Mt Hood

Mt Hood 11,239'

S. Side Variation January 31, 2009
Chemeketan Rating S2

Hood Weather

Description The date on this climb is going to have to be flexible. In the Winter, conditions and weather dictate when you will climb. It will likely be a Saturday.

I will only take climbers who have been on a couple of Chemeketan trips w/ other leader references. Mt Hood in the Winter can be a Hike or a full value climb. We have to be prepared for both.

We will be climbing the S side, via the Pearly Gates or the Old Chute depending on conditions. We'll climb at a moderate pace w/ short breaks. Temps will range from cold and windy to warm and sunny. Dress in layers and bring a heavy jacket for breaks and the summit. Climbers must be in shape, don't show up thinking this will be your exercise kickoff for 2009.

There are many benefits to climbing Hood in the Winter. Mostly, I enjoy climbing in the daylight and there are less people. With these benefits, come obstacles. We need stable weather and stable conditions, thus we need a flexible date.

Driving Directions from Salem, take I-5N 35 miles to I-205. East on 205 12 miles to Estacada/Mt Hood exit #12. Right on Hwy-212 and drive 11 miles to Hwy-26 East. Follow Sandy/Mt Hood signs and continue on until you reach the Timberline access road on the left side of Hwy 26, a short distance past Government Camp. Go left up the hill for 6 miles to the Timberline Ski Resort. We'll meet near the Wy'East day lodge.

Drivers will need a winter snow park permit.

Expectations I expect for some of you, this may be your first glacier climb. I expect that you'll have broken in your boots and know how to put on your crampons efficiently. The longer this takes the colder you get. I expect that you'll remember how to pass through pickets, if you don't, let me know before hand so we can review it. Each climber will be expected to carry some of the group gear. Show up fed and hydrated, stay hydrated.

Route Discription We'll start at the Timberline Lodge, We'll head up to the top of the Palmer Chair lift, passing the Silcox Hut along the way. From here, we'll continue N to the Triangle moraine. On the way up to the Hogsback, we'll pass near the spectacular Steel cliffs and the Devils Kitchen Head Wall. At the Hogsback, we'll rest and rope up. From here, we'll assess our route and head up the final stretch to the Summit. We'll decend the climbing route, rest at the Hogsback and then desend to the Lodge before dark.
Highly subject to change due to temps and/or conditions. In light of recent accidents and the heat wave that hit the higher elevations, the conditions are unpredictable. We may begin climbing as early as 2:30. We will also keep a little bit faster pace to be at the summit around 8:30 am. Then we'll be back safely at the Hogsback by 9:15. However, if it does turn back into Winter, we'll keep to the agenda.
0430 am Meet at the Wy'east day lodge, sign in and disperse gear
0445 am Depart lodge. +/-6000'
0530 am Short Break at Silcox 7000'
0645 am Arrive at Palmer, short break, put on Crampons 8600'
0745 am Arrive at the Triangle Morain 9600'
0845 am Reach the Hogsback, eat, drink and rope up 10,600'
0900 am Depart for summit
1000 am Summit!
1015 am Desend
1100 am Arrive at Hogsback and continue decent.

Arrive at the lodge around 2 pm
Required Gear

Nutrition: Variety of snacks, 2-4 liters of water one lunch

Gear: Sit Pad/sleeping pad, boots, warm socks, crampons fitted to boots, ice axe, harness, 2 locker, 3 non-lockers, belay device, helmet, prussik's, raingear/wind gear, base layer, fleece, rain shell, wind pants, warm jacket, gaiters, gloves, hats (recommend balaclava), sunglasses/goggles, hiking poles.

Group Gear

2 60 meter ropes, 4 radios, 6 pickets, cell phone, 2 shovels, SPOT locating device.

Emergency Clackamas County Sherriff 503 655 8218.

SPOT Locator We will bring along a spot locating device that we will use to send signals to this Blog so your family can track your progress. In an emergency, we can send a 911 signal to authorities w/ our location.

Chemeketan Climbing Regulations

Climber agrees to pay for their own medical and/or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the even of accident or illness.

Guests must provide to the trip leader a signed release from liability and assumption of risk form, availble from the leader.

Leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb.


  1. Jess-
    Sweet pics... enjoyed the info. I will have to summit hood with you one of these days. Mountaineering is the next hobby I am interested in getting involved with.


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