36kfclg5Hf97yZBh8DM1o9loUaJtiTVoMQ4btntrjft-rsgfm2DVYQFXMyVWY3IuNqpBsrMZ3OOpiuPSeiaokS7dWdlbO9jIxDQ3gK-cq0Z8LQNT6RBI4j8EJ/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+149.JPG" border="0" /> Snappy Bryon and I can finally smile. I know I took a few minutes to decompress when we reached the safety of the 45 degree slopes. For me, seeing our team laugh and joke in the safety of what will be forever known as "Poop Rock," was the most rewarding moment of the climb. As I said earlier, summits don't mean a bunch to me but seeing my friends basque in the sun after a huge days work, that's what it's all about.<br /><br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJJ42iWe33uZtJNQ2AG5MpLtQoR1e8frHif3J2ZQB_8H89UlA1gNvFEc2-5-eXTSOyfgT3a47PXonOJ9D4SIXEEuJyjB12UyZzoYnTVRid1aXlF87vlGG8kgO6QjKZn5lkOfybLvOyryM/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+159.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345800247348839394" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCJJ42iWe33uZtJNQ2AG5MpLtQoR1e8frHif3J2ZQB_8H89UlA1gNvFEc2-5-eXTSOyfgT3a47PXonOJ9D4SIXEEuJyjB12UyZzoYnTVRid1aXlF87vlGG8kgO6QjKZn5lkOfybLvOyryM/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+159.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here's that same giant pyramid. We're now above the clouds and the views made everything worth it.<br /><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFekBeXwdFPWM6gobOS0HTeRyufMkBxqJ1_sk5GzabPN_5WXf4mWuI-HYG50QOJrvk3L7dNhjr9W1YvdXy9NJ6U7m9_1z64E_ZoHa0Gw684oaSydqu-HojqzQa0zpb6amI-NeB96Oi06Qd/s1600-h/Shuksan(6-6-09)0098.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345800236338338754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFekBeXwdFPWM6gobOS0HTeRyufMkBxqJ1_sk5GzabPN_5WXf4mWuI-HYG50QOJrvk3L7dNhjr9W1YvdXy9NJ6U7m9_1z64E_ZoHa0Gw684oaSydqu-HojqzQa0zpb6amI-NeB96Oi06Qd/s320/Shuksan(6-6-09)0098.JPG" border="0" /></a>The whole time we were on the summit pinnacle, we heard voices trailing us. During breaks in the clouds we could see a queue building but only one group of 5 made it up. Several rope teams turned back on the steeps of the snow constriction low on the pinnacle. We enjoyed time w/ this other group. I was a tiny bit bitter that they were able to use all of the steps that we kicked and were only able to find the summit pinnacle by following our boot path. They thanked us and I felt lots better about it. Our teams did a great job of staying out of each others way and not dropping stuff on each other.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGBx4GDeu_-unXzJj_lgtoJQ_Fi58xJKMEPkMZvehuhMotOyEO4Qujkcp37TcDiBqAmM8igUFngi4OiGiCeyySuUsjnZqiRLJeRaBeWyv246k-NZL3WV103te_60ygtTvK8BSN-V0XZmWS/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+165.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345798156990203314" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGBx4GDeu_-unXzJj_lgtoJQ_Fi58xJKMEPkMZvehuhMotOyEO4Qujkcp37TcDiBqAmM8igUFngi4OiGiCeyySuUsjnZqiRLJeRaBeWyv246k-NZL3WV103te_60ygtTvK8BSN-V0XZmWS/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+165.JPG" border="0" /></a>The team looks back at our accomplishment. Way to go guys!<br /><br /><div><div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNovcI07XE2VYInm7Xx2DWe3W32vZa5W5O-sfpZlHSziQAh2D98KkBGIRLCfiSRwbD9MwihdSWgRVgiwxPup-D0jlO68gwTBKWCxE9idgdtg34Hnt5sWRZU1vYpkTZq5K5tpszs3QOTIhb/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+171.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345798145207556162" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNovcI07XE2VYInm7Xx2DWe3W32vZa5W5O-sfpZlHSziQAh2D98KkBGIRLCfiSRwbD9MwihdSWgRVgiwxPup-D0jlO68gwTBKWCxE9idgdtg34Hnt5sWRZU1vYpkTZq5K5tpszs3QOTIhb/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+171.JPG" border="0" /></a> I don't generally like parking lot shots but this was one of the best cups of coffee I've ever had.<br /><br /><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345798139571352178" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis0wQtk6wgz_57uhRfh5HwNtG8ue4wG4BIO7rZYyltX8e-KormECmIXh4hrRU12g_seDOzJTgahs1bMJjGCxXMe4Gl0VPjRhDcspAMImLK2bP5Dfjj9EsU8LuthjZWF5QfuYc1O1d7zXUn/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+172.JPG" border="0" /> The Team</div><div></div><div>Tim Donovon is great company and unlike most of my friends in many ways. Very selfless, He's the antithesis of me.</div><div>Jade Ashcroft is an excellent climber, new to the club last year and I'm guessing he'll be pushing me as a rock climber in no time.</div><div>Mike McHugh is a great team guy, very quiet. My favorite thing about him is he'll climb anything, no matter how many times he's done it.</div><div>Joanna Picchi is very inspiring to me. She's always smiling and she's still out there getting it done.</div><div>John Coyier was instrumental in getting the team up and down the route. W/out him and Bryon, the burden would have been too much for me.</div><div>Susie Callahan and Dan Sewell are some of the nicest, most generous people I know. Susie was a trooper. I got her in way over her head but she kept fighting. Dan is battling Amy as the most encouraging person in the club.<br />Amy is the best. The rest is none of your guys' business.</div><div>Bryon helped tons cleaning anchors, fixed lines and helping watch over the flock. He also down climbed lots of the route to make sure the knot wouldn't get stuck after the rappels. This stuff saved hours.</div><div><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345813395297607186" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgESLa27Am2l6KtLzPmUWHxcpNIRzLb1H716XQGOAixLESmHMPS1CUVh_2godD161OV6aDDb_3z4fbo8IJjlo76k3dMrwLaLCxMtvpBe8T4Ti-_ZV_J-r9WvTKYXTA-KDpv78aGG-lPvpQS/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+107.JPG" border="0" /> </div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div><br /><br /><p>Thanks for sharing in our adventure. I apologize for being so wordy but there's a little bit of Keith Garlinghouse in everybody.</p><p>Oh yeah, it was my 18th peak. I didn't have any excitement about this because Robyn Smith wasn' there. When we climb this mountain again in July, then it'll mean alot to me.</p>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-86703628672327113082009-06-10T09:37:00.000-07:002009-06-10T15:30:53.287-07:00Memorial Day RoadtripMemorial day weekend sneaked up on us (I know "sneaked" sounds funny but it's proper grammer) and we still didn't have plans. Amy and I had spent the previous weekend in Cali and the weekend before that sampling Smith and Ozone rock routes. We were desperate for some rest. Instead we went on a four day road trip.<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5e1DTHyxpZPIavrFdQ944_eGTalJrT3o3P1QWGBW8nFWdFaNNssXbiEsCBblrIfAMLxJpM1K77aBFqQXgmcnnDqo9H586KsRj3ylhgiEkTFSk0vwuJ5sSVYLSOqCIh9dajNr2suBQMsR/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+071.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345747749529268034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5e1DTHyxpZPIavrFdQ944_eGTalJrT3o3P1QWGBW8nFWdFaNNssXbiEsCBblrIfAMLxJpM1K77aBFqQXgmcnnDqo9H586KsRj3ylhgiEkTFSk0vwuJ5sSVYLSOqCIh9dajNr2suBQMsR/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+071.JPG" border="0" /></a> It was a great trip for me (aren't they all?) because I got to climb w/ 2 of my top five climbing partners. We considered going w/ the Mazi advanced rock class over to the City of Rocks but w/out a bomber forecast, we weren't up for another 12 hour drive. We settled on Leavenworth but hit Frenchman's Coulee on the way, also known as Vantage.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkf0P2f6kuT5eEMr-xAtaagjmcuAYX-yzCc_-eiltHH7N8t-MA1CN-hcPI3jT3fjKO1BHojgJeZNfRDIqkta6WSC8WWom7e7z_OviieA9I2-cWlpAzlOe1x27pJ38tuphSpdOVuzZoZ7g/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+005.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345747744728949810" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUkf0P2f6kuT5eEMr-xAtaagjmcuAYX-yzCc_-eiltHH7N8t-MA1CN-hcPI3jT3fjKO1BHojgJeZNfRDIqkta6WSC8WWom7e7z_OviieA9I2-cWlpAzlOe1x27pJ38tuphSpdOVuzZoZ7g/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+005.JPG" border="0" /></a> Vantage has some fun climbing but its also the camground where all Gorge Amphitheater concert goers stay. We had plenty of company. We were woken from our slumbers to series of cheers and shouting contests well past 200 am. If it weren't for the ghouls, I mean girls, I would have partied my brains out. As it turned out, I had to be satisfied w/ rock climbing.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXrsGdpjy3Urk_KmHhjbSj5CZwJvpn4FOyXx61TgAS2_zgm0szTh-n0rP3TqUEa_4WRwq_mDLqIsZUx35UWYSTGJwe5OfznEbpFaoNZ77XAQ2kZzRsDHaNwGSdYBzcPcbSVGpL34Kudgeq/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+001.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345747742931987954" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXrsGdpjy3Urk_KmHhjbSj5CZwJvpn4FOyXx61TgAS2_zgm0szTh-n0rP3TqUEa_4WRwq_mDLqIsZUx35UWYSTGJwe5OfznEbpFaoNZ77XAQ2kZzRsDHaNwGSdYBzcPcbSVGpL34Kudgeq/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+001.JPG" border="0" /></a> We all took turns leading sport routes. On our 1st day we logged something like 10 routes. Above you can see Amy just past the bulge on Alter of Sacrifice. Vantage is also known for its strange route names. Many religiously themed, most sound as if they were named by middle school boys trying to sound cool. Oh yeah, I guess thats us, climbers stuck in adoloscence. "Party in my Pants" anyone?<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6_FuZA_WCKr29cgSZor2pKCpsa1y4rln0q_ZUOoN53TN04y_Qt9ic7aEMGA7qwZZfn9jynHZQcV2h8wfl4-7FpNih7FTVCCpCfweOre9aiZ1Tifj-p1KUkt_VaC6Jv0WB5tuV2IZ7N5M/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+003.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345746928072304194" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhb6_FuZA_WCKr29cgSZor2pKCpsa1y4rln0q_ZUOoN53TN04y_Qt9ic7aEMGA7qwZZfn9jynHZQcV2h8wfl4-7FpNih7FTVCCpCfweOre9aiZ1Tifj-p1KUkt_VaC6Jv0WB5tuV2IZ7N5M/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+003.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here the very pious Sue Nelson leads "Jesus Saves." One of the best things about vantage is there are about 30 sport routes all in the same acre that are all moderate. We lead everything that had 3 or more stars that was rated 10b or easier. It's a great place for new lead climbers as there are many routes rated 5.8 and under.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCgyXtEY5kN942NztK6t-AkpqTptmcLxHMyfcHmxElyrv9nionBWTqxunnuAoGNKpbnAgXkodqgXeWCqRRqCSTMk-aII4MjhOGhyphenhyphenn4C6T_QVQgeFxXkZH6aSUCdJh6qWVfOtKbGPgJcf9q/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+014.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345746929337400706" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCgyXtEY5kN942NztK6t-AkpqTptmcLxHMyfcHmxElyrv9nionBWTqxunnuAoGNKpbnAgXkodqgXeWCqRRqCSTMk-aII4MjhOGhyphenhyphenn4C6T_QVQgeFxXkZH6aSUCdJh6qWVfOtKbGPgJcf9q/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+014.JPG" border="0" /></a> Above I'm leading Blood Blister. It had a cruxy section low on the route and lots of power moves higher up. To the left of this was Satan's Wagon, the only 5 star route in the feathers. It's rated 10b and felt like a solid 10b. It's hard for me to give it 5 stars simply because the Feathers area has a bit of a trailer park feel. We rapped up by taking turns leading a small handful of 5.8's and 5.9's. There was a 5.9 arete route named Desert Shield that I thought was the best route in the Feathers. The Uprising was also a fun route w/ a Smithy feel in the middle, the first bolt is about 25 feet up which is weird since there are 50 foot routes w/9 bolts right next to it.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJi70lSGU_ggN4ETDe_Xhm0eGxzaUdAwtUPnFjvkZVxW19M5NJl0RRGOyO_xA1gFbVRo0JI_t7qf05Gcn-ca8ir-m0-4eG44CBlOg_Y79u3t6abQVZ8rYsPaXLCBUQkGxxmE6PUwyNLwGF/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+020.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345746927160267234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJi70lSGU_ggN4ETDe_Xhm0eGxzaUdAwtUPnFjvkZVxW19M5NJl0RRGOyO_xA1gFbVRo0JI_t7qf05Gcn-ca8ir-m0-4eG44CBlOg_Y79u3t6abQVZ8rYsPaXLCBUQkGxxmE6PUwyNLwGF/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+020.JPG" border="0" /></a> I couldn't resist showing this pic of Sue hangdogging. Mostly, I wanted to show the camp sites in the background. If you can zoom in enough, you'll see garbage and get the general junky feel of the area. This was in huge contrast to our next stop...<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHgExeyUJ1kE70cnfUck-43Hdk4LjZ_-Gtsk6qDp0Xqf0bRx4n3pX3NhZDAfdI_X9dtaCwwsNDMQiT32vUhCda1f6p3aFZmeAbDK8PKQUsk0mJb9rJJleQrBduP51kAAu8-NEil5Yz5G8m/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+026.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345746918724296466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHgExeyUJ1kE70cnfUck-43Hdk4LjZ_-Gtsk6qDp0Xqf0bRx4n3pX3NhZDAfdI_X9dtaCwwsNDMQiT32vUhCda1f6p3aFZmeAbDK8PKQUsk0mJb9rJJleQrBduP51kAAu8-NEil5Yz5G8m/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+026.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here Sue and Amy are racking up for our first Castle Rock adventure. (One of Leavenworths many climbing areas) You can see Amy created a small pack for the group water out of her top pouch and prussik sling. We had beatiful views of snow filled couloir's and rivers and streams. The setting was magnificent.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioI4JGDG7jcW4l27nSa2iZa_juJs9KeVsuoExdoVqLJH_UpwfvR2HQM5dewj9Uh1S2Ny81trRfp7UaVOVp1IttQETHipRU2NJDKZIr0eHVz-QgFgqdtdg5i6bf2czHQ190_Z6HYicWKaB2/s1600-h/114.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345746914865657970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioI4JGDG7jcW4l27nSa2iZa_juJs9KeVsuoExdoVqLJH_UpwfvR2HQM5dewj9Uh1S2Ny81trRfp7UaVOVp1IttQETHipRU2NJDKZIr0eHVz-QgFgqdtdg5i6bf2czHQ190_Z6HYicWKaB2/s320/114.JPG" border="0" /></a> We borrowed a guide book from Vincent which we appreciated but... The route discriptions were very vague and often the sketches were wrong and/or missing giant sections of the wall. Some buttress were shown in the wrong place. All of this added to some very exciting route finding. For example one 400' route w/ many variations and cracks was described like this: "Ground falls are very common on this route and should be avoided." That's all the description it offered. Ohhhhh, ground falls should be avoided, thanks for that nugget of wisdom. I like to complain but after a day of getting used to the rock and route finding, I come to love the added adventure of discerning routes while standing on nickle sized smears while hanging by my fingertips.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ZGnecPqsHeBSZwWf_LFJbzoX_q8EBGrozNxyUxp-ndaQCUgat5ZorW4Q1h9B4DOYSjGXe5c3WHbRNSseJvE52W0qpT_kFi8qWYKxP6MkbJ1LNgwZLDik7rloAS4OQMrh6mTcGLlvBFDV/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+028.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345745041575113730" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ZGnecPqsHeBSZwWf_LFJbzoX_q8EBGrozNxyUxp-ndaQCUgat5ZorW4Q1h9B4DOYSjGXe5c3WHbRNSseJvE52W0qpT_kFi8qWYKxP6MkbJ1LNgwZLDik7rloAS4OQMrh6mTcGLlvBFDV/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+028.JPG" border="0" /></a> At the parking lot we met a guy who was extremely helpful. He also warned that the grades were sandbagged by atleast 2 number grades, especially the Fred Beckey routes. I have to agree. The good thing about the Beckey routes was if you imagined being the first guy climbing the rock, the direction was natural. Above, Sue starts up the dihedral/chimney which wasn't excedingly difficult but certainly one of the most awkard sections of climbing I've ever done.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhItHcPJ4-rtmKS3ggHs02RXH10s_vwEzQBoBsYqQxKHyCCi7LEBOUWfvTHeJtjl1EZNtUKDlG5L3Bn5Jx9Hl3uo7rCBKc8J5K9cHukP8IJyp0SjhAtz6YFdbRFnsoa8546OUtHNz_5mfSp/s1600-h/101.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345745035899760130" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhItHcPJ4-rtmKS3ggHs02RXH10s_vwEzQBoBsYqQxKHyCCi7LEBOUWfvTHeJtjl1EZNtUKDlG5L3Bn5Jx9Hl3uo7rCBKc8J5K9cHukP8IJyp0SjhAtz6YFdbRFnsoa8546OUtHNz_5mfSp/s320/101.JPG" border="0" /></a>Since virtually all of the climbing is multi-pitch we had to climb as a threesome. It's really important to me not to hold up other climbers. Especially when you're climbing Classic-popular routes on a busy day. Whoever lead the pitch would then build a bomber anchor and the second and third climbers would climb in tandem off of the new Reverso, belay device. It's definetly my belay device of choice, but I don't like the old one, nothing wrong w/ it except that the moving parts tend to get razor sharp after wear.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLAn5t_4tsz8cI_ojzFsCz_I_PQEdq5ceacbs0N8Y9Y35h_Ycanz9m80xVnhlr4UEJFTEdqxLUMBi80U7nBpDZmO33U5v5nJzJ60LvFk_0u6kVyYmo_RZ5OaTAtFnWqsc4In_7iQiS8b2-/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+042.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345745029984826034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLAn5t_4tsz8cI_ojzFsCz_I_PQEdq5ceacbs0N8Y9Y35h_Ycanz9m80xVnhlr4UEJFTEdqxLUMBi80U7nBpDZmO33U5v5nJzJ60LvFk_0u6kVyYmo_RZ5OaTAtFnWqsc4In_7iQiS8b2-/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+042.JPG" border="0" /></a> Here I am trying to find my way. Again, nothing like trying to follow a route when there are 5 variations, all of which are complete w/ old rusty Pitons; some were trustworthy, others were quite scary and I hoped people could tell the difference. I was very impressed w/ the rock quality. In many sections the runouts were 40' but you didn't have to worry hold breaking off or gear pulling out of the bomber granite. At one particularly sketchy section, I imagined slipping of my hold and cartwheeling down the granite slab, waving to the girls as I sailed past them. For some reason, this made me laugh and helped me to relax. The line between baffoonery and climbing w/ confidence is a very fuzzy line; sometimes I fear I've crossed it.<br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkrKxxiC3j2HKvsh7UoxorN876kD2TCv2LmrB3A_s1MUcO5d-9Y0lYlkbmuSY7ZFNY_8eGoLNFs4xzvSLZga3doR9ER9qML8IbWGokvWm7HbMjEeGlk1ZhHCkeUR8srn5a22rBhejQREq/s1600-h/113.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345745028684991906" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHkrKxxiC3j2HKvsh7UoxorN876kD2TCv2LmrB3A_s1MUcO5d-9Y0lYlkbmuSY7ZFNY_8eGoLNFs4xzvSLZga3doR9ER9qML8IbWGokvWm7HbMjEeGlk1ZhHCkeUR8srn5a22rBhejQREq/s320/113.JPG" border="0" /></a> In true dirt bag fashion, we took our "baths" in the river. You kind of mentally apologized to the people across the river and 200' downstream. Sue said it best, "If they get out their binocular's, they get what they deserve." Speaking of dirtbag's, let me tell you about our "camping" arrangement. Being memorial day weekend, we called a head to reserve a campsite and were shot down time and time again. Hotel rooms were going for 4x the normal rate. We called a Hotel outside of town. The kind of rooms you where you're afraid get rented by the hour. The lady asked what we had in mind, I informed her that we wanted to camp but couldn't find a campground. She said if we paid cash, we "camp" in the yard between the hotel and the diner. $60 bucks later, we had our "urban bivy." It was also situated 50' from a weigh station that was complete w/ an outhouse. Can you say Deeeluxe?<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDFB0ARnFGndapg4_nMVfb81IrnM2SlMyzZwT_rutcDBKuyYd87c1s7IChZ76ai9G8qJi0mPPLuTHw50XYQPe0d8IBTFUttAliXLUMT7_SHatB64IqmcoCO-csRaP4Kg6Yn6nE3WSMfyS/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+073.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345745027808072258" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvDFB0ARnFGndapg4_nMVfb81IrnM2SlMyzZwT_rutcDBKuyYd87c1s7IChZ76ai9G8qJi0mPPLuTHw50XYQPe0d8IBTFUttAliXLUMT7_SHatB64IqmcoCO-csRaP4Kg6Yn6nE3WSMfyS/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+073.JPG" border="0" /></a>So if you look closely, you can see the Vacancy sign say YES. We opted for the yard. Surprisingly the lady gave a receipt and we felt that everything was kinda on the up and up. Sorta. A father and his sons walked from the Hotel and you can bet they had an object lesson in the diner. "Sons, if you don't go to college, you'll end up like those people sleeping in the parking lot." Oh well, we are what we are.<strong> </strong><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDzMwGxw1WLKzwrcb87DCoHEMzKU4IGJ9H9Z2xR4FXmIpps1G_uMWX4S37nnf01eRHRT83AkFrAKUQnKNcwwA2I04rWrpB862I21A7WqwQhn2HcRe9VErC8FX4wcI7yC5-pMX6aM2s9taF/s1600-h/103.JPG"><strong><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345741147369045714" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDzMwGxw1WLKzwrcb87DCoHEMzKU4IGJ9H9Z2xR4FXmIpps1G_uMWX4S37nnf01eRHRT83AkFrAKUQnKNcwwA2I04rWrpB862I21A7WqwQhn2HcRe9VErC8FX4wcI7yC5-pMX6aM2s9taF/s320/103.JPG" border="0" /></strong></a>Here, Amy cleans gear atop a tower. The scenery was breathtaking. Weather you believe in the big bang or Creation or something else, you have to admit, this is a beautiful planet.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2FouPj5BqB1uJNztSKKwM-Z2UhyRDjPSveN6yJFDs0ua5uqm2NBPw-rByLk877XscBH5IelTu4DmLYq5lhE9toypvGzIGv5ejghcGI4RshEApRUC5RdT3DLBi9qgQL8dTcpE2DJg_SkPy/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+067.JPG"><strong><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345741144021769154" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2FouPj5BqB1uJNztSKKwM-Z2UhyRDjPSveN6yJFDs0ua5uqm2NBPw-rByLk877XscBH5IelTu4DmLYq5lhE9toypvGzIGv5ejghcGI4RshEApRUC5RdT3DLBi9qgQL8dTcpE2DJg_SkPy/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+067.JPG" border="0" /></strong></a><strong> </strong>On our last day we headed up another multi-pitch. Here Sue leads the particularly slippery dihedral. You can see how polished it is by all of the white color. It's some type of quartz and lots of desperate pawing w/ chalk. The two lady's ahead of us appeared particularly anxious. We went and climbed a different 350' route, when we returned, they were still stuck on the 1st pitch. I climbed past them and gave as much encouragement / insruction as I could. We were stuck on a ledge waiting for them for about an hour and a half. Right when I felt high and mighty, I pulled a rookie mistake of my own. I forgot to put my radio back in my pocket and left it clipped a runner around my shoulder. From 40' up I was stemming and pulling over a small roof and it came unclipped. It bounced on the belay ledge and fell another 100'. Dropping rocks/gear is my biggest pet peave in climbing. I was grateful nobody was hurt and I'm still disappointed w/ myself. If you're in the market for radio's get a Cobra, amazingly enough, we found it on the ground and it works! Mine is the one w/ the dent.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbdRebd_JXbn3CohQggcFkVhJCw7dL3Hdumx-hN_TRQhW5I0CY1fS4ju9CT1LObYIkmZOJ_0SRVebaYsOKo4OX_mmbSHPiSuFocJCTcyrSAD1iiUVzcNoqs7RlvQ6Dfum2CUxamIsMMdG-/s1600-h/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+070.JPG"><strong><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345741143686562306" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbdRebd_JXbn3CohQggcFkVhJCw7dL3Hdumx-hN_TRQhW5I0CY1fS4ju9CT1LObYIkmZOJ_0SRVebaYsOKo4OX_mmbSHPiSuFocJCTcyrSAD1iiUVzcNoqs7RlvQ6Dfum2CUxamIsMMdG-/s320/Mt+Shuksan_June+2009_Sulphide+Glacier+070.JPG" border="0" /></strong></a>For a threesome, we climbed fast, we didn't hold anybody up all weekend. By the end of the trip, we had climbing as a trio down. Just a few weeks ago, Amy was afraid of doing exposed routes. Now she's an ole' pro.<br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhZ-f1aadIERPAJIh8aKAERD-k0I3-jNm0wTc8zr32bC-dd_LdQ_OlawaycsHciD_-FiloaKGwdr46ZeHpgDeYeMlnEjn3MBR2wm8KNnDIKUbtQ1xN2yriOWBgPoOCH1UTXquLCD16Fx6/s1600-h/105.JPG"><strong><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345741138880435602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVhZ-f1aadIERPAJIh8aKAERD-k0I3-jNm0wTc8zr32bC-dd_LdQ_OlawaycsHciD_-FiloaKGwdr46ZeHpgDeYeMlnEjn3MBR2wm8KNnDIKUbtQ1xN2yriOWBgPoOCH1UTXquLCD16Fx6/s320/105.JPG" border="0" /></strong></a>This top out felt like 5.10 w/ two ropes worth of weight and two ropes worth of drag. I was amazed when the girls walked up it. It was probably more like 5.5 but it was just another reminder that life is different on the sharp end.<strong><br /></strong><div>From this final belay, I lamented it would likely be awhile before I was back. I was also incredibly grateful for the opportunity to live life to the fullest and I'll likely never forget our Urban Bivy.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-22872170360793822802009-06-08T08:56:00.000-07:002010-06-30T21:15:30.365-07:00Mt Hubris - Cosmic Wall<div align="left"><span style="font-size:78%;"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ7siTJ88DdW1UBIR13QpgYXL4_LsMJnjXwlDylLBLdT4lSyUcfmpc37AwUJWs4pXJ88Kq9N8iE3LhFi4137k0pLemRRoazGU_JTE48SryvD-rgdnOrQQnSJ6ilHFtvzvERTN6lPmN7dJC/s1600-h/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+019.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345013389219830930" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ7siTJ88DdW1UBIR13QpgYXL4_LsMJnjXwlDylLBLdT4lSyUcfmpc37AwUJWs4pXJ88Kq9N8iE3LhFi4137k0pLemRRoazGU_JTE48SryvD-rgdnOrQQnSJ6ilHFtvzvERTN6lPmN7dJC/s320/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+019.JPG" border="0" /></a> <div align="center"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">The route climbs the left tower's left face, than traverses into the notch on the summit ridge, you then gain the knife ridge summit for some awesome exposure.</span><br /></div><div align="left">OK, so here's the question we're all asked; our answers are generally very pathetic. "Why do you climb?" I don't have the final answer, but I do have a small parts of it.</div><br />I generally enjoy my career, I meet lots of interesting people and I take pride in my work. Sometimes there are parts of it that I simply do not want to do. I can usually have somebody else do it for me; but not always. The week before this climb, I spent 20 hours over three days workin in the shop attic. We were reconfiguring trusses to move walls and I had to make sure it was right. I was up to my neck in insulation, yeah it was 90 degrees up there. By Thursday, the only thing that kept me going was the fact that Amy and I were going to be spending a couple days on California granite on the weekend. So why do I climb? Because it's one of the things that gives me what I need to get through the rough spots.<br /><br /><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1EZOi0VkLrb5Q2_tGvLA0RHZj8QSm19UpbXHwcVDImUIS1jRM7xClZxnnw2LQUKrsSo9Qok3RCJ-Q3qhFUZTFrt36ckUfZ4_2qXS2zAGZPGW-lic-JGK09PRTwwYsTpAxHEWLNDnQqNEB/s1600-h/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+010.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344994492674022146" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1EZOi0VkLrb5Q2_tGvLA0RHZj8QSm19UpbXHwcVDImUIS1jRM7xClZxnnw2LQUKrsSo9Qok3RCJ-Q3qhFUZTFrt36ckUfZ4_2qXS2zAGZPGW-lic-JGK09PRTwwYsTpAxHEWLNDnQqNEB/s320/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+010.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Our first views of the granite spires</span></div><br /><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;">This was going to be Amy's first real Alpine Rock climb. She was anxious but also eager to face the challenges of exposure and the added challenges of multi-pitch climbing w/ a pack.</span></div><div align="left"></div><br /><div align="left">The forecast was for temps in the 90's and I could foresee the biggest challenge would be the heat/dehydration. We took a gallon of water each and set out at 600 am. It was still dark so we navigated the easy trail by headlamp. It's a 1 hour and 45 minute hike w/ some brutal manzanita bashing. Not too far but far enough to keep the craggers away and more importantly, it gave it the Alpine feel that I love.</div><br /><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;">On the hike in, we enjoyed the landscape that is very different than what we're used to here in the NW. There was granite everywhere, it was overwhelming. I could show you a hundreds of pics but I prefer to just give you a taste, so that you have to come down and see for yourself. Possibly I'll lead a trip this fall if there's sufficient interest? </span></div><br /><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaf9nZuI0O6rVzlysdhUpkkBm0fAiQhS_-5NyxZEPKBeq7E9Ydq6c6hEilixmDBJ_okbtmCuyRWKQh6sV0TrsbJ3CHy1XqQBEhqOSC3RciYPshcxI-d5b7EJ-taFx9sGNZUlyh-Mckdakc/s1600-h/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+015.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344992237216424962" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaf9nZuI0O6rVzlysdhUpkkBm0fAiQhS_-5NyxZEPKBeq7E9Ydq6c6hEilixmDBJ_okbtmCuyRWKQh6sV0TrsbJ3CHy1XqQBEhqOSC3RciYPshcxI-d5b7EJ-taFx9sGNZUlyh-Mckdakc/s320/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+015.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Castle Dome, a hunk of granite w/ several long route from 5.8-5.10d</span></div><br /><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;">I climbed the route a couple years ago w/Chemeketans Vincent, John Coyier, Tom Klien and a couple other Mazi's. I was still super psyched to give it another go w/ Amy. My previous trip didn't diminish the awe I felt.</span></div><br /><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbVyD6B-mT6-MZ-lOP_ePq9eFv4mxSGP1foqtP_HpMY544Gez-6P_2UdAQDpjfNBLGspe-UVUVWTVywVlCnoedGwNqlTkg7fatN5683BjThB8vibZISm00pVU3Fzo7RLBDHvkmnVu-5y6/s1600-h/100.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344992230508009410" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqbVyD6B-mT6-MZ-lOP_ePq9eFv4mxSGP1foqtP_HpMY544Gez-6P_2UdAQDpjfNBLGspe-UVUVWTVywVlCnoedGwNqlTkg7fatN5683BjThB8vibZISm00pVU3Fzo7RLBDHvkmnVu-5y6/s320/100.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Amy in front of one of many granite pinnacles that would be crowed w/ climbers if it were here in the NW.</span></div><br /><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;">We were roped up and on belay at 8:30. The climbing is generally runout-friction climbing. I think I found one loose hold on the entire route. The climbing was quite a bit easier than I remembered and approach shoes were good enough for all but the fifth pitch. Even still I could have used my more comfortable sneakers but the pitch is 200' and sustained over the first 100'. </span></div><br /><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF7JRyc8n3SQ1zsQtJF7R6NatQ6NctTuYwzl4hfvcOseYA_Erbw6PD2xJ79r4ThU8tvM3bNWd86zeL7DdhLBxKoyEq88O1IRIIoGR6s9qNNW4RQDcCJn-M0EVFuFqWTE93KAxjSQoY-jzT/s1600-h/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+022.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344992231591572914" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF7JRyc8n3SQ1zsQtJF7R6NatQ6NctTuYwzl4hfvcOseYA_Erbw6PD2xJ79r4ThU8tvM3bNWd86zeL7DdhLBxKoyEq88O1IRIIoGR6s9qNNW4RQDcCJn-M0EVFuFqWTE93KAxjSQoY-jzT/s320/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+022.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">The 1st pitch enters a sweet dihedral</span></div><br /><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;">You enter the dihedral, sling a massive tree and head out onto the face for some runout slab climbing. This pitch would have been a rope stretcher had Scott Phillips not lent me his 70m rope. With the extra rope, I was able to get to a horn for a proper belay anchor as opposed to the "tree" belay that is really more of a shrub. </span></div><br /><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjnU4C09iQzV5s_rjjV9Rh4X5II9UTt16XZ8LeJFkb_aomvuVoNtjLjoaJ0QGI6CIskACAhn7GPxlzOMoKujOBoTkJWSAoK6eWE0jIUPsI-S83eo2hhEaCoe5Id2IZ4i5sBlCfCCzPmbEX/s1600-h/080.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344992227613454754" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjnU4C09iQzV5s_rjjV9Rh4X5II9UTt16XZ8LeJFkb_aomvuVoNtjLjoaJ0QGI6CIskACAhn7GPxlzOMoKujOBoTkJWSAoK6eWE0jIUPsI-S83eo2hhEaCoe5Id2IZ4i5sBlCfCCzPmbEX/s320/080.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Amy atop the 4th pitch</span></div><br /><div align="left">One of the cool things about this route is the varied climbing. The second pitch climbs what I'll call a "Giants Staircase." You climb a series of "steps" that are vertical and about 8' tall. The third pitch climbs granite fins that are great hand holds but don't take pro very well. You have to be real creative to get pro in on this pitch or comfortable w/ long runouts. The climbing was generally easy and I think I placed 4 peices for the 3rd and 4th pitches together. (+/- 230')</div><br /><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihisxQo2Qj8iyG-jizxcey7GsERHuRchqJcYoJnyhXiLFWnB_NxWauTdu4gp9E1omMRi22kE_6CHeNC_u_5_c4abMR36gwfgxQ_ZGYu0qpn-tVHaZERYDlCgnOsHYc7dW2QOj5cKdcruZ8/s1600-h/072.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344992223515362082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihisxQo2Qj8iyG-jizxcey7GsERHuRchqJcYoJnyhXiLFWnB_NxWauTdu4gp9E1omMRi22kE_6CHeNC_u_5_c4abMR36gwfgxQ_ZGYu0qpn-tVHaZERYDlCgnOsHYc7dW2QOj5cKdcruZ8/s320/072.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Amy peeks out, notice how small those 100' Pine trees look.</span></div><br /><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;"></span>The 5th pitch is the money pitch. You climb a series of solid, granite flakes. in the 1st pic of this posting, we are now traversing up and right to the notch in the summit ridge. I climbed in slo-mo to make sure I absorbed all the awesomeness of this spot. You never know what the future holds so I try to snag every bit of pleasure that I can. The pitch was over too soon.<br /></div><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvLduNidg26PBjDBIGHTmaLukuj0PvnQx3ycM27xUWu9dPaz6rD4XQpkbh8m5pUHLlLVebGFv6fk7wjL4LZONHFjhA-VgCRLFSFxv3nyPQygiFSJSZhMbCW9KS_yaHo-aFjczG6N7KuLy/s1600-h/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+062.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344989124063394370" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcvLduNidg26PBjDBIGHTmaLukuj0PvnQx3ycM27xUWu9dPaz6rD4XQpkbh8m5pUHLlLVebGFv6fk7wjL4LZONHFjhA-VgCRLFSFxv3nyPQygiFSJSZhMbCW9KS_yaHo-aFjczG6N7KuLy/s320/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+062.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">I gain the summit ridge. The exposure startled me a bit. If you look closely, you can see the belay anchor, a few slung small but bomber horns in the bottom right corner.</span></div><span style="color:#000000;"></span><div align="left"><br />As you move onto the ridge, you notice that the rights side drops right the heck off. You feel like a fly on the wall. I had to wonder if Amy was going to appreciate it the same way I did?<br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jIh2L8nZaVa6gTuwX-ybvfSZyzhdS-kTokY-KZ1-yGDSXx7Knye4Z9XAiJiiJ9gdy4DoYuGADcsoN6qbGPsXTZ1axn2gz7Bs96bapFm-eBfkgaQEmHrJ_R1hLzDkou4yfT14b0D6LkVT/s1600-h/088.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344989117175560786" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7jIh2L8nZaVa6gTuwX-ybvfSZyzhdS-kTokY-KZ1-yGDSXx7Knye4Z9XAiJiiJ9gdy4DoYuGADcsoN6qbGPsXTZ1axn2gz7Bs96bapFm-eBfkgaQEmHrJ_R1hLzDkou4yfT14b0D6LkVT/s320/088.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Amy wedged into a small butt notch. She was still going strong. Notice my pathetic "pro," the rope threaded around that small horn.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;">So why do we climb? Amy has been afraid of exposure. Over the last year, we've done several multi-pitch routes. Despite being an excellent climber, she would always have mini-meltdowns under the stress of exposure and she'd start climbing badly. With no pressure from me, she decided that she was ready to jump in w/ both feet. I didn't care if she every climbed another multi-pitch route or any route for that matter. I was just proud of her that she had the courage to face IT. Amy climbs because she doesn't want be afraid. In alot of ways, I wish I had her courage.</span><br /></div><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPMzCB05fVOsHUPSegQY6DmwEcMOvUhT4FArJgdCud0EKwNRloyT64cwSzvOYuvO_ZPgKGhh66g7-3_VJZrahHgcrfKXDIiBybN25WO1Duo6y9CFnvBwaHsJAlhZ4nGPysavV58X58QIs2/s1600-h/090.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344989114432902082" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPMzCB05fVOsHUPSegQY6DmwEcMOvUhT4FArJgdCud0EKwNRloyT64cwSzvOYuvO_ZPgKGhh66g7-3_VJZrahHgcrfKXDIiBybN25WO1Duo6y9CFnvBwaHsJAlhZ4nGPysavV58X58QIs2/s320/090.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Summit shot. What a warrior! Notice Shasta in the background.</span></div><div align="left">When we reached the top of the 5th pitch, we heard voices. We saw 6 climbers fighting through the Manzanita. It was now around 10:45. They hiked up in the heat and were looking at several hours exposed to the sun. I felt badly for them. By the time we rappelled off and hiked back to the base of the route, their last climber was still on the ground. They didn't have nearly enough water and I was concerned for them. The guy leading the pitches was placing gear every 10'. At that rate for a route of this length, they'd be rappelling in the dark. After three hours of climbing, they were starting the 2nd pitch. The entire route took us three and a half hours. I couldn't coax Amy into climbing Castle Dome via the easiest route. It was already pushing 90 degrees. By the time we got back to camp, I was very greatful that Amy's the boss. If I had my way, we'd still be on route sizzled like bacon. Around 400am I heard some comotion at camp and I first thought it was a bear. I figured there's nothing I can do if it is and went back to sleep. When we woke up, a tent mysteriously appeared near ours. Poor guys.<br /></div><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSuijI_u1BuUQfHU5cT8AujaQb94NTNT0A9lGf21o3s69e8VsS-otVEWxZM7NkXNxzCogQsN33GSGEpsZNQEMyEMehYHfokSbVs_N51mKtvFJycDP5je06hZ1sh01aXNLzn8EvfRTxTFmP/s1600-h/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+075.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5344989106900406546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSuijI_u1BuUQfHU5cT8AujaQb94NTNT0A9lGf21o3s69e8VsS-otVEWxZM7NkXNxzCogQsN33GSGEpsZNQEMyEMehYHfokSbVs_N51mKtvFJycDP5je06hZ1sh01aXNLzn8EvfRTxTFmP/s320/Cosmic+Wall_Amys+First_May+2009+075.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Lost in a see of granite.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;">I've got to say, I enjoyed climbing the route more w/ my wife than I did w/ Vincent and crew. (No offense guys, you just aren't my type)</span></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">Though we were alone most of the day, we felt that we were amongst friends. John Petrie and Glo had a crew of first time summitters on the nearby Shasta (Greg Phillips, Lynn Kropf, Travis Klaas) and further North, Steve Dougherty had a team on the summit of Mt Hood (Dan Sewell, Susie Callahan, John Ellis). So why do I climb? Because my friends do. </div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-3490824186159601892009-02-05T08:23:00.001-08:002009-02-18T07:21:18.989-08:00Mt Hood Jan 09 Hogsback +<span style="color:#990000;">Disclaimer: New climbers, this is not how climbs generally go. Climbing is normally lots of fun. Don't read this and decide you don't want to begin climbing. </span><br /><br />A recent trip up Mt Hood had me ready to cancel this trip. The conditions were good for climbing but very unprotectable. Not good for a club climb. In the following days, we received several feet of new snow, which had me thinking that conditions would be ideal.<br /><br />Our team ended up staying Saturday night at the Mazama Lodge. Its a good opportunity to get to know folks but also a chance to get some sleep and not have the long, grueling zombie drive in the morning.<br /><br />Scott Phillips and Mike Neimeyer joined the climb last minute. This proved fortunate for some other climbers we encountered. Amy, Dan Sewell, Susie Callahan, new chemeketan Joel Riger, "old" chemeketans Scott Phillips and Mike Neimeyer all started out a few minutes after 3 am. (When I say "old" chemeketans you know what I mean;-)<br /><br />Everytime I had seen Susie, she kept expressing how afraid she was that she wouldn't be in shape for the climb. She was even hoping it would get postponed another couple of weeks so she could get a few more sets of car lifting in. As expected, she lead the way to the top of the Palmer in just two hours. She trains w/ our very own Sue Nelson, they're doing something right.<br /><br />One of the things I love about climbing is that first couple of hours of mindless walking. Hearing the crunch of snow under a teams feet, you're kind of awake but it's also one of those out of body things.<br /><br />Everything was going well till we stopped at the Palmer to put on crampons. Between the wind and the cold, people we freezing up. Amy's hands were so cold, she could barely get her crampons on.<br /><br /><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdf-hpUgEAyrQrvnRZ4noJ3PRzATFo3mKux3xThmViUTIDnpN0mrsGQhA8B0Jbgsqo86LVCXrUCyhAi1agr0hbJviGCM-6T1M4VnSXH21gpTfRkzEWm19WJiw5pn9kmIU_uw2Q8xJf6Rhm/s1600-h/Sewells+cramponin"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299351397834842274" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdf-hpUgEAyrQrvnRZ4noJ3PRzATFo3mKux3xThmViUTIDnpN0mrsGQhA8B0Jbgsqo86LVCXrUCyhAi1agr0hbJviGCM-6T1M4VnSXH21gpTfRkzEWm19WJiw5pn9kmIU_uw2Q8xJf6Rhm/s320/Sewells+cramponin" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;"> Dan and Susie getting ready for the icy slopes above the Palmer</span></div><p><span style="color:#000000;">Above the Palmer, there wasn't any snow left. Early in the week, there was a wind storm w/ sustained winds of 50+ mph. I'm guessing it blew all the snow away. You couldn't just walk, one foot in front of the other, you were having to place each foot around what I'm going to call chicken heads. They looked like they were caused by the high winds and sun. Very tedious. </span></p><p>Mike Neimeyer, in search of his own glory, turned back somewhere near the triangle moraine. (I'll explain later) Above the moraine, the terrain got worse. We didn't see any more snow except for a little patch either side of the Hogsback ridge. The slope angle was pretty steep and very icy. The Sewell's got their first taste of exposed challenging terrain. I keep telling them its an aquired taste. </p><p>When we all arrived at the top of the Hogsback, it was looking pretty grim. We froze some more then roped up. As we were working our way up the Hogsback, there was a little patch of snow 3 feet to either side of the ridge. When I was walking on it, I noticed it wasn't bonding well to the ice beneath it and it was sloughing off. Between the unbonded snow, high winds, bone chilling cold, difficulty of the route ahead and the fact that I had already been surprised by the difficulty of just reaching the hogsback, I decided to put a stop to the misery. Sometimes, a few little things add up to turn you back and you're left wondering if you should have pressed on. This wasn't one of those times. There were alot of big things adding up. After all, climbing should be fun right? </p><p>It's important to remember that the mountains have teeth. No need for a new chapter of "Climbers trapped on Mt Hood" and of course, "Channel 2 was there." We had to do some belaying down the Hogsback because of its exposure and difficulty. Too soon, we were back dancing around the chickenheads. Click the picture to see what the upper mountain surfaces was like.</p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbRLjpRlWXZnTM7Yz6Q_muRZRx9emjNhPo6v7_ucPcXJzQROP0Dy87IWdokeEitN1ArG3B2cgAmLq6ACLHAH0j6yj0o7XGG6mGPi5HkrAp-jTjYL52XKLFvlChq0BwaRDbjYairK9R4FM-/s1600-h/mini+penitentes"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299351397109468466" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbRLjpRlWXZnTM7Yz6Q_muRZRx9emjNhPo6v7_ucPcXJzQROP0Dy87IWdokeEitN1ArG3B2cgAmLq6ACLHAH0j6yj0o7XGG6mGPi5HkrAp-jTjYL52XKLFvlChq0BwaRDbjYairK9R4FM-/s320/mini+penitentes" border="0" /></a> We've forgotten about Mike Neimeyer! Ok, let me back up just a bit. When we first reached the Hogsback, we encountered a pair of climbers. They had just decided to turn back, one had bonked. They headed down as we headed up. A minute after we decided to turn back, Scott got a call from Mike Neimeyer on the radio. Mike was back at the lodge hustling around looking for a news camera and he struck gold. One of the climbers who turned back slipped on the ice below Crater Rock. (Like I said, it was very steep) He was able to self arrest but dislocated his shoulder. Mike let us know that they were going to be sending a PMR team up. Mike worked w/ the Sherriff to let him know that we had a team on the mountain. They decided that they would wait till somebody from our team reached the injured climber to evaluate the situation. I stayed w/ the team, obviously, while Scott (WFR certified thank you very much) worked his way down to the injured climber. Scott helped them to get down to the lower mountain where the Cat could collect them. Mike communicated w/ the sherriff the condition of the climber and let him know that the climbers were going to get themselves down to the Cat. Everybody was glad Scott and Mike had radios.</p><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLHEtHtVq0EyGU0Pk8jB9Fn6d7CpU3DwyyjOi6r0jmy9HliKMfbNvM-be-aJ-4v1MflQHsM4NZim5hRLLJHbHHA0uY253S4KiPNS8DbBzpP_e_q7NdqicnVZEtrD0RI2LRpe-n2i9LyCiN/s1600-h/Scott+snowcat.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299351395372095602" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLHEtHtVq0EyGU0Pk8jB9Fn6d7CpU3DwyyjOi6r0jmy9HliKMfbNvM-be-aJ-4v1MflQHsM4NZim5hRLLJHbHHA0uY253S4KiPNS8DbBzpP_e_q7NdqicnVZEtrD0RI2LRpe-n2i9LyCiN/s320/Scott+snowcat.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;"> The Hero, Scott Phillips gets ready to board the Cat for a free ride down the mountain, if I'm not mistaken, I think I saw him stick his tongue out at us as they left.</span><br /><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;"></span></div><div align="center"></div><div align="center"><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;">So once again, Mike Neimeyer, Rescue Spokesmodel, saved the day. It was pretty cool to see how some basic logistics and Climber Camaraderie can keep the black hawks and news channels away. </span><br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmJH5w0V_FFptwaGjPFnLHG04G4VJmMpPJvAbcHrV0F1M_rFZVR2C8iJuW1-KWxg9GcXAkVVupHVsf7gJ7dFFLE4QMw-2iGPOB7U9ccm2SKi5v_J9HdfXFCU1TesAfvDyXYwrWNDWKoZdd/s1600-h/rescuers"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299351044050858034" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmJH5w0V_FFptwaGjPFnLHG04G4VJmMpPJvAbcHrV0F1M_rFZVR2C8iJuW1-KWxg9GcXAkVVupHVsf7gJ7dFFLE4QMw-2iGPOB7U9ccm2SKi5v_J9HdfXFCU1TesAfvDyXYwrWNDWKoZdd/s320/rescuers" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">This is what heroes look like</span><br /><br /><div align="left"><span style="color:#000000;">The next morning, Mike received a call thanking him and Scott for helping. It was pretty darned cool.</span></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left"></div><div align="left">We continued down the mountain slowly but surely. By the time we got to the Palmer, our hands and feet finally thawed out. </div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2C3t1PscOoU7m5Mqt0s-gOsUvf7kIyn_9bM31dNNTZbIy7BiuJmR75FvnA_s27efxM7uI1gTWUh-DuoAA-ILjm375fob5Qns2GFayBmKGDmSChg8is_JIjJVv0qBpjyNDqL0w3qv-oWZg/s1600-h/Hood+Jan+09+018.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299351042000531314" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2C3t1PscOoU7m5Mqt0s-gOsUvf7kIyn_9bM31dNNTZbIy7BiuJmR75FvnA_s27efxM7uI1gTWUh-DuoAA-ILjm375fob5Qns2GFayBmKGDmSChg8is_JIjJVv0qBpjyNDqL0w3qv-oWZg/s320/Hood+Jan+09+018.JPG" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;"> Joel, he looks so casual but he's actually frozen to a statue</span><br /><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;"></span></div><div align="center"></div><div align="left">At the bottom, alot of things had changed. People were smiling again, nobody was wearing 3 jackets. Dan had said that when he was at the top, he was ready to stick to Smith Rock. Now that he was at the bottom, moments from a cheeseburger, he was asking if we were going to schedule a rematch. Climbers memory.</div><p align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3fA_zChQujxzYuLZb4z8Exg1NU5QPUH6BbCAeWsFNFv9t63I9X6PY8B9GeOCQisIyMHOgfQhMuCt0QfkzRtjWrWWE304oC_zxUJIA0iwn_n39x8559eA2IBExasI7LXUjIDumGAwrAGjS/s1600-h/Hood+Jan+09+019.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299351042498528914" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3fA_zChQujxzYuLZb4z8Exg1NU5QPUH6BbCAeWsFNFv9t63I9X6PY8B9GeOCQisIyMHOgfQhMuCt0QfkzRtjWrWWE304oC_zxUJIA0iwn_n39x8559eA2IBExasI7LXUjIDumGAwrAGjS/s320/Hood+Jan+09+019.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">More ice formations to zig zag through</span><br /></p><p>For me, climbing is always fun, even when its not. If this makes sense to you, seek help. I feel like the two most important parts of climbing are to first be safe; second, have fun. At the end of the day, I think we all were safe, we had some fun and we all learned something about ourselves. I say it was another good safe day in the mountains. Had we pressed on, I can see several situations that could have played out. Perhaps we would have been forced to turn back further ahead because of difficulty of terrain. Possibly the high winds could have knocked some of that exposed ice down and clobbered us, or hung up in our rope and pulled us down. Maybe we would have gotten safely up and down but having to work the gear in would have been tough and time consuming; we'd have gotten colder by the second. I thank the team for understanding the decision to turn back. No arguments, no complaints. I didn't want the situation to get hairy. You can't always make it to the top, but you can always make it to the bottom.<br /></p><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUT4hrPzz-qKO_xEBjG8CQ9-r5E4TfcbsHUPF2IHwYrKaUgIciMa69AXAFgYBvpBqc3b3jUWr1iZRXoGhG42m9btiKBp6KKkSj1TIpA3KDowDioA_W_evW7Fla3Ibx-tJZ0VfGaAwhr09x/s1600-h/Hood+Jan+09+023.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299351035417558498" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUT4hrPzz-qKO_xEBjG8CQ9-r5E4TfcbsHUPF2IHwYrKaUgIciMa69AXAFgYBvpBqc3b3jUWr1iZRXoGhG42m9btiKBp6KKkSj1TIpA3KDowDioA_W_evW7Fla3Ibx-tJZ0VfGaAwhr09x/s320/Hood+Jan+09+023.JPG" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Just moments from coffee and burgers</span> </div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7102952787840471196.post-29856416093349217172009-02-05T07:57:00.000-08:002009-02-07T14:27:48.522-08:00West Crater Rim-Mt Hood Jan 09This was a Solo climb of the W. Crater Rim. I've wanted to climb this route for awhile, but its AVY prone so stable snow is key. The "snow" was as stable as concrete. The route description calls it +/- 50 degree snow, mostly less than 45 degrees. Well that's not what I found. There was no snow, all ice and it was steady at 60 degrees w/ bulge that was closer to 65 degrees. You could have possibly found some lower angle snow in the gully between Crater Rock and the W. Crater walls, but that was no mans land. There were rocks peppered in that area and I didn't like the idea of walking through there.<br /><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnBYv_QgMMgnuhfrQYFCDhw_X4wk1a1eypP9wNe5NP2D_y8BSSOSVKyLwBPIkavdlOqAmFYr5SldZ_HD7x1ozujEyMxOZ5bBGK82l4vWtBcCaBjNiSBQthi1EQo5VOZzQ22Nk7c93GWBhK/s1600-h/IMG_0063.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299349327695447234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnBYv_QgMMgnuhfrQYFCDhw_X4wk1a1eypP9wNe5NP2D_y8BSSOSVKyLwBPIkavdlOqAmFYr5SldZ_HD7x1ozujEyMxOZ5bBGK82l4vWtBcCaBjNiSBQthi1EQo5VOZzQ22Nk7c93GWBhK/s320/IMG_0063.jpg" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Summit, looking East</span><br /></div><div align="left">This was one of the more introspective climbs I've had. With all of the recent accidents, I noticed a little bit of anxiety in Amy when I told her I was headed up in the morning. Normally, she doesn't worry. I promised her I'd be extra safe, whatever that means. I think it means I'll be more conservative in my decisions but I still don't know. Alot of people think that climbing by yourself is unsafe so in their eyes, by setting foot on the mountain I was being dangerous. Hmm...<br /></div><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh89-uiKmcPDFbFm1vGbTXzVDLTOj9eAfXGE34li28-cxzS0rg4uc0fDN3V6DB4YBELuajGUFnIcgngluY68wdQkyyGe7HqeQ_I2XuoCAsLsBxU82EtrJVHkaW1bFL9GvOC4IIBJSZutSTY/s1600-h/IMG_0065.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299349319612301938" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh89-uiKmcPDFbFm1vGbTXzVDLTOj9eAfXGE34li28-cxzS0rg4uc0fDN3V6DB4YBELuajGUFnIcgngluY68wdQkyyGe7HqeQ_I2XuoCAsLsBxU82EtrJVHkaW1bFL9GvOC4IIBJSZutSTY/s320/IMG_0065.jpg" border="0" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">View down the N face, excuse the ice tool but it was hanging from my wrist when I took the pic, its the only shot I have down the N side</span><br /></div><div align="left">The recent death of the woman who was struck by ice shook me up a bit. Last year, I was climbing one of the gullies between the Mazama Route and the Pearly Gates. The climbing was more difficult than I anticipated, therefore, it took me longer than I was planning. As the sun hit the snow, it started to sluff off. I noticed a bit of snow balling so I decided it was time to turn back. When I got to the Hogsback, I was relieved to be off of the AVY terrain. Below the triangle moraine, I talked to a girl who was still going up, I told her I turned back because of AVY danger. She continued up. From the Palmer, I could see her working her way up the steeps to the summit ridge. I didn't see her in the paper the next morning so I figured all went well. Maybe I should have kept going? A couple weeks later, I ran into her and her husband while I was on the way down. (near the top of the Palmer) They were still headed up. I hoped her lateness wouldn't catch up w/ them. Eventually it did. As Vincent noted earlier, sometimes the difference between prudence and wrecklessness isn't an attitude, its a couple of hours. I'm sure she'd want us to learn from her mistake. If its going to be warm, be early.<br /></div><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyKeknYmuA4i6iZcm7neYmut2gDsb1NhrNguV_HP10dAuo57CBDg5LT6_6u2cHzWoe_D0VN7vMiosswATzzaacTOD9dfeMcczcLkD5ECwo-4eJaKSYTdWAIZOg9S9a0smBsMc-snopuWH6/s1600-h/IMG_0067.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299348798563159762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyKeknYmuA4i6iZcm7neYmut2gDsb1NhrNguV_HP10dAuo57CBDg5LT6_6u2cHzWoe_D0VN7vMiosswATzzaacTOD9dfeMcczcLkD5ECwo-4eJaKSYTdWAIZOg9S9a0smBsMc-snopuWH6/s320/IMG_0067.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;"> View South w/ crater rock left of center</span><br /></div><div align="left">When I reached Crater rock, it was real icy but I didn't hear any ice falling. It was still real dark and there was no moon, as matter of fact I felt like I was on the moon. I began working my way up and right along the Crater Wall. It was definite 2 tool terrain. The ice was unlike any I'd ever seen. It looked like the scales of a fish. Scalloped/Serrated. It offered great purchase for crampons and ice tools. I reached a bench of lower angled stuff about a third of the way up. I took a break and waited for a bit of sun light. It was still pitch black and I wanted to have a better idea of where I was headed. I was an hour earlier than I'd planned. After a few minutes, I could see well enough. I started out onto the upper crater wall. After about 30 feet, my right boot began to loosen. Because of the steepness of the terrain, there was nothing I could do. Atleast there was only another 700' of front pointing! As the sun brought a little more light, the feeling of being on the Moon slipped away w/ the darkness. With the light, I could see that I was securely (sort of) grounded here on our very beatiful, Mt Hood.<br /></div><div align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0bBfbZ4ixqDesk2pwVVOwagRUR1t4EEIxcPt6LPdFijw2uIyHLWpT3MW2aSz2LgDBfpCERBO-ScgcfyLflDXfaMqaH4F1dXJ4t8JRGVBsqVA_nZm8hH6gw_JpsJ80Zut8Ywu2tYYCiQXc/s1600-h/IMG_0069.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299348797938132866" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0bBfbZ4ixqDesk2pwVVOwagRUR1t4EEIxcPt6LPdFijw2uIyHLWpT3MW2aSz2LgDBfpCERBO-ScgcfyLflDXfaMqaH4F1dXJ4t8JRGVBsqVA_nZm8hH6gw_JpsJ80Zut8Ywu2tYYCiQXc/s320/IMG_0069.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />I walked across the summit ridge. Somehow it felt wider than usual but I suspect I'm just getting stupider. (is that a word?) When you start down climbing, face in, you always wonder how you got up this thing anyway. When I was back at the Hogsback, I looked at the Devil's Kitchen Headwall and considered heading up it. It was still pretty early after all. For some reason, I flashed back to the night before when I told Amy I'd be safe. It didn't feel unsafe to start up a new route but somehow, it just felt like the wrong thing to do. Besides, that loose boot gave me a blister that I'm still dealing w/ 2 weeks later.<br /><p align="left"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJACQX0nLysg5LPYLkZs65dMRQTdpJtCN1WT98DS9YwItGGaP9Jwclmrk5jR8SsmdUUQyqidMNkFUOU0UFoRbwUwLhSUg94io3HP2-q4ScbXq3VLWN0AW89bKJYVYyHq5lEL5EgOztbBVO/s1600-h/IMG_0071.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299348794898025330" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJACQX0nLysg5LPYLkZs65dMRQTdpJtCN1WT98DS9YwItGGaP9Jwclmrk5jR8SsmdUUQyqidMNkFUOU0UFoRbwUwLhSUg94io3HP2-q4ScbXq3VLWN0AW89bKJYVYyHq5lEL5EgOztbBVO/s320/IMG_0071.jpg" border="0" /></a></p><div align="center"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;">Safely back at the Hogsback, I had time to soak in some of the Beauty I often take for granted</span><br /></div><div align="left">How many times have you been on a mountain and just craved a nap? I placed my tools in a manner that would keep me from "rolling out of bed" and I dozed. The Alpine Nap, nothing like it. When the sun hit my face I woke up. I expected to see the masses heading up. I peaked down and saw no one, it was only Friday afterall. Even though the weather was perfect (cold and no wind) for climbing, I suspect, many people couldn't justify heading up the Trecherous Mt Hood. I also suspect that many climbers spouse's werent' going to let it happen. Sitting atop my very own Volcano, not another person in sight, I was overcome by feelings of greatfulness. To have good health, good weather, a mountain less than 2 hours from my bed and more than anything, a wife who lets Jess be Jess.<br /></div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiK8C6CV1R-84FNL1FfgdPOJeamr35pMI-ALn7gJWQwA1cfw5sc23syKKMfvgIrnGmxkLWJSdoAnQP_cz0pSzj-0DjwVWuTz3arhCWBD0ebp78-jAgTYFvbEsj8JdUfUiYoxnaT06WiCEU/s1600-h/IMG_0073.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299348791928979746" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 240px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 320px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiK8C6CV1R-84FNL1FfgdPOJeamr35pMI-ALn7gJWQwA1cfw5sc23syKKMfvgIrnGmxkLWJSdoAnQP_cz0pSzj-0DjwVWuTz3arhCWBD0ebp78-jAgTYFvbEsj8JdUfUiYoxnaT06WiCEU/s320/IMG_0073.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff0000;"> Illumination Rock, I wonder why they call it that?</span><br /><br /></div>Jess Palacioshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08882344570054957478noreply@blogger.com0