Mt Shasta Hotlum-Wintun Ridge

Mt Shasta 14,162'

May 28-31 2009 Thursday pm-Sunday
Hotlum-Wintun Ridge
Chemeketan Rating S2
Leader: Jess Palacios

Here's the route on summit post
Mt Shasta Weather

Description Mt Shasta is a Volcano in the Cascades of Northern California outside of Shasta City. Shasta is the 2nd highest of the Chemeketan Award Peaks. We will climb via a less frequented, more scenic route. The slope angle will rarely be higher than 35 degrees. The Wintun Glacier has a heavily crevassed lower glacier where it falls into the Ash Creek Canyon. We will bypass this by going up the Hotlum-Wintun Ridge, then traverse to the Wintun Glacier.

Meeting Location and Driving Directions As usual, carpooling is encouraged. People should check w/ one another for carpooling options. I will be driving up Thursday afternoon and tent camp @ the Trail Head on Thursday night. We will meet at 12:00 noon on Friday @ the Brewer Creek TH. From salem, you can expect the drive to take approximately 6 hours. The extra evening will allow time for acclimatizing. Though it is recommended, people are not required to meet Thursday night.

Please email me your travel plans.

Summit passes are required for climbers above 10,000'. A pass costs $15 per person and is available at the TH.

Brewer Creek is reached by taking US 97 north from Weed. After 12 miles, turn right on Forest Service Road 19. Go more than 10 miles down this road, where you join with Forest Service Road 31 for a short period. Then, go right onto Road 42N02. After around 2.5 miles, turn left onto 42N10, take this to the TH at the end. We will camp here.

Route Discription From the TH, follow the trail which heads S across the lower flank of the mountain for about a 1/2 mile. The trail peters out, at this point, the route is obvious.

Standing at the treeline and looking up at Shasta, you will have a large moraine just up and to the right. Brewer Creek flows just to the left of this big moraine, but will likely be buried in snow. Hike up the drainage, keeping S of the big moraine. It gets steep between 8600' and 9600'. There are some benches w/ good campsites at 9600'. There's generally water by late spring.

The "Ridge" is more of a snowfield. This prominent snowfield drapes down the E side of Shasta and it separate the Hotlum and Wintun Glaciers. We'll see about 1% of the people as we would on the S side.

We will traverse from the ridge on to the Wintun Glacier near 12,000'. We'll then proceed up the glacier toward the summit block. We will pass the summit block on the S until we reach the W side. From here, we'll scramble to the summit.

12:00 pm Fri Meet @ the Brewer Creek TH +/- 7800'

1:00 pm Fri Depart TH

4:00 pm Fri arrive at basecamp +/-9600'

3:00 am Sat Wake up

3:45 am Sat Depart for summit

10:15 am Sat Summit!

10:45 am Sat Depart Summit

1:30 pm arrive at Camp

Sunday morning, we'll wake up and hike back to the cars and find some food and coffee. We'll be back to Salem around 500pm.

Required Equipment and clothing

Climbing Gear Harness, helmet, boots, gaiters, crampons (fitted to boots), ice axe, 2-3 lockers, 3 non-lockers, belay device prussik's. Hiking poles are optional
Clothing Gloves, spare gloves, hat, spare hat, insulating layers, warm jacker, rain gear and extra socks.
Camping 4 season tent recommended, warm sleeping bag (20 degree), sleeping pad, stove w/ fuel, water purifier (1 can be shared amongst 4 people), emergency blanked, water storage.
Nutrition Food for 3 days, capacity to carry 3 liters of water. Snacks are helpful, they can be stored in your pockets and eaten w/out having to stop the whole team. Summit treats! Ideally you would have a no-cook breakfast for summit day. Car snacks.
Team Gear 2 60 meter ropes, 6 pickets, 3 shovels, wands, SPOT locating device, 2 ice screws, 4 radios.
Other Camera, sun protection, chapstick, sunglasses, headlamp, bandana, snacks for car, lighter/matches, 1st Aid, medications, bathing stuff for the creek, black garbage bag for melting snow.

SPOT Locating Device We will bring along a locating device, your families can check this Blog and get an update of where you are. In an emergency, we can send a 911 rescue signal.

Emergency Mt Shasta Ranger Station 530 926 4511

Chemeketan Regulations
The climber agrees to pay for their own medical and or rescue expenses, whether or not authorized by the climber in the event of accident or illness.

Guests must provide a release from liability and assumption of risk, available from the Leader

The climb leader reserves the right to refuse to allow anyone to participate in the climb.

1 comment:

  1. Is it possible to climb this route without ropes and harnesses? I am looking to attempt it in early July with a few of my buddies. We are novices, but have climbed Rainer a few years back.